Good video and awesome job. There are a few things that you need to know. Number one when transitioning from PVC to metal. PVC should be male thread and metal should be female thread. If done the opposite way pressure fluctuations at the joint can cause the PVC to expand and contract and tell it breaks. You should paint the PVC pipe to prevent exposure from the Sun degrading it. You need Teflon tape or piped dope on all types of national tapered threads, you do not need it on the garden house but it doesn't hurt. I use pipe dope on plastic thread to keep from cracking the pipe. I use both on metal. thank you for sharing And keep on keeping on.
@@OnceUponaNJGarden I don't think he did things wrong. And it probably works fine. I would just be a little more careful to not get grass or dirt on the fittings before cement. And I think it's recommended to give the pcv a quarter turn before cement dries.
Good video! In place of the drain valve, you can use a 'golfcourse drain' (Lowes). It is a spring-loaded valve that springs shut when water pressure is present, and springs open when pressure is released, automatically. I use them here in eastern Washington State so i don't have to worry about forgetting to drain the lines at freezing time.
This is close to what I meant by golf course drain...these are availiable at Amazon. 'Orbit Irrigation 51039 1/2" Brass Auto Drain'. Also 'Orbit WaterMaster Underground 51241 3/4-Inch Plastic Auto Drain Valve'.
This came in real handy with me starting a raised garden. 2 spigots on my house, but still needed a 100 ft hose to reach. This is much more manageable.
Look in the irrigation section of your local hardware store. Most will have a Garden hose to PVC adapter fitting with the rubber washer. Lowe's and Home Depot both carry them. $2-$3 for a single fitting vs having a bunch of adapters and leader hose. Also in the irrigation section there is whats called an "auto drain", Rain Bird and Orbit both make them. They thread into a 1/2 NPT fitting. Put one at the lowest point and you won't have to worry about draining the system. It will auto drain once the pressure is below 5psi.
The regular leader hose is not rated for constant pressure I used SS Braided hose for my connection. How do you connect at the source without some sort of leader hose?
Use cement on both surfaces just like the primer and twist at least 1/4 turn for every joint when you push them together to ensure a leak free assembly.
Great video 👍 I spend more time dragging hoses (4-5) all over the yard all summer long! Never even occurred to me to do something like this. I just stumbled upon your video and happy I did. 👍
Thank you so much, Timothy, for this video, it really helped me. My spigot is on the other side of the house from where my new veggie garden is so I have to use a 100 ft hose drape across the yard to water the plants. You did an excellent job of explaining everything for a newbie like me, I'm going to do this new project as soon as I get all the supplies.
I'm so excited to have found your video! I needed a spigot in front of my house and had no idea how to do it. Let alone cheaply and pretty easily. And you explained it very well. Thanks!
Very informative video. One useful skill I learned at a City maintenance job was irrigation & plumbing repair. It's even easier now with Shark Bite fittings.
I love DIY pvc stuff, myself. You can use some landscape staples pushed down over the pvc pipe to hold it closer to the house, if necessary. I have a sidewalk that would mean I'd have to run my water hose across it if I do this mod, but that still would be much better than the current single spigot that is on the wrong side of the house. A quick release would likely help if I want to remove the hose to keep it off the sidewalk when not in use. Nice video and explanation. Thanks for sharing it.
I wish I would've seen this video when you uploaded it 3 years ago. But it's never too late, this will be my very next project! Thanks so much for sharing this.
I just used a spade and cut in a 50’ heavy duty Sears black rubber garden hose six inches under the grass out to my garden and up the side of a post to a spigot. From there I also buried more lengths of hose under and looped up and into each of my raised garden beds where it changes over to micro hose to water my veggies. It’s worked fine for going on thirty + years now if you can believe that. (Ran one to the garage shop sink too.) Anyway in the late fall I just use my portable air tank to blow out the lines when I close the pool and do the buried 2 1/4” filter pipes too. (I live in the northeast so emptying them all before the freeze is a must or they WILL burst!) I do like the idea of pvc though. If it has to be seen, that kinda makes it look like it’s supposed to be there… 👍🏼👍🏼 from this guy, thanks for taking us along!
As a temporary convenience, that's clever work done! It does what it's supposed to do and does it affordably. As a permanent fixure... Not so much. Indoor rated pressure pipe won't take many bumps before it shatters after baking in the sun for a couple years. That leader hose isn't rated for sustained pressure, so the original spigot needs to be the main shut off still. I've seen more than my fair share of swollen or exploded leader hoses. Most of the issues could be solved by using the correct equipment to begin with, but that also means more money and work. If it just needs to get you by for a couple years, this is a perfect setup. No need to throw money away if you don't need to.
I’ve never done anything like this before but I feel compelled to go buy hose and pvc pipe, just because I think I could do it successfully! Fantastic instructions.
It will last longer if you bury the PVC around 6" down. It doesn't hold up against sunlight very well. I suggest using galvanized pipe for the above ground portions, like where you come up to attach the hose or spigot.
I am thinking about doinga same thing, but my pvc going under a addition, so ok for sun, but i live in a cold climate part, can get -15C( 5F.). what about that can it handle it ?
@@palangnar3588 well I will say that I have pvc plumbing under our old pier and beam farmhouse in central Texas and this winter when we had the bad freeze where the power grid failed and it was 14 degrees Fahrenheit for three days straight, I had a whole lot of pipes under the house burst. So if you’re not going to bury the pvc pipes, then you need to be sure to insulate them well, especially any horizontally oriented ones. However, you should also be sure to be able to access it to make repairs if they do end up bursting. I’m no expert, but I wonder how pex tubing does in exterior environments? I know it can expand with freezing temperatures but I don’t know if it’s appropriate for under the house/exposed environments.
@@kevinwhite4785 Thank you, yes winter make things bad, anyway i have been using water hose and only use it 7 months of the year, and shut the water down for fall and winter season , i wonder what type of pipes( any type) can handle the cold , very cold good !
Just perfect for my plants this summer with watering!! Thank you!! 💖💖 Edited- I have no water or plumbing experience and this was easy and simple for me to follow.
I was just planning the same thing, but now I've got my shopping list made out thanks to your instructions. For my application, the existing hose bib is the low spot (basement level), so that 6 ft garden hose section will be my cold weather drain as well. Suggestion: for the valve you connected at the T, I would add a little more pipe between. I've seen these valves wear out over time (sun also damages) and a little more pipe will allow you to cut off the old and glue on a new valve.
QUESTION: What is a great way to protect a project like this from extreme SUN HEAT: to lessen or avoid the Sun Damage all together. I'm in an area that the temperature in the summer can range from 95°-110° F!!! 👀👀👀😬😭😆🤣😁 I know that I can do this... All I need to know is: HOW?! Lol 🦸🏽♀️
Always glue the pipe and the fitting 8:42 see how it was hard to slide the pipe into the fitting. Always both sides to ensure you’ll never have a leak! Good video !!
Hi, awesome project I followed from begin to end now I have a 2nd Water hydrant, built deck over my original water spigot, I watched others but you explained sizes and material thank you.🌹❤️
clamp the water pipe in your next projects to the wood with pipe clamps support, also add a back fload system to your pipe for the water that stays in the pipe to not contaminate the water when return to your house.
I am a woman and watching this middle of the night lol. It is remarkable job made easy seem like. I think I will try mine too. Subscribed and like button is yours.
Hi there! Great video! Exactly what i was looking for! Your supplies were very informative and your presentation was easy for me to understand 😀 Thanks again 👍
this is exactly what I needed to know. I have 4 house spigots and hoses everywhere. this will help organize it where I actually need water and I can run shorter hoses as needed. Awesome! thank you
Thank you for this video! Just finished the last of the gluing and waiting for it to cure. We can't wait to turn the water on. No more buckets to water the trees on the hill! :)
I would also add some foam pipe insulation on the pvc in the winter...We live in the northern part and it gets cold/freezing...It might not be a great idea but it could help with freezing pipes...🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
Next time use pvc electrical conduit it comes in schedule 40 its ultra violent resistant and won’t deteriorate from sun exposure and it has flared ends so you won’t have to buy all the couplings. It’s only about a dollar more per joint and will last 10x longer than regular pvc that’s has sun exposure.
Good video! Running pipe lessens the work of dragging 100+ feet of hose to distant corners for sure. A point on water flow, a 1/2 or 3/4" gate valve doesn't always internally open to a full 1/2 or 3/4". Around 5:30 in the vid, those splitter shut on/off valves attached are normally 1/4". internal opening for flow. If you have good pressure at full on but you need more volume (multiple sprinklers on one line) then the upstream devices may be the culprit. They do make full port devices but they aren't budget friendly..
this video was informative and helpful. the person who built my house decided to put the spigot under my front porch which sits like a foot off the ground, it is very difficult to access. I would have preferred to put it at the corner of my house. now I want to add one to the corner of my house and make it more accessible and convenient for my family.
Please use pex it is so much easier bro and the fittings click together no need for glue and the make adapters for the hose .. save some time and money .. I used pex on a line like this and put it under rocks in the flower beds
@@ptravers9077 Some people like the idea of a snap-seal and others prefer things to be glue-sealed. I am certain there is a time and place for both. Perhaps you should get the opinion of a landscaper first.
@@GeoffreyHowells most definitely do own my own landscaping business. Lawn care in the summer commercial carpet cleaning in the winter so most of the time I am mowing or hitting g the floor with a crp moving dirt... and when it comes down to it PVC is old tech no one is using ...pex hose expands if frozen can be bent buried and moved unlike PVC.. hence why we use it in underground systems ... there is never a need for old tech when it is evident that better is out there for a cheaper price...
Don’t apologize for the length of your video! It’s greatly, greatly appreciated as I have no idea beyond pvc what to call the other pieces needed for an extension! I’d be lovely to add in a sprinkler system, however the problem is it’s cost and as of now my priorities are really based having one more line toward the center or a side of the yard for next years garden. I have a long hose but it’s such a pain to unroll and then drag across my yard all for watering plants
Yes, all threaded connections need Teflon tape, or Pipe dope (thread sealant), unless there is a ferrule, gasket or some other thing that's making a water-tight seal. No Teflon or dope on a hose bib, or the hoses or tubes to your sink faucet.
This is exactly what I want to do out to our garden, since the original spigot is behind a fence in a spot that's super inconvenient to get to. Thanks for the easy explanation!
The first connection with the adapter glued up on the wrong side never put it inside a fitting ad it creates a buildup or a dam inside the pipe reducing the flow. Always on the pipe not the inside of the fitting.also very important is a vacuum breaker or backflow preventer so you don’t suction contaminated water back into your house
Ive had this idea in my head for a while.. I knew it could be done but was told it couldn't lol.. thank you so much for the video. Will show it to family
One thing to note is that PVC pipe will become very brittle and break easily after being exposed to the sun for a few years. You could paint it or try using uv resistant pvc.
I don't understand why you went through all that extra expense and effort with PVC. I buy a faucet splitter and a budget priced extra garden hose. I route the budget hose to a remote corner of the property and that hose remains in position. At the far end of that hose I can attach a spigot on a spike, a shut off valve, a quality hose, etc.
Just a suggestion -- you could add Y spliter valve at the first tap and connect the lead hose to one of the outlet. This way you have extra outlet for another hose near the house.
You can collect rain water in a food grade 55 gallon barrel install that valve on the bottom of the barrel and i save money on my water bill. I set the barrel up on 4 cinder blocks and cover the end of my downspout with cheesecloth and cover the top of the drum with the same use a bungee or 2 to gold it on the drum tight. Keeps debris and leaves out of my water. Win win
That terminal gate valve hose bib might be better as a quarter turn ball valve. It's really close to the post and probably difficult to get your hand around. Especially if you plan to put a bracket around the pvc and hold it close to the wood.
Ya I dont u understand why not just keep a hose out .. I mean if the line is above ground what's the point it is still out in the open and in the way.. should have put it in the ground with pex for sure and it would have been way easier
@@ptravers9077 he could have simply direct buried the PVC as well. I understand why you’d want a remote spigot, but I would have hard piped it all the way from the source and buried it. It wouldn’t move, which would lessen the chance of getting the pipe in a bind and cracking, and wouldn’t have to worry about leaks at the hose joints (they will eventually leak, and you’ll have to replace the gaskets). Draining would be a little more involved, but easy enough for the few times you may have to do that in winter.
@@mph7282 I agree I mean I would have used pex but pvc is just as good if not better .. pvc is less likely to be punctured.. but the pex hose if a freeze did happen out of the blue the box does expand .. but I have seen sprinklers be installed with both .. I also understand the need for a spigot away from the house just dont see why you wouldn't just use a hose in this scenario.. if it is above ground and laying there ..a hose would be more convenient and cheaper.
Consider installing a backflow preventer at your first hose connection especially if you are feeding a kennel, stable, or a pressurized watering system such as as green house. In cold climes disconnect your feed at house wall and blow out with air.
Good tutorial. Primer doesn't 'clean' the join, it softens and preps the PVC to accept cement. You need to make sure your joins are clean before priming and cementing.
Thanks for this great "how to" video. Now I can eliminate dragging 100ft of hose around my house. Maybe you could list the parts in the description we need also. Thanks!
Yes. use teflon tape for all threaded connections you intend to be semi-permanent. It doesn't necessarily seal the threads, but it helps you tighten the threads properly by lubricating them.
@@ASliceofWoodWorkshop There are a number of thicknesses of teflon tape. I use the standared white tape and wrap it 4-6 times around the male threads before assembly. The thicker types (one is gray) only typically need 3-4 wraps for the same application. If you see yellow tape, that's made for gas applications, not water.
A suggestion for the standpipe ,I would use half inch galvanized pipe ,3 foot long and then you don’t have to worry about it freezing or degrading the plastic.
Ironically, I just bought all the stuff to do the same thing but using pex rather than pvc. I understand that pex holds up better if you do get a freeze. Having the pipe just laying on the ground is a bit unsightly and gives the weed eater a great target, though. I don't want to bust the pipe so I may raise mine and mount it above grade all the way around with clamps. I've had a hose running around there for 4 years and just leave it..but you know the hose deteriorates in the sun...so it's just a matter of time before the danged thing gives up. Also where you got the riser on a wood post I plan to drive a t-post and mount the pipe to the post.
PEX PIPE - my thoughts exactly - burying it 2 - 4 " underground would be easier ( dont want pipe above ground and down here , freezing wouldnt be a problem ) - havnt priced difference yet , cheaper ? Definately easier to transport in the car
