How Do You Swap Lead Climbers

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This video shows how to swap multipitch belayers successfully in two different scenarios. One scenario involves lead climbing swap between partners, the other involves block lead climbing (block leading). This is applicable both in sport leading and trad leading in rock climbing.
#rockclimbing #climbing #multipitch

Опубликовано:

8 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 14

@isaack6994 2 года назад

I think second should clove in so you just take your Grigri off the anchor and attach it to your harness. That eliminates at least four steps from your system and reduces the likelihood of dropped gear. That same changeover could've been done in fifteen seconds, although I don't mind a longer changeover (a minute or so) to take a breath, drink/snack, talk beta, and be stoked. Good stuff though, I enjoy the content!

@cdawgsends 2 года назад

Love these videos! Is that Rumors?? I love Allenbrook :) Once I placed my entire double rack there to practice placements. I love the video on how to be an AMGA guide, and would love to see another, more in depth video on this process!

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

Thanks, Will likely make another AMGA video during/after my rock guide course in October that I've been training hard for. The route at the beginning was some mixture of Happy Hooker and Block Direct... either was pretty hard.

@russelldevaney7001 2 года назад

Here's the rack, what are you waiting for? Bridwell on the first Nose speed ascent. There will always be a danger of a high factor fall until the leader places the second or third piece of protection after leaving the belay, more so than on the first pitch. The tradeoff is that the leader isn't looking at a groundfall. This is lead climbing, you can make it safer but you can't make it safe. You want maximum safety, stick to top roping (which of course had its own set of hazards). Maybe better to stay at home and watch climbing on tv.

@Rufus1250 2 года назад

5:00 or you could just continue belaying him from the anchor grigri and save some more time!

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

Interesting, I haven't seen that technique unless done with a munter.

@vlaaady Месяц назад

What if the leader falls almost right away from the first clip? It will be almost factor 2 fall, it can pull your gri gri to the first quick draw, after which the gri gri can malfunction. The leader falls all the way...Shouldn't you prevent this by tying off a catastrophe knot until the leader clips a second draw or not using gri gri?

@FlatOutFE 2 года назад

Are you concerned about clipping only one piece when belaying the leader off the pitch anchor? That's a near fall factor 2 scenario that induces a shock load on the anchor if that piece fails. Thoughts?

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

It's really case by case... on the climb we were on, a fall factor 2 was impossible because the climber would just hit the ledge. I've found that to be the case with many climbs (fall factor 2 impossible). Now if it is possible, you should consider a solution like this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Y61azOK-CVY.html

@DavideFossati 2 года назад

Very nice and efficient! How could I get "untangled" if I positioned the rope on the wrong side by mistake before belaying, and the climber has already begun to climb?

@summitseekersexperience 2 года назад

ONce the climber is climbing you've basically locked yourself in so you want to be real careful to get things set right before you start. It's really asking for trouble to start trying to change set-ups once the climber is climbing... basically you can make a bad problem worse. I've always taken the rule of thumb to have the gri gri arranged where rope is coming up the right side into the device and this has yielded good results.