Not my usual type video but a few of my basic video clips. Not meant as a tutorial just Showing some information a few asked for. Don’t attempt anything you are not comfortable with. All woodturners are responsible for their own safety
Very useful Steve. You've definitely been the "strong silent turner" up until recently and yet your skew technique is almost certainly the best I've ever seen (been turning myself for 25 years and am an active member of a club which has had hundreds of pro turners visiting so that's saying something!!) What pro turners always have in common is an efficiency and economy of moves because time is money and they cant waste it. It's an absolute joy to watch and when you add the personal education with advice behind your techniques it gives us enthusiastic mortals much more colour and more information to help develop. So my thanks and if time permits, I for one would fully endorse you posting more like this. Whether you realise it or not, you're one of the best spindle turners out there. Your face grain work is pretty dam good too 🙂. Keep it up and please keep posting. Thanks.
We've learned so much by watching all your videos, Steve, and your comments make it all better. Thanks for all your contributions to the turning world, and thanks for the subs that help us hard of hearing folks. Salute!
I have perfected the art of the catch, but your comment about sharp tips... most of my catches start at the end of the exercise, so that makes perfect sense. MORE sharpening. Thankyou.
Please make more of this kind of video! Most woodturners are hobbyists and there's nothing wrong with that. Many make good stuff. But ... the techniques of a professional with decades of all day, every day experience under his belt is something else. So please share, because 'monkey see, monkey do' and that's how I learnt everything I know :-)
Absolutely loved this direction Steve, added it to my collection of "rewatch these for the basics" videos. Thank you! And yes, more of this would be fantastic!
This is exactly the sort of stuff I need. I've been using the skew flat against the rest with height (about 11 o'clock as in the vid) and angle adjusted to give me around 45 degrees cutting angle (edge to the wood about 1/3 of the way up from the short side of the edge) and I'm getting good results for a noob tuner I think, nice and smooth anyway. But I will have to try lifting the longer side of the skew while keeping the bevel in contact. I'd not realised that this was what was happening in your vids but now I look back at them I can see it clearly. Thank you.
Thank you for passing on your knowledge! As a beginning woodworker and turner, I've watched many of your videos learning how to develop my technique. as a visual learner, I always walk away with something valuable, but this demonstration with explanation is great! Also, thank you for showing me why I'm getting so much tear out in pine! (and how to fix it!)
Beautifully explained. The height of the cut definitely escaped me for a while because of the camera angles. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, it has meant a great deal to me and improved my turning no end.
I love watching all your videos especially the tutorials. The detail when showing the technics you use is so helpful. I really like the skew and when I get it right, the finish is so rewarding. Thanks Steve for your time. Dave
Love your work! Thank you for your inspiration! On a sidenote, a year or so ago, after watching many times over, each video you provided, I watched someone else turn with the skew. They had a catch, and made the comment, well I’m not Steve Jones… had to laugh, felt like being caught cheating, like you somehow knew I was watching someone else… Happy new year!
Thanks Steve, not been turning too long and everyone says the shew is the hardest tool to learn, but I am inspired to learn how having seen and heard the direction you have given
Thanks for the video. Just had my second practice this evening on a lathe I bought. Its definitely a great way to focus and forget the rest of the world. The points on the lathe are about a cm off however so it's not ideal for a beginner
Thanks it’s definitely therapeutic. The points being off are not to bad for spindle work but if using it for support on bowls or faceplate work it will be a problem.
I can vouch that Ashley Isles tools are first quality. One of the key things with a skew is that it must be sharp, then they're lovely tools to work with. Thanks for posting.
Thank You! I told a prominent RU-vidr that if he wanted to see someone use a skew that he could watch you. He said that was an old video and he didn’t need it. Yea he does!
Thanks for breaking into a bit of instruction. I need all the advice I can get with the skew, I seem to get quite a few catches when doing a bead, straight turning is OK though, I think I occasionally lose concentration and seem to get the point caught but it happens so quick I can't be sure. Great video and very helpful, appreciate the effort you put in.
Prior to watching this I thought pine was useless for turning anything fancy (or like... anything). The difference you demonstrated between scraping and cutting was a game changer. I have abundant stock of fir and thinking maybe I could use it on the lathe too. The thing is that if the wood is somewhat porous you cannot help poor cuts with sanding, the pores remain unless a filler is used. The only way is to make a planing cut that presses the fibers neatly and tightly to a clean finish. Thanks for the tips! ❤
An excellent video, well explained on the correct techniques to turn wood. A demonstration of doing coves with the chisel would be appreciated, and yes I know, coves should be done with either a detail gouge or spindle gouge in reality as it is faster and leaves a superior finish.
You did have some already posted on your channel but the distance was too far away, perhaps a close up like you have done with the bead demonstrations would be great.
Very enjoyable, and helpful. Though I turn mostly with carbide, I'm thinking I need at least a skew for cutting a clean pommel on spindles, which I just cannot figure out how to do with the carbide without awful tearout.
Thank you Steve for your time and willingness to share. Can't wait for more. Watching the video again today but this time it doesn't have transcript or captions. I was going to ask you about particular moment- about the second method of bead cut. The caption said something like "the edge of the chisel mustn't be sharp, or you are inviting a catch " . I can't hear well enough on the video whether it is must or mustn't?
Thank you Steve. May I ask what is the proper length for the handle and how critical is it. The skew and bedan are probably the two most difficult tools to master.
Thank you so much for the explanation. You and Alan Batty are my skew hero’s (mentors). I have repeatedly watched your videos to analyze your technics. In Allan’s video he talks highly about Bill Jones. Are you related? Now if I could only figure out how to get rid of the spiral on my long spindles... even with a steady rest. 😁 Watching your videos have been a tremendous help. Thank you!
Thank you, Bill is no relation but I knew of him. His ivory work was superb. The spiral is from vibration. If you are using a steady rest make sure you don’t over tighten the tailstock and have your tool rest above center and work high on the workpiece. Also don’t have the RPM to fast.
@@woodturner21 Thanks for the advice. I will give it a try. I was wondering if the vibration could be from turning wet wood versus dry wood, or if turning spindles with knots in them would cause the spirals.
@@woodturner21 Thanks! I appreciate your help and quick response. I hope to “turn” your advice into a smooth spindle. I look forward to your future videos. They are inspirational!
Why have i never heard anyone recommend resting the skew flat on the tool rest before? Going to try this. I've essentially been afraid to use the she's and have been gravitating to a bowl gouge as you demonstrate where i can.
Complete beginner here, I’ve been worrying about using a skew due to the dreaded catches, your excellent video inspires me to buy one and practice practice practice with it. What size skew would you recommend for a beginner? I was thinking 3/4”. Thank you.
A 3/4” or 1”. The bigger size is actually easier to handle on most jobs as it’s got a bigger cutting area. On very small work 3/4” would be slightly more suitable.
Yet another great video from the skew expert. 👍 Any suggestions on handle length relative to skew blade length please? I've made my handle & am concerned it's too long and restricting movement, but I don't want to make it too short.
Yes you can use it on wet or dry wood. It’s generally for spindles only though so normally dry wood. A longer handle in my opinion gives you better control but it’s personal choice.
Thank you! The skew is hard to learn. I think most of the problem is not being confident. I can do it with a 10mm parting tool but move to a skew and it goes pear shaped. Same tool use in principle as I use the parting tool like a skew. A mental block or are they different?
The principles are the same but the feel is different. Relax and cut low on the cutting edge. If you can use a parting tool like a skew there’s no reason you can’t use a skew.
@@woodturner21 thank you, that’s my thinking too. I might try a narrow skew and step up the width of the skew as confidence grows. Thank you for taking the time to share your skills and help us to learn. Happy New Year 🤓
@@leewells1871 I was just saying to Steve that I bought a 1" round cornered skew on his advice a few years back. This skew made the learning curve much simpler. For my experience, the 1" skew seems to be much easier to control than the 3/4" skew. And the round cornered shank helps also.
Just watched you make a honey dipper on Instagram it shows a lot of different skew techniques thanks - you make it look so easy! I’ve had conflicting advice in bevel angles though, what’s your preference?
Is the wood you are using in the demonstration green / wet? Should we expect continuous ribbon-like shavings like you get here in dried wood? My shavings are more fragmented and dusty, so I'm wondering if it is my technique or if it is the material. Thank you for the excellent demonstration.
Hi the wood is kiln dried as is every post I make. I never use green wood. Some woods you can’t get ribbons such as Wenge etc but any close grain wood you can get ribbons on dry timber.
@@woodturner21 Can't tell you how much I appreciate your reply. Knowing what things should look like is half the battle. My bet is that I am too hesitant and need an appropriately more aggressive combination of depth of cut, pressure, and feed. I need to practice until it looks like yours since I'm just using poplar, maple, pine, and walnut, maybe some oak. Thanks again.
@@woodturner21 You mention never using green wood. I've some interest in learning to turn chairs of various forms, but the info I encounter make it seem that this must be done with green wood so that the joints will tighten as the wood dries. Some will even dry the portion that is to have a tenon turned into it and bore the mortise into green. Do you know- is all of this necessary? Or can reliable, lasting chairs be made directly from kiln dried wood? I've encountered many weak spindle chairs, some falling to pieces, so I've assumed the "green guys" were right, but maybe the poor chairs I saw weren't made right (or were older than I thought).
I’m no expert on chair making but know the old Windsor chairs were always made with wet wood and Bodgers turned them on pole lathes. Some Windsor chair makers use wet wood However I don’t know of any production chair makers using wet wood so am confident you can make chairs with dry wood.
I sharpen totally freehand so don’t think my sharpening videos will help much. I have one on my Facebook page if it’s something you want to see. facebook.com/TheWoodturners/videos/660464878243439/
No clue who said it, but from an unknown skew master, "the bevel should rub the wood, but the wood should not know it." I am getting better, but need to turn several thousand more spindles...
This is undermined and let down by incredibly frustrating terminology for the beginner (who would likely be watching a 'basics' vid). Like "the leading edge of the skew is the only part of the skew touching the tool rest". So the edge (as in cutting edge, as in most fore [leading]) touches the tool rest? Or, "beceause the front edge is the only part of the skew that's actually touching the tool rest, we want to be cutting low down on the cutting edge". How are these two things related? It's not obvious. Which is the "front edge"? And what does it mean to be cutting "low down" on it (with it?)? Means lift the handle so it drops on (into) the workpiece right? Someone with zero background needs to be told or ideally shown the reason for something to need to be a certain way. For instance, WHY does the straighter angle of approach lead to snatches more than a more oblique approach? Is it because the cutting edge acts like a rudder and forces the path of the skew out of coontrol? Or because the tip is closer to the workpiece? One needs to know this to know what to be watching for. More, i would say, than knowing things like various beading techniques.
