Thank you for this tip. I woulda never thought of this. I will try this soon. I have many rolls of contact paper. Some prints I won't use for anything. Now I have a use for them. Many many thanks.
Just got a scroll saw, for valentine's day. ❤. I can't wait for warmer weather so I can be in the garage with it. Thank you for these tips before I begin.
Far better than using strips of blue painter's tape is to get a roll of clear contact paper which can be attached in one piece, negating the possibility of the gaps or overlays that you invariably get with painter's tape. Contact paper also has the advantage of being see-through so you can see the workpiece throughout the operation.
Blades matter, there lots of different ones. Smaller, larger, skip tooth, reverse, ultra reverse. Try different brands and different types and find what works for you and your style of cutting.
You can often find cheap machines locally through re-sell. My first one was of of Facebook for $60. I think Harbor Freight also has a cheap one but I’m not sure about the quality.
I know I'm replying to a 3 month old comment but I want to add that wd40 is like a jack of all trades, master of none product. While it *could* lube somthing, there are way better options to use. It also can be used as a solvent, but it's not as good as actual penetrative oil.
My saw was $500 brand new.. I think you can get it for around $400 now. When doing research on your saw.. make sure you're looking for a 20" bed. A lot of the cheaper saw lack in cut depth.
I use an old Richards Electromatic to modify flatbed dies and make stripping boards for die cutting paper cartons. If you're using mdf, it's really easy to remove the paper pattern in one piece with acetone. Then rub the piece down with the saw dust. The fine saw dust sticks to the adhesive and makes it easier to sand completely off if you have a piece large enough to sand after scrolling. And 3M Super 77 is the best spray adhesive I've found so far. Also I use a crap-ton of that Starbond.
WD40 may be a good medium to help the blade cut quickly, but I am afraid that it will stain and might soil the wood. I rub my blade with a normal candle; the wax makes it easy to cut through.
What's up with that helmet? And what's a good beginner scroll saw brand? I learned not long ago blue tape can also be very helpful for preventing splintering on thin material when cutting
I've got a video on the helmet (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xet8wzu4RIk.html) And the saw I'm using here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FZWU7Edu0N0.html) You can't go wrong with the Delta but if you're rich you can look into a Pegas. I'm looking to sell this one if you're interested 😈😈
Tip #1 ditch the pinned blades and get pinless. much easier to maneuver than pinned and necessary if you plan to do fretwork. thanks for the informative video!
This is fantastic, last night I used my scroll saw for the first time, im the second owner to have it, and it was pretty scary. Wish I had your video sooner😂😂
I have an old Craftsman scroll saw and I'm not sure if it's working or not. It cuts REALLY slow and I have to push the piece with so much pressure. I put a new blade in it and it's still not cutting near as fast as what you are showing here. What could be wrong? I'm relatively new to it, so I have really no idea how to set it up. I'm cutting 1/2" pine. Just the regular old dimensional lumber sold at my Home Depot. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I started with an old saw as well and they tend to get gunked up with sawdust since the saw creates such fine particles. I deep cleaned it several times but nothings beats a brand new machine and motor.
Make sure that the blade is installed with the teeth pointing down. Also, do you know how many teeth per inch are on the blades you tried? Try a blade with fewer teeth per inch. Keep in mind that the blade should do the work and you should not have to push the wood too hard. Also, check to see if your blade is square (at a right angle) to the table. If you want to try a new saw, I have had very good luck with a scroll saw I bought from Harbor Freight (about $100 on sale). Hope this helps.
I use packing tape on top of the pattern and then blue tape the pattern to the top. I don’t like breathing any aerosols especially since I am doing dozens of cuts and that stuff is way more expensive. The packing tape in essence lubricates the blade. Also, I can reuse the patterns multiple times. Get good at spiral blades because they rock on curvy intricate patterns
I was doing as you suggest, but on delicate fretwork the pattern could still shift. One nice alternative to aerosols (and much cheaper) is glue sticks to stick the paper to the blue tape. I'm with you: leave the expensive aerosol for someone with more money than brains. :)
What is the brand of spray glue you recommend to stack the wood? I'm going to give this a try. I've been using double backed tape and sometimes it pulls the wood up.
Great video - thanks! I print my patterns on full-page sticky labels to avoid the mess of adhesives. Then I stick them onto wood covered with blue tape,as you suggest. But I have my wood jumping all around and chattering when I turn it. Rats.
No to oil on the blade, in particular what I saw getting on the cutting table, all that oil will get on the wood and stain it. SInce I use clear shelf liner to adhere my pattern, that lubricates the blade more than enough. It also comes off easy when done. If you must lubricate your blade a bar of soap works. I clean then use a ceramic car spray for my table, this way my wood slides easily. Also get rid of those pinned blades, go pinless #5 Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse are easy to control, and you do not have to sand after cutting.
Instead of using spray glue on my projects before applying pattern, I use a Staples clear sheet backed by a yellowish peel-off backing. This prevents the pattern from moving an those muisence small pieces that want to fold up when scolling
No, the worst that could happen is mesothelioma, pulmunary edema, COPD, emphysema, and worst of the worst: untimely death. Driving fast with no seatbelt isn't cool; it's stupid. Same for scoffing at safety gear. Your words may be just fun and games to you, but what if they influence others to behave the same, and they get hurt? Would you even care? Don't be a fool when it comes to safety, kids. Having all the body parts you were born with, having your health, is something you should never take for granted.
@@coryingman LOL BHAHAHAHAHA its a scroll saw, i can put my finger on the blade and barely get a scratch, i hope it does influence others the modern age of bubbled wrapped wimps is annoying me lol. also hes not wearing a respirator just a face shield so that does not even count lol. Its a tiny lil scroll saw that i operated when i was like 8 years old and is about the most harmless tool their is XD Grow a pair sally my golly men aint men anymore, next you're gonna say im insane because i make flash powder!!!! XDD
What blade were you using? Was it a pinned end style blade? It looked very wide making it easier to make straight cuts. Thanks for the video; I enjoyed it.
I notice in quite a few videos people are using the pressure foot to help keep wood steady. The foot thing like on a. Sewing machine . Does it get in the way? I just got a Ryobi scroll saw yet to unbox. I’d feel too nervous of my fingers to move away that foot thing. Why are your take ?
Definitely respect the blade. It can cut you. I leave the foot on just as a reminder. The one time I got cut the blade just plowed through a weak section of redwood and got me, though it wasn’t bad, still don’t ever be lulled into complacency around ant blade.
Thanks for this wonderful video, although I have been using scroll saw for many years there is always something to learn. I keep this video and never loose it.
Great tips. Also if you putt packing tape on top of the paper pattern it will not pull up and move on you. It keeps it the pattern on the blue tape. Also lubricates the blade.
I've burned thru a few blades in my time. First saw was a 16" Crapsman single speed. It taught me to hold my work and how crappy pin style blades are. Next was a 21" Sakura (now PS Wood) that had five speeds and was belt driven. Used that saw for twenty years before retiring it after I wore out the bronze bushings that held the arms in place. Now have a 20" RBI Hawk. Have extensive (+100 hrs) time on Hegner's and the oval armed Delta. Here's what I can tell you... 1: Junk your pin-blade saw. Pin blades are much wider, generally much poorer in quality and cannot hold proper tension. 2: Buy multiple blade clamps. The lower clamp is the time eater. Having multiples means you can simply swap in a new blade for the one you are using that is old, tired, dull and maybe even bent. 3: While I have never tried to ascertain which musical pitch I tune my blades to, I tend to tension scroll saw blades tighter than my contemporaries. Personal preference which (I feel) allows tighter turns. 4: Use the smallest sized blade recommended for the type and thickness of material you're cutting. I generally use #5's with the reverse teeth under the cut. I buy them by the gross!
