Adding New Cat6A Ethernet Network Cable Around the House! Thanks to FS for Sponsoring this Install! 

Was reacting the same way as you, it could also be other factors to staggering, but nice to make it as routine to both secure the cables properly to the fishing rod end, normaly i dont trust alone, like to cut off the sheating and make a small knot also with 2 pairs.

Don't forget to rub on the dawn soap on the taped cords. You will never have a cord snag in a tight spot.

It was on purpose, just to elicit a response/post.

you can cut the tip/end of the cable on an angle along with the staggering of the cables and it'll naturally cause the cone shape and pull easily up the wall without getting snagged on anything

Couldn't they just check what MAC address the camera uses and emulate it?

Just turn on port isolation. I have that turned on for all my cameras and put them on their own VLAN. Then firewall rules so that only the NVR is on the default network.

Next time

Definitely taper or stagger (the term we use) the cables like Allister suggests but what I also do is cut all my cable ends on an angle which makes a nice smooth head when you stagger the cables.

I did leave enough not sure if your confusing two different moments or not

@@SPXLabs It wasn't long enough to be considered a service loop.

There is always that one person that loves it. I was thinking of you!

Was this a poem?

This comment is gold!!!

Also helps to tape a label to the string with the length of the run. Can help order the right length if you need to run a pre-terminated cable in the future, like a fiber patch in the future.

The magnepull makes life way easier

I don't see a need for plenum rated cable since none of it was run in a plenum. Attics in houses are normally not plenums, and you can see he has typical supply and return ducts.

Next time!

that protects your head but what about your back?

You won’t get tetanus from it, just scratches and cuts. Tetanus comes from bacteria found on the ground and not rust like many think. Bump caps are worth it though in keeping your noggin scratch free

Bruh, I had an hour and 58 minutes of video, mostly terminating. My hands and fingers had so many cuts from nails and splintered wood, so holding those tiny wires to slide them into the RJ45 connector was brutal. And I only did it 6 times. The reason the video just seems to jump from TV to 2 outdoor runs is because I was just so over lugging the camera up and down the ladder to the attic lol. Most of the video was uninteresting too, I think. Just pulling and pushing cable around.

And as an IT contractor, Cat6A was a terrible choice anyway. I know he got it for free so I guess in that regard it makes sense but from a choice standpoint, a 4k UHD stream is around 25 Mbps. Most smart TVs only have a 100 Mbps NIC anyway. Cat5e is already 10x overkill for that. Then stepping up to Cat6, you can get gigabit, and even 10 gigabit up for 40 meters, which would be 100x overkill. Then stepping up again to A would simply give a longer range, 100 meters, on that pointless 10 Gbps. So many people online say to "future proof" and buy the biggest, most expensive cable, but that's really dumb. 5e is fine for 99% of end user applications, 6 is overkill. 6a is just double overkill. And when you consider that 5e has been around for over 20 years, and is STILL overkill for most end user things, if puts into perspective just how useless your "overkill" solution really is. Again, if I'm getting the cable for free I'll use it, but there's absolutely zero reason to buy it. It just hurts your wallet and is a harder job for the exact same performance.

Yup all of this. Which none of which I talked about or mentioned. Just got some free cable and installed it.

@@user-nh3gu1ge3d I went with CAT6 in my home because it wasn't that much more expensive over CAT5E and that way my house if secured for 10GB in the future if I want to. You are right in saying it is overkill maybe for the next 5 to 10 years until you start getting devices capable of 8K. But I mean that will take a hell of a lot of time before we get there. Do you need 10GB right now in homes? Probably not, it is too expensive anyway. I think the next logical step is 2.5gb for homes and that would be good for people who need it. But the problem is that there are not many products out there for 2.5Gb. I haven't seen a single 24 ports 2.5gb switch yet. As an IT contractor, you most have installed plenty of cable right? I have a question for you. As per code, running wires in walls require PLENUM cable. So I'm using CAT6 plenum. But I was often faced with issues doing my termination, in preparing the wires, it would happen once in a while one of the wires would break!! Is that something common?

@@ptessier73 I actually ran Cat6 in my house as well, but for reasons similar to yours. It's definitely overkill. Even 5e is overkill for 99% of end user devices. Your smart devices, cameras, etc. are all 100 Mbps max so even cat5 would be fine. But I typically have 10 boxes of cable on hand and, before CV screwed everything up, the difference in price was only like 25 bucks or so (around 125 vs 150 bucks for 1k ft). I also felt a little better about using a thicker gauge wire for POE, though I'm sure there's no real difference. 6 is also more tightly wound so better for cross talk and things like that, but you shouldn't really have that issue anyway. If you're laying your wiring on top of florescent lights, then that's an install issue anyway. And even 8k streams will only use about 100 Mbps, so again, there's just no reason for it most of the time. 10 gig is good for mass devices, infrastructure like switches, servers that serve multiple/many clients, huge data transfers like video editing. The bandwidth required for even the highest definition streaming is minimal, audio is nothing, gaming is nothing, etc. Basically the most common thing that needs gig to 10 gig is video editing and huge file transfers, like if you are moving around 100 gig files, stuff like that. Even moving 100 gigs on a cat5e will "only" take a minute and a half so not that bad. When you go 10 gig then you need MASSIVE infra spending because you've got to upgrade every switch in the chain, every NIC, every device. If ANY device is slow then it will bottleneck the whole thing. Even your standard HDD is only around 150 MB/s so that can't even keep up with a 10 gig cable. That can barely saturate a 1 gig line. So you'll have to use solid state storage and if you're working with 100 gig files, that means you need tons and tons of space, like 50-100 TB of solid state hard drives, and you need redundancy, etc. you're talking about tens of thousands of dollars per server like that, thousands on switching, etc. The most that a "pro-sumer" like me would do at home would be a direct connect from a cheaper server to a PC, with a small, single digit 10 gig switch, and just let the HDD RAID be the bottleneck. Very fast but not "large enterprise" fast. As to your question about the plenum, almost all the cable I run is "riser" not plenum. Plenum costs way more and is only used for plenum spaces, to put it simply, air circulation. You don't have to use plenum in walls or ceilings or pretty much anywhere UNLESS it's inside an air duct or certain ceiling air spaces (like if you have drop ceilings that have air supply or returns that will suck in the air from that space). Long story short, it's again one of those "almost never" things. I know the Safety Sally's will come out of the woodwork and tell me how wrong I am and blah blah blah but I'm telling you. I worked in a data center before and we used many vendors and whenever we got quoted runs, it was always riser cable. You had to specifically ask for plenum and then it would be vastly more expensive. YMMV. It's the same cable, it's just the sheathing is slightly less toxic when it burns. But guess what, smoke is toxic 😆! Whatever you're burning, if you're breathing that in, you're in for a bad time. I get it if it's in an air vent or whatever but like I said, in most cases it doesn't make a noticeable difference. You may have company or insurance requirements though, they may require you to run plenum in the ceilings for liability purposes but we never did. Maybe we are a bit too "cowboy", I dunno. And finally, to answer your question about the wire breaking, it sounds like you scored the sheathing a bit too deep. If you cut around the sheathing and dig too deep, it cuts into the copper wire and absolutely, it will snap off. Hope that answers your question. Whew!

Oh nice. I should probably look into HDMI over ethernet. What equipment are you using to accomplish your setup? I'm in the early planning stages of how I want to get audio and video to and from the TV and am looking for any recommendations or just general insight to existing setups.

haha wow! nice. Doing this stuff during winter is definitely a fun project.

Yeah I didn’t think of it till way to late. They are labeled in the other end.

this guy cables

also instead of pulling that reference first run back all the way just add extra pull length the wall height to get the other 3 up

Use a magnespot, has a little sharp in with a bunch of magnets attached. Then a locater one uses from other side. Can locate within 2" or so. No holes to patch, paint to touch up etc...and they're cheap

Big fan of the WRX and of course STI. Thanks, I am in Huntsville, Alabama. I don't remember the R value for the insulation but there is about 14 inches except for the areas I disturbed.

It was a Ubiquiti UVC G3 Pro. Well for my network closet it's all ubiquiti everything. Because it's an ecosystem and everything works well. For other people, that is a super loaded question, because I have no idea what your expectations are, your goals, wants, needs, and desires. Are you technical, and even if so are you more of a lazy admin who wants to set it and forget it or are you a I must control every facet of each piece of tech admin.

I Watch that milk drinker all the time, him and all his team killing shenanigans.

Have fun!

I actually never noticed that’s awesome

Can’t go wrong with an 5.1.4 Dolby Atmos setup

It's called a kellum grip

@@johnolsen3341 That may be ONE name for it

You should see the pink ones

@@SPXLabs I NEEEEEEEEED IT!

These are the rods I bought, amzn.to/3CwtjTN

Moca is a great simple easy thing to do. Most of the time I just recommend that to folks over running wire because it's cost effective and most people don't watch cable tv anyway.

Pretty cool to get down to Florida and be apart if it

🤣😂Indeed that was hilarious. And the look he gave her.. LMAO.

I love everything about running cable, except for actually running cable lol. She may or may not have been partially nude.

I don’t understand? I ran 4 cables behind the tv.

@@SPXLabs did you run the cables from the office, up to the attic, down to the room? Then also ran more wire for camera's, the curious part would be why not add a patch panel to the attic, so you don't have to keep doing more runs from the wiring closet to the attic in the future.

I ran a bunch of cables yeah. I have never thought about that. That’s way too smart for me lol. Hmm. Good idea though for real

There are a ton of dependencies, generally the easiest less painstaking way to go between floors is to just run the cables along the exterior of the house and drill through the house exterior and interior walls.

That they do

My iPhone 13 Mini

I'll give these a try when I run out of connectors. Thanks for the heads up!

Who follows that?

that ONLY applies to firewalls/barriers, and you only need to fill it with material that matches the rating of the wall that was penetrated. Unless any of the wood was treated with fire resistant coating (which most residential construction is not) there is no fire rating, ergo no fire resistant caulk is needed. The code you may be referring to isn't really about smoke, its about maintaining the fire wall's rating to prevent heat and fire from spreading, also the code you are referring to is for commercial establishments and apartment complexes. It is still recommended he fill in the remaining space of that hole with an insulation foam to prevent a break in the insulation. Also at no point do we let anyone slide by stuffing some insulation in the hole for the reason i mentioned earlier, that is a violation 100% of the time, no other inspector, including myself, that I know of ever let that slide

@@Fireguy473 I had a job for 3yrs walking around with inspectors. I don't know where you are but it's NOT only a firewall. It was any floor penetration. The firewalls had to be firecaulk

Used to be common practice to stuff mineral wool in them. Maybe not in all regions.

I suppose so

I’ve read about that but haven’t experienced it until maybe now.

I've started using pass through. Use a regular crimper, pull wires Trim with a flush diagonal cutter. Pull wires back slightly so don't protrude then crimp. No extra tools to buy or carry

Man I never would have thought of anything like that even if I had all of those things sitting in front of me

Thanks!

Yes, all the stripes exist for orange, green, blue, and brown. I'm fairly color impaired and in real life they are very vibrant and visible.

I explained it in the video

Hey I was just looking at that today. I’ll keep that in mind. I still do not know what I’m going to do to this day

I missed it. amzn.to/3NN5BaC

cat5e will do 2.5/5G up to 100 meters, so you probably don't need to upgrade the backbone at all. I have cat6a run all over the house (mostly unnecessarily) but in my office I must have it so I can do 10Gb (1GBps) because of all the youtube videos I make and am constantly saving on my home server. If you do ever move to 10G then cat6a will be most appropriate, especially for long cable runs.

There is a piece of wood that extends out that I screwed the mount into. I have other cameras that are screwed into the soffit and have been fine. Over the last couple years the driveway camera has survived several thunderstorms with winds of 50mph or more and it’s screwed into the soffit

@@SPXLabs therefore, you probably were able to get at least two of the three screws into the wood 2x4, correct? *Which I believe would securely fasten the camera--did you use the third screw into the sheet metal or leave it out?

I’m not aware of a third screw being provided by Ubiquiti. Just using two. Got hit by tornado winds last night and all cameras survived

It depends on size and length of the cable runs. Unshielded cat6 is fine most of the time but if you can afford it just go for Cat6a. shielding is pointless in a non scientific environment

Yeah I watch that milk drinker anytime I get a chance. I do play Tarkov when I have time.

That’s honestly not a terrible idea. It’s either that or tear up dry wall, drill holes through studs, and then patch and paint everything back uo

Man that’s really cool you had 5e. I would have loved to have Ethernet everywhere I lived

Dang 15 years ago I was in high school. That's pretty sweet that you were able to install it so long ago. Back then we had just transitioned from telephone lines to ethernet, I believe plain old cat5. Anyway, it's more than good enough for me. Cheers!

Cat6 is perfect for typical home use. Much better than cat5e. You did good.

@@SPXLabs used shielded ones, because internet wires were alongside with mains wires

Probably a good idea. If there is a lot of electrical I’ve hear interference is possible.

@@Gameplayer55055 Many long time experts say yes...shielded is a good theory...in reality...don't worry about it. In a home it's extremely rare to ever be an issue

@@mrmotofy many mains wires scared me and in local stores shielded cables were just a bit more expensive

It’s klien headlamp. Couldn’t tell you anything else about it except it charges via USB C

Because they gave me 1000 feet of cable and well I’m already doing the work may as well run more. Also I like the idea of having dedicated connections back to the server closet. I’m only using 2 ports currently.

That’s definitely a possibility.

On the plus side there are some channels out there that show how extremely well. And probably more entertaining than me too

That's a good idea actually. So far, no consoles only Apple TV which is mounted behind the tv. a Receiver will go in the network closet in the future.

That is what I did When I did my place, 4 to each TV location, One at the TV and 3 at rhe Bottom

I don’t think they designate between the two. But I use these and they work fine. amzn.to/3zPES7v

@@SPXLabs Thankyou

Assuming your smart tv has an Ethernet port, yes it’s possible. A simple Ethernet CAT5e cable should be more than perfect for the job.

​@@SPXLabsthanks alot

Like by a professional?

I just made a vid about the basics of home networking and there's lots of info in there as well as more in the pinned comment

It's better and easier to just run a new cable from inside the house to the outside the house and back inside. Otherwise consider paying a professional to do it right. Otherwise you will just have headaches from the shortcut you are asking about. Alternatively if you have COAX in your home, you can buy a pair of these and get internet to another room with it. amzn.to/45Xup87

I haven’t purchased any yet

There are some walkways already up there but the vast majority of it, I am just carefully stepping on the existing studs.

@@SPXLabs I call that the "calves will be sore for the next week" approach to attic work 😂

At my age, it’s sore all over.

@@SPXLabs Time to ask your wife for a back rub.

“Well Jules, the funny thing about my back is that it’s located on my …..”

My man!

Not silly. A single gang mounting bracket.

@@SPXLabs is there any specific one you recommend? Or is whatever I find at the local hardware store good enough?

amzn.to/3VXDbwX This one

Hell yeah! It will pay off in the long run so I'm glad that I had to opportunity to do this. What do you want me to blow? oh never mind misread that.

@@SPXLabs Made me spit my coffee out, you owe me a new keyboard ! Sending you an Invoice for replacement !

You have my address!

@@SPXLabs On my way !

I labeled them

Optical fiber is the absolute best. You should choose cable based off your needs or wants.

If you care about cost then I would base this on the equipment you are using. There is no need to install a higher grade cable if your equipment cant max out or come close to the cables capabilities. If cost isnt an issue, then I would install a higher grade cable to be future proof.

@@SPXLabs sorry for the very beginner question but how does this integrate with current Wi-Fi equipment? For example, if I'm running an ubiquiti dream machine pro with Wi-Fi 6 access points throughout the house those devices don't communicate on fiber optic do they?

The type of cable is irrelevant for communication purposes. Devices talking to devices is all handled by routing tables.

@@SPXLabs what I'm asking is, do you plug a fiber optic cable directly into these end devices or some kind of converter to go back to Ethernet jack rj45 at the point of device?

Too late

iPhone 13 Mini

The long term game plan is to have just an Apple 4k tv behind the tv. The other 3 are just because

@@SPXLabs ok I was jw. I ran everything through a Yamaha AV receiver so only thing that runs up to mine is a HDMI, power, and 1 Cat 8. I have a small switch in the cabinet for tv, Xbox, receiver, router, etc but I’m hoping to do away with the lower cabinet completely and just run a rack in another room.

One day I plan to have the receiver and junk all in the rack like you. The Apple TV should be the only thing on the tv side. I’ll probably ended up with two active hdmi cables, one from the Apple TV to the receiver and then one to the tv.

Yup I know

In this house it isn’t too bad. If I was crawling and it was summer I would not be smiling

Oh neat, I thought it may have been there to keep water from getting in or something stupid lol. Thanks for the details. I got plenty of extra at the moment. Come on by.

Just holds back insulation from blocking air flow or the insulation from falling down into soffit since it can be 15" thick or so up there