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You can take the compression driver apart, just put a flat head screwdriver under the alu plate the the terminals attached to and the dome is under there. All compression driver(pro audio) need to be serviceable with replacement diaphragms.
Nice overview. Hopefully your AMT demo and explanation will help those unfamiliar with it's operation. So many enthusiasts really don't grasp fundamental differences in tweeter platforms. Good work. - You mentioned the lack of planar tweets in car audio, I have +40yr old planar magnetic Alpine tweeter modules! They're actually a two-way design, w/soft dome below and a waveguided planar magnetic above. They've not seen any signal voltage in decades! Circa '82 ish, they were my dash mounted high modules in a '76 Chevette! (three-way active 10", 5.25", and the Alpine tweets). It's stored, but I still have each component of that entire system. ----- ‐ Chinese knockoff of a Chinese Dayton?(!) - I'm not familiar with AMT polars orienting to the pleated direction. I don’t understand what's at play there. Have you tested that? Perhaps the grill perforations impact propagation(?). Absent a waveguide, conventional wisdom would suggest that is simply the radiating size of a driver's dimension that impacts polar behavior. Thank you. Always solid content! Much appreciated.
You are very good at explaining this stuff. Cool to know exactly why the SB acoustics tweeter has the 'dimple'. I am still curious exactly how similar planar magnetic and folded ribbon technologies are to each other. Really looking forward to your comparison videos.
i always loved ribbon tweeters.. nice video cheers i have ow build speakers with the most expensive audaphon ribbon tweeters and its a VERY good tweeter so accurate
Very nice, I really enjoyed the video and thanks for the time spent in making it. I learned a lot and makes me want to experiment with ring tweeters Looking forward to the next video I will definitely Watch
31:07 My Philips fwb mcm11 bookshelfs has that type of tweeters in them. Btw 8:56 thats just a mylar tweeter. Its like a soft plastic material. Usually its silver or black
I have the planar magnetic in a 3d printed wave guide as a super tweeter. I am really interested in the tweeter test comparison video as I enjoy listening to them in this role.
Very nice exhibition and plenty of details I was hoping to learn. Thanks - 16:20 love to know if it works, as well XD *All you need to know about tweeters | Tweeters 101*
Imo the best tweeter is the one that matches the drivers it's paired with. I lena towards a tweeter that can be crossed over in the 1-2.5k range. The more of the frequency spectrum that can be played by the lighter moving mass (tweeter) the better. My current favorite pair of speakers utilize the hairpin style tweeter so is only really good on axis but boy does it sound smooth!
great timing of this video! i am currently "shopping around " for tweeters for my toyota. i am using dayton amt mini 8s now, and they sound very, very good, but, as you stated, they only go down to 4k. i am running 2 way front, and want something to go a bit lower, as i have dynaudio 8s in the kicks, and am really pushing their upper range. i think i have decided on gds planar magnetics (grs pt2522), but can't decide between the open or closed back versions. i'll let you know how it works out.
That energy that's radiated to the rear of an AMT tweeter.. Now imagine the blissful performance if that energy were to be present in the performance. Danish loudspeaker company Audiovector do precisely that with their in house custom made(as you said hand folded!) AMT being vented to the rear of the enclosure. Obviously not a concept that could work in an automotive installation.
Are the Linaeum tweeters considered electrostatic? I still have my Optimus Pro LX-7 speakers that I purchased in 1996 and they have the monopole Linaeum tweeters. I still prefer them over the Sony SS-CX5 speakers.
I’d like to find an acceptable but cheaper substitute for the extreme-price, little Mundorf dipole AMT tweeter. Dayton? I hope you do that AMT comparison you mentioned soon. And, thanks for the video, it was good.
I would love to see how the planar Mid/Tweeters perform. They have frequency range from 250-20khz. I've been thinking about ordering this one and seeing how it performs. GRS PT6825-8
I did compare a few of them, but not planning to make a "shootout" due to the logistics. It's difficult to work with multiple big drivers. Midranges were a pain to be honest😂
You described the AMT dispersion correctly, but perhaps the car audio example was not clearly explained. Depending on the application, you may want the horizontal dispersion to be either wide or narrow. The point you were trying to make about dealing with reflections in a car is that with an AMT you get the option of mounting it "sideways" such that the horizontal dispersion is narrow and the vertical dispersion is wide, which can be beneficial in minimizing the reflections coming from the side windows and accounting for the people of different heights at the listening position
Based on this. If I wanted to run a unique system with Midbass, Midrange, Dome Tweeter and AMT, which design would you get, round or rectangle? If rectangle, how would you mount it to compliment the dome tweeter?
@@canuturnitdown The housing shape of the AMT mostly matters for looks, not the sound of the driver, unless we are talking about waveguides. The round housing has the benefit of having it mounted in whichever way using the same mounting holes. I personally haven't listened to a system with a super tweeter, which is what you are planning on using the AMT as. I don't hear much over 17 kHz, so the whole concept seems worthless to me, unless the other parts of the system are already the best they can be. So personally, I would invest the money in a more traditional 3-way system of a better quality.
@@Tomzuki. yes. I have stereo Intergrity 6.5s in my doors and HAT Legatia L3 on the way. Just haven't found a tweeter. Was looking into AMT but there's not many company's that I've found other than the Dayton amt and Mundorf
@@canuturnitdown The HAT L3 is practically a fullrange driver, so pairing it with a AMT driver is a good idea. But why would you have a dome tweeter in the mix? AMT is pretty recent development on the market, not sure if there are some patents related to them but Dayton and Mundorf are the main brands.
Compression driver works by compressing the air creating high spl inside of the quench zone or where the actual cone is larger than a funnel looking horn then when it exits it has a natural effect of unloading if you will its kinda like a ported sub that unloads at resonant frequency a combined resonance of sub and port. Anyway no matter what you compress as soon as the pressure or squeeze ends or stops the energy in the air expanding gets a lil extra oomph if ya will to be percieved louder as all those tones were compressed prior to release from horn also meaning the shape of horn has dramatic effects on output sound as im sure changing the compression or quench zone would have as much or more an impact on output sound. Amt or planar are not expensive unless your a brand whore buying a name also they do play low considering the fact they also make midrange amt type driver or ribbon drivers
Pardon my inquisition, but as I'm new to your channel, I do not know... In which country do you live? I ask mainly because I want to import some specific speakers from Italy that I can't seem to purchase from the US.
And you are missing cone paper tweeters. If we look at dome in not stright front but at sharp angle it's seen smaller. This is one of reasons why dome tweeters do not have uni directional characteristic. - enough test it with listening. other reason is reflection from flat base surface which is part of it's design and adds to problems. The construction of dome secures it's total stiffness and it with it's ball shape provides that for super high frequencies where radium of dome is comparable to wave length - say it is 1 cm radius and 2 cm wave length ( 15 kHz) will vanish for listener to zero. Adequately for near by will be unfortunately deminished - by contra phase between top of dome and it's round near suspension. No any change of material can make significant improvement to it because only geometry decides. That stiffness is bad in compare to cone tweeters where signals use separate surfaces of cone I see in your video that they developed cone with permanently immobilized top of ball which in fact limits its stiffness. shifts problem up, say 60% higher which is enough and by softening alows adaptation simmilar to old paper cone tweeters. But no so precisiely because it is not so controlled as in some old tweeters where membrane was sectioned by pressed in paper rings
@@RAW-CAt True - it is not actual technology but I am exception and my tweeters are produced 1955- 1969 . I want to inform about things which are today not much noticeable It was replaced mostly due to troubles in assembly and ease to damage no repair capbility . . Silk dome even deformed regains shape itself which is great. . I experimented with domes many years and finally gave them up and returned to cones. Surely now I am one of few.
Rather than "best", I can give examples of very good performers that I have experience using: DOME: Dynavox (forgot model #) Dayton Audio RST-28A COMPRESSION: B&C DE250 Selenium D220Ti PRV D280 * I tend to prefer tweeters with ferrite motors due to lower Fs and better power handling
Your chennel is sick. Ive bought an 8 channel steg dsp 8*100 watts now struggling to choose speakers. I want to keep it looking stock. So can run 2 x6.5 and 2 1 inch tweeters. In front and back. Really struggling to choose speakers. Ive read i need to be above 0.5 qts for car speakers. Dont want to spend a fortune. Could you advise on any? I checked faital pro but they all need more power and mostly 8 ohms
I would suggest not wasting 4 active channels for rear speakers. Active 3-way in front with passive 2-way for rear fill would make more sense imo. As for Qts, it all depends on the install and application. I'm guessing you intend on mounting the midbass in the door, hence your concern for low Qts, but with a sufficient highpass filter you can also use low Qts drivers. The power handling will be lower than with higher Qts, but still plenty for SQ. Faital Pro, Dayton Audio, SB Acoustics etc. make some great value for money drivers. 8 ohm impedance is not that big of a concern either if you are not seeking the highest possible SPL, in some cases higher impedance can even be beneficial for SQ.
@@roymiddleton5760 I get that, making modifications to factory interior panels can be scary 😅 The simplest option would be having a pod, which could be bolted to the a-pillar. Some cars also have good spots in the corners of the dashboard for midranges, but cutting the dashboard is an even bigger undertaking. Sail panels are another popular location of midranges, but the reflections from the side windows will be problematic
So have purchased some speakers. 2 sets of blam 165rs components. Got both used for 90 quid all in. Have also bought a pair of scanspeak 10f midranges with the German pods. My amp conplete overkill but hoping it should work. Will add a sub in future when more funds free up. Going for active 3 stage front and components at back. Tweeters and midranges all 90db but the midbass driver are like 94 hoping this will be ok