Thanks zach I really appreciate the quick response bud..great videos nice to see some in-depth videos with someone who actually explains thoroughly how to do things..awesome bud ..keep up the great work
Good man.... I greatly appreciate that..I was second guessing it..not now thanks..I have 2 175 hp ppumps anything I can do for preventive maintenance..besides delivery valves or springs.. it's an automatic so should I do Springs or delivery valves 3k or 4k..delivery valves?if so what size... maybe some heavy towing definitely a daily driver.. and is there anything with the 175 pumps that might have some troubles I hear something about plungers sticking.. I know it's a lot of questions..sorry thanks ..just really looking for reliability more than anything
Very thorough thank you. I have a 14 Ram 2500 with the Cummins and 68RFE. Since it was brand new it has always clunked in the driveline at low speed when letting off the throttle or getting back on it. If I do a transmission relearn on it, it goes away, but only for about 100 miles then it comes back. Any thoughts?
Yes, we were thinking the same thing... "We sure are getting good at transmissions... sucks that we're getting so much practice" lol Thanks for the comment and for watching!
What would I need to put a 68RFE behind a 4 cylinder Cummins? Also what transfer cases could I use behind it? Is a way to manually lock up the torque converter on a 68RFE like can be done on the 47-48 s (what gears would it work in if so?) Does the 68RFE circulate the fluid in park & warm up better in subzero cold than a 47-48 trans?
68RFE on a 5.9L? Pretty helpful, I will say. I'm trying to put together an ethanol inline 6 based entirely on the Cummins 5.9L block and wanted to add a built 68RFE to it. But I always wondered if the 68 would fit the 5.9L so like I said your video pretty much says it's possible.
Here in the midwest US rust is a way of life lol We were commenting on how little rust the truck has for it's age lol Thanks for watching and for the comment!
Interesting comment... you call us lazy or "unwilling to go the extra mile" and then post questions that can be answered in a web search... lazy or unwilling to go the extra mile? We are, by far, not lazy or unwilling to go the extra mile. As you know, being in the midwest, it's too cold and wet to do body work on a daily driver we just purchased. It's all good - thanks for watching!
Great videos guys...this question is alittle late..about the p-pump swap..did u guys have a set of injectors sent out to have pop off pressure set..I hear of some using stock 24v injectors working...what are your guys thoughts on this ..I just installed a set of brand new 75 HP bosch injectors in my 24v ..and wondering if u guys think they would be ok..thanks in advance
Frank Delvecchio Hi Frank, I’m currently using a set of injectors set to 24v pop pressure with no issues. In my opinion there’s no reason to change it. The pop pressure effectively delays the injection event by a small amount and you can compensate for that by setting the injection timing a little bit higher.
Get them repoped to 180 bar the p-pump spec (140 bar is 24v spec I believe.) You'll get a better injection that way. Which will give you a more complete combustion, more power, & better economy. People try to over compensate poor equipment with timing (Marine injectors for example) but injecting fuel out side of the piston bowl causes poor combustion efficiency, access combustion Heat without optimum pressure to motion transfer, and in extra cases can cause a piston top to be melted
Jesse Name ..thanks bud I appreciat it...can I get 24v stock injector re popped for a ppump swap or do they need to be a higher hp injector..thanks in advance
Frank Delvecchio I would not waste the time and money getting your injectors re-popped. It has absolutely nothing to do with spraying fuel inside the bowl or melting pistons, I suggest reading up on the topic a little more. If you do decide to get it changed, the pop off pressure is nowhere near what Jesse mentioned. I’m still running my 6x.013s at VP pop pressure with a ppump and making well over 600hp with no issues at all.
Turns out the problem is cured! Not sure if it was the pump or the filter so we're going with... YES it was both lol The stacked wrench extension was used because he couldn't get a socket on the bolt and I don't have 2 foot boxed end wrenches lol
I asked you about a 640 Ford tractor a few weeks ago. I took hood and fuel tank off and valve cover. Looks like it's full of water!! I have a picture but not sure how to send, but it's crusty!! Ruined? Can I get used parts I wonder? Let me know your thoughts when u get time!!!
