In this video, I attempt to repair a PS4 mainboard SAC-001 that is shutting down very quickly. This one was laying loose in my garage with a sticky note.
After all that work, it was a Resistor! that figures eh? In any case that re-ball will help keep this in good working order for some time. I am happy for the win! I thought that this was a no-fix but once again you worked your magic. Good work my friend! I look forward to your future videos. Cheers!
Nice work! I remember the days when I used to do this for work. Reballing using the stencil and flux is not an easy task to do...especially filling in balls individually afterwards and lining everything up so hats off to you. Seeing that resistor reminds me that I have a SAC-001 board that someone destroyed and knocked off several components....but it's hard to find a good close up photo so lord knows if I'll ever get it going without watching more videos like yours. Great setup with the microscope and rework station + board heater!
I have he manny console and know every PlayStation like the back of my hand.I had a few of these models.I don’t have the ability to do surgery on a APU like this.what I do is take the plate that bolts down the heat sink.I bend it and it applys pressure to the board and this model is good to go.the ps3 fat boy is currently the only console maid by PlayStation that I can’t bring back to life.I enjoyed your video and wish could have got into this type of work at a younger age.your a wise man looking back on what I was doing it was because the APU ball joints had failed.I guess you could say I’m hands on with my work.thank you for this video I learned a lot.
It's the same for me. As it is a hobby, I can't justify probably a couple thousand dollars for a decent BGA rework station. Plus, these PS4s are just not worth what they once were.
The reball was needed as well. I didn't edit this very well. The APU voltages were there before the reball and missing afterwards. Somewhere in between I must have broke that resistor. Also, I was able to make it boot normally until it overheated by pushing down on one corner of the APU. I didn't get that recorded.
I hate doing a tonne of work to find out it was something simple. Good result though. Was very tempted to buy a large BGA rework station once, if I did I might have ended up saying yes to a whole lot more headaches like trusting I'd put a million balls on correctly!
Oh the BGA reball was necessary. I was able to get it to boot once by pressing on the corner of the APU. I wasn't recording then. Also, after the reball, I had no APU power at all. I had APU power before the reball. I had to have knocked that resistor loose during the rework. I don't think I could have ever had APU power without it.
@@ToltecMerc by the way I have tested the new TEA is the replacement for DAp053T and i confirm that it works fine and tested the console about 2 weeks ago.. just still not tested under external load as i have just recived my dc electric load only few days ago .. Thanks again for sharing your knoledge Keep going 🫡
very good. reball to apu is welcome. when you manually place the balls on the apu, clean the place well with ipa, then apply flux very, very little, so the balls stay in place and do not move when you heat them.
The problem you had happened to me several times, just when the video started I was going to tell you, in my case I did not have ram, gpu or vcore voltages, that missing capacitor goes to the PWM
@@ToltecMerc personally i like using these solder balls. paste is messy business. plus i used to get uneven ball sizes all the time, but that could be just me.
It looked like alignment of the stencil was difficult. Also I would be interested in how easy the stencil comes off after you flow the solder balls. Perhaps a complete tutorial on the next BGA you do? Thanks for continuing to share your experience as we all learn.
Hey mate! Love your vids... have fixed alot using your videos. Just a question. I have one with same bluenlight on for 2 secs and turn off.... when i measure the TH5204 for the 1v... i get nothing.... the rest have power....any ideas?
Except I had the APU and RAM voltages before the reball. They were totally missing afterwards. No APU core voltages and no RAM voltage. That's what made me suspicious that I had done something.
@@ToltecMerc Very good work. You are definitely a Play Station wizard. I've learned tons from watching your vids. Keep it up. Did you create the square adapter you put on your hot air station?
No. I bought off of eBay and modified it to fit. www.ebay.com/itm/383174960680?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pDC24JRgSXS&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=mrxy8wV3RYi&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
On the remounting of the APU, how could you tell it was soldered? In some videos I've watch, you can see the chip actually "find home"/sift a bit. Some will show (with smaller IC) the chip "dancing" a bit with wiggling the airflow. In this case, I saw nothing. I did not see the chip shift, sink, or do nothing. If that is case, how do you know you have fully soldered it? (Sorry, I am trying to learn how to replace a much smaller PowerPC chip and have yet to be successful. There is also an FPGA, I would like to learn to change that only has ball connections around the outer edges of the chip, so it shouldn't be as difficult (no heatsink pad in the center). Do you have the airflow set to min/middle/max? I wish I had someone local I could learn from, but I do not.
I nudged it at the bottom and top. I'm sure it was hard to notice because of how far away the camera was. I nudge it very gently and watch for it to snap back. The balls are so close together on the APU, if you nudge too hard you risk the balls moving and merging underneath.
What Temps are you using with your hot air station? And is it a quick or an atten. I need to find that nozzle for my atten st-862d. Thanks for the video.
It is a Quick 861DW. I was using 360C when removing and installing the APU. The preheater does the rest. The nozzle is not specifically for my Quick. It is a generic one that I modified slightly to allow it to attach to the Quick.
Do you mind sharing what settings you use on your hot air for this sort of APU reball? I try asking others, even people i know defer to your wisdom who just tell me not to use that preheater and hot air. Yet ive seen many videos of people doing it successfully. I gather its about being smart and emulating a BGA profile not just smashing it with heat 😊 TIA appreciate another great video.
I preheat the board unitil it is around 110C, then I use about 360C from above with the wide square BGA nozzle. I use 350C when reinstalling because the APU will have leaded balls then.
Hi, im with same board and same problem, but i dont get the 1,5v on memory capacitors, the others (12v, 1v and 1v) i could mesure, in fact the capacitors from memory coil are shorted, what do you sugest? Tks a lot for your videos, im learnig so much. Sorry for my english and a hug from brazil
If you have a true short on the RAM voltage (1.35V) you need to find it. It could be a RAM IC or a capacitor on the 1.35V rail. There are many small ceramic capacitors on the 1.35V rail. Can you inject 1V on that rail and look for heat?
Use a minimum of flux. I just spread it really thin with my fingertip. I probably used around 415C with very low airflow. My airflow goes from 0-120. I was on 20.
