If you iron your finished pattern onto freezer paper even wax paper your pattern is stronger for future use...especially after all this hard work...done this for years on patterns I use a lot.from Tennessee
Love that you showed full and small bust adjustments. I know you’ve mentioned you have narrow shoulders and sometimes need to make adjustments for that. Would you consider making or speaking to broad shoulder adjustments or broad back and how to know the difference of when to make which one. Ie patterns (usually if they have sleeves) are slightly tight across the top but I’m never sure if I need a broad back adjustment or a broad shoulder adjustment. Thanks.
Thank you for the info on the waist and side darts. I have a pattern that only has a waist dart so when I do the FBA do I add the side dart that it creates. I really enjoy watching your videos has helped a lot with my finished projects.
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!! for showing a small bust adjustment! So, so helpful seeing it "in person" (also - LOVE the overhead view...so easy to understand what you're doing). Question: if one adds inches to the waist when doing a full bust adjustment, are inches lost when one does a small bust adjustment? And are inches lost in the "height" of the torso, as well? If so, I may have a little epiphany - I have square shoulders and it's been easier to trace a larger size (for my shoulders) and grade in at the waist...but that doesn't account for the too much fabric in the bust for me (small bust). But if inches are also lost at the waist with a small bust adjustment, this may be the miracle adjustment I have needed all along. Also, you are a GREAT teacher/mentor/tutor...so clear, so easy to follow along. So looking forward to the next part. Thanks!
@@TomKatStitchery Yay, yay, yay! Oh, I am so excited...I have a UFO (Vogue 9325) that has been languishing in my attic because I couldn't figure out how to fix it to fit my unique body. Can't wait to try this with it!
Thanks Whitney for showing us these adjustments for both small, and full busts. Would you also need to add length to the bottom band of the skirt also? Since you added width to the front of the skirt?
There are a couple. Cotton lawn or batiste is great for cotton dresses and for when you won’t be layering it over anything but your undergarments. Bemberg Rayon and China silk are both great slippery choices. They are both breathable and can be easily slipped over another layer of clothing (like a turtleneck or button up shirt that you might want to wear underneath). I stay away from anything polyester or acetate for dress linings because they aren’t breathable.
Thank you Whitney for these videos I have learnt so much.. I must have been listening to your other videos because when you were altering the waist dart I said “no don’t take the dart in you wanted to keep the extra room just go back to the original dart size” so funny 🤣 Proud pupil moment lol . I think you said before that the paper you use was medical paper, is there a particular brand that you would recommend. Thank you xx
😂 yes! I love that! I use the medical exam paper from Amazon: Avalon Papers 617 Exam Table Paper, Standard Crepe, 21" x 125', 1 Pack (12 Rolls) www.amazon.com/dp/B005EK68PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t6vWEbNPYPC2R it lasts for a long time!
Question on the FBA - so the new darts will have a new apex point location, correct? The center of each of the new darts should still intersect at the apex which will drop the apex location down and over, right???? I think I have been doing it wrong and shifting my FBA darts to be in alignment with the original apex point. What you are showing is that when I try on my new toile with the modifications the apex will have moved, correct??? My FBAs never turn out right. They are good enough but I alway have to tweak them a lot to get things to fit and lay correctly. (a real pain). Maybe this is where I am making my mistake???
If the apex needs to be lowered, do you lower the whole original dart( cut and slide the little box), then start from that point to do the FBA? Or do you lower the apex after doing the enlargement? I’m always confused about the sequence. Thanks!
I would do the FBA first because that will move the dart. After the FBA, then you can assess how much it needs to be lowered or raised with the box method.
I only store a few of my PDF patterns. The ones that I know I will make frequently, I iron into submission, put them into comic book zip lock bags (you can get these off Amazon) and then store them in the filing cabinets we have in our storage closet. The patterns that I know I only need one of in my closet at a time, I just recycle them when I’m finished. If and I when I make them again when the original wears out, I just reprint because the chances of the original one fitting me aren’t 100% if enough time has passed.
Is the original skirt drafted to take up the entire width of folded fabric? Will adding that inch and a quarter send the edge over the selvedge? I ran into this issue trying to make a skirt longer and fuller.
You definitely need to watch that. Because I had to shorten the shirt by 2” , I didn’t have problems with this. However, you can always fold the fabric on the cross grain to get your two pieces cut out. It takes a bit more fabric, but it can be done!
@@TomKatStitchery Oh of course! Forgot about that. I always have to lengthen if anything so it could be an issue for me. I wonder if I could just add to the side seam and taper to the bottom? Might have to redraw the waistline curve a bit but that could work? Seriously thinking of doing this pattern.
Yes. I got a phone call while filming and even though I declined it in my watch, it stopped filming 🙄. I’ll refilm it and post it in next week’s video.
just to let you know Sian from kittenish behavior did that dress and said the skirt is in no way a circle skirt. maybe a fuller a-line. Cant find the actual video but i will try.
I’ve made it before, but I would definitely trust Sian on if it’s a full circle or not! It might be a 1/2. It’s definitely fuller than the flare skirt on the Lisa.
