Dude, this video helped me so much. I was going to get gauges repair $350 and new cluster $505 or a used one with a hell of a lot of mile - e.g. 250K miles when mine only had 68K. I tested the gauges and they were fine. In a shimmer of light I noticed under the green coating that a strip had burned out. If you go to 7:13 of your video, look at the lower right bulb. That thin outer strip had a burn break in it. When I tested it with a volt meter around where you right thumb is it read 12v. when I went past the break it read 3.4v I soldered a jumper wire and everything work perfectly now. I would not have attempted a troubleshoot without your excellent lead. My mind was locked into gauges when I have not experience with and I found an electrical problem when I am good at. Thank you!
Detailed Explanation for those Curious If you’re wondering he is using the Super Lube - 100 CST NOT 5000. For those who weren’t aware when he said thin enough it to make it in there that would have been the 1st clue but to make 100% certain I played back the footage of when he dropped the bottle and got a clear picture of which of those two option was “check marked” on the bottle. For application you’re actually going to be pushing the fluid AROUND the spindle so the spindle will go into the syringe and make a seal against the yellow plastic section surrounding it. By pulling back on the plunger you’ll be ideally creating a slight vacuum in the chamber through the slight gaps between the metal spindle and yellow plastic encouraging the thin silicone oil to flow back into. You see him perform this action a couple of times because it’s not perfect but the end goal is to just get SOME amount of fluid down in there. If you are wondering where exactly the oil will be going, check out: Air Core (Gauge) Motor Video by - FixItFRANK He videos an up close tear down of the motor which shows a circular neodymium magnet that is attached to the shaft but sealed in a small cavity in the yellow plastic toward the rear of the motor (FixitFrank vid 9min) It’s just slightly bigger than the magnet with a pin hole on each end for the shaft to stick through. The little holes act to keep the shaft centered and because there is NO form of additional sealing the silicone oil tends to dry out over time. The small amount of free space around the magnet gets filled with the silicone oil to act as the dampening.
Hope this follow up helps anyone trying to do this for themselves. If you’re looking for alternative viscosity silicone oils try searching for “ToneArm Silicone Dampening Fluid” they offer varying degrees of viscosity and while having a MUCH HIGHER CST you can simply add a drop to a larger quantity of 100 CST to get a custom viscosity that approaches a similar resistance to spinning as any of the good air core motors from your gauge cluster.
Great write up. Yes The way I do it isn't the best but It was the best I can do. Really just hoping to help DIY'ers with this video. Thanks for the write up!
Nice work Matt! I think all us tech's can unite and agree mechanical odometer clusters are yuky. Most of the time they are misdiagnosed, so time is spent to prove there is nothing wrong (usally truck wiring or bad sensors/ground) and if there is actually a problem in the cluster good parts are difficult to find, as you covered I agree!
Exactly why I don't offer them as a service. If they come in the mail because I forgot to check if it's obs. I'll take care of it but other than that I turn them away. If I charged a bench fee I'd be all about them because it would easy work lol.
@@FixedUntilBroken Depends on your business model. If you have enough electronic cluster work to keep you busy then turning these away makes sense. If you get a bunch of requests then you could charge a high enough bench diagnostic fee and per-hour fee for air core non electronic clusters that it's worthwhile. It's the "I don't want to screw with this." price. No shame in that. I know mechanics that quote some jobs they don't want to mess with that way. If someone pays it then you make enough that it's worthwhile. It all depends on your comfort level and business model.
@@TheOcculus I do no fix no fee. I don't charge a bench fee so it makes turning down stuff like this easy for me. I rarely take on anything at all that I have a question in my mind if I can fix it or not at the moment.
I have a 1998 GMC K2500 7.4 Suburban and the Fuel Guage is erratic and doesn't read right. Do you have a video of how to remove the cluster and lubrication of the guage motor?
I don't know very many techs that do. I know Miami speedo did 2 years ago. I always just point people to him when they ask me to do obs. I don't know anyone else who does. I'm sure I could find more people on google but I don't really care lol
Great video and good step by step. Living in Phoenix with the amount of salvage yards I have run across hundreds of these instrument clusters. One question I do have is what is the resistance and watt rating of the potentiometer you are using as in 1/4 watt 10k ohms or something different ? Also if its not too much to ask what size are the pin connectors you are using with the potentiometer ? Thanks in advance !
I changed the rpm motor thinking that was the problem with my rpm staying at 0. With one that’s known to work but it still didn’t work when I put it together. Anyone know why?
Thanks for posting a video on this. So I have a 1995 Silverado that I believe has these same motors. Some of the motors jump every once in a while. My question is, can I add oil to them without having to pull the motors off of the board? Also, you showed in this video pulling air out of the motors before adding the oil, dose that also pull the oil out too? How much oil do you put in the motors? Do I need a syringe with a needle in it? Some information would greatly be appreciated. Thanks
on my 1998 gmc suburban and the instrument cluster i got from a 97 , the trip meter knob won't allow the plastic cover to be removed. does the small knob on the trip meter removable. ??
Thanks Matt. Is there a video on the odometer ? Great video thank you. I have one that is 15-20 mph to slow, but the tenths turns over perfectly on the money on the interstate. I have to run 90 mph according to odometer to run 70 mph. Thanks again Sir. Much appreciate any help with my situation.
@James Darrell Fultz Did you ever find a solution to your speedo problem? I'm thinking I may have a loose gauge cluster ground somewhere bc my fuel gauge reads 1/4 high, turn signal indicators work intermittently, and I see some needle bounce when turn signal is on.
I have two 99 120mph clusters that read low for rpm and speed. I’ve held rpm at 2k and pinned needle on which now matches my scan tool but at idle it reads low. Replacing my 100mph cluster in 97 k1500 Any idea why?
My dad has a 97 Silverado and the rpm and speedometer both max out when the truck is turned on. Any idea what would cause this issue? Great video, thank you for your knowledge!
Thank you for this I'm gonna service mine My oil pressure don't read rite and I know I got good psi on my mechanical gauge My fuel gauge vibrates lmao And every gauge but my MPH and RPM stay at half way when the trucks off lmao
Anyone know what the voltage on the signal wire from the vssb is supposed to be for a 95? Also can I just ground out the signal trace for the speedometer to test it after applying ignition and ground? Great video!
hello, what does my 1994 2 door blazer sport take? I replaced my oil pressure sensor 2 times and when left idling it goes to 0. so i connected oil pressure gauge tester and when idling it says 20 psi so somthing is clearly wrong here. I was thinking of replacing this oil pressure air core if that what mine takes. any suggestions are highly appreciated!! thanks for the video
Maybe you can help me out. I have a 1990 Chevy 1500, and I have had it for about 6 months now . Shortly after getting it, I noticed my odometer seems to work sometimes, either for the the whole duration of my ride or partial. I went ahead and replaced the speed sensor and have the same issue, it still works some of the time. When it does work, it doesn't seem like any gears in the odometer clusters are broken, it cycles through just fine. Any idea what this might be happening? Thanks
Great video! I have a 96 Tahoe and the temp sensor Will only read exactly halfway between 100° and 210° in my truck is it normal operating temperature. The truck runs perfect it’s just the gauge says the truck runs really really cold. Do you think changing out the oil in that motor will help? Also could you go into slightly greater detail on how to change the oil inside the motor? Another issue and the only other one that I have is the truth all motor. It only rotates A little bit then will stop.How do I fix that?
Had to re-watch you video since I first repaired my voltage and fuel air core motors. I finally replaced my pressure gauge ac motor and now I managed to put my needles all back on wrong... Fuel gauge stays at full... What did I do wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
They're not $20 anymore their $60 and up dollars and if you find 120 mph Escalade it's going to be $100 and up if you luck up and find a 130mph ppv cluster they're gold and are almost $500
I have a 1995 Gmc Sierra c1500 2wd pick up with a 8cy 5.0 in it and recently my speedometer and rpm went out and read zero I tried to replace the instrument cluster twice already with two different ones and still get a check gauges code. Does anyone have any advice? I have tried to change the speed senor as well.
Got a 97 that fuel guage goes straight down and binds up the oil guage. Also speedometer is off. Probably 30 mph higher than actual. Are these fixable?.. I threw in another cluster and temp guage and speedometer goes up while sitting still goes to highest setting when truck starts. Confused on where guages should go when powered?
The fuel pump on my 1997 Suburban c1500 kept blowing fuses and the pump finally failed. When I changed the fuel-sending unit I found that the wires were melted and fused together. After replacing the sending unit I noticed that the fuel gauge started spinning wildly around and around at high speed and jamming against the oil pressure needle below it. It seems a lot worse than just missing oil. Would this indicate a bad gauge or sending unit? Could the shorted wires in the sending unit have damaged the gauge? How would I tell the difference? I have a multimeter and very limited knowledge of electronics. Thank you for any advice you can offer.
@fixed until broken, ok i have a question. All my gauges were fine until i took the needles off the motors thinking i needed to to get the black face plate off. Clearly i was wrong. Now when i turn the truck on all the gauges are off. Gas gauge went to mars, idle it says im doing 40mph and 3500rpm, battery gauge is just a hair off, oil and temp gauges dont move. What did i do wrong?? Sounded like u mentioned about having to zero them. Could that be my issue? And how exactly do i zero it. Couldn't tell from the video
I have a 95 chevy 1500 gas guage does a lot of bouncing and reads a little over half when it is actually empty I have replaced sending unit and checked grounds. I bought a aftermarket guage as well but it reads the same? Would this fix my problem?
Never was a business in the first place. It's a hobby. I got a new job aerospace company and just haven't had time to get to everyone. Sorry if I never replied or called back but you probably messaged about a vehicle I don't regularly do and I currently don't have the time to make a harness and get pin outs for. Your probably in the pile of 87 other messages I haven't responded to. Sorry if that's caused you any inconveniences but it's not a business... Facebook just doesn't have hobby pages. They used to just call it pages but I know they pass off all pages as some sort of business.
How do I adjust the speedometer to read correctly for larger wheels on 1996 Chevy K1500? reads ok at 5 MPH but the faster I go the more it is off (reads faster then the truck is actually moving) at vehical speed of 70 the meter reads 7 MPR faster. {HELP}!
I followed your procedure and fuel gauge is still not working correctly. Initially the gauge would go way past the full position to the 3 o'clock position. Also it would oscillate at times. When I first checked motor it was very stiff. After installing dampening fluid it goes slightly below empty then when the engine is started it jitters about 1/4' deflection. What do you suggest at this point. Just to clarify this truck has dual tanks with a transfer pump between the two tanks. I have already replaced the pump and sending unit on the main tank. There appears to be a sending unit of some type on the rear tank. Not sure how this electrical system operates.
Thanks for the video. I have to change the speedometer motor in mine (reads 17.5% high at highway speed). I found a used cluster that only reads 5 or 6% high. Do you know if the tach and speedometer use the same motors (interchangeable)? The tach is dead on in both clusters. Also, would light machine oil (shaver oil) be OK in the motors (for my fuel gauge)? Thank you.
What causes the PRNDL Indicator illuminator to go out? Besides the cluster itself that is; have heard, that the headlight/dimmer switch could be malfunctioned.
Wow! Thanks for showing this. The replacement gauge is no longer available, "F" series for a 99 Tahoe. Fuel gauge very twitchy, The Pressure gauge after starting goes to nearly 80, but comes down to 65 when normal temp (160) is reached and lower at idle around 20 psi. This is with Mobil 1 syn 5W30. Ever since a rebuilt motor was put in. The old one I use 10w30 and it never got that high, and ran around 45 normal which is what I am used to in a 350 v8. The speed O shows 60 mph for 55mph true with GPS and those road signs that show you speed. Do you think I need a new speed gauge? Or maybe adjust the zero up 5 mph? Anyway thanks again!!
Can I send mine to you to fix? I am not a good fixer upper. I have a spare that I want to have repaired and then installed into my 95 Yukon. I don't know what year the spare is because I found it. The only difference I see on the face is that the tach on the spare goes to 6. The one in the Yukon now goes to 5
My problem is in my 95' c3500 oil pressure gauge. The wire to the sensor was melted from exhaust. so i thought that was the problem. Even after i repaired the wire the gauge stays in the same position as in this video.. i can tell it gets some kind of power to it as when i turn ignition on, it fluctuates but, stays in the same position on or off
Yes the board with the gear indicator. Was curious cause there is NOTHING on it in the factory service manuals. Do you know where I can get a complete set of the aircore motors for a 97 cluster?
Hello! I am a recent subscriber and was curious to know if you would possibly be able to help me if I cannot do it myself? I have a 98 Silverado with the same cluster as the one pictured here. I've replaced the bulbs, and am not solving my issue. Only behind the fuel gauge and one other are Illuminating and the others even with new bulbs in multiple attempts, I cannot get to light up. Need help please
Matt I know this video is not recent but I have a quick question on powering up the speedo and marking it for alignment on replacing it. Does it also have it written on the pcb back. Can I apply power and ground to it to get the zero position to change that particular motor? How would you do it for the speedo. Thanks Matt. James
Do these gauges reset to min when reinstalled on the vehicle? You said the motors have a home position and spun them, but I didn't see you move them back to min position before replacing the plexiglass face plate. I'm just curious because I'm thinking of replacing the faceplate with a US Speedo Kit and want to know how to not mess up my gauges. Also my fuel gauge flutters but reads correctly. Should I seek out a replacement motor from a salvage gauge cluster? Also, are those motors interchangeable between fuel, oil pressure, etc.?
Final question, would the needles from the newer 03 design fit and work on the 96-99 range cluster like you worked on here? This is for an aftermarket parts fitment. I cannot find many needles for the older design, but find many for the 03 and newer.
Said a whole lot of nothing .. when it was time to inject oil he left that out .. I have no idea where to inject fluid .. would have helped to let us know where to buy oil .suff about customer just took time ..
When your pulling the air is it pulling the oil out also? I been trying and trying to figure this out but it's the same everytime. I put the syringe over the needle and yellow part and its really hard to push the oil out. What am i doing wrong?
Doesn't sound like your doing anything wrong. some of the really ragged out motors can be too far gone. The other thing is the original "oil" in them when they where built was more of a grease because the didn't have to inject it. If you actually unwind the motor you could put a grease in it. The oil helps but its not as a good as original. Its just the best you cant do when you don't have access to new parts anymore
Thank you buddy. I have put the p motor (pressure) for the fuel and it seems to be working lol it just moves a bit. I can't find the parts new i guess the junk yard
I just put a new crate motor in my 96 ObS. Is there a way to re set the odometer so I can accurately track the miles on the new engine..or do I have to buy a new cluster from Dakota digital?
Be careful with that. Milage goes with the chassis/vin not the engine so you could get in trouble with odometer tampering. I'd recommend legal advice before doing that. There are loop holes but RU-vid isn't the place for answers on something that can have $10,000 fine associated with it.
@@johnnyboy859 no problem. It's not that it can't be done but it varies from state to state with different disclosure rules so I recommend getting legal advice before starting down that path
hello and excellent video! I have a question. My Chevy 97 C1500 has the "check gages" problem. I have read in various forums that the board needs to be replaced, do you know what this fault refers to? I appreciate any information.
I am not familiar with that light in the OBS stuff. Trailblazers had a check gauge light but that light was just an idiot light that would go off if you were overheating or something of that nature.
I have a 96 3500 dully with the fuel gauge doing the same thing what did you use to put the oil in is it like a turkey injector or do I need to buy a special syringe to put the Oil in