@@TepcoCycleRepair You did an excellent video explaining the adjustment. Just did valves on my 2014 LUX 550 Gator for the 1st time at 800 hrs. It should be pointed out that checking valve clearance before puting a wrench on it serves 2 things. It lets you KNOW crank and valves are in correct position to adjust and also if valve adjustment was too tight or too lose. Mine was supposed to be 004 to 006 and 3 were .010, one at 009. so I know it was just normal wear and in good shape. Great video. Thanks.
Ok so I just checked and adjusted a Gravely today for the first time ever and I measured .014 and up on all 4! Yes this engine has 2800 ish hours and no one has ever checked it before and now that it is tuned the PTO doesn't bog the engine down and struggle. Check them. Im new to the company.
My Kawasaki FD series water-cooled twin cylinder engine manual says the opposite of your video, that the internal Allen screw is the adjustment and the outside nut is the Lock. It calls for 0.01" clearance if anyone reading here is doing an FD series engine.
I did enjoy the video and it helped a lot, but at 2:53, you needed to loosen the Allen first before the adjustment nut. You cracked the wrong thing, surprised it didn't break something since the lock nut (allen bolt) was still tightened when you "cracked" the adjustment nut. You should put an a specific annotation in the video about not doing that one first.
Question I have a 20 hp Kawasaki sratred spitting and sputtering chacked the push rods thay not bent got fire going to the cylenders but when i pull the plug wire to that one cylender it goes dead. i am scraching my head dont know what to do.... what could it be ?
If you pull a plug wire and the mower dies, it's the other cylinder. Check the other cylinder spark and valves. The one you pull and it dies is the good cylinder otherwise it would continue to run on the other cylinder.
All Kawasaki FH series engines are .004" intake and .006" exhaust .I know Im a little late to the dance here but I wanted to add a little info to a nice video.
My mower has same motor and it trys to start but then it dies and starter cant turn it over until I wait awhile. Its like the motor is getting to much compression. Would this be an issue where the valves need adjusted?
I’ve got a single cylinder Kawasaki on a John Deere mower. I adjusted the valves thinking it will cold start easier! No difference ! Hard start or no start when cold and back fires. Any ideas? Runs good and starts good when warm.
I've seen them in the 3k hours range. Oil filter, air filter and valve adjustments. Heat kills them so keep the leaves off the chassis so it can breathe and stay cool.
@@TepcoCycleRepair thank you so much for the reply. i just got a new Kubota with the kawi 850 EFI and I am already a fanatic on care. The next videos I watched was a guy in Oklahoma who was rebuilding Kawi's that had high oil consumption at 250hrs! So I'm going to make sure I get 3K hrs or more.
I lost compression on one side, its at 0. the other side has around 150 psi. adding oil and doing a compression test does not increase pressure. Could it be the valves out of adjustment on that side?
If you have 0 psi it seems it would be something more severe, like a.broken connecting rod. If the piston was moving at all I would think you would get some compression.
@@Stephen-ut5xo is the piston moving? Even a blown head gasket would show some compression. Stick something like a straw down the spark plug hole and see if you can feel the piston move when you turn the engine slowly.
@@Stephen-ut5xo most likely, not a hard repair. Broken connecting rods are usually from the rod seizing to the crank. Make sure you clean up the crank before you put the new connecting rod on. The rod material usually transfers to the crank journal, it's much softer so you can usually save the crank.
You'll need to check them to see if they are in spec. Any running issues or difficulty starting should be a sign. Checking and adjusting is a maintenance item and shouldn't be overlooked.
@@TepcoCycleRepair that you for replying, but I was wondering where to find what distance to set them to. He said in the video that his was .006, but I would assume not all engines are the same.
In your owners manual you might find that information in the spec chart. It'll be labeled intake valve clearance and exhaust valve clearance. Many newer briggs engine have a sticker with a qr code. If you scan it you'll have your owner manual.
About as clear a video as I've seen on this. When you say "adjust at least once every season" what's that translate to the homeowner? About every 300 hours? I imagine in one season, a commercial lawn care businesses will put that much on a machine easily.
somebody took a nine horsepower xr75 to Carolina lawn and tractor they hit a Rick or Brock or something and it went dead so Carolina lawn and tractor told them must have told them that they blew their engine and sold them a new tractor well I went to the junkyard and I yank that out of the junkyard and I opened up the engine all it was was a pushrod came out from underneath the rocker arm isn't that amazing.
If the mower gets hard to crank, spins a little then stops, spins a little and stops, the valves need to be adjusted in order for the auto decompression to work and the engine to spin freely.
Yes, but not as often as adjusting the valves. If you keep the valves adjusted and use good fuel, carbon build up should be minimal. Thanks for watching!
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Thanks for sharing. Question: so if piston is full visible does that mean that valves are ready for adjustment. (can a light be use to see the piston position ) please correct me if wrong. Again thanks and God Bles
Just put something in the spark plug hole, like a chopstick or long screwdriver and turn the engine by hand until the piston is at its highest point and both valves have play. There is a tdc on the compression stroke and a tdc on the crossover stroke, you want the compression stroke when there is play in both valves.
Not usually, surging can be from lack of fuel (weak fuel pump, clogged filter) clogged pilot jet, sucking air from somewhere. A carb clean/rebuild or mixture adjustment usually fixes surging.
@@TepcoCycleRepair I just replaced the engine with a brand new replacement. Kawasaki FH770D-KAI 28hp. It only has around an hour of break in time on it. Anything higher than low idle has surging and sputtering/misfire.
Mine is smoking a white/blueish smoke one start up only for a few seconds. I don't believe this is a valve adjustment problem? I'm not sure if it's a carb clean problem either, but it's due to be cleaned I guess.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thanks, I think you're right. If I'd thought about it a little longer. I'm retired and my mind is getting slower, but I'm getting smarter, just slower.
Well I would need more info, is it diying as soon as you engage the blades or they will engage and you start to loose power? If the first it's a safety switch, if the second then probably valves or compression.
@@TepcoCycleRepair it wont die but bogs way down .I can pull one plug wire and it will not die, pull the other and it does.They both have good spark and I swapped plugs. The one that doesnt kill it has the new coil. The blade spindles seem to turn freely.
@@1983mojo1 The plug wire you pull.and it doesn't die is the bad cylinder. You're running on one cylinder. Absolutely check your valves, you probably have a bent push rod. Easy repair.
Hey there!! Any idea why my intake valve won't move and its very tight. The lower valve is fine l did the adjustment but the other one is to tight. Thank you
Good video. Most of the videos are confusing on how to find top dead center. I checked my valves earlier but think I checked them with the wrong gauge. I checked them with .06 mm. Any tips on how to get the old gasket material off? That took forever.
I have a kawi 23 hp that I want to adjust the valves on.Lets say I am on the compression stroke ready to adjust them.Do I loosen only the 14mm nut or do I have to hold the 14mm nut with a wrench and then loosen the 3mm nut(or whatever it is)? I am a little confuses because it looks like you just loosened the 14mm nut and went from there.
Ok so you can just loosen the 14mm nut to loosen everything, The 14mm nut is the adjuster, the 3mm Allen is the lock. So if you just loosen the 14 it will loosen both, so if you just tightened it back it would have technically done nothing. After you loosen the 14 you'll need to back the 3mm out some to have the room to tighten the 14 more. watch it from 3:00. They are not super precise when adjusting, you'll have to do it a few times to get the feel, it seems to always get a little tighter when you lock it down, so start a little loose before you tighten the 3mm.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thank you so much for taking the time to reply.I understand now! Will do this in the next couple of days.Engine has 1100 hours and has never been adjusted and for not want to go to the dealer.
I adjusted the valves today.With your help it was easy,thanks again! One intake valve was at .009 while the other was at .011. One exhaust was at .011 and the other was at .019. I set valves to .005. Engine has 1109 hours and this was never done.
@@michellejohn695 Glad I could help, it's amazing how long these engines will go without a valve adjustment. Most that I do is the first time they are done as well. Good Job getting it done!
