05:10 Whoever replaced the capacitor the last time did not make sure the connections were tight. The capacitor was not the problem. If those stake on connectors slide on loose, you have to tighten them. Loose connections will overheat and melt those wires down.
I'm going to assume that's an issue with Trane when the capacitor goes bad it burns up that orange wire. I kept spare wire just for that purpose. Trane is still the best IMO.
Love the videos. Also love the factory crimps. Not sure I love the nice factory crimps with wire nuts. Would probably just go with a non-factory crimp replacement stakon.
I’ve got an American standard. Condenser shutdown both fan and compressor off .. air inside was still blowing thermostat wouldn’t power off the fan so I unplugged t stat .. replaced these run cap .. then a week later it happened again .. replaced the caps again and clean the condenser coils seems ok now but I tested all the caps and they tested good … could a dirty condenser cause a shutdown ? I’ve got 20degree split on the inside
For high current components like compressor and heat strips, I do the same thing like you using heavy duty factory connectors. But for fan motors I just crimp on a regular cheapo
Use tubing cutter and cut out and save the factory suction tubing inside dead condensers.. The 90s , 45s and 180s ect.. they come in real handy when installing new condenser or evap..
it looks like "Little Jimmy or Timmy" got cooked on top the capacitor, making a shorted path to ground via the capacitor body and clamp to unit case, unless the capacitor itself shorted internally. but looks to me like whatever is burnt on top is the culprit, once burnt and carbon tracked it will continue to pass current through.
