how to adjust the handbrake on an 80 series landcuriser, also included is my hack to make the adjustment last longer. if you like the video please click like subscribe and share it thanks.
8:46 use a couple of washers and lightly nip up 2 opposing wheel nuts to locate drum against the hub. 1st thing you need to do it make sure the bell crank pivots / rubber boots/ pins are not excessively worn (where the rear cable sections meet the backing plates) and / or the cable is not over adjusted (95% of landcruisers) ie the rubber pads are lightly touching the backing plates on both sides. Bell cranks in line with the backing plates eg the threads are at 90 degrees with the handbrake off. Settle shoes as you did then wind the adjuster up until firm (not tight) until you cannot turn the rotor/drum then back off 4 points on the star wheel adjuster. When it's done right the cable will never need adjustment - only shoes over time/ sand /mud etc. Most 'pro's' struggle with the LandCruiser handbrake so great work & a top vid !
Thanks for the comment. I put a new kit through a while back. As you said parts were starting to ware and it was becoming sloppy. But that was before I started on RU-vid.
Hey mate, cheers for the advice. Would you recommend using something a bit more sturdy than thread tape to make the adjustment last longer, or even just weld them in place? Cheers
I wouldn’t weld them. You still need them to be adjustable. Once welded as your pads ware you will lose your handbrake. I just use this to prevent the adjustment being able to wind back and loosen off. Thread tape is probably the easiest. But you could use string or electrical tape. Anything that will pack in behind the thread and stop it winding back.
While locktite is not a bad idea it will make it harder to adjust later on. Even using this method over time you still need to make fine adjustments as the pads ware. If you use locktite you have to fully disassemble to adjust. Rather than just use a screw driver through the slot hole. I would suggest not using the locktite on this part
@@blackllama1 I believe there's a few levels of locktight where it's not fully solid, essentially light, medium and fixed, I'll give it a go on my 105 in a month's time, but thanks for the idea, appreciate it mate ☺️
Hey mate I just stumbled across ur channel , loving the how to videos . I met you in Morisette once , I had the maroon 80 series . Keep up the great work mate . Cheers !!
You mention modified upgraded break pads and drum.. what are you referring to? What are the upgrades? One more idea, you can look through your eBay purchase history to list the name of that hand tool that you couldn’t remember the name of.
Liz Ramirez the modified kit is mostly an extended piece called the dog bone it separates the shoes. Can also weld a few mm onto the old ones I did this first but then bought new ones. www.ebay.com.au/itm/193531651592 the extended dog ones put a more positive force on the shoes, I also put on all new springs. Will have to look up the tool.
Why the hell does everyone's rotor drum just pop off? I stripped my M8 service bolt holes (heavily corroded) and was lucky enough to just have enough depth the drill and re-tap with an M10. I got it off, but it cracked the rotor and slightly bent it. Not a fun job is an understatement. Cheers for the tip with the thread tape, shame it's too late. I wonder if you could put a metal hose clamp around it?
Who knows I’ve never tried that. It would leave you no adjustment though. As for rotor drum I have had it lock but usually frees up with some light taps.
Great video mate with very helpful advice. I found you because I'm deciding between 80 and GU Patrol. Subscribed instantly and will watch the rest of your videos. Thanks again.
@@blackllama1 Thanks for the reply mate. Can I ask for your advice? If you were getting your first 4wd and completely impartial to brands, would you still choose 80 over GU Patrol?
@@PadmaDorjee they both have there good and bad points. I looked at getting a patrol but was sold on the comfort of the 80 over the patrol. Since then I have learnt a lot more about the 80 series I find parts are fairly easy to get for anything you need. They go well for there age. I would suggest you take one of each for a drive and see what you think. On my channel I will keep fixing bits and making vids on the 80 as they come up. But for the age I think the car is doing pretty well. I hope that this helps
I have welded beads onto it to make it longer. Now running a pre cut one that you can purchase as a longer after market set. I found the welds wore down to quickly.
Ok so I took off the hug and adjusted the adjuster thingy then went to put the hub back on and it's fowling on the top section of the handbrake pads. I've loosened off the handbrake in the vehicle as well as turned the adjuster as far as it will go to bring the pads is but the hub still won't fit? Any idea what is happening?
It’s possible that the brake shoes are not seated properly give them a bit of a rattle and push them together with your hands sometimes they can jump out and not seat this will make them to big for the drum to fit back over.
Hi mate. Great vid. I tried to adjust my handbrake today using this vid for reference. I had both back wheels off the ground with the handbrake off and the auto in neutral and transfer case in neutral. When I try turn the hub the whole drive train is turning. I can see the front driveshaft moving. Because the front wheels are on the ground it makes it impossible to turn. This doesn’t seem right to me. Do you have any idea why that would happen?
When I do it I have one back wheel on the ground this stops things turning also I have the car out of gear. I have a manual. I f you have the 2 back wheels in the air one will turn the opposite way due to the way a diff functions. thus turning the drive shaft. Try dropping one wheel on the ground
@@blackllama1 Thanks mate. I’ll give that a go. I have to say I was surprised to see the opposite wheel turning in the same direction as I was sure a 97 would have LSD. I had the diff rebuilt a few months back. I’m concerned they might have done something wrong. Cheers
97 has viscous centre diff - very similar to LSD in the rear. That is why when you turn one rear wheel the rear LSD + the centre viscous coupling is trying to supply drive to the front diff 😉
@@mjhmech4903 Thanks mate. That’s great info. I don’t know why I always thought LSD meant it would turn opposite way. Someone must have told me the wrong thing years ago and it always stuck with me. Do you know of any way to make it not bind up like that when adjusting the hand brake or is the only option to lift all 4 wheels off the ground? Or leave 1 rear on the ground like black llama said?
