90%+ Furnace Install (Start to finish) 

Working on it!

Ha! I knew someone was going to notice that. Time to watch the helper video again.....lol

LOL I noticed Juan texting too! 🤣

No problem

No Problem! Thank you.

Thank you! 😁

You're welcome

Thanks brother

Yup. I always hook the common up if there is one available, even if Nest says it's not needed.

Good practice

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thank you

I wouldn't say I felt hesitation, but more like indifference. I would consider both to be standard contractor brands and don't really think one is an upgrade over the other. But bottom line is going to be the quality of the install itself. If that's done right, you'll get the most out of either brand.

Sure. I've had to do it myself a few times.

Thanks

I forgot to ask when you are installing gas piping is it easier to start from gas valve to manual shut off or from the manual shutoff to the gas valve?

@@marcusdarnell3348 I work from both ends to a union.

You need more than different blower speeds to make a system truly 2 stage or multi stage. For AC you also need a staged compressor and for heating a 2 stage gas valve. This particular install had neither. In this case, changing the blower speed only effects volume of the system and the dehumidification factor. It will do very little if anything at all for efficiency. Typically, heating will be a lower blower speed while cooling is higher., hence forcing the unit to run with the jumper at higher speed for AC mode.

@JerseyMikeHVAC Thanks for the reply. So in this case weren't you installing a furnace with two speed blower? Isn't the gas valve part of the furnace? For me the idea of a two speed blower furnace is to allow the furnace to run more or less continually on low speed as opposed to coming on full blast (loud) and run for short time and turn off. Short cycle isn't desirable. As far as a/c model would I be correct to assume desired is to have blower come on high whenever compressor was running?

@@jimw6991 That is not what short cycling is. Short cycling is either a malfunctioning system that doesn't run a full cycle at all or an oversized system (like a 3.5 ton unit cooling an area only requiring 2 tons). On a properly sized system, changing blower speeds can increase or decrease cycle times, but all that really does is alter latent and sensible heat removal ratios. Lower speed will remove more humidity but run much longer cycles. Higher speeds will remove humidity too, but will bring down sensible heat faster. It's not short cycling. Again, blower speed does not make staging. Compressors and gas valves do. Blowers just compensate based on compressor or gas staging. The furnace didn't have a 2 stage gas valve. The AC didn't have a 2 stage compressor. Therefore it cannot be a 2 stage furnace. The higher blower speed could compensate for a 2 stage AC system (compressor), but this customer didn't have one. Blower speed alone is only rule of thumb for heating/cooling. You can run it at any speed you desire. For some customers comfort is priority. For other noise. For some energy efficiency, etc. Blower speeds are adjusted for these factors. A properly sized system will still work properly regardless of blower speed.

Low voltage wiring is pretty much the same as straight cool. Just need the w terminal for heat. Crack a union or cap on the gas line for just a second with the gas cock open to purge air out. That will help prevent false starts on startup. Usually I do a delta T between supply and return. There's a sticker inside the unit that tells you your heat rise limit. Often between 35 and 65 deg F. You want your delta T between those numbers. Too high and you'll have to back off on the gas pressure at the gas valve inside the unit. If the PCB and blower allow for different speeds in different modes use red (low speed) off of blower for heating and black (high) for cooling. Or go through the menu to run heat at a lower speed than cooling.

Winter air doesn't have a lot of moisture in it and can be drier than the air in the home. And even though the condensation from combustion is removing some moisture when air is taken from within the home, it is often not enough to significantly alter humidity levels. In my opinion, indoor air would be a preference. Really cold, dense air can potentially trigger pressure switch issues if you have any flaws in the way the flue pipe and furnace was installed or with some really tightly designed furnaces, though that's not really common. But warmer indoor air is also less dense and is easier to heat, which can help a little bit with efficiency. If it were my house? I would put a damper controlled fresh air intake from outdoors to the utility area that the furnace is drawing indoor air from for better air quality in the home overall, rather than pipe cold air straight into the furnace from outside.

Yes, wire in series between control board R terminal and thermostat R terminal.

Can you just series the red wire off the transformer, if you have 2wires on the red terminal. Thank You

The blower is capable of running at a low or high speed based on temperature differences between room ambient and thermostat set point. If room is 74 and stat is set to 72, it can run at low speed for less power consumption without going full speed all of the time. If the temperature difference is higher the unit can kick into the higher second speed to meet the larger load. You need a 2 stage thermostat and condensing unit to do this, but you don't have to. You can just use a regular thermostat and condensing unit that run at one speed. Without the jumper from Y1 to Y2, the blower will only run at the lower speed all of the time and full cooling capacity will never be achieved. The jumper forces the unit to run at the higher speed so it will run at full capacity.

This is a positive pressure coil in a conditioned space. Don't necessarily need one, But 99% of the time I put one in anyway, Don't recall why i didn't on this one...its been a while.

@@JerseyMikeHVAC Thanks for sharing! Your video helped me out tremendously.

We were done by 2!

​@JerseyMikeHVAC You make it look easy. I am confident I could easily do the work, but I lack knowledge of what could go wrong, what to check and verify, etc. Do you think hvac tech would be willing to come in and inspect, test a unit a homeowner like me installed before it is powered up and run the first time? My idea being I could save money doing the labor and pay for the technical knowledge part of the job, if that makes sense, but make certain before using the system nothing important got overlooked. Great video and nice install. I picked up a few tips.

@jimw6991 You may be able to find a guy but it's not likely going to be through contacting local hvac contractors. Very few companies will take on the liability. You'd be better off trying to find an experienced HVAC guy willing to moonlight a little bit to help you out. Local ad, ask around HVAC supply houses, that sort of thing.

There's no enforcement by plumbing inspections, particularly when its not discharged into plumbing and wastewater systems, so all I can do is recommend.

@kennyw7453. That's funny you mentioned that. I just failed an inspection here in NJ. for not having a condensate neutralizer kit.

@MrCountmein3 where in NJ?

@@JerseyMikeHVAC mine hill. But like you said it's going into a waste water drain so I'm unsure of the code for that

@@MrCountmein3 The acidic nature of the water can weaken and erode piping over time, and I would agree a neutralizer is definitely a good idea.