very different than the cummins diesel. you have to bump the starter to prime it. I wish you worked on older say 94 to 02 dodge trucks. your instructions for things are so clear and well put. enjoy the videos.
Hi thanks for info. May I ask how one bumps the starter to prime Cummins diesel engines? Does that mean to hit or bump starter solenoid with hammer ? Thanks
Diesel fuel filters have heating elements not to improve combustion by warming the fuel but to prevent the fuel turning waxy at low temperatures and clogging the filter. Most diesels do not push the fuel through the filter but suck it through causing a pressure drop in the filter which being the opposite of compressing the fuel causes a temperature drop hence the need for a heater. Also the tap on the lower art of the filter housing is there really to drain any water that has collected in the bottom of the filter housing, most diesels have a warning light on the dashboard if water is detected in the bowl as if left to go into the high pressure pump or injectors it will cause very expensive damage.
Hi great K Welton, great info; may I ask if water in fuel filter is result of cold temperature condensation. Also does the water drain by itself or is it forced out by lower part of filter housing with proper pressure? Thanks
If you look on the front of the bottom of the engine there's a metal line that goes nowhere you can attach a rubber hose to it to drain your fuel to a pan instead of making a mess all over the place before you open the drain
Great info Renato; may I ask if this metal line is the only output line on Ford 1999 Superduty Powerstroke 7.3 diesel engines? If so, then will diesel fuel just simply stream downward instead of splashing everywhere? Or maybe engines parts are in the way. Thanks
wow original fuel pump, that is amazing, my stepdads 2001 explorer sport trac, he replaced his fuel pump a few months ago, that did fix the hesitation and the long cranking time
@@acemoto2319 On those the whole gas tank needs dropped. It's not a diesel either but yeah it had the fuel filter replaced along with the pump. Depends on the vehicle, pickups are always a tank drop. Modern SUV's and Cars are commonly accessible from the inside.
@@RicardoPCGamer Thanks Ricardo for great info! Good to always learn about engines. I like what you wrote about changing fuel pump and filter helped with starts. I also noticed that having enough fuel also allows faster starts since maybe pressure helps the fuel pump. Priming (without cranking) twice also helped since diesel fuel is being prepared and glow plugs warmed. Also strong CCA battery helps ignite fuel. Continued blessings!
Make sure you know wether you have a separate or integrated cap before you order your filter. If you have an integrated cap it won’t work without getting one without a new cap.
Thanks for info Cobra; Do different diesel trucks have separated and integrated cap depending on year and/or diesel engine size? If so may I ask why the difference in caps? Thanks
Hi Darryl, great info; may I ask if you happen to know size and size of drain tubes needed? I have 1999 Ford 7.3 Superduty powerstroke. Thanks and God Bless.
330,000 miles @ 15,000 mile change interval is 22 fuel filters. Paying $50 per AC DELCO filter from parts store @ 22 filters is $1,100 before tax. Paying $6.50 per filter for RACOR OEM by the case @ 22 filters is $143 before tax. You tell me which way is the better choice ?
Hi BigShiggy, great info; we need you as our beloved accountant and financial manager :-) I just read your reply re. where to buy Filters. Thanks, God Bless!
Nice video. But just for future reference, when priming the fuel system the Fuel pump only stays on for about 20 seconds when the engine is not running
Why not use a half inch drive ratchet like it’s designed for to take the cap off? It’s a more common tool then a large filter wrench and it’s far easier to use for this application.
docindahouze LOL I've seen his videos on Arch Oil but haven't tried it yet, I'm not sure it would make much of difference because the engine oil and fuel systems have been maintained so well in this vehicle. Though I'm sure it would make a difference in something that has been neglected...
Sorry but I have issues here. I just changed my filter using this video, and it went smoothly so thank you so much for that. My issue is your crudded up filter. Mine has been in there 10 years (I know, but hey, I plead ignorance) anyway, mine didn't look anywhere at all as nasty as your old one, it's just yellow instead of white, so what gives? I wish I could put a picture on here. I think you have a lot more mileage on yours, but dang, after ten years I was expecting a dark black filter.
Hi James, interesting info; maybe his area has different diesel fuel with additives and his truck hauls under dirtier colder harsher conditions. How many miles do you have on your 7.3 diesel engine? God bless
@@acemoto2319 198361 is the miles, I mainly use it for hauling my boat to the lake these days. My biggest problem is keeping the damn thing running due to stuff going out on me, like the starter dying on me in kansas on a Sunday afternoon in a small town. Luckily I found a local gearhead worked on cars for extra cash. Had the new one delivered by an auto zone guy from another town. Expensive day. Right now it's battery problems.😮💨
@@jamesholleman2083 Okay thanks, i recently made my 7.3 1999 Ford diesel my main daily driver; so now my new 800 CCA Cold Cranking Amp batteries (3 of them) are always charged and starter and other parts get to work out everyday. If diesel can't be main daily driver, then batteries need to be on trickle maintenance charge or disconnected to avoid drain. Plus it helps to run engine at least once a week. If vehicle sits without charging, then batteries, alternator, starter will slowly die. Two months ago, I replaced original 1999 starter with new one. I took 3 hours with help of DIY mechanic to replace store bought starter. So labor was $60 plus $125 for starter. I may sell my other car since it's easier to maintain 1 vehicle that needs care. God bless... Learning as we go... :-)
@@jamesholleman2083 the fuel tank he’s getting fuel from, if you always get fuel at fuel stations that keep up on their maintenance then large particles are unlikely to accumulate. For farmers and such with their own fuel barrels contamination is far more common, it’s not that the nozzles at gas stations don’t get dirty but they are used far more frequently by thousands of vehicles so the particles are spread out in thousands of filters instead of just a few making detection less likely.
The external 50psi fuel pump fills the fuel bowl during the "wait to start" cycle. The 7.3 does have a HPOP feeding the two fuel ports inside the heads to the injectors that are the HEUI. When doing an oil change, most don't suction the black oil and refill with new oil from the HPOP and it dirtys their fresh oil change with black oil.
A long time going without a fuel filter change :) i changed it once a year on my mercedes 250, Of course our diesel in europe isn't as contaminated as it is in the US, however there is alot of additives in it for enviromental purposes wich is not good when it gets below -20c since it starts gelling by that point, there is good diesel fuel without additives but normal persons can't buy that since you need to be a company to buy it, like hauling freight or timber
Here in North America, the refineries (based on physical location) make 2 blends of diesel, there's a summer blend, and a winter blend. Obviously, the winter blend is for the northern climate when it gets cold. It's considered to be "Number 2 diesel" at the pumps, but in fact the winter blend is a mix of 40% No.2 and 60 percent No.1 Stove oil, which is thinner, drier, and has a lower pour point. Some refiners may blend kerosene (which is lighter and drier yet). As for gelling, ya, it still happens. Those who deal with it, and see their equipment running below -20C, keep de-gelling chemicals on hand. Best to add something when putting fuel in the tank, although there are some chemicals that claim to de-gel if you've waited past the point, lol. And as for contamination, there are sooooo many points along the chain of delivery where crap can get into both diesel and gas, with the actual vehicle itself being the worst point for dirt, crap unwittingly being introduced into the fuel system.
@@stanpatterson5033 Thanks for great info; May I ask if putting an additional fuel filter (strainer) at the fill cap location will help clear and strain diesel fuel upon filling up? Thanks
@@acemoto2319 Well, I'm not sure about a strainer in the filler cap. I have only seen anti-siphon devices put inside the fill neck. I'm confident, based upon my experiences with those things (not that fabulous), that anything finer than the anti-siphon devices, you would be experiencing backsplash, and painfully slow admittance when trying to fuel up. Most diesel fuel pumps have outboard filters on the discharge, and they are usually visible on the outside of the pump body, and they are usually caked with crap because they have never been changed since the place was built and the pump installed. If only these fuel distribution retailers or cardlocks paid a bit more attention to their equipment. Anyways, as far as filtering at the tanks, I don't believe that trying to filter as you fill is practical. Sure, it's desirable to filter it BEFORE it goes in, but unfortunately, it seems more practical to fuel quickly, and let your own infrastructure (like filters, separators, line heaters, etc.) do the dirty work after the fact that the fuel has been taken onboard and paid for. Best advice would be to use a rag to clean around the fuel cap prior to opening it, if caked in mud and stuff. A blast of a pressure washer would be good, if it won't admit water past the cap seal. Compressed air blast before opening the cap, might also dislodge unwanted dirt and debris.
@@stanpatterson5033 Great thanks Stan for excellent info on diesel filtration. It's great to learn how to change fuel filter as videos show. I like what you wrote about having different areas where diesel can be contaminated. Also on older vehicles, maybe rust inside fuel tank can also get through; so many say to keep tank 1/4 filled so tank sediments and rust are kept at bottom away from fuel pump; (I think fuel pumps are positioned higher than bottom floor of tank.) That anti-siphon gadget and other tips are helpful. Thanks again, continued blessings!
man that looks like alot of rust on the filter, but didnt they recently fill that old girl with gas? that would loosen up some serious crap from the tank and system!
Good observation. I have the same fuel gauge issue on my 1999 Ford 7.3. His low fuel light came on and then turned off and gauge jumped to full. My low fuel light doesn't work, so maybe fuse, other part, and/or fuel gauge needs diagnosis. Cheers
For most people yearly, but depending on use it can be every oil change or up to 30,000 miles. The dirtier the use the more often you will want to change, if your using it out in fields and putting fuel in with cans then more often is likely a good idea. If it’s a highway only truck then longer intervals won’t be an issue.
7.3 does not have HPFP it uses a HPOP ( high pressure oil pump) Also when you purge the air don't waste your time leaving the key on for 2 minutes, the pump only runs for 20-25 seconds
@@emperorpalpatine7134 Thanks for info Emperor.... yes I think the fuel heater allows diesel to stay in liquid form, especially at cold temperatures when diesel can gel up and be restricted by fuel filter. I'm guessing "Priming" to purge air, helps when engine hasn't been driven for awhile and/or with filter changes; and also may help warm up glow plugs. I noticed that if I prime twice (without cranking) then cranking will start faster. But when I don't prime, the cranking takes longer. I guess fuel needs to be pumped into system to displace air. Continued blessings!
$50 for one filter ? Brick and mortar parts stores are burning that wallet. Racor OEM made for Motorcraft were around $6.50 each years ago when I bought them by the case. Amazon has the Motorcraft for >$28 with Prime. Recently found International filters 3 for $21 on ebay. Shipping was extra.
Interesting info Chris! Are you saying that Ford original equipment manufacture OEM rubber seals are superior to generic aftermarket parts such as Racor filters ? Did you notice if seals are right side up or down? Thanks God Bless!
