8 Stack Mechanical Fuel Injection 101 (Part 1) Butterfly Adjustments 

Thanks l wondered if Hillborn was still around just turned 70😊 have a 80 cu in Magnuson blower for my kaw 900 built ln 1977 god speed leard a lot stay cool

Just getting started with an 8 stack Hilborn. Really appreciate the video.

Thank you for taking the time and putting the effort in to make these videos.

Thank you for making this. I have a big block chev unit, some printed material on setup, but your video is awesome

This is pure gold! Thank you for taking the time to make those printouts and explaining it so perfectly. Thank you!

Thanks for a wonderful learning experience. Now I just have to find a cheap 8 barrel fuel injection system.... BTW, they make adapters you can slide on your calipers to measure center to center on holes....

Great video!!! looking forward for the rest of the series. Thanks

Perfect video, use of calculation board the best. I remember early 70,s the throttle plate sticking issue. Great lesson, thank you.

Been looking for this kind of instructions for yrs. Needed a place to start for our sbc 2wd pulling truck. This knowledge is hard to find now. Thxs for sharing.

Very nice, they have a great visual impact. I made a crossover manifold with eight Honda motorbike carbs fitted, and all attached to a Studebaker 289 V8. That was hard to synchronize, as each carb had it's own adjusting screw it took me six months to find a method that worked, but when I got it right it was so sweet.

Awesome and informational video 😎👍🏼

Great video 👍

😶😚Looking for word Starvin Marvin Thank you

Excellent little model to explain to us NUMBNUTS how important that distance is for the master and slave to open in unison. And the rubber band method answered my concerns about things shifting whilst tightening the slave (HA - not the "...secondary..."). CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.

So cool!!! Thanks for the deep dive!

THIS IS AWESOME!!! I want hilbourne fuelie for my Nailhead..... good luck finding a set.... but dreams can happen! you show up with mechanical fuelies your making a statement!!!!!

My friend Bob had a 34 Ford P/U with a Hillborn unit on a 312 Y block Ford in the B/A class. He also maintained a second unit on a C/G Ford coupe with a Y-block. Instead of a feeler gauge, he would cut strips of newspaper (about an inch wide) and use it as a feeler gauge. He preferred the newspaper over a feeler gauge due to it being compliant. Also, I believe Racing Parts and Machine Co. in Baltimore used this as well. Hope this is helpful to some.

Loved it I'm a retired auto tech

Thank you soooo much!! I'm setting up a early Hilborn on a sbc..I will buy you some beer, for sure!!

Great video ,nice step by step.Looking forward to more!

Thank you so much, great video, will use it for my BBC Hilborn system !

You are great, the way you explain it all so very clearly. I just bought a Hillborn setup for my sbc🙂. I have a FED nostalgia car its groining on. I have to replace all the hoses and go thru it, your spots will be very helpful. Thanks for your help, Vince

Thank you ever so much ! I really enjoy your teaching on this injection , I owe you a beer!

Randy, these videos, have helped me, to understand, how our Old School Enderle FI unit, will function. We ar installing, it on a 406 sbc, on our 67 Nova. Thanks BJ

Another item of interest is that by adjusting the angle of the throttle cable input to the arm on the master butterfly set, you can have the throttle open more gradually (per inch of pedal travel) at the beginning, middle, or end of the travel. If the throttle attachment arm is at exactly 90 degrees to the throttle cable movement when at idle, then the throttle movement will be slowest per inch of initial pedal travel at the beginning of the throttle movement, and more degrees of opening per unit of travel afterwards. If the throttle-link arm that attaches to the throttle cable is facing away from the throttle cable so there is a very low number of degrees of difference of angle between the throttle cable's plane of motion and the link arm's angle compared to the direction of movement, you will get a quicker-opening throttle right off idle. In fact, by tailoring the throttle link arm's length you can decided on how much overall throttle pedal travel you have to work with, too. If you like a longer pedal stroke, you can use a longer arm. If you like more of an on-off switch, you can use a very short arm. The throttle should move the most slowly relative to the throttle pedal motion in the parts of the throttle position that seem the most responsive. If just cracking open the throttle results in the car trying to leap forth or immediately break traction, then maybe less throttle travel per unit of pedal motion for the initial throttle opening. If the engine doesn't seem to feel much difference between 3/4 and full throttle, you may want to have the throttle moving more quickly in those last 22.5 degrees relative to the motion of the throttle cable/pedal. This can be very finely tuned by having one throttle cable from the pedal moving a mechanism that has somewhat of a cam-shaped ramp on the mechanism to pull a secondary cable to activate the throttle blades, like old Nautilus machines had. In short, if the engine experiences huge differences in behavior per degree of throttle opening at a certain throttle position, then that is one area you can manipulate things to make the same amount of pedal travel result in less change in butterfly angle, and there are a variety of ways to make what amounts to a mechanical "drive by wire" kind of feel.

Excellent. I have an old enderle system with an fairly small bore. Now i want to bust it out and use it. 20 years ago i bought an kinsler methanol barrel valve for it. Now i just need to build an old motor for it.

Have a big block Chevy with Edelbrock cross ram and making sure throttle position on both carbs is not easy. Hopefully it will perform okay on Dyno. Probably lose a bit of power compared to a new air gap but it looks and sounds killer.

Thank you for doing this. I run a Kinsler FI and there is very little good information.

Thanks for putting out great info on the Crower injector. I have one just like it. I'm building a SBC 377 and would like to know if you could give some cam specs for drag racing motor like this. Thanks Dan

Thanks for this - I have just purchased a historic CLEV powered sport sedan that once had 8-stack mech injection, but now has a Holley fitted - I intend to locate a suitable 8-stack - HA - hopefully it makes as much power with the mech 8-stack as the Holley. I have always viewed mech injection as a sort of 'black art' - HA - now is the time to learn that 'black art' for me. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.

I have been watching your videos I'm nearing completion of my grandfather's 55 Chevy gasser " orange peel " back in the 70s they ran this injection system. I currently have a 383 stroker motor built with this on there along with everything I needed from alky digger. would love to be able to talk to you about questions I have.

Great show thanks. Question,if I go lean change injectors or the bypass valve at the pump

I have a general question about the constant flow fuel injection. If I understand it correctly, fuel shoots to all 8 injectors at the same time. What happens to the fuel in a cylinder with the vav.e closed? Does the fuel puddle up on the intake valve until it opens? May be less relevant on a race care that runs at full throttle but how does the early gm system compensate since it has a constant feed into the octopus feeding a 8 injectors ?

Do they make an MFI that can utilize a basic throttle body similar to a traditional carburetor so all you need to adjust is the fuel curve? It seems it would be much easier to tune. It would also allow the use of a favorite intake manifold if injectors can be placed into the individual ports as needed. I want the benefit of port fuel injection but with a mechanical set-up like the MFI. Thank you for any info you may have on this.

Pretty sure that is a Magnesium unit. I saw a Crower unit yesterday which WAS aluminum and was the dull silver color.

When are you going to post the rest of the series

The trouble with a feeler gauge, is that the " feel" is subjective. One guy says oooh that feels just right. Another says i dont know, feels a little loose for me. If ya know, ya know.

Angle finder would simplify adjustments I think.

Correct me if I am missing something - but using a wide feeler gauge on a curved surface is surely not 100.0% accurate? Even if the feeler gauge bends to somewhat conform to the round shape - it will still offer some resistance and not be 100.0% accurate. Are there any feeler gauges for use on round areas? Or am I being a bit to 'exact', and this process of setting the leading edge of the butterfly with a feeler gauge is not an absolute critical process? Thanks.