How To Hide TV Power Cord And Cables | Easy Way To Move An Outlet 

I'm not a professional but I couldn't agree with you more on this video!!! I guess I'm gonna have to watch more of his videos now!!!

I agree that he articulates as well and is concise with good flow. A few more pointers: 1) Every home owner or contractor (up sell and QA opportunity) needs to keep documentation of any modifications or anytime you have to open a wall (especially if you do good work) that saves a ton of headache later and adds to resell value is to keep a notebook of modifications and where things are (digital is best so you can add photos easily). 2) Protection is a good idea such as nail plate or he used "Easy Guards" inside the stud which neither protect the Romex behind the dry wall not in studs like conduit which based on the location behind the floor trim isn't likely so documentation comes into play instead. 3) I agree with @No1Sonuk, always have cheap non conductive fire resistant string to add easy access cord pullers to tie to box/romex/cables. Tag it, you can buy 1000 of these for like $2, I bought the ones that double as anchors/mag guide compatible since tech is constantly upgraded, 500 for $8. 4) @EverydayHomeRepairs, A list of bare minimum common household tools and then recommended would be nice since you articulate so well and probably already have a database where you keep track of some of these things for analytics and recycling content, its a simple export paste or AI tool. 5)@gerrymcintosh4477, I agree, a quick mention of Spackle and printable chalk would have been good and can still refer to who you support for details. 6) Recessed box options: box extenders, angled nail Electrical Boxes, Sandwich style boxes, 2-gang Recessed TV Box (use generic search terms like low voltage or Multimedia Outlet for 3rd or half priced boxes compared to marked up marketing schemes), and pro tip of Outlet Spacers to bring to Code. 7) @chadm1978, agreed, clipping nails does take less time but I like to bend the nails or clip and grind if its not a big area. 8) @richarda3659, agreed quite often times TV's are mounted on an outside wall and a couple of considerations should be taken into account as well an insulation and house breathing air flow considerations where common thought would be to seal it up tight but extra considerations and tax benefits of updating insulation one room at a time might be very beneficial in which case your tax credit allowance.

A good salesman. Most videos promoting products l, some useless like this

What happened to the horizontal 2X4 at 4 feet, holding straight the 2 studs?

Easy when u have dry wall. Also u should insulate your earth cables

My thoughts exactly. Simplest method always the best.

7:07 Electrician or not, this is NOT the way to cut off the sheathing.

Thanks for the support!

Which is probably the most difficult part of the project.

Came to the comments to see if someone asked this!

Fish tape.

@@mattfleming86 But did he have to take that box out first to fish it up to the hole? Or did he fish it through a hole in the outlet box?

I've always struggled to do this. I personally have just always found it easier to rip the old box out and put in an old work box with the cables routed into it(if next to a stud, I prefer getting the old/new work boxes that can be screwed into the stud from inside the box)

Yes. Cutesy stuff gets in the way. The directions flow well and are easy to follow.

Exactly. Watching I liked how the romex magically came into the original box. That had to be a chore.

It seemed he dropped the Romex from the new box, pushing it down the short distance to the original box. Am l correct??

​@@lynneldridge7661 Yes, that would be the best, most logical way to do it.👍 For whatever reason he didn't show that. 🤔

@@tompeters4234 yes I kept re-watching and looking for the part of how the Romex suddenly appeared behind original box

I wondered how he magically got that wire into the original box! Wouldn't he need to break a new tab off in the back to fit it in?

As a DIYer, it's not even just knowing where to find tools, but even knowing said tools exist, which is something you just pick up on over the years. I can't even count the number of times I've said, "holy crap there's a tool for that?"

I noticed that too. How did he fish the wire from the top box to the floor?

When using pry-bar place a 1/4" board between the wall and pry-bar so you don't gouge the wall from pressure point with pry-bar. Try and put prybar right above where trim nails are located so the trim doesn't split.

I would rather leave it as it is lol

That’s funny I just thought “this seems easy enough” then I look down at comments & see this lol

It is easy. Just take your time. I'm an over 60 woman and I did it with my bedroom tv. Also ran speaker wires in our living room for our ancient surround sound system.

It's not particularly exhausting or strenuous maybe some tedium. Though

Mrchaker13's channel has an easier video, you don't have to change or connect electricity cables.

I agree, a quick mention of Spackle and printable chalk would have been good and can still refer to who you support for details.

👍

did you?

@@wendyandmatthew8637 😂😂

Totally agree and thanks for the feedback!

You have to just dig through the concrete.

I have wet plaster, what tool would work on t hat?

I agree, always have cheap non conductive fire resistant string to add easy access cord pullers to tie to box/romex/cables. You can buy tags for it, you can buy 1000 of these for like $2, I bought the ones that double as anchors/mag guide compatible since tech is constantly upgraded, 500 for $8.

Huh?

Twisting the ground wires is actually more secure than using wire nuts. But Wago is much nicer.

Seems to be a standard around here. Almost every installation I have seen has had all the ground conductors twisted into a group. The good part is that you know the ground conductors have really good contact, but it's a real mess of copper in the back of the box. I'm 50/50 on cleaning it up or just leaving the thing that works alone, depending on the nature of the work I'm doing and how much energy I have to "correcting" it (I use quotes because twisting all the ground wires together tightly is a really reliable connection, so it's not wrong).

@@natehoy6924 I can see it being 'standard' but is it to code according to the time the house was built? And once seen, should it be left like this? I live in a house built about 1968, like most other houses in my neighborhood. I've lost count of the # of outlet boxes where twisting the grounds was done, which I then corrected to wire nuts (and now wago's). When we remodeled out kitchen I was very diligent about this;

Iòujj BBB bb bb bb hi😢🎉ttghh him

Thanks!

Big facts. I have huge problems with stink bugs. OMG. I hate them!

Agreed, the recessed kits are the way to go, and an opportunity to run an HDMI cable down the same cavity with no actual additional work was a big miss. Even if not going with a recessed KIT, it should have been a recessed OUTLET so the TV could fit flat to the wall with a standard plug. It was a good DIY video, but a terrible AV/Tech video.

@@FHL-Devils He mentions the junction box at the end for additional wiring. Guess he just had no need so didn't do it here.

@@davidp6839 - Except that it's against code to have 120 and Low/No voltage wiring in the same box. There would be no viable way to create an HDMI / Optical run without repeating the process almost from scratch.

@@FHL-Devils Looked like a separate box/plate, so wires would be separate. More of a cover than a box, just access for AV wiring.

@@FHL-Devils Yeah he simplified it by claiming the TV didn't need HDMI any more because all content was being streamed wirelessly over WiFi, which is fine when that's the case, but a lot of times it isn't, and then it gets more complicated.

This is what I do. 👍

Exactly no need to move Trim for this task..

Beat me to it. Exactly how I did it in my home. There is no need to have the plug centered behind the TV, it just needs to be _anywhere_ behind the TV. Arguably, it's much better being closer to one side or the other of the TV, so that you can simply reach your hand a short way in from the side to unplug it, if need be, without unmounting the entire TV.

i was going to say the same thing,no need to pull trim and drill holes in studs.

How would you get the other end of the electrical cable routed to the other outlet (safely) if you didn't drill through the intervening studs?

I always hate when my scuddilywumpus gets in the way of my didgeridoo.

@Phillip Banes fair points.

I’m a little surprised the walls woudln’t have noggins (or cross braces) at intervals. The height of a wall is a long way without bracing. Is it assumed the dry wall is doing that job?

what gauge is that wire? Seems pretty heavy duty for a regular 110v socket which I guess you’re normally only ever pulling 1.5kw off?

@@MrKlawUK 12 Gauge

Thanks 👊

Why not run romex from the top and let gravity help you out?

Ik denk precies hetzelfde😂

Question for those wago connectors. This is my first time seeing them and I know very little about electrical. How do those switches know where to run power? Because wasn't that outlet a 4 way? (I believe 4 ways just mean it ties into something else in line, another putler or switch). When he did the 3 together into the wago and only 1 out, how does that affect the other things in line? Because if you wire them wrong the tester will say hot reversed/neutral reversed /etc. Love the idea but just bought a new house and while ill drop the money right now to do this, I don't wanna burn my house down lol

@@adm5163 So you have one black wire that brings power to the right outlet. When you connect it to a Wago with other black wires, those all are now energized, so the black wire that's going to the new outlet now has power. He branched off a single wire to the outlet on the right to energize it. It's the same principle with the neutrals and grounds. When connected with a Wago, they are unified, probably a better word, and all serve the same function. Any help?

@@Brian-Burke thank you and sorry I may have phrased that wrong. I understand that it unifies them (which is awesome and easy). But let's say in my home I do this, and there's 4 wires coming off the back of an outlet. 1 set is coming in to power the outlet and 1 set is going out to power something else correct? My question is why does it matter which wire goes where without the wago but when you use one it doesn't seem to affect the incoming/outgoing (polarity?) wires?

It does matter, regardless of whether you use Wagos or wire nuts. All a Wago does is provides an easy way to pigtail two or more wires together. When an outlet is in a string that feeds just feeds on to the next box, the electrician will often use the two provided brass screws to fasten the two black wires and the two silver screws to fasten the neutral wires. In this circuit, he was adding an outlet in parallel, so there will be three black wires, three white wires and 3 ground wires. This requires pigtailing to fasten all wires properly.

Especially because the trim nails go into the studs pretty much exactly where the Romex passes through them. I'd almost think to use industrial adhesive on the back of the floor molding instead of nails, as that would be far safer, though more difficult to remove later on if it became necessary..I also felt the 1.25" holes drilled through the studs might unnecessarily compromise the structural integrity of the studs.

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Then you are better off just using clips in the wall. You won't be able to completely hide them, but the result will be much cleaner

And re-caulk it

They make strong magnets with a leader on it. You can tie a pull rope to the leader (search AMZN for MAGNEPULL XP1000-6), then from the outside of the drywall, you put another strong rare earth magnet and just walk the magnet up. It'll pull the magnet right up the wall pushing the insulation out of the way. Or you can buy a pull (fish) rod that's flexible. Tie a pull rope to it and push it from the new junction box (at the top) and push it down to where the trim was. Untie the pull rope and us it to pull the new romex.

agreed quite often times TV's are mounted on an outside wall and a couple of considerations should be taken into account as well an insulation and house breathing air flow considerations where common thought would be to seal it up tight but extra considerations and tax benefits of updating insulation one room at a time might be very beneficial in which case your tax credit allowance.

Some require any addition to a circuit be ARC fault or GFCI protected. Source outlet gets swapped. (Worse yet, some counties require the breaker then be ARC/GFCI. Gets fun if you have a Zinsco. Your little project just got expensive)

....... And nail plates on the studs. Next guy to come along to do a higher profile baseboards is going to shoot brads through that Romex.

​@@shmellit123he used EZ Guard thru the studs.

I doubt if they are as puncture resistant as standard protective plates. @@anonymous.369

For sure, I need more practice with those flexible auger bits.

I guess if the block winds up being right in the middle, you might have no choice but to cut more drywall.

In UK there’s pretty much always a horizontal timber halfway up each gap.

Same here - I just give up and cut another hole in the drywall for my right-angle drill bit adapter and then patch the extra hole.

Never seen a house without fireblocks between studs half way between the floor and the ceiling.

I wanted to see that as well.

This was a DIY project with (relatively speaking) very low current draw, and while I agree that this technique may not strictly meet code in all States, it's probably quite safe regardless, especially on what was presumably an inside, non load-bearing wall.

@@richarda3659 So, codes are just gentle guidelines that one can choose to ignore when one feels they are not necessary? I won't say that I have been 100% code compliant on every DIY project that I have ever done. However to not say anything at all about codes in the video is a concern, I think. 20 years ago, I wouldn't have even known to ask the code question. And, someone might 'leverage' this video and the technique to do something more dangerous than what was shown here.

There are differences in the NEC between new and old work. Is there a different requirement for wire securing that is old work?

He checked both outlets to verify neither had power.

You bet, best of luck with your project 👍

and getting around fire blocks

@@jeffh4505 I like to drill through the fire block with a 1" holesaw (1 3/8 OD) about an inch and a half, No worry of sheetrock screws at that depth. Sheetrock repair is nothing more than drywall patch from Home Depot

@@quehendricks is drywall patch fire-resistant?

Excellent video from a guy who really knows his stuff. Thank you.

Yeah, same here. All my walls a concrete, w/o cable cuts.

Those boxes are pricey at $25-35 (USD). If you had a flat screen in multiple rooms that can be a little much.

12/2 being yellow is optional, and has only been a thing since 2001. So it is possible to still find 12/2 that is white.

I was wondering why 12/2

If all you've got handy is 12/2, there's no harm in using the larger-gauge wiring in place of 14/2.

@@harvey66616 I guess

@@DJSubAir Though, I did see later in the comments, the original wiring was on a 20A breaker with 12/2 wiring throughout. So in this case, he was just matching what was already there.

Usual practice is to use 20 A circuit for receptacles and 15 A for lighting.

I was thinking the exact same thing. I was also taught to never back plug the outlet. Always put ‘em under the screw. As well as those plugs for the pigtail. I don’t always trust those. Always twist em with a pigtail and wire nut them together.. I’ve never seen those outlet spacers either nor had to pull off the tabs unless working with a metal box like a 1900 or so on .

​@@joeweatlu5169new nec code does not allow the use of 14 awg wire anymore. Min is 12 for all 15 and 20a circuits.

@@LMB829 not even for lighting circuits?

I don't know if it's code or not, but I was told by an electrician that it isn't good practice to use different gauge wire on the same circuit, even if using 12ga. on an existing 15 A. circuit using 14 ga. wire.

Probably fished it through and likely was a PITA. Might have been easier to start by threading through the existing box. But hindsight is 20:20. This was a great video and explanation !

Neither fish tape nor fish rod are difficult to use. The only time there might be a problem is if there were fire breaks part way up the studs. @@robertf4209

Thanks so much!

No fire blocking in this wall. If there was you would have to use a flexible auger bit which can take some practice to not just damage the drywall.

(Great video:) Same here. How did you fish the new wire into the existing box? Thanks...

I think it is easier to push the new wire from the existing box into the wall and fish it up to the new outlet hole before installing the new box.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nWfEANZOYSk.htmlsi=vjsvPlQSpHb35Ire

You’re exactly spot on correct!!!

I'd also appreciate seeing this.

Me too!

Paul, I have about 12" of chain, like the stuff on a basement light socket, tied to 8 feet of string. I drop it down, and easily grab it at the bottom, then tie it to the Romex and pull it back up. I always try to go down, not up, for my first action.

Wouldn’t you just feed it from the box down to the ground & fish it out of the opening behind the baseboard?

That's not what he is showing how to do. On today's episode I'm going to show you how to build a small 2 room mother in law suite. Awwww man i would like to see him build a 20 high rise.......

I know that is why I would like to see it.

Ahhhhhhh I took your comment as the standard RU-vid armchair quarter backing. Apologies you get a thumbs up lol

Thanks!

Most houses in the US built in the 90's and later won't have blocking. But if your house does then the only option is to locate the block and drill a hole through it just like he did across the studs. It will require a drywall patch and paint though :). And even worse than blocking... lathe and chicken wire instead of drywall :). I have family that live in a house built in the 60's and doing anything electrical in that house is a nightmare.

@@livens100 ALL of the houses around here (2000 on) do indeed have blocking in the walls. Must be a code requirement. I long ago bought a flexible installer's bit which has helped but not eliminated the need for drywall surgery. And, our prior house was a 1931 plaster and lathe beauty. Working on that one really helped build my vocabulary :-)

Oh man, yeah that would be a bummer. 🤦‍♂️

Tell that to my dad. I have been slowly correcting all his F ups.

Let’s Go! 🙌

Yep, that would work and might not even have to remove the trim/drywall. I would remove the lower box, cut the hole behind the tv and fish the new wire down.

To be fair he technically said no drywall *repair* and none was required!

Yeah, that would be a bit tougher. A lot of the guys from Europe usually give some grief that our US houses are made out of paper 😂