I built or rebuilt all the bikes I have. I also build my wheels. I love the 90's - 2000's bikes best. I was hoping to see a clear coat on top of the new decals. Thank you.
Riding a Hoo Koo E Koo on the Hoo Koo E Koo trail was a snarky goal of several of us. Marty had one(never let anyone ride it except him). I settled for an older Cannondale, similar to this bike but Aluminum. I lived in Larkspur so all these trails were close and where closed to biking not too long after. Northside, Tucker trail obviously but now all closed to bikers. We moved over to China Camp and started building trails. Awesome build and restoration. I do not miss those brakes, V brakes, I do(they helped so much).
Cool video! I have a 1995/96 HOO KOO E KOO mountain bike, still in close to mint, I bought it new , in about 1996. I've not been on a bike in about 15 years, just getting back into biking at 56. SO looking forward to it!
I adore these videos but sometimes there are little details that drive the bike mechanic part of my mind crazy. The chain rubbing on jockey wheels can be resolved by tightening the b-limit screw or cutting the chain to the correct length. Using levers to install a tire is a no-no in most professional shops, for stubborn tires my go-to is a Giant tubeless instillation tool if I can’t get it by hand. Always keep greasy gloves off white saddles, frames, grips, and cables, having ‘clean’ and ‘dirty’ pairs of gloves really cuts down on the hassle of cleaning a bike right after you’ve built it. Never use Torx keys where hex keys should be unless absolutely necessary. I love these videos and keep up the great work! The bike looks fantastic! Just some tips from one mechanic to another.
Que belleza,,,, las consentidas hoy en día,,,,, full inversión y hay que cuidarlas,,,, soy amante del ciclismo y en ellas recorro las vías de mi Azuay querido... Saludos desde Cuenca Ecuador.
Nice build. I'd suggest using grease on brake bosses, derailleur hanger, pedal threads, and even packing the grease in on the caged headset bearings. A light clear coat over the decals also would make for that extra bit of durability
I love my '87 Hoo Koo. Still rides like a dream as they say. I'll never regret however, having that horrid u-brake changed to seat stay cantilevers. The mud the u-brake picked up was such a mess. Beautiful build though!!!
Crazy nice bike. And so many find these bikes sitting outside in the elements or abandoned while everyone gets fatter driving cars. Hey you need cars but some people wont even consider a short ride to local store and then they bitch about parking.
I have an old trek I bought off fb marketplace last year. It’s rusty and needs some work but ima try restoring it this summer so it can look nice af like this one
Nice build! I own a minty all original 1988 Green Hoo Koo E Koo, gifted to me by a friend who barely rode it and stored it hanging up in his garage for 30 years. Nice to see you do up the paint on this so close to the original. I like the way the tires look. How does it ride??
Nice!!!... I have a 97 hkek, at least I think its a 97, maybe a 98. I honestly cant remember when I bought it!! Cable routing is very different than the one in this vid. It has the squigly, wavy gary fisher font. I ride it all the time. Feels like time travel back to a better century whenever I'm on it.
Great build, those SimWorks tyres are just spot on. Given you have spec'd those, I am struggling with the brake shifter combo. Other than that clean build.
i had a green fisher hoo koo e koo frame that i lost during covid when i couldn’t pay my storage fees because i worked in the hospitality industry and everything shut down. i lost 2 old centurion road bikes, one a fixie, two full suspension specialized fsr’s, and a 1950’s columbia tandem with all original equipment including a child seat.
Those quick release pedal adapters are neat. I would think that they would be noisy. Do you get any clicking coming from them when you are pedaling hard?
the best of the video was the camera angles, picture quality and edit.... if you want to up your game you should invest in a grinding wheel some polishing disks and wax in order to make the stainless and alu parts pop, further something unique like hidden cable routing thru the frame would be some really cool detail.
Nice restoration. Was oogling my friend's '86 Ritchey Ascent yesterday with fillet brazed frame & matching bullmoose bars. Such a thing of beauty!!! No clear coat over those water decals? Hmmm, they'll scratch right off.
@@dudeonbike800, good, suggest then confirming its an Ascent. The Ascent was Ritchey’s late 1985 foray into imported, tig-welded bikes following split with Fisher and their original imported “Montare MountainBike” (before it became the Fisher MountainBike Montare). Don’t believe me, just google it, the Ritchey Project being a good place to start. The original catalogs found there even mention how the “Ascent” is the new entry level model and if you look at the ID sections you can check construction techniques.
Don’t know where my response to @dudeonbike went…oh well try again…dude, glad you know fillet brazing, so then check to see if it is actually an Ascent. The Ascent was Ritchey’s late 1985 foray into bringing an imported, tig-welded entry level “Ritchey” to the market. If you don’t believe me, fine, just google it with the Ritchey Project being a good place to start. Check the catalogs as well as the ID your bike sections.
Dude, good to know you recognize fillet-brazing, now you need to confirm if the bike is an Ascent. Ritchey introduced the imported and TIG-welded “Ascent” in late 1985. It was his “entry level” bike similar to what he and Fisher had done with the original Montare. You can google the Ritchey Project and check the catalogs and their ID section if you don’t believe me.
I have a '96 GF H-K-E-K MTB (silver) that could use a redo. I've thought about stripping it down to the frame and hanging it as garage wall art...this video gives me promise
the color combination is very beautiful, however the spokes of the wheels are mounted wrong, we noticed this already in the placement of the inner tube, the two spokes that are between the hole of the inner tube are crossed and not open as they should be, there is a lack of lubrication in a lot of screws because when they get wet from the rain they will rust and get stuck, the cassette gear must be assembled with grease, the central one must have a greater torque, because the tendency of when you pedal more with the bike the cups of the central one will loosen and the bearings will work without pressure, in a few months the new power unit will open up, in the official shimano course it confirms everything I wrote, in the service manuals of the brands they also state that adequate lubrication is necessary for any threaded item that will be screwed onto the bike to avoid locking, however screws that already have a self-locking layer must be placed with minimal grease dripping.
