Just finished replacing my neighbor's fuel pump relay on his 2006 Ford F350 from instructions in your video. Many thanks for posting this and leaving it up as it has been awhile since you first put it on RU-vid. Could you share what resource you used (or recommend) in locating the relay and how you identified it? There were a few other relays on the board I would have liked to identify. All in all, you saved us a lot of grief, and your well thought out video was easy to understand. Thank you!!!
Glad I could help. The relays on my board were all the same. The link is in the video description but here it is again amzn.to/3N2dHg5 It is a common OMRON 12v relay. Cheers!
Watched all of your videos over 2 days. Very informative, as building a front engine dragster. 399ci Ford cleveland , the fuel system is very similar to a Rons flying toilet. The fuel system for methanol naturally aspirated was purchased second hand and sent direct to my engine builder. There will be no afr or lambs for tuning just a heat gun on the zoomies. Fuel pump direct of the cam with offset drive for the mag. Approx 15 to 1 compression.
@@michaeldonohue9760 thanks, i am glad. I struggle with how much detail to discuss sometimes. My inspiration is watching the hacks give out bogus info just to do a vid. Cheers
When i Google 9.9 Evinrude electronic ignition the online sources only refer too points!! I obviously don't have points. Im getting occasional spark then none. i need to know how to troubleshoot each component before throwing money at it.
I personally have not, however, when I was a teen, there was a guy that had the exact same Crower unit on a 327 in a 1967 Camaro. He ran his on gasoline and drove it everywhere around town. He could actually pull the front tires a few inches. He revved the snot out of it. I rode in it a couple times and it was not a "comfortable" ride... I wouldn't recommend doing it on your daily driver as it doesn't have very good mid throttle control....Cruising idle or WOT mostly. Good luck and have a blast! Cheers Ps. If you want to run one on the street consider having it converted to efi. Will still look awesome but be very drivable.
You are the first one to breakdown and actually show the principal of how the barrel valve works. Excellent review of the entire mechanical FI. Unfortunately, it looks like FIE has removed any link to their calculators! :Edit . . . the calculators works now.
Hi Chip. Thanks for the comment. I just tried the link and it seemed to work. Will mess with it in the morning. Don’t forget, you need to register to get access. Its no threat to do so. Lmk if you still have problems. Randy
@@digitaloverdrivesystems Thanks for your reply. I tried it today on my phone and the calculator link was back and worked fine. Now I'm on my computer and it works as well. Very strange! The other day I drilled around for 20-30 minutes and couldn't find any calc link.
I wanted to thank you Randy for this video series it was a great refresher course, as I played around with this stuff a little bit about 35 years ago and still have a big interest in it
Excellent video and thanks for sharing your work. This is my first experience with a non-serviceable relay of this sort and you've answered many of my questions on how to approach it. To me, it seems the worst part is putting the fuses back in place...lol
creating a scratch is NOT like the effect of weathering which causes sub-surface crazing that causes haze. Take real-world weathered lexan and fix that and you will know something! Thanks for trying. Ok it seems your treatment worked. I use an orbital sander with a microfiber cloth over the sanding pad.
@@digitaloverdrivesystems Thanks for the comment. This is pretty sad because i've only had the windows in place a little over one year. Sun seems to destroy them pretty quickly. I think I'll never purchase polycarbonate again.. Acrylic seems much preferable.
Great information on how to check this fuse panel. When I opened my 2002 Ford Excursion fuse panel (easy enough thanks to you), the relay appeared to be in pristine condition. So I am moving on to testing the fuel pump. I can rebuild anything, but electrical stuff is not my forte. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO! I know it will provide great insight to many.
When you showed the idle hole , how is fuel getting past the barrel for your idle? I am assuming the diameter of the round hole is your idle flow and most is going through your bypass back to the tank . But how is the idle fuel getting to the injector? I have an enderle 4 port I'm setting up for street use..... Love your videos
The ramp on the spool feeding the nozzles is never totally closed off like the idle bypass is. The “leak down “ rate you set allows for that % of fuel to continue flowing to the nozzles at idle. Go watch part2 of my series.
Yes I did say that the heavy ones came installed on it if you watched the whole thing. Just trying to show how it all works for the guys unfamiliar with the distributor thats all..
Hello, I purchased a stack fuel injector for my front engine dragster, man i wouldn't have ever been able to put this thing together without this series, great job and thanks.
@DigitalOverdrive: Will a CJB from a 2003 Expedition 4X2 (w/out factory alarm) work in a 2004 Expedition 4X4 (w/factory alarm)? I have a new CJB from my son's totaled 2003 Expedition that I would like to swap in my 2004 Expedition, cause the fuel pump relay switch is burned up. I will set them side by side on my work table and compare them front and back to see if they are the same. If they look the same I will install the new CJB from the 03 Expedition on my 04 Expedition, hoping that it works. Please reply soon. Thanks.
@@digitaloverdrivesystems So I carefully compared both Central Junction Boxes yesterday and they are identical to each other. All the plug-ins are exactly the same, the needle like connections are the same and both boxes are identical, there is no noticeable difference between them. The only difference is in the Ford identification numbers, where the 2003 is: 3L7Z-14A068-AB and the 2004 is: 4L1Z-14A068-AB. So today I will try to make the swap and hopefully it'll be successful, otherwise it'll cost me a lot more, and my 2004 Expedition has 408,775 miles.
@@digitaloverdrivesystems So I swapped the CJB into my 2004 Expedition that I removed from the totaled 2003 Expedition, cause it was only used for 2 months after it was purchased new from the local Ford dealer for over $400 dollars. The swap was a total success, thank God. I thought about sending out the bad CJB to get it overhauled but I saved from having to do that with this swap. Thanks for posting your video in RU-vid and your replies are greatly appreciated.
Before even removing that junction box from the truck you can diagnose whether its the pump or that relay just by removing the 4 pin plug on the outside of the junction box. There is a green/yellow wire, if you inject 12 volts to the wire (not the board pin) this goes directly to the pump, if you hear the pump its good. If you take a voltmeter to the board pin that the green/yellow wire connects to (i believe the lower left corner of the 4 pins) you should see 12volts there when you turn the key. If it wont read 12 volts with no load (cause you disconnected the pump wire) then you know that relay is bad without even taking it all apart... but you should really put a load on it to make sure its bad before taking it all apart. Im about to do this repair myself on a 2003 F150. the soldering part is the least of my worries as i work in electronics.
Hey man I read your post very closely, and I'm about to do this as well can I use a charged car battery to "create" the load also do you have a video on the subject?
Makes me wonder if running alky is really worth it. I would think the sealing edges of the vanes have a small radius to avoid dragging the corners on the sealing ring? Could you make a sanding fixture with a small radius sanded in it then double back tape varying grits of abrasive paper to form a radiused edge? I rebuilt an old GM power steering pump and noticed that feature on the vanes. May even improve the efficiency of the pump? Also I gotta wonder if that gunk is in the filter.
This is the exact information I've been looking for, for a alky sprint car engine. This engine is for a vintage sprint car so it's not any big HP. #%) cu. in. stock heads but a 500 lift cam. on alky. Does it make a difference on what size nozzles to use., and what size do you recommend. Great video, and thank you.
I discuss nozzle sizing in a couple segments in my fuel injection series. I suggest that you watch them in order. You will know the tricks to selecting the right nozzles. Cheers
A wondering if your filter ought to be changed to being installed before the pump given that it’s recirculating. Lots of line to pick up junk t jam the vanes.
Thanks for a wonderful learning experience. Now I just have to find a cheap 8 barrel fuel injection system.... BTW, they make adapters you can slide on your calipers to measure center to center on holes....
I’m glad it helped you. This stuff can get expensive quickly though. A good pump alone is around $600. Nozzles are pricey too if you have to buy new. Best of luck and cheers from Florida’s space coast!!!!
60RPM would come out to 120 pulses. 2 pulses per rev. Yes, indeed advancing timing increases power, the real reason timing is advanced at higher speeds is 1 it runs better and 2 gasoline naturally burns slow. Advancing the timing at higher speeds allows complete combustion thus more power.
