Don't run cheap oil in these mate, they need a high zinc diesel oil. Do the first oil change at about half an hour and again at an hour to make sure any swarf is gone from the crankcase. I've used JB Weld to attach a small magnet to the drain plugs on all my small diesels (genset, pump, log splitter and pressure washer).
I use Penrite (an Aussie company) but any semi-synthetic, 15 W 40 (or 50) high zinc diesel oil should be fine. The main things are, to make sure it's a diesel oil and NOT full synthetic. @@dennisyoung4631
Since that little engine will go about 3k rpm, you can compensate some by using different size pulleys...much like changing gear ratios, only with pulleys, to get a high enough rpm for a generator or alternator. And you could put an inline fuel shut off valve between the tank after the filter and the engine. Good luck.
I don't know who you are or where you are from but I appreciate you posting this because this is every single one of us out there not normally buttering it up for the camera. kudos to you brother and keep moving forward.
You can compensate for the lower RPM by setting it up to run at 1800 rpm. Diesels have more low end torque than similar size gas engines so it should pull just fine at that speed. I was around bigger gensets running off a locomotive sized engine that redlined around 1100 rpm so the genset ran at 900 to make 60hz.
this generator will be making 120AC? my solar inverter will take 65v~ 150v and that is DC from the solar panels. could you use a DC generator and let it make something in the range of my solar input? 65v~150v DC. then just send the power to the solar input ?
2.2kw is 2200watts/750=2.9HP. 750 is not the correct factor of 768watts to HP but is considered a good derating. I have a larger version of this engine in a 6.5kw generator. The correct start proceedure is to slowly pull the rope until you are on a compression stroke. You will feel it and possibly hear the injector. Push the compression release lever down. Pull the rope one good time. It should fire right up. The valve lash needs to be adjusted from the factory. Look in the manual for the lash spec. I would adjust it every oil change for the 1st few oil changes. Change the oil often and use a diesel rated oil. Shell rotella or delo ect. I have had good luck replacing pull starter ropes with 7/64in amsteel blue rope. It is very hard to cut and lasts forever.
The biggest guy holds it between his legs and folds himself over onto the motor gripping it tightly with all four limbs. The second guy holds that guy in a firm headlock, and the third guy pulls the starter cable. Thats how we always do it, it works great.
I could not get a new one of these started no matter what I did but your injector bleed procedure solved the problem. A few pulls after that bleed, and it started right up. I've not heard anyone talk about that before. Great information! Thanks!
First thing I would do is take the pull start off. Then I would subsequently crank it with an electric drill. My back hurts watching these repeated start attempts. Thank you Mr. Farm!
Mate, I once bought a Chinese manufactured Edge Trimmer driven by a Petrol engine. It worked four times. It was a cow of a thing to get started. The pull chord was on the wrong side to start with. No matter how I pulled that starter Chord, the damn thing would not start. I eventually used a starting aid called *_"START YOU BASTARD"_* and got the thing running but; after the fourth tine I used it, it became harder and harder to start. I eventually took it down the rubbish tip. I may as well have taken my $200.00 down to the tip and left it there. Cheers mate!
I You dont suck dude. You are at least doing something. More than any critic has likely even tried to do. Also, If using an alternator, dont be conerned about any particular RPM, it'll adjust the field current to maintain your set voltage, and you'll be making DC current, not AC, so freqency is not much of a factor. Change oil after first hour and then in five hrs again and no more than 30 hrs between oil changez after that. Magnet was a good recommendation. Consider directly connecting alternator to the shaft, simpler maybe an no bely to contend with, maybe an old U joint might help. Hang in there, I'm proud of you and your efforts. Take care, 73
Thanks man i appreciate it! Comments like this is why I love making things and showing things. I appreciate the advise we will see how good we can charge some batteries!
That engine would probably have been much easier to start if it had been bolted to a solid base so you wouldn't have had to try to keep it standing as you were pulling on the start cord. Also if the shaft is to big it would probably be much easier to enlarge the hole in whatever pulley or sprocket you want to use since that shaft is likely a hardened steel and would be a SOB to grind down AND keep it round in the process.
Stupid as it would be to do just fire the engine up and use a hand power grinder with a little finesse run it up and down the shaft as engine runs mic it until you have weakened it down to the size you like. Simple no need for disassembly of the engine.
the propper way to start up those small diesel engines is following: 1. Put the trottle to about half or 2/3 gas position 2. Pull the rope slowly until you get stopped by the compression stroke 3.NOW press the decompression lever (you dont have to hold it, its going to hold and release by its selfe) 4.now pull hardly on the rope. the engine sould start imidiatly with a nice black cloud out of the exhauspipe :)
I run cheap oil for break-in, then Shell Rotella T6 (synthetic) in everything I own ... gas ⛽️ or ⛽️ DIESEL well over 25 yrs. (also safe for wet clutch) I will be watching what you do with that little mill
@toomanybears_ $25.00 average price for 1 gallon 15/40 not too terrible bad. It's the oil I use, so I buy it. What synthetic oil do you use, and what is the price?
If you set the decompression and pull the rope the decompression mechanism will probably reset at the right moment. Seen one with a similar setup on a larger engine that runs a lighted traffic work zone sign. Mounted helps to LOL. Looking forward to what you decide to do with it.
This is an extremely useful engine if you have used fryer oil and can make biodiesel. Or, you could equip it with a fryer oil heater and run it straight. Beat Big Oily. Make em paranoid.
Instead of grinding output shaft to fit, just buy a (chinese) metric pulley.. Also, if you run used oil, I'd suggest (besides obviously filtering really well) adding some ATF to the oil ( 1 quart to 5 gallons?), it will add some good additives to help lubricate injectors/ pump etc ;)
@@brandonmunson5747 I suppose.. if you did it with a file, while running, it would be like a mini lathe... lol still seems pretty hack to me, but what do I know? I live in the middle of nowhere and "farmer fixes" are all around.. I make a (good!) living fixing them, properly ;)
Dude, why on earth would you do that? The engine would be lucky to hold 1lt of oil. You can buy high quality Rotella diesel cheaply and it's ready for the engine.
I bought something similar. Baumr-AG, 7hp, rated at 3600 rpm. On a side note, small engines in Australia are nearly all rated in hp, whilst we use kW for car engines, and back to hp for prime movers. I only just realised, so most people here have some idea of both. The conversion is roughly 1hp = 3/4 kW.
Typically, Brits use whilst and Americans use while. That’s the main difference. When used as a conjunction or an adverb, while and whilst are interchangeable. And that is one thing I liked about Australia. It seam as if there where not as many Grammar Lords and Barons as the other English speaking countries I've lived and visited. Probably implicated myself in this regard, depending on the context in which it is read.
Dude, get some real estate and a worthy sized garage, or barn, as your ambition/ingenuity/creativity well deserve the space to operate in. Hats-off to your idea(s) and willingness to experiment and share all that with us. Eagerly awaiting some more. Be well.
When I was eight years old, I bolted my little Briggs & Stratton to a board and stood on the board. Used cooking oil will eventually ruin the pump and injector. I know a guy whose chicken-fueled diesel truck has been parked for years with a seized injection pump.
I've had one of these, black colored tank out of a chinese rammer. They're really good. Always mount engine on your work table its much safer that way. The way to start is to put the decompression lever down and pull. It goes off automatically and then in the next pull do the same. If you forget to put lever down you'll mess up the recoil pretty easily.
OH! I just recognized that what you were doing with that fuel line is just like what I was taught that I had to do if I was stupid and ran out of fuel in my truck! Yep, I'd have to crack maybe half of those in the 6-cyl. engine in order to get it flowing again, and yep, that meant watching for fuel to spurt out! Haha, it's not self-priming just like my 2001 truck engine wasn't! Oh my heck, this is more similar than I first suspected!
I found running some Walmart 2 stroke oil helps the injection system in these engines since the diesel nowadays isn't as good as it used to be. Like 111ML to 5L diesel and a little ctane booster they run so smooth and start much easier. Also a good idea to change the oil after the first hour run time to get anything out of the engine from the break in process.
Oh yeah, starting them especially for the first time is different. I just about broke my finger the first time where it kicked back so hard so you did better than I did lol. I also pulled the pull start handle off just like you did, seemed the knot wasn't big enough. Once you get the hang of it though, these are neat engines and run surprisingly well considering the price. Great vid!
Now that the string is recoiled back in, take that off and use a 13/16 or 7/8 or what ever metric socket that fits the large nut and use a cordless drill to turn the engine over without having to use a pull cord.
@@PhilipUnderwood-oy9tv it can get stuck on, yes. If it does get stuck on just shut it off and try again. Make it to where the socket is tight on the cordless, maybe wedge a piece of paper or something when you put the socket on the cordless. You definitely don't want the socket on the engine when running.
the way i have started these kind of diesel engines was to turn it over to the compression point, then press down the lever making sure its stuck in the down position, then you pull the cord to start with your hand off the decompression lever.
If you had used your brain and bolted the engine down onto a couple of 2x4 timbers.... that would have given you a steady platform to start and then run the engine safely. That first run of bubbles appearing at the "cracked" fuel line union at the injector was just the start of a series of pulls you should have continued with until it was a steady stream of diesel squirting every time you pulled the start rope. Once you had that was when you should have tightened the fuel line down onto the injector. That unsteady running was the sign there were still bubbles in the fuel system. Always check that junction where the OEM cord is "knotted" and stuffed into the cheap "rubber" starting handle... almost every one needs reknotting or the insertion of a steel pin through the knot to distribute the load onto the whole handle to ensure what happened to you... doesn't happen to you. After you run this engine for 15 minutes running up and down the rev range to "break it in"...drain the sump oil...and replace with new. You will be amazed as the trash from the manufacturing process flushes out. Then run it 30 minutes...drain and refill. Then run it 1 hour....drain and refill. Now you can be assured that it will last until the 25 hour "normal" oil change as recommended by the manufacturer...
wait change oil every 25hour sounds crazy BTW johnsmith, have you become a flat earther yet? If not I suggest viewing the 13 part series _what on earth happened_ in my about to learn how the earth is not a globe
Used oil or black diesel like folks call it is real popular for stuff like that so it should do fine. That or used cooking oil too. Don't worry about that dip stick alot of those cheap small motors use them because they are cheap and plentiful and you can fill to the cap threads like any other motor like that. I had a mower with a gas motor like that and was using the stick and one day I accidentally read the manual and it said fill to the threads.
You should’ve at least mounted it to a board so you could stand on the board to hold it in place while starting. It more than likely would’ve been a lot easier to start.
I see a lot of people over-complicating the start process. Pull to compression, push the lever down, LEAVE the lever and pull hard. Look forward to seeing the generator hooked up to it 👍
Looking forward to see what you do with this, especially how well it runs on used oil. If it's underpowered, I'd love to see you find a (tiny) cheap used turbo for it and a cheap eBay heat exchanger for an intercooler.
Not a good idea. Fun, but not a good idea. There is very little safety factor built into the power rating. Talking really crude metallurgy at work in the crank, rod, piston crown, etc. Ixnay on the urbotay.
@@growleym504 I don't disagree with you, but the benefit of buying a $200 Amazon diesel like this is that you can experiment with very little money on the line. If it does break, that's only a few cheap parts to replace, or even order a whole new one.
With the (very little) amount of boost these small engines can make, an intercooler wouldn't really help things besides adding a little more inlet volume. They do run fairly well on WMO if it's cut, IDI's in general are very tolerant of less-than-ideal fuels lol
My arm gave out, I removed the pull starter put a 21 mm socket on my Ryobi 18 volt impact driver, held compression button down until it got spinning and released button! Wa la it started right up. You can’t beat converting to an electric start
I wish China would make a decent 10 or 15 hp diesel to use in our sailboats without breaking the bank to buy it, like Perkins, YanMar, etc. I thought about installing Harbor Freight's big "Predator" or whatever it's called, but it's a gas engine and I'm a bit worried about a gas fume build-up and fire/explosion since it's not "marinized."
Just noticed that the fuel-filter is in-line backwards.! ;-) The fuel needs to be going into the outside of the paper-pleats., as then one can MUCH more easily see as the filter gets covered or clogged with dirt and / or debris...
Loving the photoshop application photos on the amazon for this horizontal shaft motor. You really can't beat a horizontal shaft in a push mower configuration.
whn starting it your supposed to pull until the compression stroke,press the decompression and then pull, not push it when you want to and hold it down and let go
Good video, no worries on the fall man... 😆 we all saw you fall, but we also saw you get back up and thats what counts. looking forward to the next video on this. You can make diesel from plastic as well.
Pulling the starter seems to require so much effort. I have 63cc 2t camping gen and that already is hard to pull the cord. Diesels require a lot of effort to overcome the pressure in the chamber with the injector.
I cannot understand why you did not both down the engine on a solid table before starting the new engine? Thank you very much for sharing be safe, and safety is number one
as always, i would be interested how long this chinese stuff really works. i mean, i have briggs&stratton engines that are 30-40years old and still run. we have the b&s from the time of its demise in the early 2000. and now we have loncin and this small diesel. do they run in 10-20 years? who knows?
I have to buy one now If you can start it anyone can. The compression release is automatic, you don't have to start it like one of those Packnisen black oil engines.
Hi. What is the maximum RPM of this diesel engine ? MORE info : Salvage the pulleys, from a drill press. They usually have 2 - each with 5 various sizes, from about 4 inch down to 1.5 inches or so. Install this, on engine shaft ( old guy)
Being a desiel, it shouldn't have the clogged carb issue that all the honda clone engines do. On those gas engines, letting them sit for a few weeks is long enough the carbs to get clogged.
You can not run them on old motor oil on less you preheat the oil with heat trace to 350° F up to the injector - That's how it's done with engines that run on heavy oil - if you run straight motor oil the cylinder can carbon lock from carbon build up - also you will have to pull the head and lap the valves in often and clean the carbon out the head and piston rings - even running them on preheated fuel oil we have to brake the engines down at times because of carbon build up -
Often industrial oil burning engines use heavy water for coolant - heavy water has a much higher boil point even when there not pressurized - They can run at 250 to 270° F with out a problem - those are generally slow speed engines they run from 50 to 500 RPMs - I have my grand fathers generator from around 1920 it's a GW oil engine - it uses transformer oil for coolant - it has to run at 260 to 270° - It still builds carbon on the valves if I burn crude or bunker C or F - F is like 150 gear oil - It's only has one cylinder and is easy to brake down so it's not a big deal I've done it many times - The advantage it it's efficient it generates about 22 KWs per gallon of fuel burned - at lower speeds and higher temperatures there is the temperature and time for a complete burn of fuel - The problem with slow speed single cylinder engines is voltage ripple - there generally used for pumping or charging battery's - Also they weigh a lot mine at 1 kw or 3.5 HP is around 2 tons - running on oil because of the oil temp it's de rated to 800 watts or 2.5 HP - In the deep South the humidity is an average of 60% - the moisture defuses the sun's UV light so it does not strike solar panel directly - at noon day solar panels only put out 20% of there rated out put if there no clouds and that's rare - also because it gets real hot lithium battery's don't work well as for charging them - Lead acid battery with a weaker acid of 1.220 or 1.190 will easily last 50 to 70 yrs of service when sized correctly and equalized correctly - so that's good enough for me but they weigh a lot - at 1.220 the acid freezes at minus 17° when charged & at 1.190 it's 0° - My grandfather was a early 1900 generator man and said most used .190 down here - with .190 acid there is a 40% reduction in capacity but a very long service life - I live in a rural area so after hurricanes or ice storms pole power can be out a very long long time - The air cooled diesels on AC generators that run at 3600 RPMs are lower compression and can only use high grade motive fuel - that engine is 23:1 compression so it should run just fine on the marine fuel used in the offshore oil field - the higher compression causes it to have a higher upper cylinder temperature - Marine fuel is equal to #0 diesel - it's generally 30% old motor oil often enough or 15% tar oil - like I said I haven't tried it out as of yet - I use my set when the power goes out during ice storms to charge, so I use #2 fuel - It seems to run at 8:1 efficiency at 800 watts 120v 2600 RPMs - that's twice as efficient as the 3600 RPM sets - they run at best 4:1 fuel efficient - inverter diesels are generally up to 7:1 -
"It's the exact same size as... a Harbor Freight... 212-style engine if you're familiar with that..." 1. Size in what: displacement? Overall dimensions? Are you _sure?_ 2. What about if we're _not_ familiar with that? It's a different size then?
You will likely need the 3600 RPM because this is the RPM most generator heads need to be turning to produce 60 hertz frequency turning them slower you will get a lower frequency and lower voltage also
Hose clamp a rubber hose to the output shaft and the other end directly to an alternator's input shaft attach to a plank or something . . . Worlds simplest generator!!
used oil, wven filtered will destroy the injection pump and mess up the rings. Not worth it. That thing will last forever if you just keep the oil changed and let ut warm up a little before you pit a load on it. Good luck and i love the idea man 👍
"It's probably a little overfull, so now I'm gonna put it down on the grass... and start this thing." 1. Why is putting that on the grass to start it supposedly dependent upon it being a little overfull of oil? 2. Why start it on the grass instead of clamping it to the table and trying to start it there?
