mine went from 27 to 30 PSI and from then on out it never increased even after continuing to add more. Idk if it was incorrect or somehow not refilling.
Great product! I was apprehensive about doing this myself but it was so simple and now I have really cold air in the car! The auto shop wanted $140 and 3 hours of my time. I did it in 10 minutes for $60.
The ports in the video have what's called a dust cap on them. This cap serves the same purpose as the one you've probably seen on a tire's valve stem. It would have definitely been on there when the vehicle was new, but may have been taken off and not replaced at some point in time. We do sell replacements at your local auto parts store.
Hey guys Chris fix here lol anyway I just did this to my suv the digital gauge was jumping all over the place it would go low as 16 psi then shoot up to 41 psi but what I seem to notice is when I kept filling the system the psi would move slightly higher than at some point I noticed my A/C compressor would kick on and off but and I kept filling the system the A/C compressor kick on and stayed on once that happened the psi stayed consistent and I was able to get a good read to the tune of 20 psi kept filling her up to the top now it’s Alaska I’ll keep you guys posted
Hi, I have the same problem. Did you read the low psi or the high psi? The high for mine goes up to 49 psi and than it goes down to 16psi. But still no cold air ..
My pressure was 26psi. On the low end of the green. I added some but only got to 30psi. It would not go up from there no matter how many times I added refrigerant. Air is maybe a little cooler but not cold like I was hoping. Leak?
My digital display is reading a psi of 90+ when NOT connected. I’m wondering if this is a defect on the display. I seem to not be getting a good psi reading. Shouldn’t the psi reading read 0 if not attached to anything ?
No, the hose holds pressure even when disconnected since there's the check valve on the end. If you pull the trigger to release pressure after it's been disconnected from the can and system the pressure reading will go down.
@@Acprocold Finally. I did not pull the trigger on the guage. I haven't attached it to the can yet. Just checking the PSI first. That explains why it was at 100 psi when i hooked it up. This time ill press the trigger before attaching it.
No, I would say most likely not related. The refrigerant system is a closed system. Even if you had a leak in your evaporator, which usually sit closest to the cabin, a leak big enough to make a hissing sound wouldn't last long before your system lost all refrigerant.
Question: after charging my AC using your product AC was cold. A day after I had the car running on idle with AC on and compressor was purging with white smoke. AC still blowing cold after. What could cause this?
My pressure reading was 24 added about half a can and pressure never changed. Went ahead and added the rest of the can pressure still reading 24. Is that normal?
How do you know that you had half a can left? Perhaps the can is empty and that's why the gauge reading isn't changing. The pressure on mine went up from 27 to 36 p.s.i. when I was charging it and then suddenly stopped, so I am assuming that the can is empty (hopefully not a leak in the system).
Compressor goes off and on could not get read out. Starting filling when compressor on it was at 25-30. When off it would read 75 which is above red zone. Compressor still intermittent while charging. Is 75 bad news Help. Thanks Update. Watched video again. It worked ice cold!
Yes, you can. We have an A/C Pro High Mileage refill can with stop leak. www.acprocold.com/product/acp-307v-high-mileage-r-134a-a-c-recharge-with-uv-dye-12oz/
Not necesssarily doing anything wrong. Warmer temperatures increases the pressure in the system and depending on the system design there may be a higher set pressure in your vehicle.
You need to read the pressure when the it's cycling. You can hear the compressor cycling on many vehicles. It will click to engage. If you read the pressure when the compressor is not on it may give you a high pressure reading. The compressor pressurizes the gas in your system as it pushed it to the high side. It will pull gas in from the low side where you're reading pressure from as it does this. More than you need to know., but that's what's going on.
The gauge will read the pressure of what it's connected to. If it's connected to the system it will read that pressure. If it's just connected to the can, it will read the can pressure. If it's not connected to either of those if will read the pressure of the gas in the hose. The hose has a check valve that will hold gas in the hose.
How does this gauge work with different temperature ranges while filling. I know you can adjust an analog gauge depending on temperature. Should I be concerned that this doesn’t have that feature if I’m filling up in certain temperatures outside?
This gauge works exactly the same as an analog gauge with regards to pressure. Just uses a digital pressure transducer instead of a Bourdon tube in an analog gauge. If you need a guide on how to adjust the pressure to account for outside ambient temp, please refer to this chart. www.acprocold.com/faq/r-134a-system-pressure-chart/
There are many reasons other than low refrigerant that may be causing warm air to blow from vents. That's why we recommend just checking the pressure first to make sure you're low before adding so you can return the product if you don't need.
The pressure reading may bounce up and down due to the compressor cycling. Take the pressure reading when the compressor is on. There videos will help. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XAlw_aoaPF8.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ldNPhoIpN6c.html
On one of your other videos or web pages, you said you need to adjust the fill based upon ambient temp and the guage turned to adjust. But this video seems to imply that adjustment for ambient isn't required. Did something change?
Pressure in the system does change based on outside ambient temperature (i.e. higher temps = higher pressure), but we removed that from our gauges many years ago because it was a confusing concept for consumers to understand.
@@Acprocold Thanks. Some of the photos online of your products still show that gauge even in the same listing that shows it not having that gauge. What is the expected accuracy of the built in guage? +/_ 5 psi, for example? I ordered a can last night, so I'll figure it out either way. Thanks again.
@paultparker - there are two potential reasons the gauge might not be fitting on your vehicle - you bought a can with 134a inside and your system takes a new environmentally-friendly refrigerant called 1234yf. 1234yf has fittings that are different from 134a (by regulation). Or you are are trying to attach the gauge to the high side port. Look for a sticker underneath your hood that lists the refrigerant type and make sure you are using that same type. Our port finder tool can help you find the right port to connect to. www.acprocold.com/a-c-port-finder/
The actual problem was just pulling out the battery tab before the gauge could come on. I didn't notice that and finally found it deep in the comments on the video. Might consider mentioning in the app.
Yes, this can happen as the compressor cycles on and off. You should take the reading when the compressor cycles on, which will typically be the low pressure reading.
Have you pulled out the plastic tab? Also, try pulling out the battery receptacle from the housing and push it back in to make sure it's seated properly.
"We simply attach the quick connect coupler to the low side pressure port by pushing to snap it on. The coupler will click once it's secure." Uh, nope. Won't connect. Tried several of my cars.
If it doesn't easily connect you may have one of two issues 1) you have found the high side port and not the low side port. They look similar, but are not compatible 2) you have a vehicle with 1234yf and are trying to use a product containing 134a. 1234yf vehicles have low side ports that are unique (by law) to make sure the proper refrigerant is used to recharge. Look for a sticker under the hood to help you determine which refrigerant you have.
My Psi goes from 40, down to 19 then back to 40 every 10 seconds or so. I noticed the compressor rotates then stops and rotates again every 10 seconds as well. What does this mean ?
This is typical for many systems. The compressor will cycle on and off as needed. You should take the pressure reading whent the compressor is engaged.
That's correct. If your engine is on with the A/C on max cool and fans on high and you are getting a high pressure reading when the compressor is engaged, you need to take it to a licensed technician.
The gauge can't read pressure from your system when you're squeezing the trigger (charging your system). To read the pressure of the system, you must release the trigger to check. Continue this process until you're in the green with cold air blowing from the vents.
The pressure on the gauge may fluctuate as the compressor turns on and off. Read the pressure when the clutch engages. When the clutch engages the pressure will go down.
If your vehicle is on, A/C on max cool, the compressor clutch is engaged (hear a humming sound), and the pressure reading is high we suggest you return the product if you haven't used any refrigerant and see a professional technician. You may have an issue unrelated to low refrigerant.
If your engine is on, A/C on max cool, and the compressor clutch is engaged when you take the pressure reading and the PSI is 151, you probably have an issue besides low refrigerant so we recommend you have a professional technician take a look.
The digital gauge does give the actual pressure reading. The digital pressure transducer that takes the reading is actual more accurate than the Bourdon tube in an analog gauge.
Is your engine on with the A/C turned on max cool with the fans on high? If so and you're still getting a high pressure reading, take the product back to the store and get a refund without using. You most likely have another issue besides low refrigerant causing your issue.
@@Acprocold it was on full blast but I found that the A/C clutch relay fuse is blown out. I put a new one on and it was working just fine but then it blew again after 10 mins of driving. I’m thinking the coil in the compressor is messed up? I don’t have a voltmeter otherwise I’d check that connection .. got any tips ?
Actually, the gauge has a check valve in it by law that will hold refrigerant in the hose therefore the gauge is reading that pressure. If you squeeze the trigger to release the pressure from the hose it will move to zero.
Even when it's not connected to the can the check valve in the hose will hold gas in the hose so the gauge will read that pressure. If you squeeze the trigger to release the gas from the hose, the pressure reading will go down. It's a requirement to have the check valve in the hose due to the length.
The digital readings will be off if its not completely plugged in, it was saying mine was 90 and i would squeese the trigfer and it wouldnt change much, and then i realised the plug wasnt completey in, it goes really far into the thing that sticks out of your car, you will def see/ hear a snap and when you pull the trigger it should make an audible sound. Strangly though even after i got it snapped on and squeezed the trigger till i got cold air the psi reading stayed at 0 X'D this thing is NOT fool proof but you can make it work