hey i have an 01 solara and my code reads an 02 sensor i took it to my mechanic he said he replaced it and the check engine still didn’t shake off, how do i get rid of my check engine should i try to replace the sensor again?
Maybe not that extreme, but for me the idle varied like 600 rpm if i remember correctly and then after bleeding the coolant it was all fine! Do you have any fault codes?
@@benjaminsjodiin No, but it's a stand alone now. When I drove it to the tuner to get it tuned, it idled normally and drove fine. Go figure. I noticed that the coolant gauge stared acting up. Dropping to zero the jumping back up. I wonder if the sensor is bad or maybe air in the system can do this?
It's kind of strange that AEM wouldn't request the broken part in exchange for a new replacement given to their customers. Either way it was a creative way to destroy it 😎 I'm looking forward to the water/meth injection video 👍🏽 thanks for sharing.
The supercharger video is taking a while. I have over 7 hours of video. There were lots of challenges and at this point, I still don't have an ending since I'm waiting for the AEM part to get the car tuned. And of course, the new part has to work.
Apparently it was 58" long. The width is some kind of standard. It was 3/16" thick. The company was Online Fabric Store. Product ID was WEH1755. Hope this helps.
13:56 Exactly what happened to me when I was flushing transmission oil and changing a filter and a pan gasket. At the end, after filter been changed and I was ready to put on the sealant on the gasket - I realize it was completely wrong by shape, holes, etc...
Hi! Thank you very much for the video! Sorry, isn't that easier (for me) to buy and replace the whole part, so it won't be necessary to extract the spring? Thank you!
Hey man I’m doing the same install. Question. The power adapter you’re using where is just plugs into the car right under the dash. Can you send a link to that?
Here's the one I used, but I don't know if it works for anything other than a Vantrue. www.vantrue.com/products/vantrue-obd-hardwire-charger-cable?variant=44511690195253 Sorry didn't see this post earlier.
Merry Xmas & Happy New Year !! 🥳 That exhaust looks stunning & sounds fantastic ! Thank you for sharing such a thorough video and although you were harsh on your welds I'm jealous of the fact that you can weld 😅 I honestly think the finished result was awesome. Turned on notifications for your future videos (which I thought I already did) 👍🏽Cheers. Oh and the 'van dyke' looks badass 😎 Looking forward to the next one man.
Wow! Thank you so much. You are a credit to the internet comments section. I think people are reluctant to say it, but harsh comments DO hurt and favorable ones DO feel good, so thank you so much for making my day. I think you will like the next video. I'm making it right now. I'm installing the Monkey Wrench Racing supercharger.
Are you not concerned about moisture accumulating down in the muffler and cat? Speaking of the cat, having it sit out there easily accessible will be a temptation to thieves, which may or may not be a concern depending where you live.
Yes, to both questions. I saw that a lot of muffler manufacturers put a small weep hole in the muffler to allow water to come out. Unfortunately, the low point in my system is the CAT. I don't think it would be a good idea to put a weep hole in the CAT. The original stock exhaust had the same configuration, with the muffler over the CAT, but in that system the tailpipe was the low point. Mine are much higher, so I guess it's just a risk I'll have to take. This might accelerate wear and tear. Also, I've noticed when I start the car and the condensation comes out, it gets the bumper cover dirty. Again, the price I have to pay. As far as the CAT being right there, yeah, it's begging to be stolen and if the the thieves are well prepared it would probably only take them 30 sec. My plan is to make my own diaper, that will cover this up eventually. Fortunately, the car is usually in the garage when it's at home. The custom diaper will be a separate video. Good questions.
Thank you so much for documenting your steps and creating this video. I am about halfway through replacing my top and this video has been so much easier to follow than the manufacturer’s instructions.
@@antimattergarage8147 I have mine set pretty low and I chose stiff spring rates, you can specify what spring rate you want. I also installed them on my own and I wouldn't attempt to install a motor like you did. I like them and they handle great.
@@antimattergarage8147 I'm going to see if i can rout it through the rear vent first. this should be an electronic latch instead of a cable. toyota cut corners.
Re: Gas caps, more to them than just a possible cracked o-ring. Internal valving, both for excess pressure AND excess vacuum control. For that reason, I went for the OEM cap from Toyota, cheap enough especially when ordered from you local dealer's website and pick up when you get an email notification.
Great Video. I have just finished replacing my top and your video was extremely helpful. Thanks for making the effort to make it. It really helped me. All the best mate 😊
Sierra U.S. Made twill vinyl top is nice and cones with a 5 year warranty (IF professionally installed) for around $600. However, like most other roofs the instructions are horrible, with fuzzy B&W photo-copied pictures with no arrows or notes or fastener type/sizes (in case it is missing or mixed up with others) accompanying a one-line description. 18 steps/3 pages of taking the old roof off, then 18 steps 3 more pages on installing it. They assume an auto upholstry guy has done this car before, is familiar with all the things NOT mentioned, and is well organized. As for a DIY'r, you are screwed. Good Luck, and watch this video carefully, taking notes.
Great video! I had much the same mindset on my 02 2ZZ spyder. I traded some wheels around with friends to get 4x 16” OE spyder wheels, and went with a square 205 continental ECS tire setup. It’s actually very stable and predictable, not too snappy even when pushed at AutoX. I also got the front well rubbing and also didn’t want to lower the car! (Crazy I know). I ended up going with coilovers that are definitely stiffer than I like for street, but I could at least keep the ride height and stop the rubbing. Great info in this video!
Very cool car & love your style of editing and humour. New-ish subscriber. Just want to thank you for your very informative videos on the 2ZZ swap. Really cool that you kept your first car 😎 it still looks absolutely stunning.
The AC is doing great, it's the engine that's having some issues. I don't think it's the actual engine, though, I think it's a leaky exhaust or injector or something. This job was definitely worth doing myself. Even if it fails, I can do it 3 times for the cost of having a shop do it. I think 3 years is pretty good. Thanks for the comment.
They are 17" wheels from a brand called Sport Edition. Unfortunately, I don't think they make them anymore. I bought them on tirerack.com and when I went back to get the exact model for someone else who asked, I couldn't find them. The tires are 215/50-R17. That kept the diameter the same as the stock wheels. Also, they were just a tiny bit lighter than the stock wheels if I remember correctly. I think they look really good too. Thanks for asking.
To anybody about to attempt this job, pull the power brake booster out. It's relatively easy to remove, it's not worth the frustration of trying to use a crows foot or regular line wrench and chewing up the threads. It gives you a ton of room to work with and NOT crossthread. -First thing's first, put some sort of towel or something up against inside by firewall, just in case a nut falls down. -Leave all lines attached to brake master cylinder. Remove 2 fasteners attaching master to brake booster. Gently pull master cylinder back, making sure lines that go towards passenger side are unclipped and move freely. this should give you enough room to remove booster. Go under dash (obviously) and remove 4 fasteners (12MM deep sockets) for booster, and also remove linkage. -For clutch master cylinder, it's trickier for sure(just because of that top fastener), but not impossible, and much easier if you have access to an electric ratchet. Linkage is similar to the brake pedal linkage. I used 3/8 drive ratchets. Use the 6" extension and a 12MM deep socket for the top (harder to reach) fastener. Break it loose by hand first. then use electric ratchet to drive out. I did the same, but with a 3" extension for lower fastener. When you re-tighten, put small piece if paper towel or something else in the socket to hold fastener in place. Ideally you should start them both on the threads by hand first, then finish them off with electric ratchet.
Started replacing my roof the other day, got about halfway back on today, wouldnt be possible without this video. Cant thank you enough. I was wondering how your replacement soft top is holding up after 2 years now? It looks like mine came from the same manufacturer so I was wondering.
Mine is ok. It still looks great. The only two problems are that the headliner looks like it's pulling out and the strap that goes across, won't stay snapped, but I think the snaps themselves are just old. That part didn't come with the top. Otherwise great! Glad my video helped you. Good luck!
Apparently you can get refrigerant with oil in it as well. I'm doing this job now. The condenser was discontinued unfortunately hopefully the rockauto one works ok
What did you do about your engine? I replaced mine and it started leaking so i put a honda engine in. Also i heard you listening to the yeah yeah yeahs, nice haha
The non shiny part of the camshaft isnt' wear but a part of the orginal coating that has been put on the camshaft, the shiny part is actually what has been worn down and should be fine as long as there are no scratched or ridges. However that looks to be the case on one of the lobes of the intake cam. The cams can be replaced in the car and you don't need to remove the timing chain cover for that (just remove the chain tensioner and the slack of the chain should be enough to remove the cams). If you replace the cam then also replace the follower's that have wear on them or were at the part of the camshaft where here was any wear. Sorry to hear you had a lot of troubles with both engines, my 1zz is still running strong without any problems (facelift version), although I will replace it with a 2zz in the future.
I have this make and model of car, this is my second vehicle I owned being 19, and have tried to replace as many bad parts my self as possible. This video definitely helped me save some money from pep boys
I don't understand what that means. O2 sensors measure the amount of oxygen in exhaust gasses. The fuel injection system uses those values directly to decide how much fuel to inject into the engine to keep it running correctly. Without a properly operating O2 sensor(s) fuel economy, performance and NVH will suffer and in my case a CEL will be illuminated. That's why I bother.
on cold start up it can cause noisy valvetrain like noises. because it has to build oil pressure. usually on a good vtc the oil would stay in the gear and not leak.
