Today we are having some fun welding I beams with Jet rods! Need to deposit a lot of metal? Jet rods! Need to do it fast? Jet rods! You like big sticks? Jet rods! Jet rods! JET RODS!
Hey guys I'm a kind of an old fashion guy.... But back on the day I had different runs with different welding procedures and types of welding and what I know is that the 7024 JetWeld is supposed to be used on flat position only maybe that is why you're experiencing problems on you're F-2 try out and one warning about this rod is that it could give you trouble with your movement for a long time it gets so hot that your body can not stand it. one word about your selection on the range it was fantastic for a 1/4" in thickness rod = 0.250 so that is the AMPS that you should run this thickness of rod or 250 AMPS + or - 5 to 10 AMPS but I remember this one time we was four running 7024 1/4" thick at 400 AMPS just to get the job done quicker and 4 welders setting A.R plate we all had our welding leads smoking, it was freezing and around 4AM. Completed the job and it lasted for about four years and after that we replace it again
I was on a job with an old man building spools for frac water tanks of of 6” and couldn’t figure out how he was kicking my ass. We were both using roll out wheels so I walked over to talk to him and figured out he was capping with 1/8” 7024 lmao. He schooled me that day.
I used to use those rods each and every day at the barge manufacturing facility i worked at. We used 7024 in 5/32 and 7024 in 3/16 big rods. Fun to weld with.
At my former fab shop we made pipe out of rolled steel sheets. We’d root it with E7018 and then backgouge it with grinders and then put a pass or two on it. Then we’d fill up the bevel on the outside with either a 1/8 or 5/32 7018 but for our Final cap pass, we’d use a 1/8 7024 on AC Power! It leaves a great looking weld!
Currently we are running the same rod and we are running at 290 in the flat on 1/4 plate on a lap joint. They are one awesome rod. This is at a tank farm in PA
ken caton same here 1971 buck an hour, 7024 3/16” on Cat skid plates. Every four or five rods we would throw the stinger in a bucket of water to cool it off.
Way back when I was a tank rat. PDM, CBI. We did tank bottoms with 7/32 jet. Called it two bucket work. You took two stingers and two buckets, filled one with water, sat on the other one. Leaned over as far as you could without tipping and lit up. By the time you got to the stub you were leaned all the way over the other way and the stinger was too hot to hold. Unhook it and dump the head in the water, hook up the spare stinger and run the next rod. Rinse and repeat.
In ur 2f position.. run a low arc force and run about 300 and hold ur rod straight up.. rather then 45 degree rod angle.. will make that valley go away.. learned that from old school tank builders.. welding tank bottoms.. they told me your not run 7018.. lol but hold the rod straight up gives u a better rod profile.. still good looking welds..
Thank you for this. Im a tank welder from AZ burn 7024 5/32 at 225 an for some reason get pin holes. Burn lincon rods. I get fustrated but this is helpful
Pin holes are definitely a pain in the ass. It happens farther back from your arc and it's hard to see, but you should be able to wiggle your rod around right when you see it to counter it.
I used iron powder (7024) rods quite a bit over 40 years ago (In the UK). You're spot on, they don't like even slight inclines, up or down. However, it could be the rods I suppose, but back in those days, it was normal for all stick welding in a fab shop environment to be AC. They always ran a lot smoother, and with less spatter than yours did. I'm not being critical, DC is definitely what happens now. I was thinking you might like to try the same experiment on AC to see what you think.
Hey bro, was wondering about arc force with iron rod. Do you keep it around 20% like running 7018 or? And is there a formula for heat settings with different size 7024 rod? We run exact same machine with 5/32 but only at about 180a. That puddle has a tendency to wanna roll ahead of ya with gradual downhill (5-10 degree slope)
I noticed the valley with the jet rods when I run them i got asked about a year ago why I was running two beads on a piece of flat bar we were running on the floor of a tank, I didn’t understand why they were asking me that because I didn’t, I realized later that it looked like it because of the valley that runs in the middle, I’ve tried to fix it with rod angle but always get the same results. So I always figure that was the way the profile was supposed to be
In the uk most people just call them iron powder rods that can be 3 foot long and 1/2 inches and they where often used in shipyard for welding bulkhead stiffeners
Turn the arc force down it runs smoother higher arc force will make you a BB king lol plus the slag will peal of by it's self, we ran 1/4 jet, love the video keep up the good work
Eric Nelson I’d agree, the arc shots I’m seeing look pretty choppy on the puddle, I was running old Lincoln’s with an “arc force “ knob before it was arc force ! You can get 7024 to weld w/0 any splatter and peel like none other! Easy clean up which makes you faster !
I used this rod mud tanks.If you run this right your slag will fall off as the weld cools off. You can also make mess with this rod.If have the wrong rod angle and heat too low.
Curious how steep you can go with this rodtype. I see a bit of " crowning" in the beads(due to low rod angle). I use thick covered rutile E42 RR 12 (E6013/E7014)rods. You can go much steeper( 60-70 degrees) but you have to increase travel speed to stay ahead of the puddle (no undercut and quite high amperage required)
I built tanks for 13 years before I went to school for pipe welding ..if u reverse the polarities on the machine it will burn smoother. If I never weld another one of those rides again I'll die happy.
Whats the difference between a jet rod vs a lincolin or fleetweld rod???? Can you put down metal faster or have a better bead appearence???are the rods bigger than lets say a lincoln 1/8 rod
He either free-handed, or supported with his lap, but never leaned on the metal for support... is this because of the high amps required for the size of the weld/rod?
Maybe I'm crazy but I saw 2- 1F welds. Granted the steel was straight up and down but you were welding the vertical to the flat. So 2 of the same welds.
Use that rod at an shipyard to weld Pad I on to hook the cranes and come alongs to pull the parts for tacking. Found out cant stay in long place or run to slow or ruin the metal quickly
I always watch your video's and have got some awesome tips from them. I think why their is a valley on the 1F position is that we always weld half of the bead which prevents valley craters and undercut but as this is mostly a drag rod metal gets disspoisel and can't fuse but in the 2F position gravity pulls the weld bead down as we know gravity is a big role in all positions espicaily on pipe welding. I could be wrong just my point of view. Keep it burning
Nice job 👍. Just a suggestion, when and IF u can put a fan pointed at you and your welding so the harmful smoke doesn’t get into your lungs and the fan will blow away the smoke at your welding spot giving your viewers a better look at your welding.
I'm currently having flashbacks to that guy in the hallway with the camera shot hat from Fifth Element. Kinda waiting for him to say "Gimme the Casssssh!"
Halmar sou seu fã cara realmente vc é ferramenta meu broder porém gostaria que vc reproduzisse vídeos em português pra nois soldadores aqui do Brasil vlw um abraço
