Great videos, well presented. Refreshing to see someone act human and themselves. In my 30 years as a fabricator welder I'd never heard of dcen with 7018 for a 3g open root. From the images you have shown it does seem to wash in smother and more consistently. Will be trying it for sure. A test coupon in one thing but in the field when you have many meters to weld it's often hard to maintain a perfect prep gap and face. Can dcen handle gap inconsistencies better than dcep. Thanks for you're feed back in advance.
over here in Canada im in an aprenticeship for pressure vessel welding, this video was very helpful, will be watching mmore of your content thank you for making this video
I am so happy that I found your channel, I almost gone crazy in finding out how to weld an open root here in Sweden, as you say 6010 rod is almost impossible to find, and even the most common welding shops dont even know that they exists, and they cant even suggest a similar rod that can be bought in Sweden. There is also a different situation with 6013, they dont like to use it in the states while here in Sweden it is a common used rods. I am confused about the whole situation, and as a beginner it makes no sense. They even on some videos dont recommend 7018 as a root pass rod, just for the filler weld. It was a great releif when you said that you never seen or come across the 6010/6011 rods in Sweden, you made my life and my head less confused. Thanks!!!
I watched your video early and thought you were using 6010 vertical up with dc- , so I gave it a try , 3/8 plate 37 deg 3/32 land and face , Lincoln 6010 5p 1/8 " , Lincoln Ranger 8 set at about 80 amps DC - it actually went in a lot better than DC + . Not a professional welder just trying to master the 3g 6010 vertical up and down . Awesome video .
I’m practicing for a vertical up test for my oilfield job here, you’ve been a giant help!! If you’re ever out here near Pittsburgh, I’ll gladly get you on some 6010 pipe for all the help!!
@NSW I'm trying to get good enough to do stainless steel open root but stainless electrodes are very expensive, do you think the technique can be learnt using another type of rod? 6013? 7018 ? I'm hoping you can point me in the right direction. I tried 6013 but the trouble I have is 2 things 1 too cold I get holes, when I turn up the heat I keyhole the bevel. One thing I noticed when you weld I can see the pool right beneath your rod I dont get that the pool doest come up with me until I push the bevel
Great video man I’m practicing this test for a 3g and 4g 7018 open butt with back grind for a job In the ironworkers building a new structure for Mercedes
Really enjoying your video's! I am doing my butweld test in 14 days from now. In PE and PF. Your vids are really helpfull to me. Because i'm dutch we also dont use this 6010 Rod and use 7018 all the way.
Hahahaha potn star. Great video man, I'm in canada preparing for a weld test for a new job. Its 3g open root so I've been practicing 6010 and 7018 open roots just in case, 6010 is a very different rod, it takes time to adjust. It also leaves very tiny thin hard slag that is almost crystallized.
@@andrewkapteyn Im in ontario too. Right now I'm in a fab shop but the place I'm looking at makes armoured vehicles. I'm assuming it will all be 7018 but we will see haha.
Hej I just won't to say you are doing extremely good job with this videos. They are extremely good and practical for somebody who wants to learn welding procedures. As of 6010 electrodes i have work with it couple of years and in my experience they are much easier to work with than 7018. If you would like to do video with them i can send you one package. all the best , regards from Göteborg
Thanks alot. I be happy to make a 6010 movie before christmas if u can send me some sticks. I have never tried a 6010 so I have no idea what to expect. If u can send me your email I can send you my address. // Jonny
We did SMAW E7018 Open roots on window welds in boiler tube window welds. The Stick electrode allows for the widow to be cut back a little farther than with TIG and the circumferential weld was much easier. The OK48 2MM worked well. That coupled with a remote amperage control and they were pretty slick.
your welding skills are on point ! . do your machine have an arc force setting? if so what kind of arc force setting are you using with different joint configuration ?
Thank you! This machine has self adjusted arc force. I remembered that it was something that I didn't completely liked about it in the beginning but now I love that feature.
Great video your right you can't barely find any videos about welding full pen with 7018, here in Australia I took my 3e plate test and it had to be with e7016 just plain hydrogen control rod no back grind. To get the 3e you need to weld 3f multi pass 2f multi pass and 2g full pen no background and 4g full pen in under 3 hours which is not to bad but only if you have prepared well for it many people say its the hardest of all the weld tests anyway, Great Video you a gun welder.
Great video I totally agree how you do it I also use7018 dcen on a open root I'm from Australia I don't like the idea of having to around box's of different electrodes when you can use one standard electrode yes I've used 6010 and 6011 there's not much difference in speed on how fast it can be done it may look alittle bit more uniform but if it's enough to pass it's done it's job
That's crazy ! It's the exact opposite here in canada . We only use 6010 for roots with dcsp and then we use 7018 for our fill and cap . But these are csa standard
Great stuff. Those Arc shots looked very clear. Looks much softer than a 6010 (which makes sense of course). Watching some I was thinking there's no way he has any reinforcement on the backside but I was wrong for sure. How do you know your breaking down the edges? Order yourself some 6010 and give them a shot would make for an awesome video if you never ran them.
Hard to explain when I don't know english that good. You can se it keyhole just a little bit. Yeah perhaps I order some 6010 do they requires some special characteristics of the welding machine or can I run them from a regular inverter? Thanks for comment and watching.
@@NSW some smaller inverters struggle to run them. Esab has smaller machines that will do the job though. Then it's just dcep, amps and fine tune from there. It'll dig into it more and fill quicker than the 7018 I would guess. The keyhole will be more apparent too. When I get some time I'm going to try to 7018 open root.
Great work man, no idea how those roots come out so nice. It never looks like enough pen until you chip of the slag. Here in canada, i've also only ever used 7018 for roots
In the USA, the major welding codes, in general, will NOT allow any other electrode type, other than ceulostic [EXX10, EXX11] on the open root pass! Many welders, such as myself and yourself, have discovered this "buried arc-low current DC+ orDC-" procedure with EXX18, E309-16, EXX13 works very well for NON-CODE work,. Try a pass with AC and E7018AC!
E6013 is the American terminology for rutile based electrodes. Ah! But there are rutile based and rutile based. Most of the UK navy and a good deal of the merchant shipping built here (those were the days) have been built with 6013s. Mind you, these were rods like Vortic Marine and Vodex that gave genuine grade 3 properties. These were built with high grade rutile sand from Australia and were not cheap.
@@stephenburnison7272 Yes, Ironically, E6012 a better DC- sheet metal rod fits the bill for open root. Was used all over the world during WWII. Bohler Fox is a great E6013,Lincoln is the worst IMHO for open root.
Wow. DCEN in 4G gave good penetration but also seems nicely reinforced on the top of the plates. I'm going to try that. I've been using DCEP and getting that suckback even if the plates are fused. We're all in Australia learning 7016 for the 3E weld test as mentioned below. Do you run stringers for fill and cap or weaves? I love how you're not rushed. At times my keyholes probably resemble carbon arc gouging.
Haha carbon arc that was funny. Stringers or weaves depends on what you're wps allows. Stringers always works i all positions but sometimes weaves is faster. I think its good to learn both ways. Thanks for commenting and good luck with you're weld test. Kind regards Jonny , Luleå Sweden
I'm doing the 3e also at the moment. What polarity/ amps, gap and root face did you end up using for the 4G ? My exam is coming up in the next week and I still haven't decided which polarity I'm going to use. Did you pass it all on the first attempt?
@@rypod28 COVID has interrupted plans here so no test yet. I ran 85A Kobelco 7016 2.6mm DCEN for root with a 2.4mm root gap and 2mm root face on 10mm plate. 95A 2.6mm DCEP for hotpass. I used a weave. An older welder showed me how to really burn in the toes and shift quickly across to the opposite toe. This made a massive difference in how flat my welds were and how little grinding I needed to do between passes to remove any slag. 95A 2.6mm for final fill but be careful to leave enough room for the cap...ideally 1mm below the face of the plate. 105A 3.2 DCEP for final cap using a weave. Keeping the rod pretty vertical is critical and moving it like a metronome from toe-toe made big improvements for me. It reminded me of 3F in Mig in terms of speed. 3F in MMAW seems a much 'lazier' side to side movement but don't get ahead of the puddle. HTH and good luck
@@MattyK166 I've been using 75 amps and getting major suck back. I'll give 85 amps a go when I'm practicing tomorrow. It's doing my head in now as I've always usually done well on weld tests. Was your travel speed quite fast ? were you trying to jam that rod in there or was the heat enough to create the key hole? thanks
@@rypod28 is that 75A on DCEN or DCEP? Rod angle not much more than 10Degrees and my travel speed was pretty low. You should almost find you're getting little to no spatter and the flux cloud is above the plate and not below. IIRC on a 250mm plate I might have used x 4 rods...The usual x 3 tacks. I only burnt into where I'd feathered, not completely over the tack. I eventually managed to get no suckback and in most cases a nice bead of reinforced penno but it took a lot of coupons and chatting to better welders to get there. Use my amps only as food for thought. Machines, conditions, set up etc and techniques will be different. Prepping and tack welding up your coupons in a consistent fashion can also help remove a variable that can snag you. A buddy and I were working out how to achieve this weld and make it look perfect. He put me onto this video. In the end he also went back to DCEP and was still smashing out great 4G's. There's more than one way, but this technique of DCEN really helped me.
Good welding there, comment on metric here in usa metric materials (steel , lumber, tools, just about everything else) are like special order extra expensive stuff. Soon as metric comes to the usa market at competive price the switch will occur. economics.
Good vídeos, here in Spain weld with electrode on negative polarity is not possible for to do roots . 20 years ago it's was possible, it changed, for mi is better your way. thanks for your time.
I prefer E6011 to E6010, useful for fighting arc blow. I can also get many of them from China. I only weld on AC by the way. I also need AC for my twin carbon arc torch.
Great video. I miss the old 7018. I used to do a lot of pipe with ESAB 7016 open root and 7018 fill and cap. My current employer will only buy 6013. I found it difficult to adjust my style and to the amount of slag created. Difficult to root pipe with this rod. Do you guys use this 6013 rod in Scandinavia? Many thanks. Stevie My current employer will
Believe it or not 7018 open root has limited use in the US. For pipeline work typically its all downhill 6010 root with 7010 or 8010 rest of the way. But for in-service welding (welding on live gas or oil lines) low-hydrogen rods are required by code typically. And sometimes as a test you might be asked to do a branch test with 7018 from root to cap (typically this test is given typically with 6010/7010 or 8010). Weldtube and Schofield Welding have videos on a regular downhill branch test that explain it more in depth than I can here.
Interesting. What about asme ix boiler and pressure vessel code. Can you guys still use the 6010 downhill for pressure pipe and high pressure steam etc or just for low pressure pipelines? I guess if it passes the ndt or bend test and it's in the procedure then it's all good. Is a 7010 downhill root as strong as a 7018 uphill? I guess it is if its done right.
@@stephenburnison7272 I can't say I've ever seen a 7010 root but I'm sure someone somewhere requires it. ASME sec IX does allow downhill 6010 roots, curiously last I knew they had pre approved procedures that allowed downhill 6010 root and uphill 6010 the rest of the way, however this is likely outdated from before the introduction of 7018. I have taken downhill tests where the code we tested to was ASME (another curiosity because typically we test to API 1104) and it has passed with no issues both X-ray and destructive testing. Also when working on well pads, it still is all downhill 6010/8010 and a lot of the piping there holds as much as 5000 PSI with no issue. I wouldn't limit downhill to low pressure applications. But in a butt weld on pipe, a properly done downhill weld with complete penetration is as acceptable as a properly done uphill weld. To me, it's a matter of if you're welding with gravity or against it. I believe the people who request the use of 7018 in what's typically downhill codes intent for it to help limit hydrogen cracking on thicker sections of weld and more critical applications (such as in-service welding)
@@robmurphy806 thanks for taking the time to explain that. I would tend to agree on the basis of welds done properly to procedure etc. And good point on the hydrogen induced cracking. Cheers and good luck
En snabb fråga hära! jag vet att man ska "trycka" in pinnen så att man som bränner baksidan och lägger materialet på roten, MEN kan man inte köra lite taightare gap och sen ba höja ampen så att man bränner igenom endå? bra video och kull att höra mer om 7018 som du säger finns det inte mycket om dem
Du kan absolut köra tightare spalt finns många som kör med det. Men min erfarenhet är att roten ofta blir ojämn vid hög ström och liten spalt, detta blir det eftersom det blir svårt att se när det blir för mycket/lite genombränning. Har heller aldrig sett ett "proffs" köra med liten spalt. "Hur man vet när man ska trycka in pinnen?" Det är viktigt att svetsa där man vill att svetsen ska vara dvs djupt ner i fogen och inte halvvägs upp. Genom att variera båglängden så kan man styra värmen till en viss grad. Kort ljusbåge = kallare och vise versa. Exempel när jag svetsar och jag tycker att smältan gräver lite för mycket så minskar jag först ljusbågen om det inte fungerar så sänker jag amperen gradvis då varje sänkning köper lite extra tid även om strömen är fortfarande är för hög, gör sedan om proceduren tills jag prickar rätt ampere. Sen är det svårt att sätta ord på allt man lär sig att uttyda ur smältan när man svetsat mycket. Så man måste helt enkelt nöta på och svetsa mycket. Hoppas detta gav mer svar än frågetecken. Ha en bra dag. Mvh Jonny
@@NSW jeez! förväntade verkligen mig inte ett sådant bra och långt svar, uppskattas massor!! anledningen till att man kan trycka in pinnen är vell också för att man har en öppen root och en fri svets båge, för att om man skulle gjort samma på en vanlig T joint så skulle man bara få en "kall" svets pga kortare ljusbåge? tänker jag rätt eller är jag lite ute och cyklar hehe Jag vet att man SKA göra saker och ting men gillar att veta varför också, och du förklarade extremt bra med att säga att man her pinnen där man vill ha svetsen dvs där i roten! Grymt svar och keep welding :)
Du har helt rätt. Kör man ner pinnen i smältan på tex på en kälfog ser det ut att ha gått kallt trots att amperen är rätt. Kul med lite feedback på svenska så man klarar av att förklara lite bättre. Vart i Sverige bor du?
I’m getting a good bead front and back of the plate but when I cut in half along the weld there’s porosity in the middle of the weld no sign on the surface of the weld, rods are fresh and I’m not whipping the rod either, any ideas anyone? Thanks
I will keep trying, your videos have been a massive help, does running too cold cause the same problem? Travelling to fast ? Rod angle? Thanks from the UK
I am in romania.i am a electric welder in morani construction company. But sir i don't know the TIG welding .i want getting tig welding experience. Please make a video of TIG welding.how is usage and its benefits