The pins are correct but the bluetooth is muting the tda7492 so u need to add a +3.3v on the r22 resistor .On top of the board near the bluetooth board on the edge is r22 and u can get 3.3 v from the nearby condenser on my board is not marked (next to D5).
good stuff was trying to figure out the pin out meanings. for your case, you should be able to deal with the buzz by adding a switch between your auxiliary Jack and the pins on the Bluetooth board. ideally, you would actually sever the connection from those pins to the rest of the circuit. have those 4 pins head to an A/B style switch and your auxiliary Jack also going to that switch and the output of that switch would continue on where the connection to the rest of the circuit was severed. obviously this would be a bit more of a risk for damage. anyways, thanks for the video, couldn't figure out which pins I was looking for. and to answer the guy who asked why bother with the wires...because the auxiliary will provide a far greater audio quality than Bluetooth.
Some of these boards are setup so that the bluetooth module switches the amplifier off if there is no bluetooth device connected. This means that the amp will not play if you connect a different audio source.
Great vid man, just 2 things: 1) The amp is 50+50 PEAK 2) The output is on BTL so you should be really carefull with what you mean by "100W total" cause you can't just make a 100W mono amp "adding" the two outputs
The easiest way to eliminate hum picking from audio jack is to add a 100 to 1k ohm resistor across signal and ground. If you touch the metal part of the jack and hear a loud noise, this is the type of hum this method can solve. However, since you're connecting audio in to audio out of CSR8635, I am not sure whether this will work in this case.
According to the CSR 8635 datasheet those pins are dedicated to speaker (so output not input). This is maybe why it sort of works but not perfectly... also a not plugged in jack will always give you a hum....so you need a switch or a switchable jack.
Hi, so I saw this a week ago and got excited. Today I've soldered it all up. I'm having some issues, would you mind helping me? My first problem is that the speakers are not louder but quieter, too quiet. They aren't anywhere near as loud as they should be (like they are with Bluetooth). Also if I turn the volume up too much then the amp cuts out. Do you have any idea what's causing this or how to fix it? Thanks in advance!
you can get female auxiliary jack and solder it in place of the male jack that should eliminate the static (environmental) noise and its not 50w per channel its 25w per channel as its tda7294p, tda7294 is 50w per channel
Hello ! Thanks for the video :) Do you know if it is possible to control volume with a potetiometer?? I have checked everywhere :) controling play and skipcommands is cool but with a potentiometer it would be awsome :) cheers
Someone mentioned that joining pin 8 and pin 10 will always activate input so that you can get rid of the annoying buzzing. But don't quote me it. I just found an old one that I want to use for this.
I am considering buying the TDA4792P Bluetooth board. I have a 4 ohm speaker that has an RMS of 30Watts and Peak Power Handling of 60Watts so should I buy the 2x50W version or the 2x25W version as it says 'best at 8 ohms'. Does that mean it will be 2x100W at 4 ohms? Please help. It would be appreciated. : )
@chainmaillekid i did same thing for one channel (using only 1 speaker), but sound is terrible, only high frequencies. Do you have any idea why? I've also tried line in, but seems it is disabled
My SANWU board comes with audio in socket however when i plug in the cable nothing happens. It does pick up aome audio in just in few sec before bluetooth activates and then it only works on BLUETOOTH.
Yeah, I got one that did that. I think its just defective. Lately I've been favoring this board from parts express www.parts-express.com/TPS3116D2-Class-D-2.1-Bluetooth-5.0-Amplifier-Board-2-x-50W-100W-with-Filter-and-Volume-Co-320-635
Having the same issue, the audio in suposed to work once you disconnect bluetooth but it doesn't.
8 лет назад
Try to use PIN 32 and 33 (LINE_BP and LINE_BN) this is the natural connection for it. You will also need to activated by swich. Take a look in page 68 of the datasheet www.datasheetq.com/datasheet-download/881998/0/CSR/CSR8635
The first thing I would suspect would be the power source. Is it turning off while playing audio, or is it shutting off while not being used? Or in other words does power draw seem to be a factor?
Anyone know how to get rid of the start up sounds on these kind of boards? I think this one is just a few beeps, but I have a blue board similar and it has some woman's broken English telling me what mode it's in but it's annoying as all fuck! Wanna get rid of the voice. Any help?
Hello all Has anyone tryed linking 2 of these devises so that you can hook up 4 speakers instead of just 2? The only reason I'm asking isthis is because I have 2 of these amplifiers and don't want to purchase a 4 channel amp.
Not if you were connecting over bluetooth I don't think. Not unless you were to really go crazy with it, like somehow running the bluetooth module to both boards. What sort of setup are you doing where you're needing 4 channels?
Hello chainmaillekid I have 4 polk outdoor speakers , that I want to use on my outdoor living space, and don't want to spend on purchasing a 2-$300 wifi receiver. So since I have 2 of these 100w (2x50) amps. My thought is to somehow link these two units. I was thinking of disabling the Bluetooth of one of the units and soldering the Bluetooth of the other to the disabled one so that the two amps respond to one single Bluetooth receiver. What do you think. Have you tried doing this before?
Haven't tried doing it before, but I think there's probably a way to make it work. You wouldn't need to connect the whole bluetooth bit, you really should only need to connect the output. Instead of trying to connect it to a second unit that has its bluetooth removed or disabled, you should be able to find a TDA7492P or some other amp without bluetooth on it, otherwise you may need to unsolder the whole bluetooth board to prevent any weird behavior. Another ( and simpler ) option is to just connect all the speakers up in 2 channels on one amp. If your polk speakers are 8 ohm you should be able to connect 2 in parallel with each other w/o problems. If they're 6 or 4 ohms you'll need to connect them in series.
I have one of these boards in a cut in box at my back door wired to 2 polk outdoor speaker and I cant turn it up too much or the whole neighborhood can hear its loud enough for me and I like to crank it and half dead because of it.
I mean, They're don't work miracles. But I think they still sound pretty good. Gets a bit noisy when you push it, etc, but they let you push pretty hard. At normal volumes, nobody will notice noise unless they stick their ears up to the speakers to listen for it.
Jaime De la Torre I was thinking of doing this to preserve my device battery as well as to make it easier to hook to other devices. I would have to go through a Bluetooth transmitter for my scanner (police/EMS) as well as my small mp3 player or low end tablet. I enjoy wireless but sometimes good old wires make more sense
Whole house audio. Bluetooth is slower than a wired. Music on the bluetooth speaker is slower than the wired speaker. In my case music outside doesn't match what is in the house. A bummer for parties.
