What a fantastic teacher and very calming to watch. I see too many instructors breeze and rush through things. Once of the things I was always taught is what you said..... slow... step back when you need to..... then go back. Big applause! Thank you so very much for this great content!
Got to hand it to you Stumpy. Having watched so many tutorial videos, done by so many different people, on using a scroll saw I have got to say, without doubt, that you are the best teacher out of all of them. It's like learning from your Grandpa, you know, the old guy that you'd trust your life with, that magical wizard of wonderland type. It's as if you have all the time in the world, even for the smallest of things. Scrolling is a rush job and your delivery and approach to it is so calming. Keep it up Gramps !! (I wish you'd been my Grandpa xx
as someone who has recently restored an old grizzly scroll saw... and has absolutely no clue as to proper techniques I sincerely appreciate this Mike and James. Thank you looking forward to all the tutorials you guys are great!
Thank you so much Mike. I just got my first Scroll Saw. It’s used and a little rough looking but I’m cleaning it and hoping to get it going in a few days. It is a Craftsman 16” variable speed. I put some WD-40 on it and plugged it in and it didn’t work so I’m hoping after letting it sit overnight it will work in the morning. Your tips, ideas and easy way of talking is very calming and certainly easy to understand. Thank you very much for making these videos.
Mustache Mike, love your moniker. Excellent tutorial on scroll saw basics. You're an excellent teacher, you're thorough and you concentrate on the subject, rather than make extraneous comments about fan requests, etc. I look forward to watching a lot more of your videos.
Oh yeah, that's what I like. So much can be learned not only about cutting straight lines but also how to make an instructional video. Great job. Thanks!
As a proffessional marquetry maker I had to teach myself. I wish I'd watched your video. I love the way you try and descibe the action of the saw and the set up. Its one of those things where judgement plays a big role. I've had the same fretsaw for 25 years and I know it like the back of my hand. No other saw will do.. Practice makes perfect..
I usually watch this type of video at 1.75 speed, but in preparation for using my grandpa's old scroll saw for the first time tomorrow, I watched at regular speed. I like to this that is good preparation for the patience needed for this tool. Baby steps. Thanks for the tips and explaining the "dumb stuff" for beginners.
I'm new to scrolling but thinking about not running a pencil line inside the cut out bit makes me think about the days of using a jigsaw. I always used the original cut as a master to mark all other parts and then cut on the outside of the lines to keep them consistent. This way I found them to be equal. Just a thought !! Love your videos and boy, am I learning !!! Thanks.
Mike, great how to could you in future maybe add some mention of speed of the scrollsaw as it relates to type of blade and material thickness? Look forward to the rest of the videos.
I appreciate your clear instructions. I am brand new at scrolling and am doing practice cuts; curves, straight and sharp turn cuts. I am having trouble know how to push correctly with the line. Do you have any videos where the camera is behind you so as to see what you see? I'm wondering if it will help me to see how you are turning the wood. I'm not doing very well getting the rhythm. Thank you for your help.
Good point. I love doing things by hand, but glad I have the option of a scroll saw now. I can just see getting to the last few blocks and **scritch!** popping one of those separator pieces out with a chisel. Both techniques require patience, and a light touch.
I missed having a "dad" give me directions on how to work with wood. I am self taught (other than a woodshop class in Jr. High). Your dad did such a great job teaching here. Please keep these types of videos up (in addition to all your other stuff). And tell "dad" I appreciate it...thanks.
Hi Mike, welcome to New Zealand where I am. First off thanks for teaching in such a pleasant way. Your methods are correct of course but you make it sound easy. I would like to ask you a question if I may, I am getting a series of judders from the blade. It runs sweet for say 10mm but then knocks and surges. I am cutting 4.75mm MDF for a project I'm working on. I have tried more tension on the blade (its a new blade) but no difference. It was happening also on my last blade as well which was worn. I'm a joiner by trade (ex the UK) but no where near a professional on this machine which I admit is a cheaper one that I would like but as I'm on a pension I have to make do with what I have and happy to do so. (I'm 74 by the way and always appreciate help)
Hey James and Mike- Would you guys do a shop tour of e homemade shop? It really seems to be a lot of what I want out of mine but I just would love to see the layout and items included.
Tedium is right with the scroll saw. I began with a factory Dremel which is junk out of the box, but many modifications later it cuts well, but it's still tedious. Hint: Don't try scrolling when you're really tired. Everything begins to blur quickly.
Stumpy, you tightened the #4 skip tooth to a 5. Please tell me what the speed was on the DW788? Great teaching. Straight lines have been a nightmare for me. My neighbor keeps pushing me to make something instead of practicing. I'm going to try to make this bird feeder. 'thank you, Bill Shaw
Ok ive never scrolled before not very experienced with working with wood ..do i need to wea a dust ask?? Can that blade break?? So i need to start with strait lines.. thanks for any advice you can give..my scroll saw only came with one blade..i bought the scroll used..
That was fantastic, Mr. Mustache you are an excellent mentor / teacher. I have just gotten a cheap scroll saw am learning so this came at a good time. One thing is that all my blades are marked by teeth number per inch, not the number identifier, is there a way to correlate them?
Jim Dollens Cheep does not allways mean inferior work. Two of the project videos we have done lately were with 25 year old Craftsman 16 inch pin end blade saw. I would wager to say th a t there are still more of those saws out there than the DW 788 that I have.
Mustache Mike, This is Pharmacist Rick St Augustine Do you have training video where no “waste area” cuts? I wish I could send you my woodart layout so you could really understand my scroll saw question! Pharmacist Rick
good stuff!! I just have 1 question. How do you determine which blade to use. I bought quite an assortment only because I have no real idea which blade works best for an application. Spiral blades are also in the mix.
There is actually an episode of the old "Mustache Mike's Corner" series that covers scroll saw blade types: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-P_sKCP2Jm1Q.html
Benjamin DeBellis Look in either Stumpys youtube channel or the website archives for a blade tutorial I did a couple of years ago. also certain blade companies were more prone to use the tpi designation rather than numbered blades. I think I have a chart somewhere. I will take a look.
Thanks Mr Mo. I think Patience should also be added to your buzz word Practice. Are you doing some fancy video editing or do you have a foot operated start stop function on your saw? I'm thinking I need to 'Borrow' the wife's sewing machine peddle ;0
I don't understand what you mean by a #4 skip tooth.Lowes is all i have and they go by tpi. Im doing alot scroll work now cutting out maple leaves i pulled off my tree putting them on pumpkin orders,havinf a terrible time with my wood jumping up in the air,so bad its hurting my fingers,using 1/2" ply with a 15tpi.help please thanks and great video
The Stash may have different advise, but I find that the wood jumps around more when you are trying to make a turn that is too tight for the width of the blade, or if you stop forward cutting motion when you make a turn. As for blades- there is actually an episode of the old "Mustache Mike's Corner" series that covers scroll saw blade types: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-P_sKCP2Jm1Q.html
My guess would be two things. First being that scroll saws are designed for very curvy cutting, not long straight cuts. Secondly, blade drift is a constant fight with scroll saws and any type of fence would be a waste of time!
@@tomt9543 yes, I clamped a guide to see and it doesn’t really work, but this guy gets very straight lines anyway. Extra practice needed! My early mistake was trying to force things, with a more relaxed approached the saw better finds its own way!
@@jwmc41 slowing down makes a difference, but my 60 year old eyes with 43 years of welding abuse on them make it impossible to cut a straight line because I can’t SEE it! Ha! Going to look into (excuse the pun) one of those lighted magnifying things that mount to the workbench. Merry Christmas!
That's a good question. In fact, we just did a special Q & A episode that answered that :) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AnEKbiLwwcY.html
