AG 021 Toyota 1ZZ-FE engine forensic teardown 

The question was NOT about tightening them. It was ONLY about loosening them and I'm not sure your explanation helps me understand. Manufacturers to recommend loosening in an order so I assume there is a good reason, but I still don't understand it. Thanks for trying though.

Looks like the knock sensor. Most modern cars have them. It detects when the engine is knocking and the computer will retard the timing to protect the engine.

Ok. Thanks.

My compression readings are between 220 to 235 and lead down test between 5% to 10%. And that was after flushing out a whole bunch of carbon and sludge.

No, I'm sorry I didn't and I tried a lot of things. If you email me, I can send you the list of things I did. Maybe one will work for you. antimattergarage@gmail.com

Is that you Rukushin? Different name? Uh, yeah, I hear you on not having money. When I was in college I survived, like most starving students on Raman Noodles and PB&J sandwiches. LOL. In this case I was just really concerned I would do all this work to get to the bearings only to find that the crankshaft was also damaged and since I don't really like this engine and I'm no longer surviving on Raman noodles, there was no way it was going back in. Anyway, thanks for watching and commenting.

Yes. I do.

@@antimattergarage8147 how much would it cost if you're willing to ship to California in a really bad need of one please?

@@MrKaos925 Hey buddy. I really don't think that makes sense. I don't know the exact value, but it looks like at least $275. That's what ebay sellers are charging and they probably have a shipping dock. It's usually more from a residence to a residence. Plus mine is in pieces in my garage. I'm willing to put it back together, but only for shipping. I'm not willing to torque every nut and bolt like you would do in a rebuild. I'd rather rebuild a better engine. So you would have to do that when you got it. Plus you would need new rod bearings, $80 minimum, gaskets and any pieces I took off to do the swap. You would be much better off getting a used complete engine off ebay, like this one: www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-1-8L-VIN-R-5th-Digit-1ZZFE-Engine-FWD-Fits-03-08-MATRIX-405640/114064807744?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1a8ecad740:g:0agAAOSwvcBcXuoc&enc=AQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkAgU0umhwUTmgTFbE5cu7zartiS7oKCS40MWT7zff23uRUR9kH6VPsWjXCy8pBj%2BqQQct%2Be6fdLErD9YgYyHHa2e0funL3LNeb8xcV7h2ATOH3hVT0Q2lGSsDR4VzjTxv%2FMTMWkXGNdGZAnDjwfi4lPaS7t0R5j3ajT9sDa8pm3o3KsCOo30btTSyoTXWioWBajPAk4MEmlNULGLMPW%2FhoV8cZ37Uuyshw9ipC3Si3d0TpDVXRTDfwr4wk1e3%2FzkBBnU%2FMVO92uYCOjsDoNJYEQlRQ1%2FCLnuy2tJeLCxPuZ%2BVaU3%2BiNtbqxMhLv2Dzg5QeiHnc1fJG2Sp3vLOexrkFbANnp2lgtyECR30zyOYMViGsBoXkNh1mGT%2BMn%2Bbf2calxI2i9L%2B5%2Fr83iqGm8eY25rWN3DTxFSYrOZ9QFI8yN61XcTIfICNhRfC7ImAsGnAxRK3kAsE%2Fho%2BHpLo7OOxDjpXAbvSNJaLidL4RuSLoZNXD8qM30xsDIteCNf1APuaZUw2RWYDWRnazrV%2BAels%2FpjPsuegRcFOLK1D%2Bbbjr896%2BjC05yKXuKFnkbpCm6CK9oR7EwR71lCH3sFxqnEMTyziBOq0GKJYBO%2FwrQ6fsdgaas8rgWSBBHuRnxgm3Z5yipEq%2FBNUcZu0GFuFRCYNmQDwu0zS%2FtKwzWpFPY5VltEEiH%2FADpj63tUosROfhTgTm1Kv2cPaAAGlFjVOVSF5GRqpD6aaqffx6lCKwntBqCP5N%2B0oKNwBfNl%2FQW%2BuL6iA6dIVjo5zhvnE8S2S49HdHg%3D%3D&checksum=114064807744708b567da61740578b1de58554eeb142. or just going to a junk yard in Cali. California has a lot more resources than Florida. My engine really only makes sense for someone fairly close that wants to do a built or rebuilt 1zz.

Still got it and giving it for free ? I live in Kissimmee myself

I don't think so. I bought an MR2 Spyder brand new and they replaced the engine twice due to rod bearing failure. Now I had this older one with the same problem. You might say I've done something wrong but I have been driving for many decades now and this is the only engine I've ever had with this problem. I treat all my cars the same way and my wife's car has 345,000 miles on it. It's still going strong. Get a Honda K20 or K24 instead.

@@antimattergarage8147 what about just for regular 2001 corolla will it last more than 200 thousand miles regular driving?

@@russelmussle7866 Maybe. I got to 184,000 miles. I would make sure you don't let the oil get low. I also have an aggressive driving style which causes the oil to slosh. If you drive like a normal person, hopefully it will work for you. Good luck.

@@antimattergarage8147 Yes, these engines are really good actually as long as you keep your oil checked and don’t drive extremely aggressive. Since these engines are notorious for oil bypassing the piston rings and being burnt, if someone doesn’t keep their eye on their engine oil level it’s really easy for it to run low and cause damage to your rod bearings. I’ve got a 1999 Toyota Corolla with the same engine that I use as a gas saver, and I’ve noticed that oil will reach the minimum mark on the dipstick by the time the previous oil change has 3k miles on it. Thanks for the informative video!

@@usa_dobson8967 I have the 2004 Matrix with the 1zzfe engine. It burns oil due to the first 80k miles of dyno oil use. I flushed the crap out of it like over ten times. By the sixth flush a lot of black craps that looked like stepped on and aged bubble gum drained out. At 170k miles, the engine is burning anywhere between 0.25 quart to 0.55 quart of oil for a 3k miles OCI. We should always use high-quality oil and filter!