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Shoot and edit HDR panoramas like a pro! 

Practical Photography
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Dan is in the Isle of Skye to capture that amazing craggy landscape, including making the most of the stunning scenery with a mix of panorama photography and HDR bracketing to create insanely flexible image files.
We'll show you how to work with a Pano head, use a shutter release cable and all the ins and out of taking the perfect panorama photo. Dan also mixes this with an intro to bracketed photography, capturing multiple exposures to merge in your editing software giving you plenty of tones and a higher dynamic range to work with.
After photographing the scene, Dan shows you how to get the most from your hard day of panoramic photography, and guides you through editing your final shot in Photoshop.
We hope you enjoyed this, and you can see more of the shots on out Instagram, @Practicalphotography practicalph...
If you enjoyed this video, please drop a like and subscribe, and come and say hi at our Facebook community bit.ly/2lFdmX0 where we share shots, help with advice and chat everything photography.
You can also find other exciting tutorials, gear reviews and editing techniques in Practical Photography magazine's print and digital editions bit.ly/2pgoAUb
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14 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 17   
@LukeMackie
@LukeMackie 2 года назад
Wow, this is awesome. I thought Panorama's were the way to go, but this just ups the game completely.
@jbthesing1
@jbthesing1 3 года назад
This video is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much!
@panhacuteboy1297
@panhacuteboy1297 4 года назад
Good bro
@ppmagazine
@ppmagazine 4 года назад
Thanks!!
@shadda
@shadda 2 года назад
Do you find the HDR bracketing necessary on modern cameras? With an A7R3 for instance, I don't notice any discernible benefit from HDR bracketing compared to my camera's native dynamic range.
@sirmaxin
@sirmaxin 2 года назад
to get a landscape totally in focus, one want to take several pictures to stitch them together in photoshop to get focus overall. But how to combine this with bracketing? Create bracketing photo pr focus? hope u understand.. it get to be alot of photos if so
@tobyjugg6202
@tobyjugg6202 4 года назад
WOW - what an excellent and brief explanation !!!! One question : I noticed that having set bracketing you still pressed the shutter release 3 times - is this simply because you used a shutter release cable ?
@ppmagazine
@ppmagazine 4 года назад
Thanks so much for the kind words! Yes. Many cameras need you to either trigger the shutter for each exposure, or keep your finger on the shutter button. Using the remote, you need to trigger each one individually.
@tobyjugg6202
@tobyjugg6202 4 года назад
@@ppmagazine Thanks for that - my remote trigger takes 3 with 1 press, now I now what to expect when i use a cable - sorry for being a bit dim on this :)
@ke4uyp
@ke4uyp 2 года назад
At 100 mm focal length on the GH5 it takes 36 images to equal a standard 50 mm lens on a full-frame camera photo. This means that for a 50mm Full frame photo equivalency X Size 39.601 degrees Y Size 26.993 degrees You are achieving approximately a 720 megapixel image. Unfortunately for a price of about one and a half stops less dynamic range than a full frame sensor.
@northernninjafoto3230
@northernninjafoto3230 3 года назад
What about the big lense flare?
@SibaNL
@SibaNL 3 года назад
Pretty hard to avoid while the sun is out, or with some other harsh light sources. You can edit it out if you really want. I think it fine in this case.
@majky358
@majky358 2 года назад
manual mode, cover sun side with your hand + little crop or take more exposures where you cover the sun and layer mask the photo later, not the 100% result but can be still nice
@Alan-DPhotos
@Alan-DPhotos 4 года назад
Why the fancy kit? Nothing wrong with a level tripod and an 'L' Bracket.
@ppmagazine
@ppmagazine 4 года назад
We have a video covering none-fancy kit too! Nothing wrong with covering all the bases.
@geoffchalcraft9432
@geoffchalcraft9432 4 года назад
1. Why would you use Aperture Priority (or anything '-Priority') ..... if you're not fully manual, your camera will adjust itself for each segment of the pano, depending on the scene in front of the lens..... and that could result in very different EVs (in this case, shutter speeds), which could change the light on the scene. e.g. if there's a segment or two which has lower mountains, you'll get more sky..... more sky will mean and different exposure. 2. For thee same reason, go with a fixed ISO and a fixed White Balance. 3. "Work out where your Nodal Point is"..... how? 4. Lining up with the Nodal Point.... my camera doesn't have the same bit of red string as yours. 5. Lens choice?
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