I use to have to take those off all the time repairing mine equipment I would weld a nut on the top in the center and put an eye bolt on em raise em with crane and spin and heat em.
Been using this method on bearing races for at least 30 years. These are definitely "tricks" that need to be passed down to new generations of technicians. Thanks for showing this.
Exactly. When you're up against a shoulder on a shaft heat is the best option. Hard to get a grinder in there. Sometimes it just won't come off and you gotta cut it diagonally and split it with a chisel. This is not a new invention.
Love toyotas, im an old electrical tec. Starters alternators rebuilder warranty station for leece Neville in central washington. Had to pull many bearing races. I used a lathe, torch and screw driver. Come off like butter
I wouldn't consider him a genius because professional technicians have been using this method forever. There are some things we just don't make common knowledge to the general population.
@@-Mike-69 I mean..Im pretty sure anyone from “professional technicians” to said “general populations” would deduce that’s more of a compliment in say, excessive praise. People that would get it usually having more personality than that of a grapefruit. And those who have the grapefruit personality usually sound butthurt that they didn’t get the praise for thinking of it.
@@themetalfusionologist yeah the words have real meanings and heroes and some other ones are definitely being overused man the real heroes aren't even around anymore I can tell you because I left a few of them behind
I've cut those races of with a die grinder.... Cut 95% through don't over cut into the axle shaft, then use a drift or a punch or a big flathead screw driver in the cut to cause the race to crack through.....done it many times works beautiful if you haven't got a torch🤷
I am a Toyota mechanic in Australia drill or die grind is only way as we only have 1 gas axe but must say dose look a bit faster might have to give it a go if I can get near the torch
Always have to do this lol, tbh even if you nick the shaft slightly it doesn't really matter as long as you buff the burr off of it so the bearing slides over without catching.
yes sir I also seen a lot of Fords AMC and Allis Chalmers John Deere but not at the dealership of course I remember in the Oldsmobile dealership that's anywhere from 120 to 200,000 miles that's pretty damn good vehicles don't do that today
Brilliant! Use to put shafts that were small enough in the freezer to shrink them and warm up the bearings or vice versa if the bearings were being inserted into a housing. Another cool trick we used was if a large shaft was frozen and galled, needed to be removed we’d use a welder to arc out on a consumable brake line and bore through with an air hose blowing air through the brake line as it was consumed all while cutting out the internal shaft without damaging the loader bucket
Find a old farmer with a couple of tanks and get em inspected just for your safety much cheaper and alot of times you can get a bunch of other tools from em just by showing interest and cleaning out space for em too
I can only push the thumbs up button once. YT needs to fix that, these boys deserve a dump truck full of thumbs up for that sick trick. Maybe the best thing I’ve seen on YT today. Thanks for an actual incredible video
Bearing race on an axle. Hit bearing race with big hammer several times and it will fall off. High tensile strength steel does not spring back like spring steel does. Still, I like the blow torch. If it is burned on as in high glowing red heat the blow torch might not work. Will need to be machined off.
Spent 10yrs as a mechanic in a powerhouse. Old school guy taught me this trick for removing bearing races way back in the late 80's. Also taught me to place new bearings in a toaster oven in the shop to heat them up and then no need to press the new bearing on just slides right into place. That old man taught me more about being a mechanic than 4yrs as an apprentice and 2 state engineering licenses ever did. He told me when it comes to wrenching on equipment, heat can be your best friend 😂
I've seen a lot of old timer tricks in my day but that by far is one of the most badass tricks I've seen. Hopefully this trick helps when I do the axel bearings on my brick nose F150... Only took 470k for one of them to start whining.
This is one of the most intelligent things Ive ever seen. So simple and yet so effective combining properties from multiple disciplines into a single display. I think you missed your true calling sir. We would have already been driving electric and colonizing Mars if more people like you went into the sciences. Well done.
Although I'm 55 now an don't think I have that kind of coordination....that pretty slick!. Been wrenching over 35yrs an that's a new one to me...thanks.
Guy I worked for had a small scrap business an he used to show me how to do different tricks ,and one time said you can hit a hardened pin next to the casing a couple of times with a chisel n itll fly right out when i was cleaning the steel out of a transmission n it worked . He used to work for the R&R so he had experience in that field of work fixing rails n cars.
This is a cool trick although since you’re using a press to reinstall the bearing, you might as well use press to pull the bearing. What I worry about is losing or affecting the heat treatment of the axle
As a machinist and engineer that has dealt with heat treatment for years, this is absolutely not a concern in this application. You aren’t putting nearly enough heat into that axle shaft to even approach the point at which you need to be concerned about altering the heat treatment. I would be willing to bet that, at least in this case (the one that we just watched), that shaft didn’t get above 150 degrees Fahrenheit. Hardened steel needs to see about 600 degrees before it starts to lose its temper. This is obviously a generalization as the exact temperature is dependent on the type of steel and the mass of the part and a myriad of other factors, but for the average, run of the mill (pun intended) piece of steel, it would take a significant sized area achieving 600 degrees to a depth of at least .01”-ish before I would expect to see any sort of degradation in the parts temper or the performance that would be expected as a result of the heat treatment process.
Consider how much heat and shock the axle shaft takes on a regular basis. If they heat the race in oil, it should drop on without much trouble. A goldilocks piece of pipe and a hammer will easily seat the race without elaborate set up. Remember alot of the dealer service centers put them boys on a ridiculously tight time frame.
Alternatively, one man job with the angle grinder. You don't need to grind through the race as a tap with the hammer cracks what's left. Faster, safer and more cost effective too.
@@andrewmicas4327 Me too. Escorts, Viva, Chevette, Victors, Zephyrs, Rovers to name a few. 👍 The gaffer wouldn't let me waste gas. But compressed for the air grinder was free! Lol
Trick is to heat the outer raise very quickly to not allow the heat to transfer to the axle so that thermal expansion takes effect into the interferance fit and it becomes larger than the shaft, if you do it slow the axle will catch up and you might just make it less tight or never comes off because the shaft expandes when with it too
Yep, after turning the O-A torch Off, hit the axle shaft with unlit MAP gas torch gas … it super expands when pressure is released and COOLS down whatever it touches. C-R-A-C-K! Inner race snaps free of shaft. Disassemble B4 both parts achieve common temperatures again. You’re welcome
Why would you heat up that axel like you are doing. Axles are heat treated. The bearing race is extremely hard and brittle. When you can simply use a cutoff wheel. Just scoring the bearings race. Take a ball peen hammer and chisel. A few hits on the chisel. Where you scored the bearing race. The bearing race will crack apart and fall off. Make sure you wear safety glasses and work gloves while doing this procedure.
Done fast enough like they did doesn't get enough heat to cause any problems. I have used that method many times in the past but usually just use press I have a large enough one set up is less than a minute and another minute to press then flip it press new on and done.
@@theodoreflageolle3617 I absolutely agree using a hydraulic press or an Arbor Press to remove a bearing race is the proper way. And the little amount of heat applied in this video.Most likely didn’t affect the temper of the Axel. But many people don’t realize that and would overheat the axel where a bearing race is normally pressed on. Axels are heat treated and some people would over heat the axel. Either softening or making it harder and brittle. I think this video is a poor representation of what someone should do to remove a Bearing Race. A cutoff wheel, Hammer and Chisel is something I think most people would have. That work on their vehicles.
That axle would get hotter in the diff going down the road that’s a really clean way to do the job I’m going to try that with the axle seals on my disco
Heated the bearing so that it expanded(metal expands when heated) so that the bearing would fall off. It would be too tight to try and pull off any other way without damage.😊
I've always wondered why someone hadn't figured out a way to differentially heat an interference part to disassemble it. It never crossed my mind to just heat the outer ring so fast that the inner part doesn't have a chance to heat up and expand. Well done.
To explain why this works is simple, yet brilliant. Heat makes metal expand. Rotating the column makes the heat distribution even so as to prevent overheated areas which may warp the structure. Honestly this is so cool.
I had the rose bud out yesterday. I had an NPT drain plug in the rear axle of a tractor that 450-foot lbs couldn't loosen. Who would tighten it that much !!? That plug is in a thousand lbs of thick cast but I heated up just around it, gave the plug a couple of good whacks with a 5 lb persuader, applied 200 ft lbs and when I gave it another hammer blow while torque applied it moved. Amazingly, nothing damaged. Farm boy success this time. The tractor is a 70HP 1976 IH Hydro 70 that is what I use to blow snow off my driveway, so it is imperative that I get the hydrostatic transmission serviced. Common oil for transmission, hydraulics, and rear axle. So, the oxy-acetyline torch is a farm necessity.
I used to love doing this with differential races. Also on a piece of rail equipment I ran that had a set of rolling rail lifts. The inner race was shrunk onto the shaft. We'd get it glowing red then smack it with a chisel and hammer and watch it fly off into the air.
Nice trick. Not going to lie. I've just got races off with a torch but I'm pretty good with the torch. I can even cut a piece of exhaust pipe out of another piece of exhaust pipe without hurting the exterior pipe. Kind of proud of that
That was bad ass! Another trick if you don't have a torch that gets hot enough, cut a groove in it as close to the axle as possible on the race and take a wedge air hammer in the cut and it will break and fracture and come off..
Outstanding.. i would have put it in a lathe and heated it up, but i would have still needed to knock it off with. lead mallet. This is genius at work.
