in this video I'm gonna share with you how to diagnose & fix an Air Conditioning System that Stopped Working on a Hyundai Elantra!! #airconditioning #hyundaielantra
I am fine with replacing all the AC major components when we do not know if the compressor has filled the system with metal particles. I was taught to test the overall system by feel, that is to say by temperature as pressure equals temperature, the higher the pressure, the higher the temp. If the Condensor is partially clogged with metal particles, the inlet will be very hot at 440 PSI and the outlet will be much cooler, say more than 20*F. The larger the temperature drop, the more restriction there is but we ought to give a fair inspection as to why the very high pressure. This could be lots of metal in the Drier also? Once the Condensor is out, at least blow shop air into the outlet and see if any metal will blow back out of the inlet, catch that on a white rag or some color that will allow a good inspection for metal. If you are very worried about metal then all the lines need to be chemically flushed as well since you are removing all the major parts. I will check out Part 2 also, thanks for all your knowledge in all your videos, cheers.
The ac condenser and compressor aren’t as expensive as I expected but man I am guessing the labor is going to be a pretty penny. Very interesting indeed seeing as we have a 2011 sonota for a commuter car.
@HabitualButtonPusher The Labor on this project wasn't bad since it's pretty straight forward to replace these components, You'll see in Part 2 which is coming out soon!
What’s interesting is the compressor is making 450psi of pressure on the high side. However, it doesn’t drop the pressure on the low side/ suction side. Usually, with a bad compressor, both sides stay close to equal.
yep i do agree with that. i dont think it needed all those parts, but if you replace it all its got to work right, but if he will get the right tools for ac and study hvac . . he will look back at his ac skills and say wow its what he doesnt no is what hurts him with ac work and he is not the only one . hvac ac channel, tom lech is trying to help us but i think they wont except what they are doing is wrong
@zygi22 Metal shavings from the compressor caused that, the dryer on the condenser was plugged we saw it after we opened the dryer with a cut off wheel and I wish we showed on camera! and the compressor was indeed bad, but next time, we will make a more detailed video, thanks
a better way to think about it. if it cant suck it cant pump . nothing in nothing out ,right it appears to be doing both sucking and pumping. the proof its doing both is the fact of the hi side pressure. if it was not sucking you would not see the pumping to the hi side, if that makes sense.and if it could not pump the hi side up then the compressor (maybe faulty) to me it appears to be quit awesome pump to get that hi side pressure which means it has to be sucking something in. maybe i have flawed logic. have not seen it all, but that one is a new one on me. thats my logic and i stick to it
@@RATCHETMAN1001 Looks like you’re an hvac guy maybe you can help me out. I replaced my ac condenser with a dealer-aftermarket part. The low side is low to normal(~15psi). The high side, however, is also on the low end(100psi), and the pressure doesn’t want to climb higher than the 100-110psi. The manifold gauge is also fluttering. You think there’s a blockage in the condenser? Low quality part? That would make sense right?
The electric radiator fan should come on whenever AC is turned on. So that needs to be checked and fixed. Also if the compressor did fail internally, then the AC System needs to be flushed to remove debris before new parts are installed.
he replied and said the fan was not the problem, but like you said modern cars will turn it on in ac mode, especially when it sees hi pressure, but i was not their . i would have focused on that fan and showed that before and after repair
ok just going to try to help u. when u first hooked up you have a pressure temp relation ship so i can only assume your temp in your shop is 60 degrees, get you some pt charts, that will help u alot. if your shop was 75 80 degrees u would no its low for sure . if the temp in your shop was 60 and the car temp was the same and you see higher pressures then its over charged or its contaminated. if your machine does not have an identifier its like stds you may pull in contaminated freon in to your tank and then every car you charge from that tank will be contaminating the other cars you service. if it does have an identifier show its use please, and if you get a micron gauge you will no how dry u got the system, a 6k 10 k machine will not show you the dryness of the system. please check into this
also most vehs will turn the fan on with ac on and also when it sees hi side pressure . yep this is 2videos he might should take down.some people will find their mistakes and change and become better i no i use to do ac like him and others until someone showed me my short comings. i gladly love new knowledge and become better. but i bet he will never get a micron gauge and study and become better, and never admit he was wrong. but time will tell. i praise him for his other skills but ac is not his strength. he should not do ac videos until he gets more educated on the subject
@kabihog02 Yes! The condenser was plugged from metal shavings from the compressor, I wish we showed that part on camera, we opened the dryer on the condenser with a cut off the fan was just fine, I appreciate your input, we will make a more detailed video next time!!
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair yes cut the condenser open next time so people can see the micro channels its like its a filter now and show them the flow of refrigerant. it comes in super heat and exits sub cooling at the bottom. if you had taken super heat and subcooling temps it will reveal blockages. and if the drier is in condenser remove it and see if is black that will show an overheated compressor as well . that drier is a filter for moisture only not debris. low refrigerant is what kills the compressor and the oil goes to the evaporator so compressor is starving for oil and the hi temp going in compressor overheats it. maybe off camera start looking at this and temps
sorry but if their was metal blocking the flow u would see the subcooling temps lower and should not see hi pressures from where your gauges are hooked up cause a restriction on hi side will lower the pressure after that restriction if they would put a port on hi side before and after the condenser it would be quick to measure the difference in pressure since they dont thats why superheat and subcooling temp measurement is your friend. ill quit rattling my mouth
hopefully he will review his video and see if the fans are not working you are going to get those readings. and in the second video he should have showed if the fan was running , cause if it still not working he could no way get the better pressures
@dave44052 I appreciate your input, in this car the dryer on the condenser was dirty, I found metal shavings in the dryer after I opened it with a cut off wheel, I should have shown it in the video but just take my word for it and the metal shavings came from the compressor, the compressor was indeed weak, the fan was just fine!