A rebuilt rear end in the drive way and a whine from day one... 

That’s what it takes to get the perfect tolerance in a diff. I’ve built hundreds of them and my tolerance and the factory tolerance were much different. When set up correctly a diff will last a long time. I only ever had one bearing on a Dana 35 that the inner race was out of round.

you better be perfect when it comes to the ring gear and pinion

Have to be careful to wipe off the marking medium when chasing tiny amounts.

First ring & pinion I did, I took apart probably 10 times.

It has to be done these jobs hav a protocol an if not within specs it won't last long

You mean...fortunate son

Dont mess it up by smoking weed

@@guysumpthin2974 In 40 years healthcare experience, including many working life flight and trauma, I've seen lost of alcohol related problems but rarely any related to marijuana. In fact, medical organizations worldwide state alcohol is the number 1 contributor to death worldwide. Don't mess it up by doing anything stupid.

straight facts

@@Absaalookemensch smoking weed is still bad and leads to cancer exactly like cigarettes do. I've seen lives getting messed up by weed but more because of the law side

Propane sales not doing it for you anymore, Hank?

@@philgrimsey3637 My love for propane will never fade. And neither will my sales!

@James Carroll How do you know him?!

you think you need a dad in order to start something like that ? Gear box and trany and engins are the easiest things to learn on cars

@@guytremblay1647 Maybe for a stud like you. You sure are impressive.

Outstanding

Never had any trouble with that method works great

Someone there is a simple old video on y how they work. Real simple but so informative

Had one burn up in simi. Only way I noticed got hot burnt the vent tube wow. Pinion bearing must be what makes bad sound one time left air bags deflated. Think the forces at work in that rear end thank you.

Thank You. I’ll never do an overhaul on a Differential Just good information

👍

Exactly what I said when I saw the description Was Clearances and backlash wasnt set right from the rebuild

Luckily I never met most people. I was taught on stock cars, shimming and lash were the biggest part of the process. Pretty much everything else was just going through motions. Three vehicles in a row have been cases of fixing someone else’s repairs to make them right again. So a guess I buy vehicles from most people, that give up before they are actually worn out.

Would have been great if they showed us how it was set up wrong, why it was failing. Spray it down, add some gear marking compound and show us what was wrong...

@@atcmadness4351 HE TOLD YOU WHY PLUS IT WAS VERY EVIDENT none of the clearances on it was set right plus the pinion pattern wsant centered in the ring gear as it shouldve been all of which is very critical on any rear end

even if you are a master,you have a first one,you did good,reading the instructions, thats what they are for,they only go together one way,the right way,the instruction way,all ring gears in the after market sound off,even factory gears

I was thinking of attempting a 3.23 to 3.73 swap myself on my 2012 Silverado and got the same warnings. However, I've gotten warnings on other things in the past and all turned out well, so your story makes me wanna give it a go. I'm a stickler for perfection on any work I do myself. I'm still a little unnerved though, tbh. 😂

@@williamabaker12 i don't know if you're addressing me,but if you go from a hiway gear,which is what 3.23 is,its the lowest gear of the lot,they make many higher gear,s numerically lower in numbers,what i've done for over 45 years and about 5000 rear axles i've built since 1968,is lower gears 3.55 and deeper like 3.73 to 4.56,non race situation is i will always ad .003-.005 thousands to the ring gear lash between the pinion and the ring gear,they grow with heat,doesn't take to damn long either,about 20 blocks and they warm up at road speed,this also takes some of the singing of the runout on the ring gear,put a set of 3.55 gears along with a suregrip unit in my boys van,i said lets just use you old gear,they looked perfect,no he wanted to get new RICHMOND GEARS, it whined for a year,wore in a quit,we changed the oil twice,its still rolling down the road,never take gear and pinion lash beyond .010 ever,my tow cents,CHANGE THEM OILS BOYS,THOSE PARTS IN THE BACK ARE HIGH DOLLAR

@@strattuner Awesome! Thank you for you advice and expertise! Much appreciated!

I rebuilt my first small block chevy back in the 70's and only read a couple of books and talked to people who had built motors.

what he meant was "don't call us with stupid shit" lmao

@@BrendanPerez that depends if it means your getting a paycheck, or spending one.

Looks like there was some gear lube mixed in with that metal powder.

How do you clean out the axle tubes? Won't some of that metal leach back down into the fresh oil?

@@chestervaldes7551 I think that any metal that ends up back in the oil won't do much, if any, damage. First, it is small enough to stay suspended in the oil. Second, it's not like water (or other) contamination that ruins the lubricating properties of the oil. The metal itself isn't ther problem, but it says that something is wearing abnormally.

@@chestervaldes7551 It's not a terrible idea to clean things out and if you have an axle seal fail, it would be more important. But it's really not that critical, especially if the axle seals are in good shape and weren't leaking. If you're really concerned about it, you could always epoxy a couple rare earth magnets into the bottom of the case to collect any big chunks but I wouldn't be overly concerned. Last time I put an axle together, cleaning out the tubes consisted of some degreaser soaked shop rags wrapped around a broom handle. Pretend like it's a big shotgun.

It is only known to cause cancer in Kalifornia; make sure you use it elsewhere and you will be fine.

I have a shaved down magnet that i can usually get them with.

Those work great. If I'm replacing the carrier I've had luck with really badly broken ones by drilling a small hole through the carrier at the end of the pin and using a small drift punch.

Compressed air pops them right out if they're not threaded

Hey Pat! Share with us where you got that tool. I’ve fought with many. Sounds like a real time saver!

@@laytonturpin6957 a 1/ inch left hand drill bit will walk it right out .. pull the main caps and pry the carier out as far as it'' go .. the bit will try to grab the pin and spin it right out

10 vids more and would be like that: "stop giginvg us a call" ... LOL

I'm in the car business... when I retire I never want to hear a phone ring again for the rest of my life! Always happens at a critical moment of whatever you're working on too. One minute interruption is about 3 minutes downtime for the flow of the job. Then just as you get in the groove again... RIIING!

Too funny

Wireless Headsets, Multitsak, Talk and work at the same time, until you have to look something up, get a repair bill out, write up an estimate, check out a customer..... CRAP........I need an Assistant !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Acrexp M that's why I do my own repairs when ever my vehicles need it. It is good to know there is a few shops that do a great job.

So true thay how I feel when doing repairs so.e take longer than others but my end result im not coming back cause of a bad install

Right

I’ve only ever seen crush sleeves collapse in manual v8 cars. Autos don’t hit them as hard I’d guess

And dont forget to mention Breakin on new setup! Most recommend 500 easy miles and ZERO hispeed driving on those first 500 !! Then drain & change fluid.

@@karter9908 true. and no heavy towing, only exception is my race car, i run them on jack stands till they get some heat. then when im at the track i take a few laps around the pits. then its Katie bar the door, here we go.

@@karter9908 for what it’s worth a break in you usually have to do heat cycles. Gears are heat treated but the couple heat cycles help surface temper the gears. No extended drive time above like 55mph. Drive it like an old man going to church for like 15 minutes then park it for an hour or 2 to cool off. Most gear warranty’s are from improper break in which VOIDS warranty claims on the few company’s I know of..my cheap Richmond 4:10s recommend that when I rebuilt my 10 bolt, my 5k 9 inch from Strange&MWC recommended close to the same when I twisted my 10 bolt housing and sent it to the scrap yard. Lol.

@@robertweitlauf4653 racecar setups are different than street applications. And stick cars are different than auto trans cars. Roadrace are way different than most others.

Isn't the spreader for getting it in and out easier? I did a BOP 10 bolt for a Chevelle back in the 90s but I was basically just helping a master who showed me what we did. I remember the spreader but as I watch this I just thought it was for ease of getting it in and out.

is that really you in the little photo? Hubba hubba.

​@@sarahsliverman5350 no, this is my friends acct, but yes the pic is actually of her

@@stevemadak6255 Yes and no, when you bang a shim in it adds a little preload, so being able to spread the housing allows you to add a little more preload that in my opinion helps prolong the life of the bearings, and it makes pulling the carrier in and out much easier

@@stevemadak6255 Spreader is for installing shims and races with correct PRELOAD on bearings. Also can help with removal . It is essential that correct " preload" is on carrier bearings. And it takes more preload than you might think!!! Read GM FSM. TOYOTA is 125-150 ft/lbs of torque on threaded spanner preload screw. Anyway, get pinion depth correct isnt quick or easy, and then backlash & Bearing Preload..... Never use cheap china bearings!!! Find & buy Quality parts!! Built my first diff in 1966. Many since then..... learned from the best. Then learned lots more.

Exactly, needed to see the difference...

Yea I would of liked to see that as well. The Shims control side to side placement of the ring plus a small amount of preload on the bearings.

In his defense selecting shims is pretty boring and mostly trial and error

With math...

it doesnt matter how many times I watch these guys, I will never have the level of efficiency and confidence that they have. People like this dont have to worry about being obsolete.

Same here. I love watching the guys who are so good that they can give away all their secrets and most people still wouldn’t be able to replicate their results.

"Just Wondering R U guys open"?

are these guys in spring valley? i just gogoled them

Hire a secretary with smarts

@@yourmom705 Amarillo TX somewhere, close to the RR

Creepy Joe Biden Family guy would have gotten rid of Mr. Herbert but he’s just too damn funny!🤪🤪🤪

bolts break no matter who is working on it, pro or shadetree. some times the pros have different and inventive ways to remove them

And time lapse it.

They are in the business of gears not videos

Dodge?

@@pmotorsports8276 I rebuilt all of them but mostly Dodge and Jeep. Actually the Ford 9" was my favorite to rebuild.

Ford's can be set up on bench

@@pmotorsports8276 yes and you don't have to keep pulling pinion bearing off to add or subtract shims when setting pinion depth. You just take the front off and add shims there.

@@pmotorsports8276 Yup. 8-3/4

Brand-X The effects of that color causes your wallet to hemorrhage cash

You guys are hilarious 😂but True

and those things are indestructible!!!! You don’t even NEED to change the diff oil (even though you should) 🤣

@@actiniumanarchy9237 This design is so simple and easy to set-up, there's no wonder that the after-market and even NASCAR embraced the 9 inch with open arms. I'd like to get an aluminum section one day then it'll be even easier to work on. Having the removable "chunk" even allows you to have several different ratios set up and ready so that in a matter of an hour, you can have a race or street ratio installed.

@@williamcharles9480 Even less than that if you are running a floater. Then it's 20 minutes or so.

Yes indeed - my 76 Torino Elite has the 9 inch and I’ve never had it apart. Just takes all the abuse I throw at it - and it isn’t a small amount. Helluva good rear-end design, almost as good as my wife’s (wink wink).

The fact he ran a locked diff in the street is why it failed

@@stoneyswolf If you spool it you may as well weld it. I ran one welded until I couldn't take it and it was perfect when removed and I still have the rear end but went ARB in another 3rd member.

@@dirtcurt1 Exactly, there is little difference and that's why the parts started to wear off their 90 degree edges and walk around... may as well weld the thing.

I like to get both hands on them!

Personally, I'd let this guy manhandle my rear end anytime. He knows his stuff!

Yup, it takes some time. 10 bolt GM is nice and small. The last one I did was a 10.25" Ford. A lot beefier, and it takes a LOT of torque to crush the crush sleeve.

It sure does matter

They only fit one way...if you fuck up you can put the caps on and then measure. The bore will be really out of round if you have the caps swapped.

Amen! Who the hell puts a "thumb down" on this? Just some jealous know it all.

Yeah, there's an asshole in every crowd leaving thumbs down. Thanks for another great video.

The thumbs down were from the " other shop " that doesn't do good work!

The thumbs down were from people who know how to do a diff properly, the methods shown in this video are very rough and not recommended. To see the correct procedure have a look at the Dana factory video on you tube

If someone believes in Jesus, he better be on your side every day! Sounds like a kid using religious verbiage to gain an audience. Maybe, maybe not. Not judging just observing. A lot of worldly people do the same thing. They want to cry out to God during the bad times for help but ignore him during the good times.

Yeah. I believe it's backwards also.

I was told decades ago that the groove that the snap ring goes into is what determines which way to install it. Some snap ring grooves have a square edge, some have rounded edge at base of groove. You try to match the surfaces.

He installed it correctly for this application. The sharp edge should not be pushed against anything. The round edge should take the load.

@@bovineknievel410 - Exactly. Another poster found this wikipedia entry with a diagram: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circlip

I was taught that you want the flat side facing you so that the snap ring pliers get a better bite on the sharper edge and won't slip out when removing the ring. Learned something new.

That's what I was thinking? Cut it out and move on.

I was going to say the same... I got a metal chip driven at an angle to my thumb bone hitting a CV joint... had to be removed at urgent care. Grind off those mushroom heads on your chisels, and get a proper long drift punch for driving out bearing races. That lady foot is hardened, not meant for hammer blows. The pieces you see chipped out, break off and leave at incredible speed, sometimes so hot they glow as a visible spark. When one hits your skin some day, it'll go deep like a tiny bullet.

Its actually yellow grease so you can leave it on.

It isn't actually paint, just a colored THICK grease It 'dissolves' into the gear oil and disappears on first oil replacement which SHOULD be done at 20k for most rebuilds

@@russellv6234 He Just used the Mustard that came with his lunch! lol

No. He is correct.. The sharp edge of the ring will ride in the radius of the groove in the carrier as the ring is pushed outward if he installed it the other way. Sharp edge in a radius is a problem. Hope you never work on aircraft.

From an engineering perspective, what is the rationale for having a square side and a rounded side? Obviously the manufacturer specifies the square side on one side or the other. If it doesn't matter, it seems like a huge production waste of money for the clip manufacturer to take the extra step to round one side off. .

@@steved5518, in the stamping process one side of the part will have a rounded edge and the other side will have a sharp edge. These parts are usually put into a tumbler to take the sharp edges off before the heat treatment. Understand that time is money in a mass production business. It is a rare occurrence that any machining is done, mostly in aircraft or military conditions.

@@steved5518 when you stamp parts out there will always be a round and a square side to the hole

@Texassince1836 and @BruceJones thank you so much for your replies

Round side should face in and sharp side faces out.

According to Wikipedia, the orientation is determined by the direction of force on the c clip. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circlip

@@harrystone8847 - Nice link. Had no idea the channels had radiused machining. So rounded side out is correct in this case.

@@harrystone8847 Sorry for not responding sooner but been busy. You are correct, direction of force determines position. As with axles in a differential, the flat side of the clip goes to the outside, away from the axle end. It's how a mechanic would look at it.

javi lsx Most guy's don't have the patience to stick with the procedure and recheck all settings. It's picky, boring work but if the gears are going to last, don't take shortcuts or develop a "it's good enough" attitude. Driveway or shop, same procedures must be followed for success.

@@oneselmo exactly ive people at shops that dont know what they are doing also