A little more information on Noisy Volvo Penta Fuel Pumps 

Hi Gustavo, Thanks for watching. I hope to have time to get more videos out in the spring. Enjoy your new boat.

Thank you, we appreciate you watching them and taking the time to leave great comments.

@@CanadaWideMarine I wanted to get your thoughts on engine oil for my Volvo Penta 5.7 Gi. The manual states SAE 30 and the local dealer recommends 10W 40. I've also seen some people use 15W-40. The engine usually only runs in temps. above 15 degrees Celsius.

@@4-Runner If you brought the boat to our shop it would get SAE 30, as that is what the manufacturer recommends. Switching to a multi grade will get the oil flowing faster when the engine is cold. Once it warms up you will effectively have whatever grade the second number is. So, a 10w-40 will actually be a little thinner on cold startup than a SAE 30, but once it warms up to operating temperature the 10w-40 will be a little thicker. If it is an old engine with plenty of hours on it, (read a little looser in the clearances) then a 40 will be just fine. If it is a newer engine, low hours, a little tighter on the clearances, you are putting extra load on your oil pump and distributer drive. Not to mention heavier oil is harder for the oil rings to scrape. In my experience I have never seen any performance improvement or longevity improvement from different grades of oils from what the manufacturer recommends. BUT, clean oil is extremely important, change your oil every year regardless of hours used or every 100 hours maximum. many new boat engine manufacturers are now calling for 50 hour change intervals. The oil after 100 hours is pretty beat up.

@@CanadaWideMarine Thanks so much for the response. This helps! The engine has 250 hours on it, which I think is pretty low. for a 2007. The volvo-penta dealers in Ontario don't seem to stock SAE 30, but I've read some people use the Valvoline VR1 SAE 30 with no issues.

@havarh do you or anyone else know if that e-clip applies to the 4.3gxi as well? Or is it for the 5.0 motors only?

You're welcome, and thank you for watching.

I just blow the air across the screen to remove the visible debris.

For me, it would depend on access mostly. If I have easy access and don't have to have myself jammed up against a hot engine, I would try it with a hot engine. But the truth is, in my experience the spark plug seizes on the taper so hot or cold doesn't make much difference. Hot engine will help on sticky threads, once the seal of the taper is broken though. I always grease the threads, and a wipe of grease on the taper seal as well when installing new spark plugs. Hope it goes well for you.

@@CanadaWideMarine Thanks so much for the quick response! Access is pretty good. Do you ever spray with PB Blaster to help break the seal? Also, would a bit of anti-seize on the taper of the new plugs be a good option?

@@4-Runner PB Blaster will not penetrate the tapered seat until you have actually broken the plug loose a little bit, then it will help lubricate the threads if they are tight. You can use anti-seize if you like. I pretty much never use it. I little side note on anti seize in a marine environment: Anti seize has metal in it, usually copper, which is highly active in an electrolysis situation. Basically any moisture and dissimilar metals and you get galvanic corrosion. It is really bad in salt water as salt water is a better conductor. So I just don't use it. And besides, it's messy.

We never do that here. Spring comission is an extension of our winterizing process, which includes an oil and filter change, so we know the oil is fresh and the oil filter is full of oil for our spring startup. we also fog the cylinders in the fall so they are still lubricated in the spring.

My Guess is you had an air leak in the fuel supply line which got repaired when the anti siphon valve was added.

@@CanadaWideMarine thanks

The rpm goes "up" when this happens? If the rpm was going down when this happens I might suggest it is entering "limp home mode" from possible overheat or low oil pressure. But I don't understand what you mean by rpm going up at the same time it is choking out or running out of fuel.

@@CanadaWideMarine I have a video of it if I’m able to send that to you. It’s almost like it’s running out of gas that’s when it’s trying to stall and RPMs go down and up. I appreciate the help!

@@user-si5kh7zy2l you can simply post your video on RU-vid and send me the link to it. Was the fuel pressure tested while this problem was actually happening?

@@CanadaWideMarine I was able to post earlier with what it’s doing..if you turn sound up you can hear it too. Thanks again! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gCnvksaL9lo.html

First thing I would do is check fuel pressure while the engine is hunting like that. It sounds to me like fuel pressure is dropping off in the fuel rail. Check low pressure to confirm low pressure pump is working. The engine will run without the low pressure pump, but the high pressure pump does not draw from the tank very well past the low pressure pump.