Got myself a barely used walkera 450d03 few weeks ago, at half price, Tweaked it with blade balance, swash leveling, cg. Quads are camera platforms for photographers and casual pilots imho. Helis are a different animal
@@Rchelicopterfun I was kind of worried you changed it by accident while showing how to change the settings and then didn’t notice it. All good then! :)
Hi John, Got myself 505, and this is my first FBL Heli. I’m use to fly Heli with fly bare (Thunder Tiger Raptor 50). my D/R EXP set at 25. I only do sport flying. With this 505 FBL the helicopter is very responsive with D/R EXP set at 25 and still afraid to hovers or fly this helicopter. What is your recommendation for D/R EXP setting so my helicopter won’t be so responsive. Also I just order H1 auto pilot for this heli and one of your video will be great help setting up.
If you're using the FBL gov you can save some money by using a Hobbywing Flyfun V5 ESC instead. They're basically a less expensive airplane mode only version of the Platinum V4 that uses the $8 LED card instead of the LCD program box. The manual doesn't mention it but they output an RPM signal on the brake signal lead when brake mode is disabled in the ESC.
Hello john, very nice video and build! I am building a 505 right now and am at the point to put the main rotor head on. When i put it on it has some up and down play in it. When i take it off is found out that het hole in the main shaft has a larger diameter than then lock bold that goes trough. Is that normal?
Shaft hole should be just large enough for the hex bolt to easily slide through. An oversized hole in the shaft where the head block jesus bolt slides through shouldn't cause the head block to be overly loose on the shaft, but there will be some play. The head block like most mid to larger size helicopters is also clamped to the mast by two more hex screws. Maybe you forgot to tighten them?
Nice series on this. I built a Goblin 500 for my son back when they came. He was an accomplished 3D pilot at the time. He eventually quit the hobby but I am trying to get back into it. He was a much better pilot than I ever was. I was looking at one of these since they don’t make the Goblin in 500 size anymore. I don’t see any difference in your videos other than colors. I think I would rather use one of these than buy a used Goblin and rebuild it. So are you still liking the electronics that came with it? Like you I probably wouldn’t use the K-Bar long-term. I do think it’d be greater for smaller helis. Hard to beat a $35 VBar clone. The knock on the original Mini VBar was its current handling ability. I still have one on a 360 sized heli. Are you guys able to fly larger helis there these days? I am worried about FAA regs here. It’s not looking good.
Hi Rod, Yep, it's a pretty amazing value and quality piece of kit for the price. All the electronics are still working very well - not a single problem. I'm flying the 505 with a Bavarian Demon 3X now. That cheap Kbar is okay, but I always had occasional porpoising (so minor you couldn't see it unless flying close in) that I could never quite get rid of. I've always been of the opinion, you can get that sort of stuff sorted on any FBL unit if you take the time to play with the PID and response time settings, but I never could get rid of it completely on the low cost clone K-Bar. The BD 3X has an elevator filtering algorithm and it flies like a dream now. I'm thinking the large mass of the tail boom on this thing in relation to the rest of the heli mass (like scale RC helicopters) is just too much for the cheap K-Bar to deal with (just a guess of course). I tried the K-Bar on a conventional pod & boom Trex 600 after removing it from the 505 and it works fine with no porpoising at all. Flying up here in the Great White North is harder as well. Unless you belong to a MAAC (our version of the AMA) field or have a private field to fly at, we are basically stuffed unless you are willing to succumb to the time & money wasting draconian RC registration & reporting process . Most of us RC heli fliers are just giving the middle finger to transport Canukistan while we fly our birds illegally in more remote locations, which most of us have always done anyway very safely and responsibly. I will never register myself unless there is some common sense put forth and these jokers actually use science and critical thinking in their policy making. We all know hell will freeze over before a corrupt & inept politician/s ever does that. As of right now, RC regulations are even more draconian than they are for flying maned ultralight aircraft up here. It's a joke! 😡
@@Rchelicopterfun Hi John, I recently move to Canada to study abroad and I agree, the regulation is nuts, let us rc heli fly and ground the drones, its the drones that is causing the issue not the rc heli guys
Kept it with the 4 o-rings (two on each side), with 2 spacer washers (one on each side), and didn't use the hard plastic (close to rigid) rings. For my flying style and lower head speeds, I don't want it super stiff. I may end up putting one additional spacer washer on each side as things will likely loosen up a bit and as I start dialing the head speed up, but for first test flights running lower head RPM's, what I used seems to be working well.
@@Rchelicopterfun Cool. One of my helis of different brand (Oxy 4 by Lynx)has the hard damper and o ring combo. It took some getting use to, but I run it at lower head speeds just fine
Well, seems to work fine at lower head RPMs with the hard inners and soft rubber outers. No cyclic nodding or bobbing so guess it's best to just follow the build manual.
Aider moi monsieur concernant le récepteur et l’émetteur pour cette helicoptere un récepteur ou radio 6 caneau serais t’il compatible ou il faut une radio 7 canal ou plus minimum jatand votre réponse merci monsieur
Hi John,Are you still happy with the Alzrc Devil 505 after two months ?Was your box arriving from China complete with all pieces and undamaged ?!As of today would you rather buy a Goblin or stay with Alzrc Devil ?Sven
Very happy. I go over the box and what was right and wrong with it upon arrival in the unboxing and review video I did (only issue was paint quality which BG quickly remedied). Yes I would definitively purchase the super combo version again. One of the best heli values on the market today without question.
Hi John, very glad to hear that, Alzrc Devil 505 Super Combo has a good price and SAB Goblin 500 Sport Combo disappeared from the market. I hope that the package from China is not too much taxed or customs involved. How much extra cost did you have there? Sven
The ones I'm using in it right now are 6S 4000 mAh Turnigy Nanotech. Discharge rate is only 30C on them, but I'm not a hard 3D smacker; only sport so they barely get warm with my setup & flying style. I thought I could use my 6S 5000 mAh packs, but they are just a smidgen too big. A 4500-4600 mAh pack would be ideal if you want longer flight times. I do talk about the battery size space available in the build video I did: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2N39ephs5w8.html at around 27:10 into the video if you want to know what room you have available in the "belly".
Does the Kbar come with limited bank angles? I am kind of new to RC Helis but looking at the Alzrc heli kits, I don't want it to go full 3d mode tho. Is this easy to setup to have mild controls?
Any collective pitch RC helicopter can be setup with beginner/mild response & control for learning on. Cyclic & tail dual rates are your friend along with tame pitch & throttle curves. Reducing collective response as well as power output is just as important as limiting cyclic and tail response. To answer your question on the K-bar. It's a 3 axis gyro only, no artificial 3 axis accelerometer self level & tilt angle limit help.
Hi John Ive a few questions for you if you wouldnt mind answering them. ive just bought the E180 and once I re ieve that and fly it for a few months Im considering buying a 420 or a 505 Devil maybe in the next 6 months or befor the year is out. for me with customs in ireland it will cost me the 420 will cost 550 euros and the 505 will cost 800 euros, I have no batteries so they would have to be bought also. Is it really worth spending the extra 300-400 euros taking batteries into account for the 505 or would the 420 be ok, I really want a big helicopter but i think the 505 would start to get prohibatively expensive for me, but if its the case where it is so much better than the 420 then maybe i may save up longer and buy the 505. What are your opinions please, If you have no experience with the 420 then just give me your opinon? Also I have a tx16s do I need to buy a reciver for it or can it be bound as is? Lastly, can you recomend good but cheap batteries for either heli, everything im seeing and reading about batteries on Banggood such as the ZOP power and the URUAV suggest they are very poor batteries(at least in the 6s versions used in these helis) Thanks and warm regards from Ireland :)
Hi John, awesome content, so much so I bought a 505, H1 and all the bits you used and built myself a copy of what you did. One question if I can?…. when using the program box, I updated the firmware on the program box itself and ESC. On the program box I’m now running firmware version 4.0.06. Your video shows you running 3.2.33. In version 4.0.06 they have removed the “Heli Linear Throttle” as an option. In its place they have added a “Heli External Gov” option. The other 3 flight mode options are unchanged between the versions. Given there is no linear throttle option should we be using the Heli Ext Gov or something else?
Hi John, firstly thanks for replying. Secondly, I'm surprised you don't know because of all the RU-vidrs I follow you seem to me to be the oracle on this stuff - it gives me personal hope because I feel a little less poorly of myself when I get stuck on something (lol). Prior to contacting you I have already been through the tech notes for the various firmware releases and there is no mention of a change to the Flight Modes so it all seems quite odd. Anyways, Ive contacted Tech Support as you suggested and we will see what they come back with. I will update this post if I get anything meaningful back to help anyone else following your build.
@Drone Downunder - yep, unless you use the exact version firmware, it's pretty much impossible to know every little nuance of every change that is occurring. I'm also primarily a Castle Creations ESC user and not up to speed with HobbyWing ESC's.
@@RchelicopterfunI get that John - I will work my way thru it. Be aware though (in case you get anymore enquiries along these lines) the firmware version you used doesn't even exist as an option anymore.
I have 3 K-Bar minis. They all have this lazy tailwag I can't seem to solve. I've tried everything, P gain, I gain, acceleration, etc. with no success. Do you have any advice or know anyone who knows?
Softer mounting foam for the unit - run a higher head speed - increase belt tension - use a better FBL system - confirm no mechanical binding or slop in the tail pitch assembly (about 75% of all the tail oscillation issues I'm requested to sort, are due to mechanical sticking or slop in the tail system).
Hey John Salt, your previous reply has helped me alot. My new concern is, I have this Kbar on my 700 nitro. Works great except for this stirring oscillation meaning like when you have a glass of water with powdered milk and you stir the milk away. As the head speed increases so does the oscillation. I've tried min and max main rotor gain and so much more. Perhaps you know how to solve this oscillation? Thank you.
hey John i just bought the hours xq12s with opentx it has the latest version 2.3.5 on it but there is no helicopter menu what version do you have or how you get it. when i pull up the version screen on transmitter in OPTS it says noheli
I'm no expert on OpenTX configuration but my guess is you'll have to go into OpenTX companion and redownload the OpenTX firmware version you are using to your Horus, but this time, make sure the noheli box is un-ticked in the build options section. I'm currently running version 2.2.3. There are lots of video's out there on OpenTX configuration, but if you're interested, I did one on my last Horus update where I had to enable the multi-protocol option for the iRangeX module. Here's the link to it if you're interested: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XmUIdMsBnZI.html
@@Rchelicopterfun opentx is whole different world than what i am used to. i was running spektrum. they are up to version 2.3.5 now i went a head and flashed the radio and did not check thew noheli and now i have it on thanks for the info
Glad that worked. Yep, OpenTX is a whole new world compared to pre-configured computerized radios. I found it rather intimidating when I switched over, but now love the features and flexibility it offers. The growing list of cool radios that now support it - amazing. Of course, still loving my X12S. I see that latest version 2.3.5 is a critical one to fix some Horus bugs so I better flash mine too - my least favorite thing of OpenTX.
No grease is recommended. A little silicone spray lube would not hurt since it's safe for the belt, but it's not necessary. Will likely just attract dust more than anything, but it may prolong belt life a little bit. I do use silicone spray lube on the tail belt however on all my helicopters that run tail belts to reduce potential static build up.
Hi John love your videos! Can you do a tutorial on programming a K bar with the iCard? I don’t have a windows based computer just a Crome book.. I’m new to programing flybarless systems have a 450align v2 that I completely built from scratch a 480 and am currently using conventional set up but want to change to dfc head.
Got rid of it & put an Ikon in after the Kbar tail gyro started drifting. No idea about programming the Kbar with an iCard (don't even know what that is). The one I had, like all my FBL units, I programmed via USB cable and laptop.
I cover this question in detail on my best RC helicopter page on my website taking everything into account from budget, to flying area, to skill level and expectations. Here's the link to that page: www.rchelicopterfun.com/best-rc-helicopter.html
Hello good morning, I thank you for the videos you make are very helpful for me.He bought this helicopter model and these batteries could tell me if I'm fine for my devil : Zellen : 6S Spannung : 22,2V Entladestrom : 30C / 180A max. Entladestrom : 50C / 300A max. Laderate : 2C / 12A Kapazität : 6000mAh Stecker : 5.5mm Goldkontakte Balanceranschluss : JST-XH Maße LxHxB : 150 x 53 x 50 mm Gewicht : 820g
Likely too big. I show the battery space available in the helicopter during the build video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2N39ephs5w8.html Recommended maximum size is 4500 mAh for this heli.
