solid video! once hauled my partner 80% of the 2nd pitch of Second Coming with 3:1 after a huge rain storm made the entire climb slicked out. These techniques work! thanks Karsten!
Nice and clear video! I appreciate the simplicity as a lot of these things can get over-complicated when a single approach can cover 90% of scenarios. One wrinkle that is worth mentioning though is where i usually find help becomes necessary: overhanging or traversing routes. In these cases it can be hard to get a loop down and you've got to rely on a pulley or get the partner actively involved with raising themself via progress capture. It'd be nice to see some examples of this style at say Sauratown or Ship rock (the Broach?) or somewhere similar. I'd be happy to be a victim/patient 😂 if you need one. Keep up the good work and hope you are doing well.
Very nice videos altogether! It just caught my eye that the second technique is actually a 3:1 + 2, give it a second thought. You're welcome. If we're concerned about the follower handling the locking mechanism of the biner being lowered to them, we can just use a non-locking one. The follower can not fall a single inch if it uclips since there is never any slack on the rope they are tied in.
When trad climbing you often do not bring a gri gri. Partly because there's two ropes in the system. But I guess that this works in guide mode too, albeit somewhat harder.
I do usually bring a grigri. But I also mostly climb on single ropes no matter what the style of protection. Sure the grigri is a bit heavier, but it provides so much from an applications standpoint that I find it hard to leave behind. In fact I will sometimes leave my plate device behind instead!
Awesome video! I'm surprised that you pull up on your 3 to 1 system as opposed to making it a 4 to 1 and pulling down. But perhaps that system is too cumbersome. Note to self: prussik = 5mm cord, cut to 3'7''' or 3'8'''
The problem with adding more mechanical advantage to this system is two fold. 1. Just redirecting the brake strand only increases friction and doesn’t add any mechanical advantage. So much friction (even with a pulley) it is pretty hard to pull down. 2. Likely some sort of “Spanish Burton” would be best meaning having a redirect on the brake strand to pull down. This would make a complex 5:1. This is a solution but the amount of pulls and resets it takes becomes arduous due to the collapsing nature of this system. These are the things I am always trying to figure out though! Wish we could reply with a video to explain better! Thanks for the comment.
