AMGA Single Pitch Instructor pick off / rescue / lead climber rescue 

Awesome! Definitely gonna try to make some more!

I have some in the works but had some life issues and have had to put a lot on hold. I am trying to get back to it.

Thx!

Awesome! I’m glad it helped!

Your welcome!

Thx! I try to put a lot of effort into these!

Awesome!

Thx!

Awesome!

Awesome! Glad you found it useful!

Thanks!

Thx!

You are correct! These skills are great for any climber and fairly easy to practice at the crag! Thanks for the comment!

Thank you!!!

Your welcome!

Duh, that is what ninjas do!

Well there actually is something you can do, I consider it one of the most complicated “self rescues” a climber might have to preform. So basically you would untie and leave your end as an “anchor” and then preform a solo lead. This way if all else fails you would be leading on the gear up to where you could ge to the leader. This is not ideal obviously and assumes the rescuing climber knows how to rope solo.

Ah! Good point! Yes it is 120cm.

Yes. The video was shot at the Nose!

You really have to climb at that point. But of course if it is overhung, likely you could lower.

@@howtoclimb thanks, I'm just imagining a kid scared clinging to the wall and refusing to let go. So free solo is the only option?

@@JoBianco well kinda. You wouldn’t want to fall. I suppose you could have a fixed line to go up next to the climb while maintaining the belay. In guiding we just don’t get kids into that situation until we are sure they can deal with it. This takes some patience for sure!

Correct, hopefully there would be a couple in between you and the climber once you got to them. The bigger question is if they fell on trad gear, would you trust it. If you don’t, this rescue becomes way more complicated!

What makes it a 2:1 over a 3:1?

The biner above redirects the force you apply to the rope. For simplification, assume no friction within the Grigri. So, the force of the strand to the Grigri is the same as from the Grigri . 2 strands are pulling you (are attached 2 you) with the force you applied to the rope . So 2:1 Your video , where you demonstrated assistance from above , is 3:1 since you have 3 loaded strands to your climber …

@@felixd1127 it is actually a 3:1. Richard Delaney explains it well in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-93AX2aPibZc.html

@@felixd1127 It's 3:1 because the grigri is acting as a pulley on the anchor (rescuer in this case). I'm more concerned with the incorrect instruction on the RAD technique being shown. No need for backup knots if you attach yourself to the ascender properly. And what he calls a prussik looks to be a Klemheist, which are different and not typically used in a rescue context. In all honesty, I wouldn't do anything he suggested for a pick off due to the issues above and suggestions to have the victim grab onto the tether are a no go for me.

The friction hitch is grabbing the rope on the other side and "pulling" on that rope.