The nodal point is not the front of the lens. It may be, but generally is not. It is easily found. (1) place camera on tripod with camera level, with the lens mounted of which you want to find the nodal point. (2) take two thin stakes (light stands from the studio maybe). (3) place the two stakes in line with the camera at a distance of each other. (4) make sure the farthest stake is hidden from view by the first and now rotate the camera with nodal slide. (5) If in rotating the camera the farthest stake remains hidden behind the first, then the camera is rotating in the nodal point, if the second stake comes into view when rotating then move the camera to fore or aft on the slide and rotate again - repeat until you are in the nodal point. Make good notes of the markings on the nodal slide, so you can set the camera/lens combination up the right way, the next time you are out and about. It helps to have a tripod quick-release (QR) that is Arca compatible. Generally, nodal slides have the Arca profile that can be held in place without any adaptation in such a QR. So I mounted an L-bracket on my camera, as mounting plate into the QR lock. The nodal slide may also has an Arca compatible QR. In this case, we can slide the nodal rail in the Arca QR of the tripod head. And adjust the camera by sliding the L-bracket left/right. Note the centre markers on the camera that indicate the middle of the sensor. One thing is imperative in this all: to be able to level the top plate where we mount the camera as easily as possible. I had this lightweight ballhead (Manfrotto, magnesium) that I really liked to work with. But it had a proprietary Manfrotto QR. When I bought my 3D panorama kit (that allows you to get the camera/lens into the nodal point in all axes, and then rotate, I also bought a small plate that offers 360 degrees rotation. It is screw mounted to the stud of the Manfrotto head (from which I removed the QR) and incidentally the screw had the right thread sized. Now this ballhead has panorama rotation on the top and Arca QR in one go. Works like a breeze for single row pano shots. If you also shoot movie with this camera you can now find the nodal point of, then I would consider a separate levelling plate under the head. If in movie you want to level the centre column then I would buy a tripod with a half bowl mounted centre column. Talk about movie, if you "pan" in the nodal point during movie shots, then there is less visual disturbance in the foreground. The nodal point is where geometrically the lens rotates or inverts the image. In the case of a classical "double Gaussian" lens design, I would expect the nodal point to be in the middle of the design (where diaphragm/aperture and leaf shutter are). Some lenses however make complex optical conversions (as corrections) and may have the nodal point in front of the lens (outside the actual thing) - think retrofocus designs. As today's lenses have many more elements than possible in the past and do different things with the extras, I would verify that the nodal point of a zoom lens that has zero focus breathing and internal focusing, will have the nodal point in the same place at different focusing distances and different focal lengths. When you focus at infinity, you lens has the focal length as indicated, closer by the actual focal length number gets higher (this is kn own as focus breathing). "Cine" lenses compensate that with a marginal zoom to compensate for the focus distance change and thus retain constant image angle. The problem with panorama shots is the mismatch in the foreground if you rotated the camera/lens combination away from the nodal point. Lightroom Classic can deal with that to some extent and if it fails, then Photoshop probably can still solve it. In landscapes with natural details, you likely will not see the transitions in the stitched result. The wider the lens angle, the bigger the mismatch and consequently the problem in stitching. With a pano from a 35 mm lens handheld horizontally, I do not expect any problem, "in nature".
That's a great technical explanation. Maybe a little too detailed for this video, but thanks for putting it out in the comments section, it will definitely help those who wants to really understand the physics of it! 😉
Small correction: the no-parallax point of a lens is at the entrance pupil, not either one of the nodal points. There is a paper titled “Correctly making panoramic imagery and the meaning of optical center” by R. Barry Johnson which explains the detail better than I could here Edit for anyone reading this: the entrance pupil can but generally doesn’t correspond to any physical part of the lens, you still need to do a physical test like JP dJ described to find the no-parallax point
Thanks, Carlos! Very appreciated comment. You can join my newsletter if you wanna know more about when I’m posting videos and photography in general fineart.danielaucoin.com/blog ✌️😉
Daniel your images certainly have the WOW factor obviously photoshop has a lot to do with that and I am not knocking that your camera your knowledge and photoshop are tools and you use them in a magical way and I love the results. What I would like is for you to show an image an then take us through the steps in photoshop. Great work with the shooting and editing.
Thank you Daniel for taking the time to produce these videos. I'm in and definitely along for the ride. One quick tip: You have the Manfrotto 190 with the removable column that can slot in sideways for macro/copy work. Slide the column all the way in and you'll have a lay-flat tripod with decent support.
You are an incredibly talented photographer! Keep up the wonderful work. I feel like panoramas give my photos a unique look other people don't usually do.
Thanks Rogue! I don’t earn anything from selling equipment but I tell you, if you don’t already have on nodal slide, you need one for panorama!!!😉 Thanks for the comment!🙏
Nice to see Canadian photographer's on RU-vid like yourself, Simon d'Entremont, Adam Gibbs and others! I'm from the Pacific coast of Canada myself ... a small Island off British Columbia called Salt Spring Island. Beautiful images Daniel, very striking and artistic processing which began with a great composition. We as photographers are artists and our photography has nothing to do with reality. Every time we change lenses, adjust shutter speeds or apertures, include or exclude elements in a scene or process an image we distort reality. Enjoyed your video and subscribed, keep up the good work ... looking forward to more videos on your chanel!
Wow, what a great motivation boost your comment is, Larry. I really appreciate that. At this time, my channel is still pretty new, and I'm looking to improve every aspect of my storytelling. Please, if you have suggestion for me regarding the format, length, style…let me know! Your insight are valuable to me! Thanks for your time!😉
Another Very good observation! I copy pasted my last answer to this one 😉 To be honest, I should have taken the time to get my neutral density filter out to get the correct shutter speed instead of using a small aperture. As you probably know, f/11 or f16 would have been the best option to keep the best image quality possible. I almost wrote f/16 in my description but wanted to be honest, haha. Very good observation. Thanks for the question!
Thanks I’m really happy you subscribe. Can’t wait to get back out there to do some longer form videos like this one. Hope you’ll be there when I got some thing new to share.😉🤟🙏
WRONG use of a nodal rail !!!! But who cares !!!??? Never mind, so touching to see all these influencers who dont care to check or feel responsable. What counts is the look, the daring, So cool.. And it's so nice to see all these kind follower's follow ..
Thanks for taking time comment! You’re right, should have take the time to explain in detail. Maybe I will in the future! Thanks for your time!😉👍 Here’s a link to an article on that: www.panoramic-photo-guide.com/finding-the-nodal-point.html
@@DanielAucoinFineArt ??? No certainly not. DONT explain in detail your mistakes ! STUDI in details BEFORE you influence WRONG 'teachings" (influence).
Tbh I’m not a fan the editing style but it’s all personal taste with photography . The vignette around the edges for me is to heavy and distracting. Great video though .
Superbe maîtrise de la composition, de la photo de paysage et de la technique de photo panoramique; les photos prises à ras-le-sol montrent une perspective des plus intéressantes et qui mériterait d'être plus utilisée par certains photographes de paysages. Que dirais-tu de faire une version française de tes publications : la vidéo est déjà faite et il n'y aurait que l'audio à enregistrer 😊. Ton anglais est pas mal et ton accent francophone ajoute un cachet à la version anglaise.
Merci bcp d'avoir pris le temps de m'écrire pour me donner du feedback Jean-Pierre. J'aime ton idée de faire une version en français aussi! Je ne dis absolument pas non!🙂 A+
It’s different for each lenses but a good starting point is the front of the lens. Here’s a good detailed guide: www.panoramic-photo-guide.com/finding-the-nodal-point.html
Le point de Nodal est différent pour chaque lentille et n’est jamais à l’extrémité d’une lentille. Certains fabricants fournissent cette information , d’autres non. Il faut alors le trouver sois même avec une technique assez simple mais très précise et efficace.
Encore une fois merci pour ton commentaire Gilles c’est très apprécié! Est-ce possible de nous partager un lien qui explique plus en détail cette technique ? Merci encore Gilles 😉👍
Same feeling here. Was wondering why no one in the comments was stating what felt like the obvious but proper etiquette on RU-vid is to only say nice things, so... Appreciate the video and the effort of sharing it though. Just don't like the pictures but to everyone his own. Diversity is a good thing.
That’s true John, Most of the time it’s close enough to stitch perfectly in processing. Didn’t want to get into details on this one. Thanks for taking time to write!😉👍
@@DanielAucoinFineArt so if you believe that it's close enough, then it's close enough just having the camera directly attached to tripod mount without a nodal rail surely, in which case why is a nodal rail essential in your view 🤷♂️
Ok, what I meant was I didn’t want to get onto details in the video. I know how to find it, here’s a link of a detailed video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IFQHoCjFTn8.html Thanks for your comment 🙂
Very good question! To be honest, I should have taken the time to get my neutral density filter out to get the correct shutter speed instead of using a small aperture. As you probably know, f/11 or f16 would have been the best option to keep the best image quality possible. I almost wrote f/16 in my description but wanted to be honest, haha. Very good observation. Thanks for the question!
Another Very good question! I copy pasted my last answer to this one 😉 To be honest, I should have taken the time to get my neutral density filter out to get the correct shutter speed instead of using a small aperture. As you probably know, f/11 or f16 would have been the best option to keep the best image quality possible. I almost wrote f/16 in my description but wanted to be honest, haha. Very good observation. Thanks for the question!
Excellent video, really well put together 👍🏻 And that panorama was just beautiful ... your style is very interesting, something quite different. By the way, I recently picked up that exact slider. I've only used it a few times, but my initial impressions are good.
Learn to be critical. This video is well meant, etc, but missleading regarding the correct use of a nodal rail. But who cares in an age of anything goes as long as one can build a followership to influence, so powerful.
@@AR-vf7vg it occurred to me in the brief time the rail was on screen that the camera was sitting too far back (maybe this is what you are referring to), but I'm no expert and didn't believe a comment from me would add much value. Part of 'learning to be critical' is knowing when to be critical. And in any case, I didn't watch the video for instruction on the correct use of a rail, I was simply curious about the photography and film making, both of which I enjoyed. Sometimes it's good to criticise, and sometimes it's good to simply offer positive support.
I do care AR and your comments are helpful. I will take time to explain in details in future videos. Without comments like yours, there's no learning for any of us. So thanks for taking time to write. And yes, I will learn to be critical.
@Brendan Lynch, thanks for engaging with the conversation. I'm in this to learn and help others to learn along the way. Comments like those from @AR are always a good thing in my mind. What I'm doing with them is even more important...thanks
Maybe in this video I just posted this morning!😉 PERFECT PANOS with NO Parallax | Landscape Photography (On Location) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1l83zQ53zfY.html
My photography style has evolved over the past few years and I agree with you, the color saturation is a bit too much. Thank you for taking the time to write to me and watch my video, A+
I expected that this video was about a simple way to make panoramic images. Instead, panoramas were hardly mentioned and this is the most overly complicated example I have seen. Your nodal system is completely unnecessary. Forrest Tanaka explained why and when to use one years ago, his explanation makes good sense. Your use of the nodal system is unexplained. You said nothing about making the base of your camera level, this is absolutely critical. Look at the gear videographers use, that works. The simplest way to make a panorama is to shoot one image and crop to shape. The second simplest I know is to hold the camera in the hands and carefully shoot a row carefully watching the horizon line in your EVF, or making multiple layers of shots to be sure to cover everything you could want. A good tripod and head improves the scope of what you can do, but do watch the water. I prefer my Lumix S1R over your R5 because it has a 187 megapixels option, f I use it I get both 47,3 megapixels and 187. And an option for handling moving parts such as the water.
Thanks for the comment John, really appreciate the time you took to give your thoughts on the video. I will try to put a little more details in my next videos. What I'm currently struggling with is not the photography side of things but filming to give you a sense of what I'm doing. Thanks for your comment, A+
You are in nature sir... silent your timer so there is no beeping. There's nothing worse to have on. You're surrounded by nature and it's beauty to only have BEEP BEEP BEEP like a car alarm. And also at F22 you will get diffraction and image softening. Try F16 max next time and add a ND filter if you need higher exposure time.
Thanks for your comment! To be honest, I should have taken the time to get my neutral density filter out to get the correct shutter speed instead of using a small aperture. As you probably know, f/11 or f16 would have been the best option to keep the best image quality possible. I almost wrote f/16 in my description but wanted to be honest, haha. Very good observation. Thanks for the question!
These sorts of high saturation images sell. They are not entirely my taste and if you are aware of the post processing and can appreciate the natural landscape they can seem a bit brash, but most people will not cycle to the middle of nowhere to photograph a tree, they just want a splash of colour on the wall.
