Luckily that isn't insulation. It's a mass dampener to prevent the thin sheet from rattling. Thanks for pointing out the convenience locations underneath. Most people don't know they are there!
you probably dont care but does anybody know a way to log back into an instagram account? I was dumb forgot my login password. I would love any tricks you can give me
@Bodie Titan Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and im trying it out now. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Thanks for the inspiration. Since the desk outlet you use is only 12 amps I used a 15 amp outlet but it was a different style and a lot more work. A word of caution - 15 amp rating is needed for a 1500 watt ceramic heater or hair dryer, or just for a safety factor.
Thanks for the tip. I mainly use the outlet for small items as it is usually tethered to my trailers solar and inverter. I do have a small 350watt heater butt you almost need to put it in your sleeping bag to notice its working lol
@@singerdave2001 It's too bad they don't make a 15 amp version of that desk socket. It would have saved me a lot of time. Maybe if someone finds a 15 amp version of it they will post the info.
Thanks, I"ll be attempting this setup this weekend. Glad I stumbled upon your video. At first glance, I'm going to need to better secure the rubber boot that holds the shore plug.
@@singerdave2001 Thanks for the follow-up. It went very well. I placed the outlets all the way up near the front behind the driver's seat. There is a channel through the rib between the two interior panel pieces. I also wrapped the cables with a wire loom for protection. While I had everything apart, I also installed an external SAE plug, using the smaller black rubber cap that is underneath next to the shore power plug. The other end extends to another plug inside the van. I have 200w Bluetti solar panels I lay on my roof rack, and this will now allow me to plug that into my Bluetti battery inside without having to run the wires through my front window anymore. Perfect setup. Thanks for posting this! BTW, I did this on a 2021, Passenger 148" in case anyone was wondering.
I appreciate the mention of how to get the siding off, I'll be needing that to install hitch t-harmesses soon, I just wish I could have the cables routed across the back in that channel but it appears to have solid supports between the "windows".
Definitely alot of effort to route additional wiring. You'd think they would just go ahead and include extra wiring for towing in the default wiring plans.
@@singerdave2001 Yeah, I wish it was like my 99 f150, just had to replace from the connector above the rear axle back with one for a truck with 7 pin and add a couple fuses in the fuse box, done. This thing you have to add a whole converter box and run wires across and up to the battery (and farther up to the dash for an actual trailer brake if installed). And good luck installing aftermarket stuff in terms of alarms/remote starters, autolight modules, cruise control, etc in the event your didn't come with it from the factory, each bulb is on it's own circuit and the wires are VERY THIN gauge..... with little room to move and work under the dash.
I have the exact same van!!! Been trying to figure out how to do this same thing for a while. You are a life saver. I did not want to drill or cut holes in the side. One question. What maximum weight can you tow with your van? Mine is a 150 v6
I had the same issue. Hard to drill a hole in something you are still making payments on lol. This is the 350 ecoboost v6 I believe it's towing max is around 5500lbs or 6000lbs.
How far forward have you gone inside the van, my main question is "do you know if I can get from the rear there to the front through the sidewall and to the battery somehow or is there no passthrough from the wall to the battery?"
I have not been all the way to the battery but it seems there should be a channel between side wall and battery. If not it is a short hop that you could hide under carpet. But I'm just making guesses here
@@singerdave2001 Well, I just tackled my project revolving around this question. The answer is "No, there isn't a hidden passthrough from the wall to the battery." However as you said it's a short run so I was able to hide it under the different molding/trim. The hard part is finding a way into the battery box from behind it. I ended up just yanking on the plastic and entering from the bottom and into battery compartment through top left opening by the fuse panel attached to the rear of the seat frame. A little word of warning, the pillar in the center doesn't have a passthrough aside from the one used for the factory rear speaker and its grommet, I pushed the grommet out of the way and sent the trailer lines through with it. Watch your hands/arms, the metal inside is SHARP.
@@AceBoy2099 Oh man you would think that they would have considered placing a generic channel into that battery box. glad to hear you managed to get the wiring in without getting cut. I have been considering adding some additional batteries maybe I need to rethink that lol
@@singerdave2001 I never said I didnt get cut, notice at the end I stated a warning to future readers that the vans internals are sharp.... I've got quite a couple cuts here and there a over my hands and wrists.... I don't have the whole setup done yet, I still have to make the connections at the battery and fuse block that I'm installing/mounting, the wires are currently just wrapped up and laying on top of the battery in the tray. The only thing done so far is the wiring up to the battery location and everything outside at the rear (trailer hitch and its wiring).
