For a cheap container alternate I dye blasters in disposable aluminum baking pans. And since they’re metal you can heat the water directly in them if you want.
I highly recommend the Jacqard iDye Poly for Nylon. It's much easier to set up, no measuring. I dye directly in the pot. Immersion heaters are *faboo* for getting the water hot fast and safe.
Great dye from what I've read! You'll still need to measure water if you'd like to keep colors consistent from batch to batch as saturation in the solution will determine dye color.
I dyed some Worker Talons using a similar method, but you have to add a small amount of Acetone for those to take dye so there's more safety precautions necessary. I also warped my first batch putting them directly in the pot, so I wouldn't recommend doing that for clear worker plastic
yes, but if you dye the translucent ones you'd get dye on the inside. That actually has me curious how that would look if you just dyed the inside of those somehow. . .
The Harrier and Seagull are ABS, so while they can be dyed, you'll need to look up specifics. Need to be careful not to melt or warp the ABS as well, since it has a lower glass transition temp.
@@outofdartsfrom my research for ABS it’s a 2 part water, 1 part acetone mixture with just hot water from your tap. I would LOVE a follow up video of you guys demonstrating if your willing!’
Is there a way to prevent dye bleed after the process? I know with RIT & fabric, they make a dye fixative product. I'm looking for a way to seal the dye in.
Dye fixative is not necessary on a plastic product like the Koda mags unless you intend to boil the mags again. They won't bleed on their own in ambient temperature.
If you add a bit of acetone you can dye clear talon mags, but you have to be more careful since ABS has a lower glass transition temperature than nylon and warps really easy if you dye them directly in the pot
