Failure.. that shit is real. There are days where I feel confident in the water, and then there are days where the ocean straight up humbles me. Yesterday was one of the humbling days.
Doheny rocky bottom, a painful beginner lesson and my first stingray jab. Oh and the constant struggle of perfect pop up on land but never in the water, it seems like your feet disappear or one goes missing just when you finally catch a wave.
The cool think about surfing, in my opinion at least, is that even in failure it’s still wildly enjoyable. Even if I spend 2 hours in the water and don’t get a single wave, I still just really enjoy being out on the water, paddling, chatting with people in the lineup and just find the overall vibe super pleasant. It’s obviously even better if you’re catching waves and getting rides, but it’s one of the only sports where you can still have a blast even if you’re completely unsuccessful
I surf on the coast of WA all winter in a 5.54 wetsuit and never been cold once. I’m also 6’2” and 160 pounds so basically zero fat. Just takes the right gear and it won’t be cold 🤙🤙
i love your videos and your soothing voice ahah, but the car in the intro makes me feel like im watching an ad and not a surfing video. kinda out of context