I use the klipper paper method with cold bed and nozzle, and adjust while making test prints like yours. Typically my vocano hotend expands 150 microns. Thanks for the video. Finally marlin has this Wizard too.
Looks to me like it would be easier to set the offset by homing all axis. Your x,y DROs will read 0,0 then use a sharpie to make an x under the tip of the nozzle then jog over until your probe is over the marked x on then read your offsets directly off the x,y DRO on the LCD.
@@boggisthecat That is true when you are manually leveling a bed. But for the Z offset, you want that to be the ACTUAL distance from the end of the probe to the bed. You then set your first layer height in the slicer.
you are close. if you use paper to land the nozzle, then you need to use paper during z probe homing as well, or there will be a nozzle_to_probe(z) error approximately equal to the thickness of the paper. which btw if you use printer paper is actually 0.05mm not 0.1mm. this is a point which most people do not get. but then again most people don't realise the error as they eventually eliminate it during babystep "fine tuning" after the fact. this paper thickness error becomes absorbed inside the nozzle_to_probe offset z value. but then people can't figure out when their 20.00mm tall calibration cubes come out as 20.05mm.... if paper is used to land the nozzle, it must be used to trigger the probe as well during homing. after using paper for both the nozzle and the probe, z_home_pos should be set in Marlin config to 0.05. this is so that after homing is done, z height reads correctly as 0.05 instead of 0. most people do not do this so when they home, z reads at 0 when in fact there is a paper thickness worth of gap between the bed and nozzle. so when layer 1 0.20mm starts, the nozzle is actually at 0.25mm and the first layer has poor adhesion and you end up babystepping down and making nozzle_to_probe(z) more negative. if you dont do z_home_pos, then you will have systematic error in the height of your prints, such as the calibration cube example i gave--but for most people i think it will not be an issue.
@@suivzmoi All of this, great info! Though, I have never had a piece of paper be that thin. I always measure whatever paper I use and standard printer paper has always been between .09 and .11 for me. I suck and using the eyeball method for adjusting babystepping... so I try to get my Z offset bang-on when setting it.
I agree. I was quite excited to see a video on this as most information is plain wrong re setting z offset especially where probes are concerned. Unfortunately as soon as I saw the paper.. I was pretty disappointed.. not to mention hearing the words squish. the z offset should set the nozzle so that z=0 just touches the bed.. nothing more nothing less. The slicer sets the height of the first layer and calculates the required amount of filament to be pushed through to achieve the set width and height correctly. Therefore if you set the first layer to 0.32 it should measure 0.32. you don't squish it.. that's the slicers job to work out. If it's meant to be 0.32 then it should measure it. As Aaron F said, the paper thickness should be taken into account, or better still use a metal feeler gauge of a known thickness and add that thickness to the z offset so z=0 is correct. Another thing to consider is that spring mounted beds move easily when setting the. Z Offset so when using a metal feeler gauge it really only has to faintly touch it, otherwise it's likely that the bed will move a fraction and throw the measurement out anyway. I always print a skirt and that skirt is measured to ensure my first layer is just right as set in the slicer. There is a good argument for solid bed mounts with mesh levelling and as a side issue.. 4 point levelling is a big culprit for warping beds. 3 point won't warp it
what are you using for your bl touch? I used marlin but when i do the z offset i've less control over adjustments as it jumps in increments, I also don't have the wizard function
I find it difficult to observe the "squish" while printing, so to fine tune the Z offset I print a single layer square. Once the print is finished I measure how thick it is with digital calipers, then calculate any adjustment needed to correct the thickness to match the first layer height. For example if I am printing with 0.2mm layer height and I get a thickness of 0.16mm, I then adjust the Z offset by +0.04mm. The next print should be be dead on (within the accuracy limits) the layer height.
I can't even thank you enough for all the help you have provided with all of your videos. I honestly don't know what I would have done without you and your videos! Thank you so much again and again!
IMHO the Z offset is not showing correctly in the video. You want Z on !ZERO! with the offset. Not on Zero+ 0.1mm from the paper. So do the paper-thing and than add ~0.05 or maybe even ~0.1mm to your offset. This way, you should be really close to the real zero.
I believe the z offset wizard expects you to lower the nozzle until it touches the bed and not some paper-thick distance from it. If you look at the values on the wizard at the moment you press "done" and look at the calculated value it puts on the z-offset value, you can see it doesn't account for any thickness added by the paper nor could it since there is no place to tell it how thick the paper you're using is. I think the correct way to use the wizard is to either lower the nozzle until it touches the bed, or do it like you did but then you have to go to the value the wizard put on the z offset and subtract the thickness of the paper. So if it puts -2.25 you change it to -2.45 it the paper is 0.2 mm thick.
If this was the case the nozzle would have been moved closer to the bed in the example case, but the nozzle was moved farther from the bed because even with the wizard it was too close. The wizard has some error because each filament will want a diffrent z-offset for best possible results. You could end up both having to move the nozzle closer or farther. It's also not really possible to tell if a nozzle is just touching the bed or pressing into it with frame flex taking up the extra distance. Essentially resulting in setting the nozzle too low whereas with the paper you can tell immediately on contact.
@@nocare Hi. Referring to my example, the wizard puts -2.25 with the nozzle being at 0.2 mm from the bed but it thinks it is touching it. So you put it at -2.45 because that's where it actually is. Do it like this and after configuration move the z to 0.2 mm then take a 0.2 mm shim and measure it and you'll see it's spot on.
@@xXxGuilhermeB My point is if that was necessary then in the video after the wizard had been run, 'teaching tech' would have moved the nozzle closer to the bed when seeing the results from the test print. However the nozzle ended up too close and had to be moved even farther away. My point being getting the exact offset is not the desired result. Getting a good print is. Your method does not guarantee or even probabilistically improve the chances of a good print result on the test print. Therefore its unnecessary and likely worse than leaving the paper thickness in. Since the nozzle will likely have to be moved away from the bed.
@xXxGuilhermeB I think you are correct because he was already heating the nozzle and bed so it should be the distance where the nozzle makes contact with the bed. When we use a piece of paper or feeler gauge, it's usually because the nozzle is cold and we are leaving room for expansion of the nozzle when it's heated to temperature.
Tip for measuring: Lower the nozzle to about 3mm above the bed so you can fit a ruler (or angle square) under the tip; draw a line perpendicular to the edge of the bed; do the same for the tip of the BLTouch. Do this for both X and Y. You can now easily and precisely measure the distance between the lines drawn on the bed.
Tape a piece of paper to the bed. Lower the nozzle all the way into the paper and write down the XY coordinates. Now raise the nozzle back up. It should leave a small dimple in the paper. Use a marker to put a spot on the dimple so it's easier to see. Now move the print head so the probe is directly over the dot. Write down this second set of coordinates. Now subtract the second set of coords from the first set and it will leave you with your XY probe offset.
@@all3n1k It wouldnt matter where you did it, as long as you compare the coordinates with nozzle and probe over exactly the same spot. it could be near the edge if you wanted.. It might be convenient if you have an inductive probe to use an object the size of the probe head and mark or drill the center. Those probes are pretty big diameter so its quite hard to eyeball the center of it. In the end the offset doesnt need to be THAT accurate
I work with industrial robots, and we have pin checks or TCP checks installed. When we have a collision (this is actually not that rare) we can take the worktool to the pin check and adjust accordingly. Now I can see that having a pin check to travel to would be complicated, printing one should not be. So for FINE tuning, we could print a pin/pyramid (any pointy object) and then with the wizard drive x-y-z until the probe is just touching the tip of the pin/pyramid. Marlin would need ti integrate the test print pin/pyramid, however then once you move the bltouch pin to the tip of the pin/pyramid marlin should be able to auto calculate the offset.
Something is not right here. If you set offset as 0 at the height of the paper which is 0.2mm than your 0 is actually at 0.2. When you start print your printer will rise from 0 to 0.2 as standard layer height but those two will given you 0.4 mm height. The nozzles should touch the surface to be at real 0mm. I do the paper trick but than lower the setting for additional 0.15-0.2mm. Anyone agree?
I've just started 3d printing a month ago with my stock E3 Pro, and to be honest the first couple of runs I had were really rough for me. Thank you so much for your guides as I've grown really fond of using my printer alot more. Thank you for putting time and effort to teaching Noobs like me to better use my printer.
do not use pliers or needle nosed tweazers on a brass nozzle heated above 100C. you can deform the tip, skewing your nozzle size. Just use your nozzle brush.
I found an easier way to measure nozzle to probe offset. I just cut one piece of cardboard to the size of the print bed, than secure it to the bed with clips. Than I manually deployed the probe and slowly moved Z axis until the pin barely touches the cardboard and I marked the exact spot with a pen. In the next step I retract the probe and slowly moved the Z axis up. Just enough to have the nozzle punching a little mark at the cardboad. Than I just moved the bed down and got a nice print of 2 points to measure it with the calipers without any hassle. I hope this helps others. I love your content.
dont bother with rulers, cardboard, graph paper, etc. you have filament in the nozzle. just extrude a dot on the bed to mark the position of the nozzle, then jog x&y to put the deployed probe right on top of that dot and note the change in x and y. that's your xy offset.
My method with a BL Touch as they fix some bugs with the wizard: 1. Preheat bed/nozzle, home and move x/y to the center of the build plate. 2. In BL Touch menu, deploy BL Touch. 3. Slowly lower Z until probe is touching the bed, and note the height. 3a. Move nozzle to where probe was, using the known x/y offset values. 4. Slowly lower Z until nozzle is touching the bed, and note the second height. 5. Do math to determine difference from probe end to nozzle end. As noted in video, this number should be negative. 6. Enter this value as Z Probe Offset. 7. Happy first layers. EDIT: I forgot step 3a. Depending on how warped your bed is, it could make all the difference.
works perfect on my home rebuild tronxy x3 with Marlin 2.0. After flashing the tronxy firmware i had a lot of issues to get marlin to work gladley there are a lot of yuotube chanels to refer to including al your films about the subject. Thanks for that It works now perfect. Better then the original x3.
Very nice! I've been using paper along with the nozzle and touch tip to mark dots, connect them, then just measure the distance on the paper. I have unsteady hands so it became my workaround 👍
I'm unable to see the probe z wizard offset in the menu, I know you said that it's only compatible with the Marlin LCD interface. But can't that be enabled within the firmware? thanks
@@thoughtsofglought I have 2.0.8 compiled and I got the BLTouch working fine except ... the Z offset wizard indeed does not show in the Marlin menu. Yes I have #define PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD. I can't find any more info on getting it to show up in the Marlin menu tree.
@@thoughtsofglought thanks for replying. Yea I've watched a bunch of videos and seen where it is supposed to be ... but it ain't there. I'm pretty familiar with modding the config files and compiling Marlin, but it ain't in the final menu system. If anyone knows the secret please let me (us) know.
This would've video been extremely helpful a few weeks ago. The best thing that I've learned is: if you're nozzle is too far from the build plate when printing, decrease (into the negatives if needed) the nozzle to probe z offset, and increase it if it's too close
So as a general rule, your Z offset should almost always be negative (unless you have a dedicated Z-off switch AND an ABL probe, and even then, depending on how your bed is shaped/warped and how much you've tightened your leveling screws, it may still cause issues). For most people, they disconnect the Z-limit switch and reconnect the ABL probe to it. This means your nozzle will crash into the build surface/bed since the printer doesn't know it's at the top/bottom of the build volume. Not good, since that tends to warp beds.
@@whoofianbrony8804 I am very much trying to work out how to use both. I want end stop for distance, and CrTouch for warping. Can't find any guide that soecificially let you keep the end stop. Everyone I found says to dusconnect it instead.
nice but i dont' get the "new feature" . It something we are already doing since the introduction of ABL. The real feature that no one is testing and i can't make it work is the assisted bed leveling/tramming....it should tell you exactly how many turns to give to each bed screws...that's a great idea!
You sir just made me save an amount of time that has no other equal but my gratitude to you. Thank you so much for the clarity of your video. State of the art.
Without wizard you basically first set your offset to 0 (or default value) Then you home all axes and move the z-axis to 0mm. Now you can adjust your offset with real-time change over the 'bed-leveling' menu, and save to eeprom. So the core function of the wizard is not that 'new', but it is a really good idea! It combines different steps together to make it as easy as possible for beginners, without having to dial trough every menu
can i use probe z-offset without abl? i just want to adjust z after changing nozzle without relevelling the bed, if i use baby stepping it doesnt store the value.
Hi, friend. I have had problems setting the z-offset correctly on my biqu bx. It seems like the auto leveling probe is not helping me. In some places on the bed it seems to be going well but At other points the nozzle is very close to the bed. And in other parts very separate. I have also manually leveled the 4 corners using the manual leveling wizard and the 4 points They look perfect, but when printing is where the problems arise. My printer is new and I haven't made the first print yet. It has me very frustrated and I don't know what else to do. Help me please
You shouldn't use paper for the Z Offset Wizard, it will/should be perfect when you can't see light between the nozzle and the bed. Edit: Might want to use a lower SHORT_MANUAL_Z_MOVE value for more precise last movements. Edit2: And you should use it with fully heated nozzle without filament in it.
I went off the pull request thread on GitHub where using a piece of paper is discussed. I found it helps for clarity too. Some beds are reflective so it's hard to gauge exactly how close the nozzle is. Otherbeds will be damaged by the hot nozzle.
As someone new to auto bed leveling, this video was very, very well made and useful! Thank you so very much for your help in clarifying this process, hopefully I'll be up and running with a BL Touch on my CR-10 S5 soon. Cheers!
I see that the symbolic constant "HAS_LCD_MENU" is not defined in the latest (2/2021) Marlin bugfix code. But, why should that be a requirement for supporting the wizard? Is it just a "to do" for the developers, or is there a reason it's a big deal to support it with the stock Ender 3 V2 code?
I have a great idea for a Probe Offset Wizard (not Z offset) which does not exist! It would be simple and save using a ruler to measure the distance between the BL/CR touch to nozzle. I don't know why this doesn't exist already, but maybe you could do it... 1: Press go and the printer prints a small bullseye or x, then it moves to the side and lowers the probe down to where it thinks it is set, and if it is not hitting the X; 2: you turn the knob for X and Y and the gantry moves .1 of a mm each click of the knob until you get the probe directly over the X. Done! Save settings. No need for eyeballing a ruler and you can get the offset 100% Perfect! Any dummy could do it!
La página de este tipo es oro puro. Yo estoy aprendiendo mucho y está impresionante todas las herramientas para probar diferentes valores. Superrecomendado.
Hello there fellow printermans For many days now im trying to figure out an issue with bl touch.Z axis moves( like it's trying to level the bed) while i print but it doesnt get it right.In some parts of the bed surface,nozzle prints to low and vice versa. I tried M48 test,results are okay and the X axis is almost perfectly calibrated. At Cura i use the M29 after M28.Also i tried M420 and there was no difference. Except that i haven't done any changes at Cura's g.code. My printer is the Ender 3 pro with btt skr V2.0 and i use bl touch smart 3.1. I have tried many marlin versions but the problem remains. For the love of god help me. Thanx ❤️
I find a piece of old fashioned graph paper works for measuring ABL offset. Drop the nozzle on to a square mart it record where the pin touches and count the squares. Simple
Love your videos. But i cant figure out Marlin to save my life. Creality has preset downloads that are nice. work very well. But i get fluster on my next upgrade. and how to setup the ender 3s software right. Currently only running 1 upgrade. 350 on the z. But now i need BL, 350 on the z, and filament sensor. And Creality doesn't have a preset software that has them. No one has videos on this kind of thing. WIth the new way of just using creality instead of Marlin advanced. lol.
weird, my Z probe offsets in marlin are right, double checked but when I G29 it just homes X and Y then starts to probe from there not moving in to where the probe is at
I just dial it in during a first layer, I can get it a lot more accurate that way. If you enable babystepping (and maybe something else too) you can change the Z-offset by double clicking the dial while printing. It's very easy and accurate.
i installed a sensor on my ender 3 and all of it works correctly, but after abl it wont make the z corrections in the prints. the z axis dont even move a bit. can someone help?
Thank you very much for covering the Wizard probe as requested, the whole video was very informative and explained other things I didn't know. Thank you again for help and service you provide, and for the little shout out, much appreciated.
When you adjust z using baby steps at the end of the video, do you have to add that amount to the probe z offset or does it do it itself when you store the settings?
Can you explain what PROBE_OFFSET_START does? And how I should take this into account when setting Probe Z offset? In my Marlin build this is commented out, so it's 0, but what does it doe exactly?
The ABL Tweak for X5SA (400mm models) is wrong (identical to the one for 300 model). One needs to replace the values 290 with 360 inside before using it.
I'm trying to make my own firmware for my Sovol SV01 since it doesn't have the Z Offset Wizard enabled. I can't get the Babystepping to adjust the Z Offset in real time. What settings do I need to set in the firmware to enable this?
I've nearly got my BLTouch set up but it's missing the print bed on the Y axis, even though I definitely measured the offset correctly. Any advice on what the problem might be?
why not just start from offset=0 and start printing any first layer calibration model and lower the nozzle while printing with probe offset babystep? after you get the good result just save config and done. I don't really see the point of this whole wizard thing, just a waste of time.
@@alejandroperez5368 so what? That's the reason why probe probing points, the nozzle will be lowered and upped accordingly to the mesh, this has nothing to do, it is a right way to set you print offset, just do your G29 first and after that start the print, maybe a 100x100x0..2mm square and adjust your offset while it prints, save the setting after that and done. There is absolutely no reason using the piece of paper and this nonsense wizard
@@ramzeslo2 You're wrong. You first find the Z offset, then you probe your bed with whatever bed leveling system and then you fine tune the Z offset on first layer if necessary. If you start printing without a Z probe offset value, it will likely start printing mid air, and will have to adjust it from a very distant value without an actual working mesh = crazy result. But if it works for you...whatever.
Pemergency, that is the way I have always done it in the past, however, because you don't feel the need for this wizard doesn't mean it's 'nonsense'. Consider a probe like the CR-6 (or the version I designed for Ender 3 inspired by this). Those designs have a positive Z offset, so starting a print with it set to 0 will scrape the hot nozzle on the bed. At the end of the day, this is another option. If it's not what you need, there's no need to bash the wizard or those who use it.
I was googling for the G-code which would provide me the current Z-offset. It seems there isn’t one yet. As the menu of the CR-5 Pro H doesn’t have a z-offset adjustment, it would have been helpful to then adjust the difference from that point.
Greetings from Australia. This is how I calculate my x and y probe offsets. I take off my PEI plate and tape a piece of graph paper with mm lines, taking care to get it aligned squarely Then the PEI plate goes back on the magnetic bed Then I raise the z axis and lightly touch the tip of the nozzle and the probe with stamp pad ink. Then I lower the nozzle until it just touches the paper, then I deploy the probe. The raise the z axis and observe the graph paper. With luck there will be two ink spots on the graph paper. Remove it from the printer and with a set square align the top of the square with the nozzle point, keeping within the lines on the graph paper. Slide the square to the left until the right angle side of the square touches the probe point. Measure that distance along the top of the square. If it’s to the left and in front of the nozzle it’s a minus reading. Now for the y probe point. The y offset is the measurement along the left side of the right angle triangle, ie the distance below the x offset line. Once again if this is in front of the nozzle, it’s a minus. Enter these two values in the x and y offsets in the Marlin FW. And remember. If you change a nozzle or upgrade your hardware, or remove and replace your touch, then you have to do this again. I just installed a Micro Swiss NG direct drive so I recalculated the values.
Hi, thanksfor all those very helpfull video ! , I have an artillery X2, i'v put a PEI on the glass, do you know how much more degrees I should put to compensate the glass? thank you
Thank you for the video, but I find I have to readjust my calibration frequently. I am sure to save settings each time, so am confused as to why this happens. Moreover, my unlevel bed does not seem to be taken into account, and therefore the middle of the bed is highest (and therefore squished most), and is not being rectified. Does anyone have suggestions to fix this?
unable to activate z probe wizard firmware becomes to large for my cr10 v1 board i have deactivated everything i can to shrink the file size. any suggestion?
My new sunlu t3 has a error message, saying too far! I'm not sure what it is, but I noticed the x,y and z offsets are messed up and it came this way. I can't manually level the bed either, no matter how much I crank up the dials and mess with the z offset function the bed doesn't get high enough. I am new to printing so this is all confusing
So I just purchased and installed the skr mini v3 along with the tft35 e3 v3 on my ended 3. When I turn my printer on I get an invalid mesh notification
Not sure why I never see this technique. I set my X/Y offset for the probe by printing a right angle (L shape), where the intersection point is the center of the printer bed. I then manually move the sensor with tip extracted until the tip is directly over the intersection. I use the new coordinates to calculate the x/y offsets.
Why does my bltouch when I set it to zero crash into the bed but when I don't en I fix it with zo offset en get it tuned and it does an autolevel. Still does not can go True all 9 points on my bed. And sometimes the middle one where I set everything to?? Help!
I used the firmware for the e3 v1.2 with blt and run out but my bltouch doesn’t do anything it flashes red for a bit and then solid red in the menu it doesn’t respond to the deploy retract or test. So frustrating as I’m a newby to working with config files
I have an ender 5 plus and I had a Boden set up but I turned it into a direct drive set up but the probe is offset to about 42 mm to the left and the probe no longer probes the right spot I tried using m851 but it's not working so I'm stuck since I don't have an adrenal board
Is this same firmware and options available on the ender 5 plus? after I got mine I upgraded to a kersey fab updated firmware but neither the stock nor that one has a lot of these options. Are these same options available on any newly updated ender 5 plus marlin firmware?
My offset wizard tries to probe outside the build plate. Once it homes , it doesnt go back onto the bed, but stays right against the endstops. How do i fix this?
what setting do you put to generate a proper gcode test file? I put my dimensions in, but it doesn't print square, left test squares are squished against the left side of the bed.. Ender 3 pro cr touch.
If you're having trouble with offsets for ABL, the piezo disc leveling system installed on your hot end eliminates the need for offsets. Just like the CR6SE it uses the nozzle as the probe so no offset needed. Just another way around having to calculate pesky offsets.
Got an issue that maybe wonderful youtube comments can help with- after my printer probes the last point, it *drastically* lowers itself into my build plate and scratches the hell out of my glass on its way to print the purge line
The mesh values i had got inverted, ive tried redoing everything but it still did not level well. Ther other side is high and the other is squished. Any help?
being a total total noob with 3D printers im COMPLETELY out of my area of knowledge on how to work out the basic marlin firmware with the BL Touch for my Biqu B1, im totally stuck. i just dont even know where to start im so overwhelmed even the beginner processes seem too advanced to me
I have Ender 3 V2 and followed this tutorial hoping to get the z-offset wizard menu on the printer's display. But, it doesn't show up on the V2 with stock display. A quick look at the Marlin bugfix code shows why. Teaching Tech has us uncomment #define PROBRE_OFFSET_WIZARD in a code fragment that only gets executed if the symbolic constant "HAS_LCD_MENU" is defined: #if HAS_LCD_MENU // Add Probe Z Offset calibration to the Z Probe Offsets menu #if HAS_BED_PROBE #define PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD #if ENABLED(PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD) // // Enable to init the Probe Z-Offset when starting the Wizard. // Use a height slightly above the estimated nozzle-to-probe Z offset. // For example, with an offset of -5, consider a starting height of -4. // #define PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD_START_Z -4.0 // Set a convenient position to do the calibration (probing point and nozzle/bed-distance) #define PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD_XY_POS { X_CENTER, Y_CENTER } #endif #endif And HAS_LCD_MENU is not defined when the code is configured as Teaching tech instructs. Here's where it conditionally gets defined: #if IS_ULTIPANEL && DISABLED(NO_LCD_MENUS) #define HAS_LCD_MENU 1 #endif It doesn't seem like there's any reason a specific display would be required to support the wizard, so I suspect the work to add menu items to the stock Ender 3 V2 display just hasn't been done (yet?).
Hello, I have Ender 5 with mainboard 4.2.7 and BLtouch V3.1. 2 days ago I mount BLtouch sensor for ABL. My problem is the X/Y offset: so it tries to measure the left side not on the bed and it ramms the nozzle in the heated. If I set NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET to X-42 Y-16 or X 0 Y 0 is always the same position on the left side when is carried out Level Bed. If I set NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET to X-42 Y-16 then is printing also with this offset, and printer want to print the right site not on the bed, but with this offset is BLTouch on the centre of the bed. So the problem is offset by X-axis is not correct, but I don't know how to solve it. PLEASE FOR HELP
