981 full service. Easy DIY. Save $$$ 

Thanks for the feedback. Happy driving. Jeff

No problems. Enjoy the car. It's a fantastic drive.

Happy to help

Thanks for the donation Mitch. Much appreciated. Happy you are getting something from the videos. Cheers, Jeff.

No problems. Happy to help.

No problems. Happy to help.

No problems. Happy to help.

The filter is a very coarse fibrous type that is designed to last for the transmission lifetime and will only catch really large bits. It's the same filter type that is used on a standard auto. I used to change them regularly but when cutting them open they were always empty. The wear particles in the clutch section will be either ferrous and caught by the magnets in the pan, or they are from the friction disks. These will continue to circulate in the fluid and not be caught by the filter. I have recently revived an old E36 BMW with 360,000 km on the clock. I did a full transmission service including the filter. The oil was like grey soup with none of the material in this being caught by the filter, and the magnet in the pan was thick with ferrous sludge. I cut open the filter to see what was inside. I counted 6 tiny pieces of metal in the filter in total, so it was basically empty. Don't know if it was the original filter, but it had certainly been in there for a long time. For me changing the fluid regularly is really important for a whole raft of reasons, but the filter is in my opinion a waste of time.

@@jeffrichardsoncardiy thank you so much for this again. That's invaluable information!

The way I do it is a bog standard way of priming the engine. Attempting to fill the pot is messy and won't fill in the other places where the oil has drained like the draw tube etc.

@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Makes sense buddy 👍

@@jeffrichardsoncardiyjust watched the video. Saw you explained pulling the fourth fuse. Was there a second fuse to pull also? Or just the one you described? Thanks

@@marcosvaldes8910 You pull the fuel pump fuse in the cabin to stop the engine by removing fuel pressure. For the priming you leave the fuel pump fuse out, but also pull the ignition fuse in the rear luggage compartment. In this way you have neither spark or fuel for the priming. No chance of ignition and also there isn't fuel being sprayed into the cylinders, which you don't want as this will wash the oil off the cylinder walls.

I will at some stage in the future when mine needs doing. That's a way off though. There's plenty of information online on how to do it.

If the question is regarding the PDK fluid changes there should be no difference. I'm not familiar with the 991.2, but I'm assuming it's still the 7 speed PDK and not the 8 speed like in the 992. The 7 speed setup is close to identical except a mirror image, so the same procedure applies. I change the gear oil every 10,000 km, along with the clutch fluid. Overkill, but there's so little fluid and it's a simple procedure so I do it. Objectively the gear oil doesn't need to be done as often as the clutch fluid. When changing the gear fluid you are able to remove about 90% of it, but you will only drain about 60% of the clutch fluid. The clutch area of the transmission is much more important for fluid changes, so to keep good fluid in there the changes need to be done more often.

Are you talking about mid-engined Toyota car? I’m not even sure such one exists. In case you missed that, cayman and boxters are mid engined two seaters with front and back trunk, so obviously access to engine accessories is quite limited.

Just a bog standard lithium based grease.

Fluids I used were from Nulon, an Australian lubricant manufacturer. Gear/diff oil is 75W-90 synthetic gear oil. Clutch oil is their DCT fluid.

@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Thanks Jeff, can't believe you have gone to so much trouble with you Porsche videos to help others. I will now replace the PDK/Clutch fluid when I get a chance using the Nulon fluid, the Diff can wait. For a DYI guy you look very well set-up, wish I had a hoist but manage. So far have done 2 oil changes and replaced the Spark Plugs... not easy! Thank you again from myself and the other Porsche 981 owners.

The only thing I can think of is they don't way fluid to get in the gap between the pan and housing that might then come out later and look like a leak. It says to do this in the workshop manual, but having now done this procedure numerous times I don't bother any more as I don't think it serves much purpose.

Wheels are Carrera S 20". 7.5L of oil for both the 2.7 and 3.4.

I've never been a fan of additives, but I have very little experience with any of them. If you have an engine/TX that is badly worn then I'm sure there are good products that help. My MO has always been, 'service well and replace bits before they get to be a problem', so I have never had the need for additives. That being said, I'm sure there are people out there with vastly more experience than me that would offer a different opinion.

It has always amazed me the lack of information about the PDK transmission from those people who you would assume would know. It's like some mystery box that Porsche has successfully put a shroud of secrecy around. I can guarantee you the information I've provided is straight out of the workshop manual. My transmission, as well as many others would have failed a long time ago if the information was incorrect.

@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Yea the dealer who said the fluids were different sent me a copy of WM of how to do the "final drive" drain and clutch pack drain, so that was helpful. I'd really like to know what that mystery plug is about, maybe something the factory uses when assembling the PDK. Porsche is in an odd place, it seems like they're fine with you working on you car sometimes but other times not. PIWIS is quite annoying but then they'll sell me any part I need and sometimes the techs tell me how to do the job so I'm just confused on what Porsche's stance is on the DIY guys. The PDK is kept pretty secret, you can find quite a bit of information about the engines but the PDK is kept under lock and key. I think they just want to keep PDK as a trade secret or it could be an agreement with ZF or both. PDK has a leg up on many other DCTs and is possibly one of the best so they most likely just don't want to make competition for themselves.

@@omarg6022 There are plugs all over transmissions. They aren't necessarily fluid plugs but may have other purposes. I have no doubt that Porsche want to keep the PDK as secret as possible. ZF are very open with spares etc for any other transmission they make. For the PDK it seems to me that they have done a deal with Porsche to only supply them and keep it wrapped up. I'd love one day to get my hands on a transmission, pull it to pieces and make a video series of it. You still wouldn't be able to get parts for it though.

@@jeffrichardsoncardiy yea I wonder where those tuning companies get parts from, sharkwerks and es motors have clutch pack upgrades and sharkwerks will change gear ratios.

@@omarg6022 I wonder also, and what they have access to. Is it the whole range of parts or are they having a third party produce what they need.

It's all part of the gear section, and it takes a 75W-90 GL 5 synthetic gear oil. The spec is MOBILUBE PTX 75W-90

@@jeffrichardsoncardiy super!!!

@@ryanlim0111 I just want to confirm. Don't put gear oil mentioned above in the clutch section. You will kill the transmission. You are probably all over it, but I just wanted to check.

If you pull the ignition fuse only, the car will crank and prime as shown in the video. The reason I remove the fuel pressure is to not have fuel sprayed into the cylinder during the priming process. With the fuel pump fuse pulled, there will still be residual fuel pressure. I don't want fuel sprayed in as it can wash the cylinder walls. I want everything fully lubed when it fires the first time.

@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Thanks Jeff, live and learn! I will be better informed for next time. Thanks

@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Jeff, this video is fantastic. I didn't know about not having to change the PDK filter, just the fluid. Makes the job way easier and way less daunting. Regarding pulling the fuses, (and I defer to you - you've likely forgotten more than I'll ever know about this), are we sure this is necessary or are you just being extra careful? I've never opened up a Porsche engine but I've had lots of high performance motorcycle engines apart (12K rpm redlines) and the engines are still well lubricated with the oil drained. There's a slight delay before oil pressure is up at re-start but it's by no means a "dry" start. I know that Porsche dealers do not pull the fuses and prime as you do. But again, I'm not challenging you, just want to hear more about why you do it. Thanks man, please keep up the good work.

@@user-de7bd7bx1i A couple of reasons. I've always hated the metal on metal rattling for a few seconds on that first start after an oil change so I've always done this on my cars to stop it. I've also come across some good info recently that showed there is an increase in wear particles in the oil sample if this isn't done (same thing as not pre filling a spin on filter) prior to the first start. Worse with thinner oils, which the Porsche doesn't use, so I might be overly cautious. Thicker oils seem to cling to components and protect on that first 'dry' start, so I don't think it's a big ticket item. It just makes me feel better though.

Not on that specifically, but the method is the same as any other. Have a look at the intake manifold video I did for how to remove the TB. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HqPPPF_zin0.htmlsi=B4XjXZYKuX-MzI4f

Yes, that's correct. Note the clutch fluid isn't normal ATF, but a type of ATF that is designed specifically for a DCT. Spec for fluids are below from the ZF lubricant list. Don't have to get these exact fluids. Just as long as it's this spec. 1. Clutch section Fuchs Titan FFL-3 => ZF Oil No. 0671.090.534 (ZF LifeguardFluid 7.3 DCT) => Porsche Oil No. 999.917.080.00 2. Transmission section ExxonMobil Mobilube PTX 75W-90 => Porsche Oil No. 999.917.067.00 or => Porsche Oil No. 999.917.090.00

Sensor is the black thing at the center/rear of the pan with 3 screws. Needs to be changed with the oil drained. I've looked before at the mm and not taken much notice because it changed quite a bit with temperature and didn't seem to be a good indication of oil level unless you had a temp v's level table. What indications do you have?

had an odd issue. I owned the car for 3 years, have done all the oil changes myself with exactly 8qt of oil (US). That always put me exactly in the middle of the oil level on the gauge. never in the three years has the oil level changed. until two weeks ago. I was driving the warning come on that I had too much oil (not possible only put in 8qt, a month prior and with 300 miles driving). When I stopped at a gas station to fill up, the level lowered itself to exactly the top good level and has been there ever since. At first I thought maybe it's the coolant that go into the oil. checked the coolant - not missing a drop. Thinking the oil sensor might be acting up. A scantool shows 65.250 mm. @@jeffrichardsoncardiy

The total it takes is a tiny bit under 3L, I think 2.95L is the spec. You won't get all of this out, maybe 2.5L. I'd have 3L on hand. I personally buy the fluid in 20L drums, as it makes it a lot cheaper and I do it regularly. The 75W-90 goes in all of my cars be that a diff or transmission. Just confirm your comment on the cold and no dribble was with the engine running? If the engine is stopped it should flow out with a good gush. If the engine is dead cold and engine running with the fill plug removed, you should be able to see the fluid through the fill hole if you shine a light down there. If not then it's probably low. The expansion of the fluid is minimal from cold to 40C, which is where the correct level is determined. I'm assuming the cold temp of the fluid when you checked wasn't -20C or some crazy cold temp.

PDK clutch fluid. Car level, engine not running and cold, around 20c. No dribble, could not see oil. Drained and pan “tube” siphoned then left overnight. Total 2.9 ltrs of old oil removed. Drain plug back, refill to dribble (engine not running). Run engine, temp (IR) to 40c. Topped up until good dribble flow, replaced fill plug and torqued. Remaining fluid from 4 ltrs is 600ml, so 3.4 ltrs added less some wastage (left in the syphon pump/spillage etc.) I estimate 3.3ltrs went back in. So 2.9 out, 3.3 back in. Does that sound ok or possible overfill? Would 400ml additional oil cause a problem? I’ve not driven the car yet so I could drain a little. Thank you.

It sounds like it was a little low prior to the fluid change and you have now corrected it. If it was a dribble with the engine running at 40C that is the correct level, and it makes sense that you needed to put some more in. I'm a little concerned why the level was low to start with. There is a possibility you have an internal leak from one chamber to the other. If you haven't drained the gear oil yet, I would remove the fill plug first, to see if this chamber has too much fluid. There should be a very slight dribble at most when removed. For this the engine doesn't need to be running.

Thanks Jeff, I will be attacking the transmission gear oil next week. I will do as you say and double check the level when the fill plug is removed. Thinking back, it was quite a strong dribble/flow when I was topping up so it’s possible I slightly overfilled. Should I run the engine and PDF fluid back up to 40c and let any overflow out or will a little extra not cause a problem? Sorry to hassle but I trust you and I just need a bit of support doing this for the first time.

@@len333p I wouldn't be concerned. I little bit too much, if indeed it is, won't be an issue at all. It's only if it's seriously over filled that it would be an issue.

I don't want any fuel going into the cylinder when cranking. Otherwise it will put fuel in the exhaust and also wash down the cylinder walls and remove the oil, which is something that is considered undesirable.

Got it! Thanks Jeff, now I understand.

As long as the clutch fluid is the correct spec, mixing is fine. The actual porsche gear fluid has a spec that is GL4.5 75W 90, meaning it complies with both GL4 and GL5. Just ensure you find something that has this. Yes, DCT ATF for the clutch.

Depending on how much you drain. You will normally get about 2.5L without dropping the pan. Since this video I worked out how to remove more fluid. Link below to this video if you are interested. In this case you can get a bit more than 3L out. So you need a little extra for the refill. I would recommend 4L. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dTzK7xbZQyM.html

Thank you so much for your response Jeff. I’m planning to do this in January. Much appreciated 🇨🇦

When you change the clutch fluid you can only get about half out, so it's like half emptying a bucket of dirty water and then fill it with clean all the time. The gear fluid you can completely drain. For this reason I change the clutch fluid every 10,000 km and the gear every 20,000 km. This is probably overkill, but I'd rather do it more often than not. It's cheap and easy to do. I've seen the inside of transmissions and clutch packs that have had regular fluid changes. They just don't wear. 200,000 km and you can see still the part number printing on the clutch friction disk contact faces. It also keeps all the crap and hence wear out of the valve body, which is critical. The Porsche suggested timeline is to minimise the maintenance requirements. If you can I'd do it far more often. I base it on km only, not time. Unlike engine oil you don't have the problems that possibly require a replacement based on time.

@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Thank you very much for your detailed answer. Much appreciated. My car is a US 2014 981S PDK with 39,900 Miles/64,000 km. PDK service has not been done to my knowledge, although the car is still under Porsche Warranty (CPO) until June 2022. Although the service is technically not due per the owners manual, viewing your advice here, including other sources, I will be doing this service ASAP at the local Porsche dealer. Question: Do you recommend also doing the PDK Sump and Built in Filter with this PDK clutch and gear service? I understand the Sump needs to be replaced and it comes with a new filter. My PDK works just fine. During the downshifting transitions in "manual" model into 2 gear, as I am slowing the car down, are sometimesnot as smooth as in "auto" mode (a bit jerky down shift timelines in manual mode...I hear that many be normal)

@@apolloandratti7922 I don't recommend doing the pan/filter, but some disagree with me. Have a look at the Planet 9 link in the description. It's the original write up for the PDK fluid change and has a lot of detail on what is done and why. It might answer a few questions.

@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Thank you again. I will look at the Planet 9 link.

It's electric power steering so no fluid

G'day Tyson. Two on the PDK and one for the heater core. This video shows both PDK valves ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vf4V15LggzQ.htmlsi=znBrZ4ghMAQ27Wzm This video shows the heater core valve ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NN1wJ6s1O3I.htmlsi=jdhYOOX3CkJrNxx8&t=352

@jeffrichardsoncardiy thanks for the fast reply! Lets hope the two on top of the transmission are accessible without dropping the trans. But yeah. That nails 3 COV locations. I wonder how many others there are.

@@ForgetfulFoot I forgot about the big one that is on the front of the engine. Video here explains how the entire cooling system works. Later on in the vid it shows where this valve is. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OvUjpMgN1yk.htmlsi=b32s_aLgvR2b7mfs&t=864

Tyson, have you put the diagnostics on the car? This should normally pinpoint where the problem is rather than simply seeing a generic 'coolant fault' message on the MFD.

@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Buik Motorsports in Adelaide hooked it up to a PIWIS and it only showed a vacuum fault on the computer. It didn't give the specifics on which COV was at fault. Looking online across forum posts etc. Some people say that you can get a specific indication of which one failed via PIWIS. Others say you just get a generic vacuum fault. Bit annoying.

The prices were relevant for when I made the video a few years back. They are a bit more expensive now, but not much. I use Nulon fluids, which are made here in Australia. OEM fluids are a waste of money. As long as the fluid is the correct spec, that's all that counts.

Also mine is at 75K miles, is there any software that needs to be reprogrammed for the clutches to close at a different rate, I noticed mine are slipping so I hope it’s just the fact the previous owner never changed the fluid and the very thin fluid is causing that.

Gear oil and diff are the same thing as it's all in the one chamber. About 3 litres. PDK clutch fluid has about 6 litres capacity, but will only drain about 3 litres, so this is all you need.

@@jeffrichardsoncardiy what fluid do you use for the clutch pack?

@@omarg6022 Nulon DSG fluid.

You are correct that normally an active carbon filter shouldn't be washed, but I'm talking from my own perspective. The car is a convertible, the roof is off 99% of the time, and I live in a place where the air is clean with zero pollution. I just want to filter the debris that would otherwise end up in the heater core/evaporator on the few occasions where the a/c fan is blowing.

why risk it?

Have a look at the Planet 9 thread referenced in the description. There is a lot of information there, and one of the things I talk about is this subject and the reasons I don't bother changing the pan/filter.

@@jeffrichardsoncardiy I will take a look Jeff but I personally will always drop and change the pan/filter @ 60K intervals and do it your way in between.

A complete waste, service interval is 20KM

If you do not track your car than I agree but if you do you should read up on bore scoring prevention