I had a similar problem when I moved into my house with the drip edge and flashing. I took adhesive caulk (type of caulk for metal because mine is metal siding) and glued the end seems. I also screwed two metal roofing screws that has the rubber/neoprene washer already on the screw and screwed them at the end sections or the transition pieces. I caulked these end sections and transition pieces (use sealant caulk made for metal flashing, gutters, roofing etc. I spray painted the flashing for the screws and caulk to blend in (rustoleum satin white). Make sure you obviously mask the area off. Now that being said, I am a perfectionist and, wanted to have it done right but, I have alot of "irons" in the pot. I feel that this will put a band aid on this problem until I can fix the problem in a season or two.
The guy in the video is totally right, and I'm sorry that he's getting flack from the uninformed. You *never* overlap a downstream joint on top of an upstream joint. That is, the water should always flow over the joint, not run right into it. This isn't even remotely controversial, and I'm surprised that anyone would disagree with it. I'm happy the video person took the time to share this lesson with us.
Good point, we ventured into siding and facia wrap once. All the installers we hired had the same techniques "lap with the P.O.V. in mind". Bottom line vinyl siding is purely cosmetic and not water tight that's what flashings are for. But when it comes to metal works, flashing, fascia covers at gables etc. It's about running everthing directionally similar to roofing. Good metal work should include very minimal caulking and soldering only where needed I.E. corners, crickets, fireplace flashing etc.
Good video and mostly common sense I've been roofing for years and done a fair share of soffit and fascia trim. It is as some one mentioned below. Kind of like installing shingles all the way up upside down :) Wind might not catch them but that water is sure to.
Thanks Gary! I didn't know until you point it out. Yah, it is dump to overlaps that way . They juat lead the water get into the wooden fascia board. They should overlaps them as you install the roofing shingles. The higher piece should overlap the lower piece
@tinman842 You said it! A good installer, I have seen a lot of aluminum fascia installed with no soffit so then the aluminum fascia is against the wood fascia and maybe a 1/2" lap. A small fascia with the shingles overhanging won't be effected as much as a 12" fascia that is a 10 or 12/12, been there and done that on the repairs, but why even give water a way in.
If you install a roof flange around a plumbing vent pipe the correct way there will not be any nails or any part of the flange exposed . The piece to cover the lead ring on a galvanized flange is a counter flashing witch you usually have to make by hand out of galvanized sheet metal . Being a plumber for 55 years I've never found them that necessary.
@mzabfl3 which way do you lap your gutters, why buck water? I have repaired fascia that was rotted because of this, 12/12 you could get a lot of water behind it. I would not teach or have anyone on my job that would do this. Bad habits and poor workmanship keep me busy, so just keep doing things like this and I'll always have work Thanks for your post
Fascia wrap should always be installed with the overlap being visible from the ground. We install drip edge over the eves with the lap being visible from the less active area or route of travel. Good rule of thumb when installing drip edge is to overlap to create a smooth line from the most traveled area, front of the home would be a smooth line from the driveway to the front door , front to back etc. Poor metal installation can affect the customers appreciation for the roof. The roof could be super straight vertical and horizontal , straight valleys , ridge etc but if the metal work looks like poo then the customer might wonder what else is jacked up. Pride in workmanship is key and should be applied to all phases of roof installations.
I'm going to be doing a video on how to replace a plumbing vent boot, if you use the plastic type they need to be changed out because the tops start cracking and the nails that are exposed tend to let water in and the next thing you have is decking that needs to be replaced. I've done hundreds if not thousands of these since 1977 and is very common. If lead is used and the squirrels don't chew on them they can last through a few roof replacements
Wow Gary if this is a proper installation of Fascia then we have been installing shingles wrong this whole time. I geuss we should be turning the shingles upside down and starting at the top of the roof and shingling down it would look like one solid piece of shingle from the ground.
Don't laugh too hard. I work with Vets Helping Vets... I am "Fixing" a home built by her dad and brothers. EVERYTHING that has to do with water intrusion is backwards except that the shingles do start at the bottom! However the 3-Tab shingles were nailed on using 5/8" & 3/4" roofing nails. The roof looks like goosebumps all over! The sheathing had no 1/8" gap and was nailed on using smooth 5D nails thus allowing it to buckle dramatically. Some sheets had fewer than a dozen nails in them with nothing in the field. WOW!
I get what you're saying but, look that that siding right under you in this video, does it matter which way the seam laps? There are ways to make that back water lap water tight, a little inside knowledge before the coil stock is installed and it's not going to leak.
I guess if it's mechanical instead of depending on a sealant to keep water out, it makes more sense to me not to depend on a sealant. I have delt with a lot of water issues so I look at everything this way
contracts who install facia trim like this should have their hands cut off like in the old days. that motivates others to do a right job. i had my roof redone when i bought my home, the contractor hired a subcontractor who did a sloppy job. i had to be on the roof watching what they do. back then i didn't know many things that i notice are wrong, now.
I had a company come out & install a new metal roof (over shingles) on my house...problem is at the ends of the roof you still see about 1" of shingles ... they used no metal flashing so now its going right down the wood fascia & in the windows I called them a couple times and they said they didn't have time to fix right now...& it's been three months since then.
Yes, it's fine, code-wise, to go over a previous layer. But it's still just lazy, lazy, lazy. And clearly, your roofers were about speed and cutting corners. They should have trimmed the overhangs back and put on metal. It's amazing how many roofers don't bother with dripedge. Especially when they sheet a roof. Dripedge has to then be installed to hide the edge of the sheeting.
I froze the video at :26 to take an initial crack at what this gentleman is going to point out wrong with this fascia. My guess is from what I can visually tell is the installer overlapped his joints the wrong direction. From what I can tell,, they look as though they're catching moisture dripping down the fascia into the seams where they seemingly overlap upward instead of downward. Now I get to see if I just made an ass out of myself for guessing. Of course there could be other things wrong as well..
Haha,, I nailed it! The guy should have at least caulked the joints to try to keep the moisture out. Unsuspecting homeowners get it up the rear all the time from ass monkeys like whoever put this in for them. With that said,, this isn't a hard fix. Hopefully it was caught in time so whoever repairs it can just splice some shorter pieces in underneath the joints running downward & top nail that splice to the outside of the lower piece. It's ok to be critical of an installer who didn't give a prospective client their money's worth but it's just as bad when another installer or so called "expert" comes in behind them making out like the problem is the end of the world presenting an estimate to repair the screw ups longer than your arm. I've seen or heard of this happening too many times in my many yrs. in the construction business. We're all in this together people,, play nice & do not screw the next man in line. By doing so,, you persist in keeping the bad habit of "screw thy neighbor before thy neighbor screws you" in existence. Play fair,, be ethical & allow your character to carry you through life. That way people can talk shit about you all day long but at the end of the day,, you can lay your head on your pillow knowing YOU ALONE KNOW & REALIZE THE GOODNESS OF THE PERSON LYING WITHIN YOU! Sorry for the long diatribe,, I like to teach lessons in life & dissing an innocent brother is one of my pet peeves..
I just had my siding done and I don't think it is done right, The installer covered up my garage weather stripping That weather strips the sides of the garage and top . I think it's wrong and don't want to pay them
Yeah, the guy that did the fascia probably did the shingles...poor edging and something tells me that the lower slope should not be shingles---not enough slope.
he is right.......totally wrong and poor installations.....doesn't matter if the Aluminium fascia is a mm or inch below the bottom of the actual wooden fascia....the way they lap the Aluminium fascia is totally wrong.....we are talking about water here and how they affect wood....so when starting from the top....install the first aluminium fascia and the second one should go underneath the first one....otherwise start from installing from the bottom it's much much better
how bout mentioning that you never face nail aluminum fascia? Ripples and bulges occur all over hell if you do this. The nail goes up in through the bottom.
Sometimes one has to nail the face. Especially at the peak of the Gable or in high wind situations. If the builder thinks ahead - he can bend a 5/8-3/4" strengthening hem in the top edge and face-nail through that before covering it with a drip edge to hide the face nails... Blow your heart out Mom Nature...! If the face may have buckling or "Oil Can" issues - the face should be ribbed (from the manufacturer) or creased. Don't know how? See the following: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ff2bZiFkRfY.html
the installer don't know what his doing he must be one of those guys who makes like they are carpenter and get the job cheap. it only common since to know which way the water flow.
Thanks, this really bugs me and I know when standing on the ground you won't see the laps but it's not natural, you wouldn't install a gutter with the joints bucking the water Have a good year east side
Best way to avoid that is to use real fascia. Aluminum fascia covering is practically senseless. Water will always find its way behind that crap and rot out your wood. It's best to let the wood air out, front and back.
