89-99 Yamaha FZR 600 - Complete Carb Rebuild / Carburetor Clean Restore - FZR600 

For sure. Happy to help! Thanks for watching and the comment. Let us know if you have any questions or need parts: www.ebay.com/str/midnebraskamotorsports

The way it comes apart from the bike you have to remove the tank, and cross bars then go under it to remove the Allen bolt clamps on the intake. I tried to pull the bowls from mine while on the bike and the Phillips screws are kinda tough to get out where they have been in there so long or due to over torq. However I did get one bowl off and it’s full of rust or dirt but it runs good and idles it’s just full of gunk

Oh shoot. I’ll get that next time. Thanks for watching and the comment! Let us know if you need anything! midnebraskamotorsports.com

BDST32

That's usually called a bleed tube or emulsion/emulsifier tube. If that's broken and missing most of the piece then maybe it could cause excess fuel to get to that specific cylinder but it probably wouldn't overflow the carb. That would be a fuel tap or float issue. The float height needs to be checked per manual. Rule of thumb is to tilt the carbs until the float needle seats into place and JUST BARELY collapses the float needle pin. Then measure the distance from the bowl flange to the top of the float and check that against the manual spec. If fuel pours out of the carbs the float is bad or needs the tang pushed upwards towards the needle seat. (The hole where the gas flows in from and the float needle pushes into)

I guess I don’t know what the issue with yours is?? Thanks for the comment! Let us know if there is anything we can help with. Check out: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-X0AdFxkJiOg.html for more tips. And: www.ebay.com/str/midnebraskamotorsports for all your parts.

Try ebay. They have sellers for these parts

Too much air or not enough gas. Make sure carbs and boots are all seated tight with no leaks anywhere. Check especially between the engine and carbs. If you have no muffler and airpods/airbox delete that will happen. You could try increasing the main jet size and or shimming the jet needle 1-2mm. If you do both you'll get a little more fuel delivery at 1/2 to full throttle. This should feed it enough gas to achieve higher revs without bogging. And yes it should be lifted up at least some at half throttle because of the engines vacuum created on intake stroke. You're either not getting enough fuel to the carbs or cylinders. Or there's an air intake leak somewhere leaning you out too much at higher revs.

@@kkc3009 thank you sir 👍

@@michaelschuler7397 I've found downdraft carbs to be a pain to properly seat and tighten the rubber boots when the carbs are wedged in the frame like that with very little access to the clamp screws. These commonly have old dry rotted and cracked up carb boot joints going to the engine. It was a common hack to slop gasket maker over them when they got cracks causing intake leaks and lean conditions.l because it's a pain to change them. Eventually it starts sucking pieces of the old dry rubber to the intake causing bigger holes and making the problem worse. 🥲 If your engine speed and revs don't quickly sweep back down to idle after mid-high revs you could have excess air being sucked into the intake. Like if the engine speed "hangs" and slowly falls back to idle. May be a little less noticeable at idle and then worse at higher revs because the cracks will flex and open up to suck more air in. Seen it on 600 4s and especially on 1000cc & up 4s side and down draft carbs. Did you figure anything out? Those vacuum slides rise with engine vacuum from each cylinder and is actually one of the reasons why carburetors are synchronized to their corresponding cylinder. Each cylinder makes it's own different vacuum thus it needs the carb throttle plates dynamic synced to match. I bench sync most all my carbs and get minimal back popping because the engines run pretty well. Airbox and custom or deleted mufflers on most as well.

@@kkc3009 yeah I know what you mean about those boots . I inspected them and made block off plates to pressure test them . They seem in petty good shape without any leaks . I hesitate to put aftermarket Chinese rubber on as those literally last 2 years. They can’t make rubber for some reason . I think I’m going to make my own over the winter just need to get the shore hardness right on the neoprene mix and make some molds using the stock boots . I bench synced them and used a nice manometer to tweak . Anyways I will keep at it until I am happy but thanks for the tips 👍

@@michaelschuler7397 they can't really make anything better than the original but they sure do like to improve upon what they stole from others 🤣. Anyways you could even make your own little carb boot joints. But since you pressure tested and got good results the ones that go to the engine must be good. No problem sometimes I actually help lol. But this bogging, it's still present? If you have the airbox removed and a less restrictive exhaust this can happen. It's happened to be with bikes I bought that had air pods and the pipes chopped just after the crossover or H section. Cured by increasing main jets and one or two sizes up idle jet. Remove epa or welch plug caps and back out the idle mix screws another half to full turn. This generally cures a bogging or can't increase revs condition if the bike otherwise starts and runs well. It's like hitting a limiter well before the actual limiter and then the bike will just bog. Is this what happens during riding or just while testing it in the garage or something?