Amiga Apollo 1260 Restoration and Upgrade

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In this episode of Amiga Retro Adventures you will see the restoration and upgrade of an Apollo 1260 68060 based accelerator card for the AMIGA 1200 computer. Though I have done these modifications in the past every project always has new challenges and can yield unpredictable results.

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26 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 71

@nevilovermann797 6 лет назад

Amazing video! I've just bought one of these and I'm excited to see how much performance I can get out of it. There are many reports about instabilities with the Apollo-cards. How has this been working for you since upgrading? boots every time? crashes etc.?

@amigaretro4765 6 лет назад

My Apollo 060 runs great at 50 MHz. I managed to get to run at 80MHz for awhile but it didn't run stable until it warmed up a bit. Now it will only work at 50 MHz for some reason but like I said it runs great and with no issues at all so I am not too concerned. It's a big boost over an 030 and on the FPU side of things it's much faster than an 040.

@amigaretro4765 4 года назад

Thanks for watching. I had to revert back to 50 MHz since one day it decided not to boot (black screen). It works fine at this speed and is stable. Not sure why it decided not to run at faster clock speeds after this video was made but it still works and that is always a plus :)

@kitkatv3 3 года назад

Thank you so much for your video. Freeze framing it found a surface mount resistor on my board needed to be swapped over to use higher than 50mhz crystals. They are right next to that pesky capacitor you very nicely replaced. My board had GND and CLKEN connected via a 10ohm resistor. No matter what crystal I used and the clock jumper position I got nowhere. Your board has the 10ohm resistor between CLK and CLKEN. I quickly swapped over and 80Mhz crystal works fine.

@amigaretro4765 3 года назад

I am glad my video was of help.From what I have read, having the surface mount resistor switched from the Factory Default position to the position my board has, it relaxes the Memory timing enough to allow higher CPU clock frequencies. Also, when overclocking, the memory module brand, type and speed can affect this ability.

@TheSudsy 3 года назад

Tip#1 get some "helping Hands". #2 tweezers with some grippy jaws. #3 use more flux. But excellent video (on many levels, like what not to do, perserverance, and amazing accelerator in the end). :)

@amigaretro4765 3 года назад

Thanks. I have all of these now and I am somewhat better :)

@jamie405 4 года назад

G'day. Nice video... Just in terms of the desoldering of the cap. I normally just use an iron and work it off pad by pad. Also, when soldering SMD, remove solder from both pads and then apply solder blob on a single side, place the cap, and then apply solder to the other side, that way your will get it flat. It will also remove the probably mixing the two different types of solder being used at the same time. These boards were probably originally manufactured using Pb free, where as you are probably using Pb'd (Mixing the two types will help in no way). Having said that, I know everyone has different methods, so whatever works for you. Flux and wick (to an extent) are your friend :) Great video.

@davidpippin3460 4 года назад

I used to have one of these, made my 1200 FLY!

@piyushkhengar Год назад

Omg, I used to have one of these in my towerised A1200!

@amigaretro4765 Год назад

I have two, not sure why 😆 They overclock well with a rev 6 68060. Unfortunately these CPUs are a fortune on e-Bay.

@piyushkhengar Год назад

@@amigaretro4765 maybe you're the guy that bought mine off me on eBay all those years ago!

@johandenhertog6878 4 года назад

Great that you restore and upgrade the Blizzard 1260. Waiting for the ACA1260 have now a ACA1233n-55 and want a Blizzard 1230 IV.

@amigaretro4765 4 года назад

Thanks. I too am waiting for the ACA 1260 release. I also own the two other CPU accelerators you have. Nice cards indeed.

@johandenhertog6878 4 года назад

The ACA1233n-55 and the Blizzard 1230 IV are the best 68030 cards to have.

@garyhart6421 2 года назад

Looks very similar to my Apollo 040 (that had a little side blowing fan). Removed the battery, just in case. Fan replaced with a large Heat Sink (later added fan). Keyboard swapped for an PC-Key 1200 & XT keyboard

@amigaretro4765 2 года назад

I have two of these cards, with an 060 and updated ROM. One I can't overclock for some reason beyond 50 MHz, the other I can to 80 MHZ stable.

@glow_n_show8968 Год назад

Does both Apollo card same Mach chips?

@johandenhertog6878 4 года назад

Must buy a Blizzard 1260 for my third A1200 project. My second A1200 have a Blizzard 1230 IV + 50MHz FPU and 128MB 50ns. My First A1200 is waiting for the ACA1260. My A500 have a ACA1233n-55 on the ACA500Plus V1. Great to see a Apollo 1260 running a Rev6 with 66MHz.

@amigaretro4765 4 года назад

The Phase5 Blizzard 1260 is a nice card. Unfortunately they are rare on eBay and because of that they can fetch a pretty high price. But you have the right idea, Speed, Speed and more Speed :)

@johandenhertog6878 4 года назад

For AGA Demos beyond 1999 a 68030 is not enough. Great to 1998 but a 68060 have speed, speed and more speed. Waiting for the new ACA1260 card from Jens. And woud buy a nice Blizzard 1260 for my A1200 GHOST case from A1200NET. Must have a better Indivision AGA than the old MK2CR. Maybe the coming Indivision AGA MK3 would be nice for Demos.

@eightbit1975 4 года назад

I feel your pain when working with SMD caps. Sometimes things work out, sometimes it is a PITA. But, at least you didn't lift a pad! As for the battery, I would have opted for a battery holder instead. Using that battery means one day when it dies you will have to desolder it yet again to get a new one in there. With a holder you never have to worry about that ;)

@amigaretro4765 4 года назад

True, though I am using a rechargeable lithium battery, I would have preferred installing a button cell with holder (and diode). Unfortunately I did not have the necessary hardware at the time of this video. Thanks for reminding me to order the required parts :)

@ClassicTrialsChannel 2 года назад

The audio/voice sounds like 70s-80s documenterys . a carm voice

@weav2k4 4 года назад

just a comment that would think that if you removed a rechargeable nicad with a lithium you should have a diode to prevent charging the lithium batt.. appreciate the video and apologize if missed that you took that into consideration.

@amigaretro4765 4 года назад

Doug, Thanks for watching my Video. The battery in question is a rechargeable VL2020 3V Lithium Ion, thus a diode is not required. When using regular Coin Cells, I try to use Schottky Diodes when possible, such as the one in my Amiga 2000, since they have a lower voltage drop compared to regular Silicon Diodes. This will give you around an extra 0.3 volts to the battery backed up clock I.C. This is an easy way to squeeze out a few more months of operation :)

@weav2k4 4 года назад

@@amigaretro4765 Thanks for the clarification. Just didn't want to see bad things happen to that vintage tech! Be safe!

@amigaretro4765 4 года назад

Doug, No Worries. I appreciate your attention to detail. And yes, I definitely would not want to vaporize a working part of Amiga History :)

@ernestone7357 4 года назад

You're a natural antitalent for soldering but I admire your enthusiasm. I have one tip, you need to use more flux. Everything is getting better with flux.

@amigaretro4765 4 года назад

That was not one of my best of attempts, I promise ;) I use various types of Flux, such as Chipquick and the Syringe style. What brands do you recommend?

@Wallygjs 3 года назад

@@amigaretro4765 I know this was years ago, but I agree with @Ernest One if you wick the pads so they are nice and clean, then add a very small amount of solder, then use some Amtech NCC-558-ASM which is quite soft jelly like flux, the beauty of that is you can plonk the cap on top of the unheated flux and the stickiness will hold it in place. Then when you bring in the iron the flux melts and turns to a liquid and the capillary action will suck the cap into place without you needing to touch it. When you do it this way it actually become a very easy task. With regards to removing the SMD caps, I have also found if you put a good coating of the Amtech around both the pad areas of an SMD cap you want to remove and then apply the hot air gun it seems to assist sending the heat all around the cap and you can remove them more easily than just using heat alone. It is quite expensive flux but saves you loads of time. I picked this technique and the flux used from Branchus Creations You tube channel he has loads of helpful videos on doing this kind of work and I have found his methods work for me. Link to a good example video Branchus did ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SjgWo7mj8-w.html

@amigaretro4765 3 года назад

@@Wallygjs Thanks for these excellent tips. I will definitely try to put them to practice in the future.

@SuperVstech 5 лет назад

Looking at the solder joints on the cpu socket, I see one pin is lightly lead oxidized, and several with flux residue on it. I would wash the board, reflow the solder to the pins, and overall clean up all the chip joints.

@amigaretro4765 5 лет назад

Thanks for the suggestion. I already cleaned the residual flux, and re-flowed some of the pins. I may do a complete socket replacement in the future, since I bought a new socket just for that purpose. I also replaced the Power Module with a new board from eBay a few months ago.

@stefaancodde6578 5 лет назад

Wrong, you should add flux to unsoldering a IC and the ram should be removed from the first place so before removing the battery.

@retrotech2020 5 лет назад

I did this with 3 Apollos many moons ago but stuck little fans on them. They ran stable at 80mhz. I also added the 2nd slim slot on one of them to give 64MB.

@amigaretro4765 5 лет назад

I have done this to Two. One overclocked easily to 80 MHz and already had the extra SIMM socket but unfortunately, the one in this video, can only be clocked at 50 Mhz (this occurred a few days after the video was made). I am not sure what happened but it still works and runs cool at 50 MHz thanks to the Revision 6 68060.

@sergiuszszczepankiewicz2017 3 года назад

oh man :) That was a not nice soldering. I noticed that with the first one you had you tantalum mounted with wrong polarity - on tantalum the marking is on the positive side. On electrolytic on negative (in general - can be different probably - depending on the particular vendor). When you solder SMD by hand: put a small amount (small) of solder on only one pad. Solder the capacitor on the one pad while locating it with tweezers. Then comfortably add solder to second pad. Finally consider the important info: tantalum when fails will short circuit and probably burn / explode a bit. Electrolytic when fails, opens the circuit. Much safer fail.

@amigaretro4765 3 года назад

Thanks. This was my first attempt and have learned many of the tips you have suggested by watching other video's. Though I have improved in regards to SMD de-soldering/soldering, I still prefer Through-hole components :)

@sergiuszszczepankiewicz2017 3 года назад

@@amigaretro4765 If that was your first then it was ok :) I would not choose to learn on blizzard but "who will stop you when you are rich" :D I highly recommend Hakko/JBC tips technology - much better temperature control (see T12 or T15 tips)

@blekihun 5 лет назад

Hi! Where did you buy the rev6?

@amigaretro4765 5 лет назад

I bought the revision 6 68060 on eBay. Sometimes they are available separately or as a kit that includes the CPU, Heat sink and an Oscillator.

@haiderwb9844 3 года назад

Where to get the 47uF 16v, like your video

@amigaretro4765 3 года назад

I believe on eBay, it was part of a parts kit. All SMD stuff. They can also be found on Digi-key or Mouser. Link: www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/tantalum-capacitors/59?s=N4IgTCBcDaICwHYCuAzABARgGwDc0GcBbAEzRAF0BfIA

@snooks5607 5 лет назад

oh no. ..well, still appreciate that you shared this, but please, practice with already trashed pcbs. #1 rule especially with surface mount parts is to NOT use any physical force (pads for through hole parts are not as fragile as pulling force is directed towards the board rather than away from it). Secondly, while soldering iron is a precision instrument applied for few seconds at a time directly to the metal to be soldered (not to solder itself).. hot air is not the same thing. Other parts will be receiving heat and sudden heat shock can cause damage. It's much better to let it heat up gradually, doing it in seconds is worse than heating it for minutes, it's all about the degrees. Infrared temperature meter might help understand what's safe. And if you have the hot air set to high heat do not bring it closer than 5cm to the board. especially with older PCBs you might just delaminate the substrate and that is not something that can be fixed by couple of jumper wires. Also to make it easier please apply new solder and flux to the solder joints, it will make the old solder want to liquify faster. Once the component is ready to go it just falls off, do not force it or you'll lift a pad and in worst case scenario the board is ruined. It is really just about getting familiar with the process, like said, practice with useless boards.

@snooks5607 5 лет назад

Previous comment was left at 15:00 mark, now at 23:00 wanted to comment on another thing. There's of course hundreds of videos about soldering practices, but as you discovered, tape is too impresise for SMD components. what I do after cleaning old solder is to add solder to one pad then attach component to just that pad so that it stays still while rest of it is getting soldered. As with anything, it's about practice practice practice.

@amigaretro4765 5 лет назад

Firstly, thanks for watching my Videos. My SMD experience is relatively new (Hot Air and Soldering/De-soldering techniques). I am still in the learning process. Around sensitive components or cluttered PCBs, I use Kapton Tape and Tinfoil to shield the components from excess heat. PCB pre-heater beds are nice and can achieve professional results but they more suited for small PCBs and can cost a lot of money. I have seen a few You Tube videos on alternate methods, those I will try on old PC motherboards and the like. Using a soldering iron, it is normal practice for me to add fresh flux, rosin core solder or both, to old joints to assist in the de-soldering process. Thanks for your tips. I will continue to improve my skills.

@snooks5607 5 лет назад

hey, I did watch few your newer ones, good stuff, keep it going. just realized rereading what I wrote that it might've sounded a bit patronizing, didn't quite mean it like that :) it's just a pet peeve (seen many well-meaning people mess up their prized possessions). foil might be ok to deflect hot air for short period of time but once it heats up it'll work as a heating pad, depending on how it's applied it might make parts get more heat rather than less.

@snooks5607 5 лет назад

IMO more important than fancy tools is figuring out what is happening to the board, the part, the iron etc. like if there's a stubborn part that don't seem to come off it could be that it's attached to the ground plane that sucks up all the heat faster than the small thermal mass or contact point of the iron's tip can provide and the solder never melts. that's when you get bigger/cleaner tip (or check that the soldering station is actually performant and responsive enough for the task at hand. and that it's actually temperature controlled rather those cheap ones where you only adjust watts).

@amigaretro4765 5 лет назад

Snooks, no worries. I am glad that you thought my videos are worthy of comment, plus I am always open to new tips and suggestions.

@MaverickM1 4 года назад

Why without flux? Flux helps to spread heat evenly..

@amigaretro4765 4 года назад

I do use flux but I have been told to use more, much more :)

@AmstradExin 4 года назад

I installed the second ram-slot as soon as I got my own card years ago...

@amigaretro4765 4 года назад

Nice. I have yet to do this.

@mark12358 5 лет назад

perhaps a little clumsy first attempt, better the second one...yup! :)

@user-tg6yo7io2y 4 года назад

Эх, кулёма... 😀

@Yukatoshi 4 года назад

Bet this wasn't cheap! :D

@amigaretro4765 4 года назад

Like many Amiga computer models and original accessories, they are definitely going up in value on eBay and other sites. Retro computers, not so retro prices :)

@bobingabout 3 года назад

27:39 That's not how Lithium cells work... they're not rechargeable! Most people install a diode to make sure they can't charge. Most people also use a button cell socket, so they can replace the cell, due to them not being rechargeable.

@amigaretro4765 3 года назад

Thanks for watching my Video, I am using the Panasonic VL-2020 Coin Battery, which is a 3V Rechargeable Lithium Battery, so a diode is not needed. I also use the VL-2020 with my A500 plus. They are good replacements for the Leaky Ni-CAD batteries of the era. In contrast, as you have mentioned, my A2000 uses a standard CR-2032 3V Coin Cell, of which I added a Schottky diode in series with it, to prevent charging of the Coin Cell when the A2000 is powered on. Schottky Diodes are ideal for this type of use since they have a lower forward voltage drop than regular diodes, allowing more voltage from the Coin Cell can be passed through to the Real time Clock. Panasonic VL-2020: www.amazon.com/Panasonic-VL2020-Rechargeable-Battery-Horizontal/dp/B00D4522AY

@bobingabout 3 года назад

@@amigaretro4765 Aha! Fair enough.

@amigaretro4765 3 года назад

@@bobingabout No worries, I should have mentioned this in my Video.