Hello Mangz my name is Paul Nice to meet you. I just bought the Align T-Rex 650x which In my opinion is one of the most prettiest and Sharpest looking Align Helicopters. I just got a few questions if you don’t mind. 1. I got the Microbeastx I have it set up with a Flysky i-10 transmitter do you think that’s ok? 2. Can you explain to me what tail gain is I am still having trouble understanding it 6 years later. Thank you Mangz
It’s nice to meet you too, Paulie. The 650 is a beautiful bird indeed, one of Aligns more modern/recent models. I am not familiar with Flysky transmitters so I will not be much help unfortunately. Most of the setup is done in the flight controller so as long as your transmitter offers basic modern heli setups parameters, you should be fine. Make sure you use two receivers on your build for redundancy. Tail gain is the holding power of the gyro. The higher the gain, the more aggressive your gyro will be when trying to stabilize your tail. Higher RPMs usually require less gain and lower RPMs require more. If your tail wags, then your gain is too high, the gyro is over-correcting. If your tail drifts on its own then your gain value is too low, you want to find the sweet spot in the middle. Making sure your tail is setup mechanically correct is very important.
Can you tell me what cable you used from your ESC and what port you put it into on the controller? and does the align esc provide telemetry feedback to the transmitter and if so what readings does it give? i have a spektrum transmitter and wanting to know if it will red the telemetry
The ESC comes with two different cables, one for the throttle, and one for BEC/RPM(yellow). The cables that are provided however are stupid long, so I actually used the shorter cables that came with the BeastX. Throttle goes into the (-+S) port on the ESC and into port 1 on the FC. The BEC/RPM goes into the (-+R) port on the ESC and port 6 on the FC. The 6250HX controller does not have an extra port for the RPM/telemetry(yellow cable) to connect, so I simply removed the RPM connection from the two wires that are for the BEC. The ESC is capable of sending telemetry data, I just decided not to use it.
Why did you glue the tail control rod sleeve to the tail control guide? The silver sleeve needs to be CA'd to the carbon rod and not the guide. Doing it the way you did will over time wear out the carbon rod in the area of the sleeve from sliding causing tail control rod failure or carbon breaking under load. The sleeve should freely slides in between the tail control rod guide.
@@mangzrc yeah trust me I did that when Align first came out with that tail rod design and boy my CF control rod started chafing from the back and forth rubbing in the sleeve. I ended up hitting a hard piro stop and my carbon control rod shredded and I lost tail control. I realized after going through the manual I miss understood their instruction and should have glued the sleeve to the carbon rod instead. Lessons learned for sure.
Honestly, I never checked it. I did however check the bearings in the head and they did have grease in them but not a lot. No more than I fly I just let it go. If you have any doubts, I would just put more grease on them.
Great work! one question please. I'm having a hard time putting the motor in the frame, does the motor shaft sit flush at the bottom of the bearing block? or do you tap the motor lightly to line up all the bolt holes? Thanks
It does require a little force to get the motor shaft to seat properly into the bearing. I did not have to really tap mine, but I did carefully apply some force until it made a tactile click and seated properly. Once it seats, it will not drop any further, so once you get that "click" the motor holes should align perfectly; at least that was my experience.
@@italianheartsgourmetfoodsl7756 The reason for that is to insure that the motor shaft does not spin inside of the inner race of the bearing without the bearing itself spinning with it. If that were to happen then the inner race and shaft would create a lot of friction causing damage/failure.
Hello my Brother Mangz, Papa Sal from Reno here. Ok last silly question please......... the main gear, is it pre-greased and blue locktite? What did you do? Thank you Sir! Sal
My main gear was pre-assembled with loctite so I figured they already greased it, so I didn’t check honestly. It couldn’t hurt to check, but I believe they pre-grease it.
Okay another question: when the asbox says for the direction of the motor........ CW- CCW .....is that looking at the top of the of the motor or the shaft side? Sorry for all the wacko questions......Like I said before.....I'm old.............I know, I know CW = clock wise, CCW= counter clock wise. Thanks Sal
Hi MangZ Question: Some people are complaining about the 600L torque tube gears used on this model. Is this as big of an issue as some claim...? Or are some people embellishing this? Do you feel they are too weak for this application? How's yours holding up? Thanks
I am aware of the tail gear gossip on this model, but I have yet to experience any issues with them. I was very careful when I assembled the tail and I made sure the gears were seated correctly and meshing normally, I kept a close eye on on the gears for the first 10 flights or so but have yet to experience any issues or abnormal wear. That being said, I own quite a few helis and don’t fly one model a lot, so I can’t really speak on the longevity of the gears. I also do not push the helicopter to its limits & I do not practice massive over speeds. Don’t get me wrong, I fly the heli hard with many demanding 3D maneuvers, but I am no means flying like Kyle Stacy lol. I personally would not worry about the tail gears, although I will always prefer belt drive, but the 650X has been an excellent model and I only have positive things to say about it. I never shimmed the tail gears either, I just left them alone and have had zero issues.
@@mangzrc I have a 500xt with the same ratio. It will push the tail a wee bit under heavy collective... but never a blowout or anything wonky. Was just wondering if if this would be proportional with a much bigger machine. Thanks for your replies. Seems the only people complaining about the TT gears are those flying hard smack, which I don't. I might buy the 650x.
I do not own the 550x, but I do own a 550 size heli from another brand. You cant go wrong with either of these models. The 550X is 6s so it will be lighter and a little more convenient only needing one battery. If you really want to experience a 700-size heli with 12s power go ahead and get the 650X, it is a completely different experience from a 550 size heli imo. I used a GoPro Hero 7 Silver in this video, but I recently bought a Hero 11 Black so everything from here on out will be on the new Hero 11.
Hey man nice video, I have referenced it quite a few times in my recent build of the 650X. I have a question. I don't have the align asbox and the Hobbywing wifi express doesn't seem to work for programming but you mentioned at the start of the video that there is another way of programming without the box, so was curious what method that is as I can't find any info. I would like the asbox but no one in New Zealand has one in stock for another couple of months and is hard to get things in international shipping. So at this time I feel I have a very expensive paper weight since I paid out about $4000 for the kit, batteries, charger, transmitter etc etc. Any help would be appreciated.
I am really sorry man, it appears I was incorrect with thinking there was another way, I believe I was thinking about Castle and their ability to be programmed with the radio. The good news is, you do not need to program anything in the ESC to fly your 650. The ESC comes preprogrammed in ELF mode, which is perfectly fine to fly in. The only difference is that you will need to calibrate the governor every flight. Yes this is annoying, but at least you can fly until you can get your hands on the box. You can switch any 2 of the 3 motor wires to get the proper motor rotation, and the stock BEC voltage is fine, you won’t get all the power out of your servos, but I can bet you wouldn’t be able to tell anyway. Perform a throttle calibration, plug in your packs, do a quick governor calibration at 50% and go fly.
@@mangzrc thank you for the reply. I have just come back to Helis after 15 years. My last heli was a Trex 450 SE with a flybar. This 650X is a big step up from that old bird. I managed to find a guy with a Hobbywing box which worked perfectly since the Align ESC is made by HW anyway. Thanks again for the video, I also wired mine internally and it makes it look much nicer.
@@valeriegray6841 Here is the link to download the software - www.align.com.tw/index.php/download-en/asbox/ Once you download it, open it in files, click on it, and “extract all”. Once you do that, find the file named “ALIGN ASBOX USB LINK” and click on that. The program should run. Now you’ll need to get a USB to USB-C cable from Walmart, Best Buy, Amazon, etc so that you can plug the box into your computer. You will plug the box into the computer and then use the included red/white/black cable to plug into the “- + p” port on the side of the ESC and then into the “ESC” port on the box. Then you’ll hook up your battery to the ESC and the computer will automatically began connecting to the ESC.