That was a quick way to reduce the hammer spring tension. Now that you created a lose set spring screw your tension will change with normal gun use. I suggest you place a shim or washer under the spring to keep the set screw tight or just use Loctite to hold it correctly.
Perfect,...I had the same problem with my single shot ' made in Turkey' shotgun " Lazer Arms International 20 gauge',...and this help from you worked, John. Thanks very much.
I'm glad i found your comment. I have a lazer arms 12ga single shot with an extremely stiff hammer and was hoping i could loosen it up a bit. You answered my question.
John, I just accidentally discovered something. I also have (had) the problem of a hard trigger pull and did as you've shown and while it helped some, the trigger pull was still pretty bad. I've another problem with the shotgun in that it hard to break open and often times I pinch my middle finger...enough to draw blood. This pinch was created by the back of the trigger guard being pushed up against the screw that holds it. So, while messing around, I took the screw completely out. WOW...I immediately noticed how easy it opened...then I pulled the hammer back....easy...then I pulled the trigger...very nice. Of course this can't be right...so I put the screw back in finger tight plus 1 turn...back to the way it was. Then I reversed the screw 3/4 turn...now it's like silk. I don't know why this is...I can understand why it would open easier...but what has that screw have to do with trigger pull. I mean, it's great.
Sorry, I have to admit I laughed a little at you pinching your finger. I feel your pain, I've done the same. I'm not sure why that screw would have anything to do with trigger pull. I'll check it out when I have a chance.
Thanks! This worked for my ATI 20ga. Trigger was awful, hammer was so bad my son couldnt even actuate the hammer and could barely pull trigger. The hammer is much easier and the trigger is better. The adjustment screw has plenty of threads. I did use a thread locker but this screw is already under tension from the spring. *still kicks like a barrowed mule😅
Thank you very much for this tip. I bought this gun in a 410 for my nine year old son as an upcoming Christmas present. It was too good a deal to pass up, but I was concerned about that stiff hammer and trigger. Definitely going to try this out!
i bought 2 of these for my teenagers. Both with heavy triggers, one was extremely heavy. I ba ked the screw off about 1 and a half turns and made a huge difference. O would like to try to polish the triggers if possible, they feel gritty and could probably be alot smoother. Good gun for 99 bucks, you cant beat it.
Hutch EOD I was also think about polishing the trigger sear, but the last time(25 years ago) I took apart a single shot that was held together primarily by pins. I told myself I'd never do it again.
Gunsmith too? I'm not surprised. Did you decide against a rubber butt pad? It has other advantages too. It lengthens the stock and so, makes it more comfortable for us big guys to look down the barrel. Thanks!
Gunsmith? Not hardly LOL. I decided not to add a butt pad.I didn't want to add any over all length to the gun, although it would be more comfortable to shoot.
Thanks for the information. The hammer is so hard to pull back on mine you almost have to use both hands. And the trigger on mine you pretty much have to yank it for it to go off lol.
John Capps I know right. It's pretty good gun for 100 bucks, But if it just had a shell ejector it would be so much better. We'll thanks for for the info and this helped tremendously.
NobodyWhatsoever you've got a point, but I can't emphasize enough how heavy the hammer, and trigger were. I own a variety of guns, and this was far worse than anything I've ever experienced. It was so heavy it made intentional discharge difficult. The H&R is better quality, but the fact this one folds was the selling point for me.
NobodyWhatsoever A week after I bought the Hatfields I found a Yildiz TK12. The Yildiz is a beautiful folding shotgun. It looks almost Identical to the old Barretta folding shotguns, and sells for $160 at Academy. If I had found the Yildiz first I wouldn't have bought the Hatfields.
It would be best to get the adjustment on the spring by using a washer for space so that the retaining screw can be tightened down and still retain the relief on the tension of the hammer, use the thickness of the washer(s) to adjust the tension on the spring. By being able to tighten the spring you virtually eliminate the chance of the screw loosening or falling out of it's place.
Using various thicknesses of washers in such an application is an old and often used method of lightening leaf springs the change of angle and final compression on the spring leaf is lessened by more space sometimes just a small piece of shim is sufficient other times a thick washer is necessary. For best results shim out until the hammer strikes are so light it will not detonate the primer reliably, then back of on the height of the shim until you get reliable primer strikes. This process will also automatically lighten the trigger pull as well. Thinning the leaf spring is fraught with problems and will often cause breakage of the spring because of the thinning. Best to just adjust with shims and washers until you are happy with the result. It takes an experienced expert to successfully thin a spring, don't try it unless you have lots of spare springs to replace screw ups.
Donald Denison That all makes sense. I never said anything about thinning the the spring. I was meaning to use a small piece of metal tubing to make a bushing, instead of using washers. The top of the tubing could be cut to match the angle of the spring where it meets the screw. The washers would be an easier solution.
Dear Mr. Capps: I know that you never mentioned thinning the spring which is by the way, the best way to handle the situation if one knows all the details and pitfalls involved in doing this, and has had lots of practice using this method. Thinning the spring is something almost everyone eventually considers, I was just giving some advice based on my experience with the subject. even a small file mark left during the thinning that is not completely polished out and blended in can set up stress patterns that can cause failure of the spring, that is why I was steering you away from this direction before you even considered it. Thinning will work the best, but one had better be sure that he knows all the details and pitfalls of this method and has had lots of practice before attempting it, and spare springs to use as well if you fail in thinning correctly, I have learned this to my sorrow in the past. You will find changing the washers or shims in height the most practical solution, it is expeditious and effective and will solve almost all problems. Don't forget that after you find the best combination of shims and washers and have tested your fix, that you need to degrease the screw and it's screw hole then apply some kind of thread locker, even if it is only a bit of your wife's nail polish to the threads and then tighten it down for keeps, you don't want your new repair to come undone on you. Sincerely Yours Don Denison
Donald Denison You're right, I had thought about thinning the spring. I was afraid of messing it up, so I didn't try to. You have convinced me to install washers. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, and advice.
Gareth Hughes The screw wasn't bottomed out, or tight from the factory. I do agree the problem should be addressed. Maybe a tapered washer to match the angle of the mainspring. One commenter mentioned clamping the spring in a vice and tapping it to lessen the angle. This might be the only proper way to fix it, but one would have to be really careful.
Has anyone considered finding a longer screw? A 2-3 in screw would allow you to adjust the weight from the outside using pliers then cut and grind it off flush
I wish we could get those shot guns up here at the wall marts. They do make a cool pack gun. I am thinking of a Cricket in 22 mag as a light pak gun here in the north east we do not have poison snakes that hurt any one up here. I do wish we had hogs but do not
I didn't think Cricket made a .22mag, thats cool. I have one of the .22 Henry survival rifles. It's very light ,but not very dependable. Most people around here see the wild hogs as a nuisance. I see them as an opportunity to put food on the table.
nice fix been looking to pick up a Hatfield but can't find them in the store around here any more there sold as soon as they come in its about like the old men that stand at the counter on Thursday night at 9:00 when they put the .22 bullet out they buy every thing they put out then mark up the price and sale them on Friday and Saturday at the flea market crazy lol thanks for sharing the fix did you have to put any loctit on the bolt to keep it tight ?
Lol, it gets on my nerves when people do that. I think they're the reason there's a 22 shortage. The loctite is a good idea. There wasnt anything on it from the factory, and it wasn't bottomed out. It is something to keep an eye on for sure.
Not sure where youre from but you can buy ammo online I go to buds or palmettostatearmory. Prices are comparable ,slighter more, or less than Walmart prices. If you buy if bulk then it offsets the shipping but then again you don't pay tax unless you live in KY and GA. You also have gas money and time that way too.
John, I have this gun in .410. I have done hammer/trigger pull adjustment by loosening the screw. It helped a lot, but it is still really stiff. I don't have a gauge, but I know it's much higher than the 7 you've achieved. Here's the deal, on mine, I have unscrewed that adjustment screw almost all the way out...the screw has enough threads to go further out, but if I do the spring itself is just sitting there being kept in place by the screw which is only finger tight. (hard to explain). I was thinking of either making a groove in the receiver allowing the sprint "V" to rest a bit deeper or to use the washers. If I use the washers, I will need a longer screw. Any suggestions? Maybe I'm confused on the washer usage. Have any illustrations?
I'm not sure what your next step should be. By the sound of it you've taken almost all the tension off the spring, and the trigger is still too heavy. Polishing the hammer, and sear may help, but I don't have any advice for doing it. I'm not sure what my trigger weight is. I don't have a pull gauge.
dampy They do not have a transfer bar, the hammer directly strikes the firing pin. The hammer will not travel fully forward unless the trigger is depressed. They also have a hammer block safety. It is safe to carry loaded with the hammer down.
I have one in 410. stiff hammer. I saw your video on the work you did to yours. have u thought about an 18 inch rifled adapter for 45 long colt for deer
Bam Shepherd My use of this gun is for it to be something I carry when I'm not hunting, just in case I come across hogs or deer. I carry buckshot, and rifled slugs in the shell carrier. If Im deer hunting I prefer to use a rifle.
I figured I'd shoot mine quite a bit first to see if it breaks in or loosens up the trigger. A lot of times with new firearms it takes some break in time especially on one that only cost $99 bucks.
Arctic5fox a limbsaver. I had the 20 gauge one and she kicked worse than my mosin. My 20 gauge eventually broke and I plan on buying a new 12 gauge one cause they have oodles where I just moved but I'm waiting for my new drivers license to come in
Johnny Arnett It now measures 20 1/4". I cut it so it would be flush with the butt when folded. The link didn't work earlier. I have a video showing the changes I made. ru-vid.com/group/PLR4nYpmbouGWkSbceDGibeDDQ6GsBpH4y
Just went to buy one of these in 12 gauge from Wal-mart. The stock was already cracked in 2 places and the quality is absolute TRASH! These shotguns are hot garbage. I was very disappointed to say the least. I wouldn't take one for free even. If you like it that's fine, but for my $100 I'll be headed to the local pawn shops to look for a used New England Firearms or H&R single shot that is of much higher quality.
Trevor Gomez I agree, the H&R is much better quality. The selling point for me, is that these guns fold in half. Hatfield could bump up their QC. There were many discrepancies between these two guns. Here's another folding shotgun you may like. The quality is far superior to Hatfield. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3fcNfWqBYI8.html
Agree, 3 failures to fire in the past week after loosening only 1 turn, 360 degrees. My finger is not strong enough to pull the trigger on the SGL 12 gauge.
I just bought one of these in 12ga. It seems to have the opposite effect, ya too soft and doesn’t set of rounds! So I tightened it a a little. Hoping to try it out later this week. Going to wear goggles in case it’s too much and blows powder back in the face.
Have you taken the barrel off? It looks like there's a screw or bolt it pivots on. I make my own barrels for the NEF single shots and am curious if it would be easy to do for these things as well. Strangely, wal-mart won't let me at one with a screwdriver before I buy it...
skiddyfisk Lol, no looking at them with a screwdriver. That's cool that you make your own barrels. I haven't tried to take it off. I have a Yildiz .410 that has a similar hinge pin screw. I've tried to remove it, but broke a screwdriver tip, and marred the screw. I think I will leave it alone.
I tried to turn mine and it would not budge. That was with my considerable weight on the screwdriver and using a wrench to turn it. They must have used permanent thread lock on it.
I just tightened mine, didn't affect the trigger pull but the hammer pull is definitely tighter. Hope this fixes the light strike issues we've been experiencing.
Actually I like the Hatfield SGL ejection that just raises the brass end part way back a little to take it out with your fingers. I save my hulls, so then I can just stick them in my coat pocket.I have two H&R Toppers that break over and they eject the hulls 6 foot behind you on the ground and then you have to bend over to pick it up unless your ready to catch them before they pop out. Ha,ha I guess it's just a getting old deal lol.
The simple extractor is much better than my break actions with ejectors. I just don't have the strength to pull the trigger, and get misfires from loosing just 1 turn.
@@JohnCapps thank you, I placed my finger over the hole and pulled the trigger and I got a nice pop from the pin on my finger.. I think she is just fine. Thanks allot John!
excuse me sir do you think this shotgun would be sturdy enough to hold up to high brass or magnum loads? i know im asking a lot out of a 100 dollar gun but hey
John Capps thanks for the reply man! this sounds perfect, i've been looking for a decent break open shotgun to keep under the seat of the truck and this sounds like the ticket
prototypecitizen I woul think it's an issue with the firing pin. Or possibly the safety bar is preventing the hammer from fully dropping . Should be a warranty repair. www.hatfieldguncompany.com/warranty . I've had a problem with Remington shells in the past. The primers were recessed too deeply, and would only be dented by the firing pin.
the safety isn't getting in the way I checked I took it out today and shot it 4 times but each shell took three attempts to fire and I was not ready for the kick it bounced out of my shoulder and off my cheekbone I'm fine but this has got to be the hardest kicking 12 gauge ever made originally bought this as an alternative home defense for my .308 but a burglar will only die laughing if a point it at them and fire 3 times to shoot once then have to reload
prototypecitizen With the barrel open, and pulling the trigger you can push the hammer forward and see how much the firing pin protrudes. mine protrudes exactly 1/16". I have never had any misfires. It could also be an issue with head spacing. Another question. Have you tried different brands of shells? I would be contacting Hatfield for sure about the problem.