9th Gen Civic Si | Clutch Masters Fx400 Clutch Install 

It’s only rough the first time, if I had to do it again, I could do it in probably half the time, because I figured out where to save time. Plus taking down the oil pan took extra time too

Trust me, if push comes to shove I’ll go rent a lift. I don’t plan on laying In the driveway anymore

Fun times 😹

Just gather all the right tools, and make sure you can get the cv axles out the way.

@@JustPhilTv21 I’ll have my bro and my homie from work come help. 3 heads better than 1

You are absolutely right, wish I had thought about it at the time 😂 and yes I love the acuity bushings. I am thinking about getting the skunk2 factory style short shifter next. And I have lowering springs sitting in the cart along with a few other bits

@@JustPhilTv21 nice man! One step at a time… I just picked up a ‘12 Si coupe a few months ago and it needs a little love in some areas so I try to do as much as I can myself too and then usually like suspension stuff I always send to a shop cuz I don’t like doing that type work on the ground but yea man I really love this car and I can’t wait to do a clutch and flywheel I think it’s really going to change the car

an aftermarket clutch is night and day for this car

Preciate it. man. Hopefully soon I’ll have the next one out

Get the 400, the numbers are roughly the torque rating but they can exceed that spec rating, especially if you get the heavy duty pressure plate.

To be specific, the fx400 is rated for 500ft/lb torque

@@JustPhilTv21 thanks for the reply will do !!!

Thanks, and I’ll be sure to keep that in mind for the upcoming videos

I’ve put probably about 20k miles on it. It’s been fine

Since the axle was seized, I removed the knuckle from the lower control arm and just pried it out. But honestly the best thing to do is get a hub puller and press the axle out. I didn’t have one at the time, I bought one later when I had to replace the wheel bearings

@@JustPhilTv21 Ok cool bet thank you bro

It’s not particularly difficult if you have a lift and the right tools. just don’t skip any steps. I made it harder on myself by not pulling my cv axles out of the way, but they were seized to the hub at the time. For best access just drop the entire subframe and steering all together. Once everything is fully disconnected and out of the way it’s just a matter of lowering the engine for clearance and pulling the transmission off. Make sure you have the proper grease for the throw out bearing. And go ahead and get an aftermarket master/slave. also be aware that if you are not using a factory weight dual mass, you will need to tune the car, they cannot use a lightweight flywheel without one.

@@JustPhilTv21 thanks. I picked up an oem throw out bearing and the hybrid racing em1 cmc and slave. When you say lowering the engine what mounts have to come off? All of them? I have the hasport rear, hasport upper torque mount with an upgraded transmission mount as well. Could you lower the engine with just the rear mount and transmission mount? or do all all of them have to come off? Thank you for your time, and does the oil pan HAVE to come off? I’ve seen videos where it’s not necessary

I also have hondata, I’m pretty sure the misfire detection has to be turnt off. I may be wrong though. I am tuned, but other than that I appreciate the detailed response

The only mounts that need to come off are the rear and trans mount, and by lower I meant you tilt the motor because it will drop with those out. And no, I only pulled the oil pan because it had a leak already.

Yea it’s holding up, but I should probably upgrade it. Tbh my lsd is cooked, the extra clamp force wore it out even more than it already was. Eventually I’ll get a built transmission, and rebuild the motor for boost. But that won’t be for some time. I’m working on getting another car and getting out of debt.

@@JustPhilTv21 by the way, you super impressive doing it on the ground. I get doing like '90s hatch transmission on the ground but doing the k24 trans on the ground dropping the cradle that takes a lot of freaking grit.

Thanks man. The first time is always the hardest but if I had to do it again, I could probably knock it out in a day or 2. Definitely wouldn’t do it in the middle of summer, but at the time I really needed transportation.

Previous owner did a muffler delete, from what I can see it still has the resonator; because it’s quiet unless I’m on throttle. I’ve thought about exhaust options but I’m not sure if I want to stay N/A or go boost.

It’s a new belt, just got rust marks from sitting for 6 months

It sounds like you need an adjustment, also too did you grease your throw out bearing when you installed it ?

I’m still on stock cmc other than the modding the Slave cyl, i occasionally grind but I believe it’s a synchro issue from previous damage when my car still had the stock setup.

@@JustPhilTv21 I'm assuming the shop that installed it did grease the t.o. bearing. He has does aftermarket clutches before. Hard to find that sweet spot, I've been adjusting little by little, it's getting better. Thanks for your reply!

I've got a 2015si with the throw out going as well. The car is stock, I don't want any overkill, any suggestions on a clutch similar to the oem? Thanks

Fx250 full face, or exedy stage 2

Yep, exactly the same. Only difference is my battery is already out of the way because it’s in the trunk

I bought a stock weight flywheel so I wouldn’t have to flash the ecu. It works out of the box. They do have different versions so if you can’t find the right one, just call them

There’s no drainage where I live man.

The feel is slightly stiffer than stock but a lot of that has to do with the fact that I did the slave cylinder mod, it would have been best if I did the mod or gotten a modified/upgraded master too, but I didn’t want to go through the hassle of getting it out. Although, in heavy traffic it can be a pain. It doesn’t like to slip for a long period of time. You have to get the revs up a bit more to get it going smoothly

Not by much, I would suggest getting a larger diameter master and buy a new aftermarket slave

It takes planning, definitely on the advanced side. Best if you have a car lift to do this job.

I followed directions off the forums to figure it out

I didn’t. I took mine off with a 12 point socket and an impact

It won't spin, not unless you remove the sparkplug and probably the serpentine belt, too. The engine compression is enough to prevent it from spinning. If you can, either the piston rings and/or valve guides are shot needing replacement.

It’s probably your throw out bearing like mine. I did this at 125k

@@JustPhilTv21 I’m hating myself right now. I had a 2019 fiesta with 72 k miles. Got the Si with 90k thinking it would be fun. I traded the fiesta in and paid cash for the difference in the loan (they gave me $12k for it but I still owed $15k), and I bought the Si for $15.9k. Ended up forking over $20k cash (cashiers check). Sucks to have to deal with this now 😔

Good lord, that was a robbery. I mean I got knocked over the head for mine too 10k with 17% interest (was in a bad situation at the time ) but that is rediculous

@@JustPhilTv21 car prices here right now Are high for everything. It’s pretty crazy. I paid $18.4K for the fiesta new but I took $4k negative from my trade in so financed closer to $23k. The dealer listed my 3 year old fiesta SE with 72k miles for $17,999.

Pure insanity, at this rate I could fix the body work on mine and probably get back what I paid.

Man I gotta make my follow up video soon, I love driving this kit, it definitely woke up the car. Even in stock form. It’s an agressive clutch but it still can be slipped just enough to drive on the street. You definitely gotta shift it like you mean it 😂😂

@@JustPhilTv21 how’s the clutch feeling still I’m thinking of using the same one

Slightly stiffer than stock. It engages very direct, but that’s also because I took the damper out of the slave.

I’ve put on about 20k miles since the swap, no issues, still bites hard like new

@@JustPhilTv21looking to get this for my 10th gen si but I’m heading a lot of negative feedback ppl saying that 30k miles clutch starts slipping is this true

I do but I’m not active on there. I’ll respond here or you can email me t3chl1f3@gmail.com

I had a jack holding the engine up and the top engine mount was still attached

I do but I plan on creating a seperate one for this channel. More content to come hopefully soon.