Albert Mummery was one of the greatest alpine climbers of his time. He is widely considered the father of modern mountaineering. His views about climbing were absolutely in advance if compared to his time, the late 19th-century, and his cutting-edge climbing concepts really anticipated the 20th-century.
Mummery was innovative not only for being one of the first mountaineers to break with the tradition of guided climbing and to show its feasibility in practice, but also a striking forerunner in expanding his horizons and engaging himself absolutely ahead of its time.
He was the first man in recorded history to have planned and attempted to climb Nanga Parbat, one of the deadliest mountains in the world. He had reached almost 6,100 meters on the Diamir face. However, his innovative, light-weight endeavour on Nanga Parbat in 1895 proved ill-fated. Mummery and the two Gurkhas who accompanied him, died in an avalanche while reconnoitering the Raikot face of the mountain.
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3 окт 2024
