Very interesting. I bought an ECOAIR dehumidifier 7 years ago and earlier this week it stopped, indicated that the filter needed to be cleaned. I did that and it worked fine for a few days but now has stopped producing any water. Your excellent video has explained the principles of operation and I will now investigate what the problem is. A quick check with ECOAIR showed it is probably uneconomic to return it to the factory for repair. Thank you for posting.
Check the heating element and the rotation. I find it very useful to observe a power meter connected in series with the main supply. You can deduce a lot from the readings. These things have a convoluted start up procedure which leads to issues with deductive debugging. You have to wait a while until they stabilise and start working in dehumidify mode. The same during shut down and if you power ff when shutting down when you power up it completes the shut down procedure and then does the start up procedure.
Thanks. These dehumidifiers are really good but a couple of succumb to mechanical wear. It is not expensive to address the issues and when done they go on and on. They have excellent electronics too.
Great video, not many people are aware of existence of dessicant humidifiers. I learned about them last year when a friend of mine was looking for low cost solution for his damp appartement
The key feature is that they work very well are good at low temperature where as e a refrigeration based dehumidifier doesn't work at all at 4 deg C. I have one in my workshop set to auto. In cold weather it still works. The shop is unheated but no rusty tools and warms up quick because it isn't damp in there. I also use it to dry out the summer house when the door jams when is expands when damp. A couple of days and the door is fine again.
As you noted, the desiccant type of dehumdifier works better in low temperature environemts than the more popular compressor type. We have one of each type; one was bought for our garage and the other for an unoccupied house we are selling. Before setting them up in their respective locations I ran each in our garage over a four week period, two weeks on the compressor type and the other two weeks on the desicant type, with an average of 10 deg C air temperature over that period. The desicant type recovered about double the moisture of the compressor type over the two week period. The only downside is the quoted energy usage of the desiccant type is higher and the purchase cost was higher.
Exactly. I have a humidity meter in my workshop. I find the desiccant one does not have such good humidity control as the Samsung compressor type. When set to about 25% on the dial the Samsung brings it down to about 70% and cuts out and fires up the fan now and then to monitor the humidity. I found that in a reasonable insulated building a blast of heat for an hour with a 1.8Kw fan heater for half an hour a day greatly increased the yield of the Samsung. I have a power meter in the socket for the dehumidifier. In cold weather, in my my workshop, this arrangement uses about half the power than running the desiccant type 24/7. Clearly it would be no good in a cold uneatable space.
Note at time 7.47 I think you can see the black wires inline thermal fuse in your unit and possibly the white wires are a NTC thermistor I am just trying to fix a different model A Meaco DD8L it was working for years and then a red light error, unplug and it was working the following day DEAD, After ordering the wrong rating for a part (online suggestion - I should have stiped it first) What I ordered was a thermal fuse SF96E - 100 'C what I should have got for mine was TWO SF133E in my unit they are in series 133 'c Pulled it apart today Thermal fuses are OK so do not need replacing NTC Thermistor has some water damage but seems OK Tested both synchronous small motors ok I do not think it is the main fan capacitor start motor. Assembled it and plugged it in and the red light came on briefly and now nothing, will continue investigation until I scrap it. I am not asking you to help me, I just thought I would add a comment. All the best
Could be the controller and sometimes they have a gravity switch to kill it if it gets knocked over. There are other more detailed videos on this model on the channel. Check the main dropper capacitor in the power supply if there is one. See Delonghi video on this channel.
@@razenby I will have a look at your other videos I do have power to the PCB and have 12v and 5v test points This model has a hall effect tank full cut out the float is a nasty piece of polystyrene with rusting magnet I will have another go at a later date ? Clip together case with a total of 14 screws ? over kill. For the membrane keyboard I just cut neat holes to get to the 4 screws, for no good reason, they could have found a better way. Some where I found on the WWW quite a bit of info, I just need to find where I saved it ;-) I bought the Meaco from Maplin long before they closed down, shame they went. The Meaco was faulty when I got it, when running on low fan settings, it would shut down after a short while with a red light, in one of the online documents it said from new run it for a day / hours on high speed. I guess the synchronous motors were stiff with grease causing a over heat sensor to trigger. As you know the dust filter is useless. I think the boult in negative Ioniser makes it worse, I only used it once. Yep the extra HEAT is good at drying washing and with the hot air method of the Desiccant it helps dry the washing in the hallway. Lucky for me I have a spare compressor dehumidifier only a few years old, that is back in action now, the hallway is a lot cooler. In this house we often hit 60% + on a rainy day in Wales. I have used dehumidifiers for about 28y Yep I still have the original one still working but not in use at present, it has an exposed external cold coil that creates ice, it is now retired because it is not very quiet ;-) I do not think it was ever very efficient since it would create a small iceberg before triggering a melt cycle ;-) The control circuit was very simple -just like me- no off switch only a Humidistat, and a microswitch on a float. Thanks and all the best to you If I fix it I will let you know.
@@jdhtyler the fault light on low fan setting sounds like what mine was doing. Have you cleaned both sides of the drum? I got a vid on my channel cleaning mine which solved it.
I picked up a faulty desiccant dehumidifier myself, found out that it is dead and had no power and the fuse was good, I was hoping it was just mechanical issues but it being an electrical fault… well that’s not really an area I have much knowledge in.
Ooh check the tilt switch is not faulty (cuts AC power if the unit is not standing upright) and also that the water container ins in position and that the level float is not stuck and the magnet has not dropped out. That doesn't sound very electrical. You can learn to use a continuity meter in 10 minutes so off you go and fix it!! The planet depends on you.
Thank you for posting this information. I'm just considering to buy a second hand dehumidifier which is an exactly same model as this and a current owner told me it is 6 years old (working perfectly as she says) but thought I'd check it out and found your post. It's a good to learn and be prepared - as I like this model with ioniser (without making it smell like pine tree, ha ha) or dryer mode. I don't think there are many models like this with heating function. Would be great if you cold share a bit more about bearing/parts that you replaced (exact name and size?), also if it's still working after one year from this post? Thank you again!
Yes, still working. There is another repair video for this model dealing with the disc rotating gearbox motor. The bearing I made the bearing from Nylon rod in a lathe. I am not sure if they supply new desiccant wheels for them. I have two of these units. See: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ROh_8NY1zqQ.html more information there.
@@razenby Thank you for your swift reply! Yes, I was just watching your another clip for replacing a motor. I'm not an electrician and but often disassemble to repair things where I can. Your clips are very helpful and informative. Double thumbs up from me....and subscribed! Thank you.
Blow out the dust and see how much water you get out of it. Ill have to do a comparison between a stained discolored one a a newish one on a side-by-side run. I have one that looks virtually new that I haven't repaired yet.
Hi My Eco air desiccant dehumidifier stopped working and there is no power light. My theory is its the capacitor, only because it is apparently a common fault with them. That said, would it cause the power light to not come on? Just wondered what your thoughts on that might be; thanks.
When a capacitor mains voltage dropper is used it should always be investigated because it is such a common cause of failure. Over the years it has consigned thousands of tons of cheap equipment to the land fill. Most cheap multimeters these days are able to measure capacitance so my advice is to remove the capacitor and measure its capacitance.
Thanks for posting this, as I have one of these that has stopped working, so I hope this will help me fix it, although with mine the control panel has no lights anymore and no heating seems to be happening. Looking at the PCB there is something that looks like it might be a capacitor, which looks like it may have blown or leaked, so still not sure what is wrong with mine. The heating element coil looks intact with no signs of it having blown. Any suggestions as to where I might get a new PCB?
Probably a capacitor on the controller if you have no lights. It is likely that the capacitors may be the only fault. There is one main one in a small round can that will be rated at about 10 to 15 volts that works on the low voltage side. The other is is plastic block that is the mains dropper capacitor usually around .5 to 1.0 uF 400V. This one loses capacitance. Changing both is worth a try.
@@razenby Thanks man, ya I'll take the board right out when I have the time and examine more closely to see if I can find any identification on it, it is a green cannister thing (not sure if it supposed to be green) in the left hand corner, all on it's own, next to the TEMP2 connector.
@@razenby I'm still not 100% sure if it is a capacitor, I presume it is, but there is no identifying rating remaining on it, even after removing it from the board, it is cylindrical with a central pin in the plastic base and another pin connected to the edge of the metal casing. Would this be the 10 to 15 volt one you are talking about or is that one of the regular-looking capacitors with the cross on top?
@@razenby Having removed the faulty component and scraped the cream-coloured gunk that looks like leaked out of it, in the space where it was the board has a square symbol with 4 holes in the board and the inscription S1, so, I'm presuming the cannister-like component with just the two pins is some sort of semiconductor. Is there any chance you could identify the good one one your control board for me, so I can find and order the right thing to replace it with please?
