7. Tesla Battery Calibration. Does it Work? 

Hi from France and please forgive my average english 🙂 Thank you for your "off-drama" approach about our Tesla batteries. We read so many bad things on the internet that it might be confusing or even putting us on panic! I just received my TM3 Long Range a few days ago: such an fun-to-drive car ! And I decided to follow what you advise : to stick with the owner's manual, which is : - Charging at home every night up to 90 % (maximum of the "daily" scale) at the minimum power available from the Tesla Wall Connector; - Not ending below 20 % too often; - SuperCharging as little as possible, only on long trips. And no other rule. Trusting the BMS. I don't wanna care about degradation, scanning data or analysing any other figures, I prefer to enjoy riding my new car!

Another great video Mike. I was still bugged by the sudden drop to below 350km rated range (SR+), so made a booking with Tesla Service. Service tech called to state hardware all seems in order and suggested battery could need a re-calibration. Here are the steps he told me to do. 1 - Disable any 3rd party app that may prevent the car from sleeping. 2 - Charge car to 80%, disconnect from charger and let sleep for 6 hours (I.e don’t open the car or touch your Tesla app) 3 - Run battery down to 30% and let sleep for 6 hours. 4 - Charge to 100%. I mentioned that I try to stick to the ABC rule, but he suggested this re-calibration activity is something to do once a month. Like you - didn't make any difference

Totally agree with this video. The bms does a great job so just let it do it’s thing.

What I have done to relieve “range anxiety” is when on a long trip, I always know where a SuperCharger is, my typical day, I set the display to %, keep the car plugged in, and set to 90%. I schedule my car to start charging after midnight. If I have a long trip planned, I set the schedule to charge to 100%, and finish charging by the time (or 15 minutes before) I plan to leave.

I appreciate you making this video and the others in the series. That was me who shared that info. Happy to say I have changed my display to battery percentage like you mentioned in this video. I love my Model 3 so I don’t worry about what the range shows. I’m just going to enjoy the car.

Energy app video ! Can’t wait ! 👍

Before a long road trip last year I charged up to 100% in my 2018 M3 LR and saw the estimated range at 296 miles. I drove over to the nearby Tesla Service Center and they told me about the battery calibration (drain below 10% and then charge back to 100%). While on the road trip I drained my battery down to 7% and then charged at the super charger back to 100%. The new estimated range now read 318 miles. I haven't tested what my range is now a year later but The battery calibration worked for me then.

Bottom line is, we are getting older everyday and so is your Tesla. The thing is as your remaining time decreases, so does the mileage range in your Tesla. Good news is money can buy you a new Tesla but no more time to live. Enjoy it. I love the acceleration and instant speed.

Absolutely spot on. Tried some of the same things and like you...nothing changed. I use the energy app now and just don't worry about it. There are too many chargers around to worry about it.

If you want to slow charge, you can also set the charge current to 5 or 6 amps when plugged into a L2 charger.

I always use percent vs miles. Miles is just an estimate that can be off due to far too many real world driving variables. Every couple months I'll charge to 100% just before a longer drive and at that point I'll check the mile estimate, I do see some degradation, but it's within what's predicted and I don't worry about it too much. I say don't charge past 80-90% unless you need to, but don't be afraid to charge to 100% just before starting a road trip, and most off all don't fret about this stuff too much and enjoy your car!

Thanx for not only this series, but for all your videos. I get rather tired of the fast-talking "experts" on some channels and appreciate your quiet, analytical approach to driving a Tesla.

Excellent end to an excellent series! I was told by a tech to let go bellow 20% and charge to full. I did that and nothing changed. The first few month of my Model 3 dual motor I would get 287 at 90%. Then it slowly went down to 270 at 90% and has stayed there for almost a year now. So I am not worried. I still get to where I need to go and absolutely love my car! Can’t wait for your energy video! Thanks again for your videos!

Thank you from the bottom of my heart for doing these videos. It has helped immensely. I also am no longer going to try to jump through hoops to try to “improve” range.

Really benefitted from this series. Thanks!

I would say re the L1 charging (120V), whereas it may be all you need if you don’t drive much, it is significantly less efficient to charge at such a low rate, due to the ratio of charging power vs power required to keep the car awake while charging. Essentially, taking many more hours to charge slowly means your car is awake all those hours, wasting electricity. Björn did a video on this a few months ago. Over time that waste of electricity does add up. So charging at 240V/30A is more efficient and still slow enough that you don’t need to worry about harming the battery. It’s really the DC fast charging that you want to keep to a minimum.

I love this. I’ve only had my Tesla for a few months but I think generally people stress too much. I find the percentage indicator much more realistic. Keep educating!

I think you got something confused here. The range wasn't there "all along" if you gain range back by calibrating the battery. The problem with an uncalibrated battery is that the charge between the individual cells are a bit uneven, and so the pack stops charging when those cells with the highest SoC top out, meaning an uncalibrated battery leaves room for more charge in the remaining cells. It is not just what the BMS reports.

I have watch all of your videos on batteries and found them to be very interesting and helpful in preparing for my tesla to arrive.

I’ve had a model 3 since 2018 and a Y since 2020 and I’ve learned one thing-the range means nothing. My 3 fell down to max 260 miles, estimated, within a few years. Thought it was a huge issue, and made sure the Y showed 330 when new. On road trips, they both have to charge at the same chargers, one stop on a 300 mile trip, whether it starts with a 260 or 330 estimation.

Good point. I never thought that I should calibrate my gas tank.

Thanks for your insights on this subject. Now I know these “calibration theories” are just that and not fact so I don,t need to waste my time. Also what you suggested makes sense, I.e. if you are having true charging issues Tesla will most likely do something to help fix the issue like putting a patch in the software updates.. I always enjoy your content- keep it coming

Some of the best educated series I have seen on youtube. Concise, informative and to the point. (Facts only no BS). Keep on doing the good work. Would tell you how it works in practical life when I get my delivery in July/August 2021.

Completely agree! As soon as I got my car I switched it to Percent. I could care less about the "rated" range as I drive on highways often at 75 mph, I'll never get my rated range so it's irrelevant. Pro tip for people with 120 and 240 charging. 240v is more efficient which means charging from 50% to 80% on 240v will actually be cheaper then on 120v!

Person experience: I've set the charge to 100% and when reaching ~98 or 99% I would see it drop back to 97 or 98 a couple times before raising back up to 100 at a normal rate. I figured that was it realizing it actually had more "room" for energy but still agree with your findings of basically don't worry about it.

I have a 2018 LR AWD Model 3 that I got back on Sept 27th, 2018. Right now, I'm about 200 miles shy of 20,000 miles on the car. Brand new, 100% charge would give me 310 miles. Now, I'm at the same max as you: 296 fully charged. I tried dropping the range down to near zero then fully charge to 100%, but like you, it didn't change my full range. I do have a Tesla wall charger at home which I use occasionally, but also charge at local ChargePoint chargers (if I'm out shopping). I think mentally I'm concerned because it's below that "magic" 300 mile number. But reading all the different tips and tricks out there on the forums to "reset" your range, like you did, seems to be too much to try to figure out. And none seem to work. Great video as always !!! Thanks for your research, and I think I'll also just set my battery range to % instead of miles, and just forget about it.

I really enjoyed this series. Thanks!

Great video series. I've had my model Y for two months. I plug it in whenever its in the garage and charge to 80. Lowest I've discharged is 35%.

You are absolutely right ! This home calibrations will not work . In my view the only thing we can do to stop the degradation is to not super charge it on regular basis. If battery is super charged then follow that up with slow charging at home . Besides there is no way we can stop the calendar ageing. My LFP battery has lost 3 miles (from 260-257 after 6000miles on clock )

I bought a model Y in 11/2020 ( it’s a 2021 model) . I never saw a range higher than 316 ( never 326). I recently charged it to 100% because of a road trip and I got to 306 miles. I’m not sweating it and I’m charging it up to 85-90% whenever I needed.

Thx for sharing. I also did this & nothing happened as well. I did call Tesla again & I was told to do 2 resets (one hard & soft) then charge the battery to 100% once it gets to 20%. Per “Tesla” I was told to also charge to 100% every 2-3 months. 🤦🏻‍♂️⚡️

I have a 2019 M3 SR. I opened a case to see if there was anything Tesla can do with my range. It was 240 when I first bought it now fluctuates between 224 and 226. They check remotely the battery and found no issue. But the service tech did mention that after driving a while the care takes your driving habits into account to give a better real world estimate on range. (don't know how true that is). But if true it might make sense. The range numbers Tesla post seem to be perfect world (test track constant speed). I have an ICE vehicle and I never get the MPG the manufacturer states. My minivan states 21-28 mpg but my average MPG actual is only 14-15. So I think my M3 is doing just fine with similar driving.

Thank you that was very useful I was thinking about charging to 100% to reset the BMS as I have not been over 80% for 8 months. I should of not second guessed the best BMS in the world, but you do wonder with all the theory's out there.

Calibration is mentioned in the service mode. It tells you the percentage your state of charge has to be below or above for re-calibration.

@3:47 I have SR+ 2021 and I'm seeing similar values. I believe the previous owner probably fast charged it to 100% daily and now I'm also at 217 estimated range from 263 EP miles range. I recently went on a 600 mile using only DC fast charge. The EP range went down from 235 to 217 (charging to 85 at one point and once had to charge to 95% because otherwise I wouldn't have made it to the next charger). I'll try the method to get battery down to 5% (probably with the battery health tester inside service menu when charge is below 20%) and slowly charge with 6A max for 3 days. But there was one video which I found helpful on extending the range. Its by video owner "This electric life" with video "Should I be charging my EV to 90% each day if I only drive a short distance?". I will follow the guidance of the 75-45% recharge range. My daily commute use up 18% so I would charge once every two commute days. This will according to his data collected extend the max life of my NCA battery pack (not sure if that means 2170 pack). Long Trip my tip while at a supercharger is to turn on the AC (if you're in the summer). Otherwise the first few minutes after the charge, your battery uses the max power for the heat pump and that drains power like no other. One experience with camp mode for 8 hours is that heat pump depletes power up to 10-15% (for me it was 17% in a 6 to 8 hour period). This means summer time, you will have to minus at least 10% range just to keep the AC going. The power usage for AC on the energy meter is always wrong because it doesn't calculate heat pump for some reason.

Gained 19 miles back after 3 resets. Used 2018 Model3 LR at 17K showed max charge at 275. Now 294. Charged to 100% from 5-8% 3x. I'll try again in a month or so. Til then, 20-80%.

IMHO, some people, have a hyper fixation/compulsion with continuously watching/stressing-out or debating the formulae surrounding the operation/display/estimation of a device's BMS. This situation, IMHO, is practically identical with watching/stressing-out/debating the BMS on our growing number of energy devices (eg. phones, gas tank gauges, refill level on propane tanks, temperature of freezers, etc) while in use/running/sleeping. Some people, who knows why, are just overly fixated by status displays in general (eg. gas, atomic clocks, batteries, Internet speed, install progress bars, does the inside refrigerator light really turn off when the door is closed, etc) while others can just periodically monitor and act accordingly with real-time status displays as needed. It takes some confidence that one will, most likely, not run out of a devices energy before one can normally replace that energy... That being said, when a device, like a EV or gas car, starts to indicate a degrade condition (eg. less MPG/MPGe than manufacturers expected range for the age of that device) that is abnormal, it maybe time to have that device's service organization evaluate and make a recommendation (eg. repair/replace/stay the course). As always, I appreciate your educational videos, researching the user/service manuals, debunking popular myths, and real-world testing of reseting the BMS on a Tesla. There are endless discussions/videos on resetting device's BMS everyday. As always, some of these "resets" work for some devices for some specific conditions, but not for others, and most "undocumented" tips are just folklore/myth or temporary solutions. The best advice, for my energy devices, is to follow the manufacturers recommendations, proactively take action when a device performs less than 1-2 std deviations from normal state, and worry less about micro-managing real-time status displays... most energy status displays are just the manufacturers best guess/estimation and some pad the expectation while others low ball it... go figure...

Was researching this during this week... perfect timing! Thanks!

New owner of a Certified Model Y LR 2020 direct from Tesla. My 100% charge gets 296-298. Did my first 1K miles road trip (90% Basic AP) and now at home with 234 miles on an 80% charge at home. I'm thinking of doing the single digit state of charge, wait over an hour, and then charge to 100% to see if it'll reach the estimated 326 miles. I originally own a 2013 Volt and the MY is my 1st EV. The Volt 40ish EV Miles reached my daily drives and I've never need to pass the 100 miles a day mark. 234 miles at 80% is enough to charge just twitch a week for daily usage. I'm excited to do the recalibration test 😅

i truly never change from percentage to range, i have the now discontinued base-BASE range model, and im always using my level 1 charger as i work from home and have no true obligations outside my home, so im confident in my charging habits, but i appreciate this video and channel, i thought might be nice to see any self-calibration techniques.

At the end of the day, who gives a flying f$&k about 10 or 20 miles of range. Charge your car and enjoy it. Digging to deep is just an absolute time suck. Life keeps ticking by. Stop wasting it. Great Vid!

Hi, excellent your videos. I've driven over 130,000 km with my Model 3. I always have battery percent, not mileage. I know my battery has degraded, no matter what the BMS says. If you want to know how much battery capacity is left, just do the following, as Tesla is providing all the real numbers to us (intentionally or not). 1) take not of battery percent at departure, for instance take a picture; let us say 89%. 2) Take note of battery left upon arrival, let's say 23%. Take note of the kWh used for the drive, let us say 42 kWh. This means 66% of your battery (89-23) has a capacity for 42kWh, therefore, 64 kWh at 100 percent of battery. This means full battery capacity is 64 instead of the original 75 kWh, a 15 percent degradation. Repeat this 8-10 times for drives at least 150 mi long. Then calculate the average battery capacity loss. In my case the battery in my Model 3 has a capacity for only 63 +/- 2 kWh, which means a 16 +/- 2 percent battery capacity loss. Obviously, this is double the 8 percent average degradation claimed by Tesla

Thank you, i always lower my amps to 20amp, and only charge to 80% I am like you I use my Model Y daily 15 to 20%.

Try charging 100 % once a month. Mine comes right back to est 315 and usually keep at 90% everyday

Great video, kind of what most of us look forward to watching that drive Teslas. I'm going to try the 120V L1 charging test in this video, down below 20% and charge to 50% to test my 2020 M3 AWD rated @ 322 but now at 294 @ 100% with only 3750 miles on it.

Using the level 1 charger gives you more conversion loss due to the voltage difference. I would recommend using the level 2 charger and limit the current within the car. This means less stress for the charger and for the wires running to the charger. In other words: Let the Level 2 charger work easy instead of the mc work hard. 😉

Just wanted to say thanks for this series; I’m a recent 2021 Model Y LR owner and haven’t had a chance to read the manual and these videos answered a lot of questions.

Range also depends on wind direction, number of times driver presses the breaks, the slope of the road.

always set your battery to % because it makes your life SO much less stressful all you have to worry about is making it back home. The trip estimate does a perfect job of that and if you don't think it does its cause you are driving too FAST

Also switching to percentage is just a bandaid. % is also handled by the BMS, therefore if the BMS assumption of maximum capacity is not accurate the displayed % will be inaccurate as well. This is harder to notice as there is no fixed EPA data applied to the BMS calculation.

I did exactly every you mentioned and without success as well. I have an AWD M3 2018 and currently getting 283 miles range at 100% SoC. Called Tesla on multiple occasions and every time I’m told that my battery is healthy and there’s nothing they can do for me.

AWD M3 with about 52,000 miles. My 90% charge maxes at ~250 advertised miles and full charge is ~283. Read some articles on TMC where the recommendation was to let the vehicle sit idle for 4-5 hours between uses and charging so the vehicle can go to sleep and the BMS take readings at various charge levels. Working from home for the past year has allowed me to try this but after 5 months have seen no change or recalibration/rebalance in estimated range.

This is because the battery does not need to be calibrated, it might need to be rebalanced. The BMS needs calibration and this does get fixed with one charge, it needs months. However your description of recalibration is wrong, or not detailed enough. You didnt want to "bore us with the details" but those details are what is needed to perform an accurate calibration. To calibrate the bms charge to 90-95% disable standby summon, cabin overheat and sentry for work and home. Drive the battery down to 10-20% over a few days (not all at once this is important) and let it sit at those low levels for several hours. Basically you are letting the car take measurements of battery capacity at different levels. Let’s say it takes 5% for you to get to work. That means that when you are at work and sentry, cabin overheat and Standby summon is disabled the car will go to sleep and take a reading at around 90% then you drive back home and you are at 85%. Do not charge. The car will take another reading or two at 80%-78%. Same thing will happen everyday. Until you get to 10-20% (you can go lower but always be ready for an emergency) again let it sit (unplugged) at those low levels for several hours so it can take another reading and then charge back up to 90% and repeat. Once a while you could charge to 100% so that the car can take a reading at 95% for the best results. Driving the battery down in one day and charging back up it does not let the car take readings at lower levels, not disabling stand by summon, cabin overheat and sentry wont let the voltage normalize. Therefore no readings can be taken. Your video lacks the details that are needed to perform an accurate recalibration and that is what the problem is with most of videos/post regarding this topic. I appreciate you trying to cover this as it is an important topic but without all the details it keeps spreading misinformation.

This is somehow my experience, too. Nevertheless I try to make a “larger” cycle from time to time. One premise is needed, though: the whole discussion is only valid for non-LFP batteries. LFP batteries need indeed to see 100% SoC frequently (and sometimes also below-10%, too).

I have a 2020 M3 SR+ rated at 250 miles. Teslafi reported new I only had about 247 miles. 7000 miles later I am down to around 225, about 10% loss. I am trying to let it drop to 20% and follow direction from your video and will let you know what happens. The energy app however says I am averaging more than 250 which is great news.

Seems like if you change your main bms board on an older tesla model s, this can help with recalibrating the board to the battery. I’m going to try this as there is no longer a function in toolbox3 to download bms backup for a main bms board swap.

After 20K miles, my 2019 Tesla model 3 shows estimated miles of 280 when fully charged. Last week I ran the battery down to 7% and charged to 100%. Nothing changed. I'm due for a service appointment next month. I plan to ask the technician whether the issue is battery degradation or incorrect battery calibration.

Got my model 3 long range (313 miles) in May 2019. Now, my max range is 270. That's a 43 mile degregation in less than 2 years. I dont know what to do.

If you use about 30% of your range daily I'd recommend a lower than 80% daily charge. I use about 20% daily and charge up to 50% every day. Charging to a lower SoC is a healhful habit that will extend your battery life.

Thanks to your videos my teenage son doesn't think of dad as a complete dumb dumb, as far as his Tesla goes :-)

When I started using the level 2 charger and charging to 100 percent regularly, my range has gone up from 307 miles to 315 miles of range. It is also getting warmer outside, so that's probably helping it, too. The updates are probably helping it as well. I think Tesla only told us to charge to eighty percenthat because they didn't have enough chargers on their charging network at the time. That rule made more chargers available. I say this because now Elon Musk now says you can charge to ninety percent. Now that the charging network has expanded, he's singing a different tune. My range has been going up when charging to 1 hundred percent with level 2 charging. I think it's a good idea to stay away from superchargers as much as possible because of the heat factor. Level two charging generates less heat. I charge once a day now that it's getting warmer, so my power usage is also more accurate to the EPA's estimated range. I charge it up all the way and use it right away when it's finished charging.

I did this test and it works with a level 2 charger. Using level 2 daily will keep milage to 310miles (in my experience - when I charge at work)

Nice set of videos Mike 😜👍

Very good review of info!! How about something on the 12V battery?

Great video - Thanks Mike :-) I drive MX100D 12/2017, and I had ir from new. I've got 116.000 km on it, and my Tessie App says 11,5% degradation and 86,1 kWh usable capacity. This week I'll go to Austria from Denmark (EU) - that's some 1450 km. and I'll fill up the battery to 100% I drive my car from 90% - 15% +/- several times a week, and I'm normally charging at home with a Tesla Destination Charger 230V/32A available (using 24A on 3 phases). I use the SuC only on my longer trips. I wanted to see if it was possible to "calibrate" my battery to maybe have a little more capacity, and did kinda the same as you describe in the video... And... I, as you, got absolutely NOTHING out of it! So, I've got the same experience. Nothing gained, nothing lost - still 86,1% usable capacity. Thanks for the super videos - Keep it up :-) Kasper, Denmark EU.

There is an inconsistency in the EPA rating system. For a 2021 M3 LR the rating milage of 353 mi equates to 210 W/mi which is a steady 51 mph using the V^3 power formula. The EPA rating is given as 250 W/mi also. Since it is not a linear curve for power needed vs. mph using a the speed as an average is not valid.

Well done - good topic; kind of what I suspected. After 2.5 years my M3P is showing range loss of 6% (TeslaFi app calc based on all my charges, mostly at home, 6kW).

I gained about 10 miles of range by charging to 100% after running it down to below 20%. Normally I keep it between 40-80%.

I've found Casey Kasem's relative. Voice of gold.

No one should ever use the battery display in miles and always use it in percent, because then it's like what we are all used to with an ICE vehicle's gas gauge. Nobody thinks about gas mileage with them, not even with a gas hog vehicle.

The model 3 Computer is Fibbing, On my Model S I ran only 2 Discharge to charge cycles 0%- 90% and the car was a beast after that, also my range went from 216mi to 255mi. you can't believe everything tesla says, Tesla has mixed info, many of its features and literature are rushed out and many times conflicting, look at the retaining clips...are they the best?...nope. if you want actual battery info go to Panasonic's website and look up the cell they make for Tesla, no different than any other Li-Ion cell when it comes to charging, what's good bad and Beneficial.

2019 SR+ 17,000 miles - 34.87mi(17.44%) loss - I charge level 2 almost daily or when I have sun(Solar Panels) to 90% - most days I fall into the category of people and drive 30-40 miles. Because I have the SR+, I treat the car as commute vehicle only. Longer trips I take the truck(19mph) or the Brides car(22mph). Disappointed with the loss but my biggest challenge is lack of charging in my area(Southeast Texas). I can go west or east but not north. My next Tesla will target the largest battery I can afford - knowing what I know now. There will be planned losses. Thanks for the videos confirming there isn't a magic pill. I wonder if you can turn the amperage down in the car down to the equivalent of a 110 charger to obtain "level 1" charging speeds or should I break out the portable charger. I could at least try and see if slow charging helps reset the BMS on my SR+?

I am just about to move from an outlander to a Model S. In the outlander there was a way to reset the battery management by disconnecting the 12v battery while the car was on in parking mode. I noticed a 10% increase after the reset. I think in a car like Model S would do this automatically. Another thing I have heard, that the 90&100kW batteries especially before 2017 degrading a lot faster, especially if they have been used heavily.

Interestingly, I saw a study that showed level 1 charging causes slightly more degradation than level 2.

With a few years on the video: How did your plan, not to "help" the BMS but just let it do its thing, pan out?

Is calibrating the same thing as equalizing? If no t can you equalize the battery…? I work with electric forklifts and the mechanics recommend equalizing the battery once a week.

Im at 61,139 miles at this moment buy my max Model Y charge is only 274 from the initial 310 I bought at. Or, almost 40 miles difference or a 12% loss since buying the car

I've "lost" about 25 miles on my 2019 Model 3 Long Range Dual Motor with 18,000 miles. I've heard that turning off sentry mode will improve the estimate. The theory is that the car knows that I will be using the sentry mode for 10 hours each day while it is parked at work, so it has "learned" to back that battery draw out of the estimated range. I've never tested the theory. But I will set the display back to battery percentage to get some peace of mind back.

What are your thoughts on putting your Tesla in chill mode vs standard mode to increase range and extend tire life?

"Plug in whenever possible"... Does setting the car to charge during late night low rate time affect the benefits of having the car plugged in "whenever possible"? In other words, are the benefits of having the car plugging in only happen at the times I've set my car to charge late at night? *great channel BTW!

I have a 2018 RWD LR and I don't even know what my max range is, lol. I've had my car on % display for years and I don't even worry about range unless I'm planning a long road trip and will absolutely need to stop at superchargers. Other than that, it's 70% for me every night. On cold New England days, I'll charge to about 50% at night and then I set the car to charge in the morning to 80% so the batteries are warm and I have regen braking on my morning commute.

Hi Mike. I don't know if you've ever noticed it, but after a charging session has been completed, the range in my battery keeps going up after being unplugged. Almost like a reverse vampire drain! I've seen as many as 13 kilometers of range being added before my eyes. I guess this is the algorithm for BMS re-calibrating the range.

Thanks, very useful analysis and comments. I like seeing the estimated range in kms when going on a trip but I can’t see why using a battery display in % couldn’t work for general daily driving. I’ll try it!

Discovered yesterday that, miraculously, my Model 3 has gained summon, auto parking and indicate only to overtake on a motorway. Didn't purchase them! Did I win something? Definitely not complaining though! Rats!...they took them back again...nice while it lasted!

i calibrated my battery after it lost about 12 miles total range in one week. a few days later it totally failed and now i need a 13,000 dollar battery . 2021 model 3 107k miles. just raising awareness

Great work! Thanks!

My buddy bought me a pack of Duracell AA batteries to stick in my glove box for back up. 😳😂🤷🏻‍♂️ .. Ps. I like using the % display, got to 4% on a trip to Denver, wife was freaking out! Priceless! 😂😂

After three battery drains to under 10%, I went from 275 miles at 100% to 295 miles. I have a 2020 Model 3 with about 30k miles, and have, in the past, charged to between 80-90% on a regular basis (at home on a 16 amp/240 level 2 charger), while very rarely discharging the battery below 40% or so. I suggest the reason this procedure didn't work for you is that due to a bit of battery degradation you were already at the theoretical mileage (in your case, 296 miles) maximum.

YES

Just because it didn't change anything for you at this time, under the conditions you operate the car, doesn't mean that it isn't a procedure that shouldn't be performed. When you know how bms systems work, you will understand why this should be done from time to time. However, you won't always see a change. The bms is somewhat analogous to an inventory system. When everything is working well you know exactly how much stock you have. Sometimes, however, you have to do physical inventory. Then you will know how good your stock system is and whether anything has slipped through the cracks. At that time you adjust your inventory and improve your systems and move on. The calibration of the bms is like a physical inventory. Sometimes everything is tiketyboo.. Other times not so much. Also, many bms systems only balance the cells when above 90%, but I can't tell you if the tesla system specifically balances above the 90% mark. There are a few different schemes for this.

You are very lucky, 296 miles range at full charge with 55K miles is well above the averages. seems that re-calibration might just work for those who have the low displayed range... One question, how often did you use the level1 charge? Thanks

Great video, as always. And a weird topic...

Level1 charge can only charge 3 miles per hour. So 1 re-calibration from 20% to 100% will take more than 3 days without driving it.

Thanks for the video. Yep, I have lost a fair bit of miles and tried re-calibrating and it hasn't worked either. It is not really a concern, but I would like to know I could do the long road trips I did when I first got the vehicle.

My LR MY is 7 months old with 11,300 miles. I have gone from “326” to 298 miles. Seems to me like a little more than I’d like to see but I just keep it on % and don’t worry about it.

I lost 40 miles of range . I have a 2019 sr+ my kw average is 219 kw miles. I calls tesla and they had me do a test for month . Nothing has changed. They told me there’s nothing they can do about it. I’m considering buying aero wheels because I have 19 in sport wheels . But I’m not sure if that’s really going to make a difference.

Nice job. Percentage is the way to go. Miles do not matter in and EV

SR+ here at 6 months old. When new 236 miles and now 222 miles after driving 7,000 miles. That's a loss of 6.65%, however most of the loss happened during the first 3 months and its only lost 1.2% in the last 3 months, according to TeslaFi. At this rate it will have lost 38% when I reach 100,000 miles (warranty end)... Hopefully, it will not keep up this rate of degradation... Time will tell...

These are great videos. I like how you avoid speculation. This comment however is requesting some speculation 😉: My M3 LR is brand new only 177 miles. It is a Made in China model and showed a range of 334 miles at its first ever 100% charge. I have a level 2 charger that enables me to charge with excess solar power from my roof PV panels. This means that it’s charging for periods of sunshine which can be short. I’m getting frequent periods of charging of 2-3 kWh here and there. I can’t find any detail in the manual about this sort of charging. I’d be interested to know if this sort of charging could cause battery degradation.

Mine dropped from 315 at delivery to 278. I have 22k miles and rarely supercharge. I’m concerned that is a big drop. I’ve only had the M3P for a year and half. 😡